Chickens are a pet that give a return on your investment. Not just through a rewarding emotional bond that is experienced between pet and owner (though certainly that too), but through tangible goods: delicious, nutritious, and gorgeous eggs. The nutritional makeup of an egg alone is amazing, but you can also analyze your chickens’ eggs to get a glimpse into their overall health. What do your hens’ eggs say about their health? From laying frequency, egg size, shape, color, and texture — here’s what your daily gathering can tell you about your flock.
Nutritional value of eggs
Healthy hens lay healthy eggs, and it’s hard to beat their nutritional value. On average, one chicken egg contains just 75 calories, but 5 grams of protein. Along with milk, eggs hold the “gold standard” for biological protein value. Eggs also contain vitamins and minerals essential to human health. And they’re versatile too — there are so many different ways to enjoy eggs, either on their own or as part of a recipe. When your hens are laying healthy looking eggs on the regular, it means they’re receiving proper nutrition and feel safe in the nesting area of their chicken coop.
When you aren’t collecting these nutritional offerings as often as usual, or if your hens’ eggs begin to look or feel unusual, there may be underlying issues at play. From illness to stress, here are some ways your flock’s eggs can hint at a health concern.
Change in egg laying frequency
How often do hens lay eggs? The answer is a bit more complex than the common notion of “an egg a day,” and many factors are taken into account when determining what is normal egg production for a hen. Breed, age, health, and time of year all affect how many eggs chickens lay.
Among the many different chicken breeds that are considered good layers (those that can lay upwards of 300 eggs per year), some well known egg producers include:
Ornamental and smaller chicken breeds lay less frequently, with some only laying a few eggs each month.
Hens that are not feeling well, or are malnourished will lay less frequently. Flock discord, inadequate nutrition, and overcrowding are a handful of stressors that can take a toll on egg production. Make sure your hens have access to clean water and quality layer pellets at all times to ensure they’re getting the calories and nourishment they need. Adding scratch grains, chicken treats, and healthy kitchen scraps or safe foods from the garden to their diet will also give hens a nutritional boost.
Hens will inevitably lay less, or stop laying eggs altogether in the winter. A hen’s ovulation cycle is based on daylight hours, so once the days shorten, you can expect egg production to slow down. This is a hen’s natural reaction to the changing seasons as they prepare to reallocate energy to keep warm instead of laying eggs. Your hens will resume a normal laying schedule closer to spring, as days grow longer.
Molting season
Another annual reason for a decrease in egg production is a process called “molting.” Molting is the process of shedding old feathers and regrowing new ones to replace them. This process also occurs in preparation for winter – so as the days grow shorter, your hens will begin to lose their dingy feathers in favor of new, more dense feathers to keep them warm. The result is a beautiful, vibrant new outfit of feathers for your hens – but less eggs for you to gather. Molting takes a lot of energy, so expect your chickens to be on “lay-cation” for 8-16 weeks. Helping your hens through their molt will better prepare your flock for their annual feather-renewal.
Eggs of a different color
Did you know that chickens lay eggs in several different colors? You’ve probably seen white and brown eggs, but some chickens can lay eggs in shades of green, blue, and even pink. So, what causes such a variety of colors?
Genetics determine what color eggs a hen will lay. Some breeds of chickens have a standard color you can expect from them. For example, you can count on Leghorns to lay white eggs, Orpingtons lay brown eggs, and Ameraucanas lay blue eggs. But different shades such as olive are the result of a hybrid hen – a hen bred from a combination of blue and brown egg genes. For example, if you bred an Orpington (brown egg genetics) rooster with an Ameraucana (blue egg genetics) hen, the result would be an “olive egger” hen that would lay green eggs. Egg color should be consistent with the hen laying them, and different colored eggs are not a cause for concern unless a hen suddenly starts laying a different shade from what is normal for them.
All eggs begin with a white shell, but the hen laying the egg adds a pigment to them as they make their way to be laid. This pigment only colors the shell, and does not penetrate the membrane.
Pro tip: you can get an idea of the color eggs a hen lays by looking at their earlobes. Hens with white earlobes will lay white eggs, and hens with red earlobes will lay brown eggs. This technique is not as accurate for pigmented eggs (blue, green or pink), as hybrid-chickens will have a variety of colors to their earlobes. Still, it’s fun to try this prediction-test with your flock.
Double yolks
In a rare, but completely normal phenomenon, chickens can lay eggs with two yolks inside. If fertilized and incubated or kept under a broody hen, double-yolked eggs can hatch twin chicks – but it’s more common for only one embryo to fully develop.
If you crack one of your chickens’ eggs and start seeing double, it’s the result of the hen releasing two yolks at the same time during ovulation — which then become encapsulated within one shell. It’s more common for newly-matured hens to lay double-yolked eggs, as their bodies are adjusting to ovulation. Laying eggs with two yolks can also be genetic, and hens may continue to do so for the duration of their egg-laying career.
Thin shell, or no shell at all
Have you ever collected eggs, only to find yourself flabbergasted by a squishy egg? Soft-shelled eggs feel like partially filled water balloons and can be very disconcerting to find in the nesting box. These strange, spongy eggs are actually laid without the presence of the shell; only the membrane. This most often occurs with high-producing hens, when their bodies simply cannot keep up with yolk production. Oftentimes they will lay a fully-formed egg, then lay a shell-less egg a few hours later.
The other most common reason for eggs having thin or missing shells is inadequate calcium in their diet. Warning signs leading up to shell-less eggs can be thinner shells, so take note if your hens’ eggs are suddenly much easier to crack, or if you find broken eggs in the nesting box. A lot of calcium is required to “fully clothe” a yolk, so be sure to feed quality layer pellets that contain added calcium. If you notice thinner shells or “naked” eggs, supplement your hens’ feed with crushed oyster shells or other chicken calcium supplements. You can also save egg shells after cracking them to crush or grind up and sprinkle on top of your hens’ feed. Be sure not to offer shells that have not been broken down into smaller pieces, as chickens can acquire a taste for eggs and will actually eat them straight out of the nesting box.
Boost your hens’ shell-producing ability with chicken supplements to ensure they have all of the vitamins and minerals they need. As an added bonus, supplements such as omega-3 fed to your chickens pass through to their eggs– and then to you when you eat them.
Looks can be deceiving
Sometimes an egg might look a little off, but it may be hard to place why. These common sights are usually no cause for concern unless they become the new normal.
Why is there blood on my chicken’s egg?
While it may look concerning, blood smears on an eggshell usually indicate that it came from a new layer (pullet). This issue should resolve on its own after the first few weeks of laying.
Why are my hen’s eggs long and skinny?
Also more common in pullets just starting to lay, eggs can sometimes take on an awkward shape or appearance. Young hens will often start laying smaller, elongated eggs that look almost pointed. If elongated eggs appear suddenly and regularly in mature hens, notify your veterinarian, as this could indicate illness.
Why do my chickens’ eggs have bumps, divots or ridges?
The texture of eggs is an excellent sign of potential nutritional deficiencies or stress in your flock. Any hens’ consistently laying eggs that do not have a round, smooth shell, are experiencing either stress or malnutrition. Make sure your chickens’ feed has adequate levels of protein, calcium, and vitamins and minerals. Overcrowding is often a source of stress for chickens, so give them plenty of room in a walk in chicken run or an area of chicken fencing during the day, and adequate space in their chicken coop at night.
Why is there a chalky film on my hens’ eggs?
An abundance of calcium in a flock’s diet can cause eggs to be laid with a chalky or waxy appearance. Brown eggs may take on a pink hue from this excess calcium, or you may see flecks of white on darker colored eggs. To correct this, scale back on calcium supplements until the eggs take on a normal appearance once again. If the film persists but only with one or two hens, it’s more likely that you have a couple of hens that produce a thicker bloom (cuticle) layer than others. In this case, the waxy film is perfectly normal, and even beneficial.
Even though they may not look as appealing as “normal” eggs, most unusual looking eggs are safe to eat. Most of the time deformities lie within the shell only, with the inside of the egg remaining unaffected. Any eggs that have sustained damage to their shell should be discarded, as bacteria will have had the chance to enter through the compromised shell.
Chicken checks
Check-in with your hens by doing regular chicken health checks to make sure everyone is in tip-top shape. Look for any new or unusual signs or symptoms in your chickens during this health check. It’s also a good idea to have an extra Eglu Go Chicken Coop setup for quarantining sick or new flock members.
Unusual eggs can sometimes point to illness. If you notice your chickens having symptoms accompanying irregular egg laying, or the prolonged presence of abnormal-looking eggs, it’s time to contact your veterinarian.
Omlet and your hens’ health
Eggs can tell you a lot about your hens’ health — but so can their appearance and activity level. That’s why we’ve made it easier and more enjoyable than ever to keep your flock fit and healthy. Our extra large chicken coops give everyone in your flock plenty of space to lay and roost, and our walk in chicken runs can be expanded to any dimension of your choosing — giving you plenty of space to spend time with them. Round out your setup with a customizable PoleTree Chicken Perch, and your hens will have the ideal space to keep them healthy and happy for years to come. With our ingeniously designed products, you’ll always know what your flock is up to, and that every part of their home has been carefully crafted for their health and happiness.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Thanksgiving is a holiday for reflection, appreciation, celebration – and food! Millions of homes will set out a spread for their families to partake of on Thanksgiving Day. In fact, Americans typically consume around 3,000 calories in their one Thanksgiving meal!
And speaking of calories, did you know your chickens need more during the colder months? Your chickens will consume extra calories not just in one holiday-meal sitting, but all season long! A combination of molting cycles, cold weather, and less daylight drives chickens to eat more during the day in preparation for long, chilly nights. Sharing some pantry staples with your flock will give them the extra support they need this season.
Sharing is at the heart of Thanksgiving, and with extensive human-menus, you’re sure to find foods to create a feast for your flock as well! Several holiday food staples can be safely offered to your chickens for a Thanksgiving meal of their own. Serve it up in a creative way, and your chickens will officially be part of the holiday festivities!
Special winter-weather feeding considerations
As the days grow shorter, your chickens will start their annual molting cycle. They’ll shed their drab summer-worn feathers and don new, more dense feathers that will act as a winter coat. This stunning change requires lots of energy – so even though your hens won’t be laying eggs while they molt, they will need the extra calories to help grow new feathers and support their metabolisms.
The cold weather will also ramp-up your chickens’ appetites. Extra food means extra energy expenditure to digest, which warms up their bodies. So what are some of the best treats to give chickens in the winter? Some ideas include:
- Warm oatmeal
- Leftover pumpkins (whole or pureed)
- Carbohydrates such as cooked pasta or sweet potatoes
- Suet blocks (DIY or store bought in the wild bird section)
Consider giving your chickens supplements to support their immune systems and energy in addition to warm, energizing treats. You can also offer alfalfa hay in your chickens’ run as a supplement to their regular diet. Alfalfa hay has many nutritional benefits, and your chickens will spend hours scratching and pecking through the fiber and protein-rich stems and leaves.
Turkey-day treats for chickens
With so many delectable dishes on the menu for Thanksgiving, the possibilities to share with your feathered-family members are many! When preparing your holiday meal, set aside some trimmings or extra ingredients to feed to your chickens. Some holiday-meal ingredients to share with your chickens include:
- Cranberries (dried or fresh)
- Raisins
- Celery, carrots, squash, or pumpkin
- Sweet potatoes and yams
- Nuts (shelled) and seeds
You can also make suet cakes for your chickens as a special holiday treat. Many recipes can be found online, and you can customize your creations in molds to shape them! Suet is lard or tallow-based with various mix-ins such as nuts, seeds, whole grains, and dried, unsweetened fruit.
As with all treats, these should be fed in moderation, and should not be a replacement for their regular diet of laying pellets and scratch grains!
Fit for your table, but not for your chickens
While many Thanksgiving meal components are fine to feed your chickens, there are some foods that are important to avoid giving to your flock. These include:
- Chocolate
- Raw onions or garlic (or large amounts of either cooked)
- Raw potatoes or peels (raw sweet potatoes are fine)
- Citrus fruits
- Uncooked beans or rice
- Anything high in salt or fat
As tempting as it may be to give your chickens a slice of pie or leftover rolls, it’s much better to offer nutritional alternatives like suet cakes or vegetables. Sugary or fatty foods can cause digestive upset in hens, which is particularly detrimental when weather conditions are less than favorable!
Presentation matters
Chickens are very visual animals. They constantly scan their surroundings for threats, look for tiny movements from insects they’re seeking, and are known to enjoy bright, bold colors. Putting their Thanksgiving treats in a Caddi chicken treat holder is a great way to catch their attention through presentation. As an added plus, you can bring the Caddi chicken treat holder with you to the kitchen during meal-prep and place any chicken-safe goodies inside for safe keeping. Once the chicken treat holder is full, hang it in your hen’s run and watch their gratitude radiate!
You can also place a chicken peck toy in their run with either fresh corn, seeds, and shelled nuts, or with their usual scratch grains for added enrichment. Your chickens will be extra thankful when you combine food with visual appeal!
Thankful for our flocks
We’re thankful for our chickens, and they show their gratitude in the only way they know how – in providing delicious eggs! Some hens have personalities that rival a dog’s in affection or loyalty, while others are content to regard their owners from a distance. But no matter what their personalities are, chickens are always thankful to be together with their flock – which includes you!
By giving them quality chicken coops, runs, and accessories, you can ensure your hens are getting everything they need to be healthy, safe, and happy not just this holiday season, but all year long. And don’t forget to thank them for those eggs you’ll be cracking into your Thanksgiving dishes!
This entry was posted in Chickens
You’ve seen to your hens’ every need for months. Their coop is clean, they’re well fed (treats included!), entertained, and have finally shed their adolescent feathers and donned laying-age hen skirts. At last, your efforts are finally rewarded in a clutch of farm fresh eggs.
Your hands, basket, or apron (if you’re feeling fancy) are now full of those smooth cackleberries, and ready to go…where? You could keep them in store-bought containers, custom ordered cartons, or displayed on a countertop egg skelter. But where is the best place to keep them after that? Should you wash them? Leave them be?
From backyard flocks to large commercial operations, all chicken-keepers need to research the best methods for keeping fresh eggs, well, fresh!
Methods and misconceptions
Here are some of the most common methods of keeping freshly-laid eggs:
- Unwashed, on the countertop
- Washed, then refrigerated
- Sealed for long-term storage in an air-tight container at room temperature
There are some common misconceptions regarding these methods and the freshness they are able to sustain. You might be thinking:
Who wouldn’t wash their eggs?! I love my chickens, but I don’t love their mess!
When I buy eggs at the store, they’re refrigerated – surely that’s the best method?
I don’t want to find a partially-formed chick when I crack a room-temperature egg!
Fortunately, there are easy (and even scientific!) answers that can put your mind at ease and help you decide where to keep those nutrient-packed eggs!
Eggs on display
Let’s start with the most common method for small-batch chicken egg gatherers:
Fresh, unwashed eggs kept on the countertop at room temperature.
It’s a common fear that keeping eggs at room temperature will allow a fertilized egg to continue developing into a chick. However, fertilized chicken eggs need to be kept around 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit, maintain a humidity level of 65-70%, and be turned several times a day for 21 days in order to develop! Unless your countertop meets these requirements (and therefore be the largest incubator in your state!), fertilized eggs will not develop unless they remain under a broody hen, or placed promptly in an egg incubator.
The importance of unwashed eggs being kept at room temperature however, cannot be understated. Why is this so important? When eggs are laid by a hen, they are bathed in a protective barrier of the hen’s natural flora, called the “bloom.” This good-bacteria keeps the embryo safe from external bad-bacteria while it develops. Eggs also have semipermeable shells, which allows nutrients in and out of the membrane to nourish a growing chick. If the bloom is removed by washing, good and bad bacteria are able to move freely into the egg.
So what does this mean for egg-keepers? Simply put: if you wash the eggs you gather, you remove the natural, hen-given barrier that not only keeps the egg fresh longer, but may even push harmful bacteria into the egg.
This doesn’t mean that eggs stored on the countertop need to be filthy! You may want to keep a designated (emphasis on designated!) toothbrush or rag to remove large debris from the egg. There are also DIY or store-bought varieties of egg wipes that will loosen caked on messes without compromising the integrity of the bloom. Just remember- if an egg comes in contact with water, the bloom is compromised!
An added bonus of keeping eggs on the countertop is the visual appeal. Egg skelters are one of the many ways to artfully display the fruits of your girls’ labor!
Refrigerated eggs
If you’re a casual egg-consumer, or saving up for some holiday baking, refrigerating your chicken’s eggs may be your best option. Eggs can go straight into the fridge from the nesting box, or they can be washed first.
Fresh eggs can be washed in store-bought or homemade solutions, or under warm, running water. The water needs to be warmer than the egg you’re washing, and needs to remain in motion so that eggs aren’t soaking in a dirty rinse- both of these factors reduce the chance of bacteria being pushed into the egg. Once washed, eggs can be patted dry and placed in the fridge. All washed eggs need to be stored in the refrigerator or eaten promptly!
Refrigerated eggs (washed or unwashed) will remain fresh longer than their room temperature counterparts – several weeks longer, in fact. But it’s important to note that once eggs are refrigerated, they need to stay that way! Just as store bought eggs need to be kept chilled, fresh eggs (especially washed eggs) will spoil much faster going from fridge to countertop.
Long-term preservation
The last storage method is for long-term storage. Really long term!
You can “water glass” your eggs.
Water glassing is the method in which our ancestors used long before refrigeration or other preservation techniques were used. This method is simple and effective, and can be beneficial when needing to store eggs over the “fussy” season when hens aren’t feeling particularly productive!
To water glass eggs, you’ll need:
- Unwashed, freshly gathered eggs
- An airtight storage container
- Pickling lime
- Distilled or natural spring water
Once sealed, “glassed” eggs will remain fresh for up to 18 months!
If this method seems intriguing, be sure to do some research on the ratios needed for each ingredient, depending on how many eggs you plan to store.
Quality control: egg-checks
No matter which method you employ in storing your farm-fresh eggs, it’s always a good idea to do freshness-checks on any eggs you’re about to consume. One of the easiest methods is to place an egg in a glass of water. If the egg sinks, it’s fresh. If it turns on end (standing up), it might not be the freshest, but should still be safe to eat. If it floats – toss it!
Eggs become filled with gasses as a by-product of aging. Egg whites lose their viscosity and become watery. These lighter, air-filled eggs will float when placed in water!
If you don’t want to float your eggs, you can easily check their freshness by cracking them into separate containers before adding them to your skillet or mixing bowl. This method is particularly helpful when children are the primary gatherers and may be bringing in older eggs, or after going on vacation. You’ll know a rotten egg when you crack one!
In summary
- Fresh eggs can be stored a variety of ways, depending on quantity and duration needed.
- Eggs kept in the fridge need to remain in the fridge.
- Do not wash room temperature eggs.
- Once rinsed or cleaned with a solution, eggs must be refrigerated or used promptly.
- Check the freshness of your eggs by floating them in water just before using them, or by cracking individual eggs into a bowl before adding to dishes.
There you have it! Three simple and effective ways of storing your hens’ edible artwork.
Drop a line or a picture below to show how you store your farm eggs!
Please note: if you are offering your farm fresh eggs for sale, be sure to check your state’s guidelines for selling eggs. Some states require that farm eggs be sold unwashed, while others require washing and refrigeration. Additionally, some states may require eggs be given a “grade” before being sold to notate freshness.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Did you know that chickens were domesticated thousands of years ago? Our favorite egg-laying friends have been part of farming practices since 2000-1500 BC! Long praised for their plumage, egg laying efficiency and ease of care, chickens are kept all over the world in backyards and barnyards alike.
But what else do chickens have to offer? What are the benefits of owning chickens?
Fresh eggs
It’s true that most people acquire chickens to have fresh eggs on a regular basis. Chickens have provided humans with delicious protein-packed cackleberries for centuries. In fact, different breeds of chickens have emerged over the years to enhance both egg production and egg composition. Through selective breeding, hens are capable of laying not only white eggs, but brown, blue, green, and even pink eggs!
Good laying hens can produce 5-6 eggs per week. They start laying when they are about 18 weeks old (although this can vary between breeds, with some breeds not reaching laying-age until 6 months), and will continue to lay eggs until they are 5 or 6 years old. A well-kept and fed backyard hen can lay up to 250 in the first year! Eggs start off small and elongated, but once a hen has some successful egg-laying-sessions under her belt, the eggs will be larger and more shapely. You can’t expect her to keep going at this rate though! Your hen will slowly taper off her egg production to about 80% in her second year, with a decrease of around 10% thereafter. That means if she layed 250 eggs her first year, the second year would yield around 200 eggs. Year three would yield around 175, and so forth.
Some of the best egg-producing breeds include: Rhode Island Reds, Plymouth Barred Rocks and Buff Orpingtons. If colorful eggs are what you seek, breeds such as Ameraucana Marans, Barred Rocks, and Welsummers. Some popular cross-breeds have been developed for egg coloration, and go by the common names of “Easter Eggers” or “Olive Eggers.”
Even chickens that are considered low-egg producers can still lay 2-4 eggs per week. As long as hens are happy and healthy, you’ll be provided with a steady stream of fresh eggs to enjoy!
Pest control
Say goodbye to pests without calling the exterminator – just let your chickens take care of the creepy crawlies! Your flock will feast on just about every bug that plagues your yard. Ants, hookworms, moths, grasshoppers, ticks, centipedes, termites, spiders, and even scorpions are on the menu for chickens.
Insects are an excellent source of protein for your hens, and chasing bugs is enriching for them and entertaining for you! You’ll notice your chickens’ inner dinosaur (they are related, after all!) on display as they zoom around the yard after a wayward grasshopper or moth.
And if your human exterminator has already done an excellent job of ridding your property of insects? Grab a bag of dried mealworms as a treat or training tool. You can also visit your local pet store to purchase live insects for extra enrichment – simply release the insects into your chickens’ run and watch their instincts kick in!
Feathers
Yes, we said feathers! Eggs get the most attention, and while they are definitely fun to look at, chickens have other visually appealing products of their nature.
Chicken plumage comes in a wide array of beautiful colors and patterns. Along with regular feather-loss, chickens molt once a year, which means they shed the majority of their feathers. The result is a DIY dream come true! Hop onto Pinterest for some amazing feather craft ideas, or design your own stunning arrangements. The best part? You don’t have to worry about them spoiling!
City chickens or country chickens
Did you know that many cities allow chickens in backyards? That means you can likely have a small flock of chickens and experience a small portion of farm life – right in your own neighborhood!
Coops that will fit most backyard spaces include: the Eglu Go Up Chicken Coop or Eglu Go Chicken Coop. For larger spaces or flocks, the Eglu Cube Chicken Coop is the best choice. We’ve designed our entire line of Eglu Coops to be the whole package: a complete setup to fit into any space, large or small. Just imagine: what if you could enjoy life on a farm, right in the center of town?
Be sure to check with your local ordinances, as most cities prohibit roosters, and have space requirements between coops and other homes.
Learning opportunities
Chickens are fascinating animals. They have social hierarchy within a flock, natural instincts to be observed, and provide eggs that can be utilized in multiple ways.
You’ll often see a “leading lady” among your flock that seems to call the shots! Other hens will move in submission to a dominant hen. If you have a rooster, he may act like a big deal, but there’s usually a hen behind him keeping him in line! Most animals that live in flocks, packs or herds have a social hierarchy, but observing your backyard flock is one of the best ways to understand the social network of creatures that live in groups.
The natural instincts of chickens are similar to their wild-counterparts. The closest-related wild animal to chickens are “junglefowl”, which can be found in the jungles of Southeast Asia. And going farther back, chickens have recently been linked to a famous ancestor: the T-Rex! So by watching your chickens scratch and peck the ground, chase insects, spar with each other, and lay eggs on a schedule, you’re actually witnessing instinctual behaviors shared with wild animals and long-extinct dinosaurs!
Eggs aren’t just for eating. Have you ever thought about incubating eggs? Small incubators can be purchased for home-hatching. Chicks hatch after just 21 days in an incubator, which makes incubating eggs an excellent home biology lesson. And by purchasing an egg candler, you can mark the progress of the chicks inside the egg. Children and adults alike will be mesmerized by this process! Eggs can also be displayed on your countertop for several weeks (if they are unwashed), or can be preserved by “glassing” in an air-tight container for display and future use.
Composting companions
Are you tired of turning your compost pile? Let your chickens help! By giving your birds access to your compost piles, they’ll help the process along by keeping it bug-free and routinely turned. And while chicken poop might not be the most appealing part of having a flock, it’s actually great fertilizer! While your chickens scratch around in your compost, they’ll leave their own contribution!
Be sure to not let chickens have access to the compost until food scraps, coffee grounds, or other additives are decomposed to ensure they don’t ingest something harmful.
No more waste
No one likes wasting food. Thankfully, the majority of leftovers and kitchen scraps can be fed to your chickens! Consider keeping a container in your kitchen dedicated to the chickens for scraping plates into after meals. Most scraps and leftovers are safe to feed, but beware of too much salt and sugar. Foods harmful to your chickens include:
- Raw or uncooked potatoes and potato leaves
- High sugar processed foods such as doughnuts
- Tomato leaves and green tomatoes
- Eggplant or pepper leaves
- Raw or uncooked beans
- Coffee and coffee grounds
- Salty foods such as chips
- Uncooked rice
- Rhubarb fruit and leaves
- Chocolate
- Moldy or rotted produce
- Avocado
- Apple seeds
- Peach, apricot, cherry and pits
- Xylitol and other artificial sweeteners
Safe foods can be fed to your flock as supplemental feeding. The bulk of their diet should still consist of quality pellets and free-range options if possible.
Lawn ornaments
People have long decorated their lawns with various sculptures, statues, and other decor. Why not add living art to your decorating scheme?
Chickens come in a wide array of colors and sizes, and even have different textured feathers! Choose Silkies, Frizzles, or Polish to add some fun texture to your flock. Breeds such as Barred Rocks, Laced Wyandottes, or Mille Fleurs will add a pop of color to your yard that will rival any artificial accessory!
Much like keeping an aquarium, chickens add a beautiful and natural focal point to your home. And unlike fish, most chicken breeds get along with others, so mix and match to your heart’s content!
A backyard play-space
Chickens are naturally inquisitive and active! Create a backyard playspace for them to foster their natural curiosity. Some fun and entertaining options include: the Chicken Swing, Freestanding Chicken Perch, PoleTree, or chicken toys.
Like kids at a park, your chickens will get a thrill out of swinging, perching, pecking, and hopping around their own playground. Add some chicken-safe potted herbs or other plants for even more stimulating play!
Affordable
Chickens are one of the most cost-effective pets to own. They are inexpensive to obtain, and if free-ranging is an option, feed costs are kept to a minimum. If a flock is contained to a coop and run, a combination of quality pellets and scratch will keep them well fed and happy. Chicken treats are a great way to incorporate some free-range finds into a cooped-up flock. Additional inexpensive diet add-ins include lettuce, fruits and vegetables.
When you consider all of the benefits chicken-ownership has to offer, the return on investment is high! Fresh eggs, lawn care, pest control, entertainment, education, and companionship are just a few of the joys that come with caring for a flock of chickens.
What are some of the benefits of owning chickens that you have experienced? We’d love to hear from you!
This entry was posted in Chickens
The Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop helps make your chicken keeping lifestyle simple and fun! The double insulated walls ensure your chickens are always warm in the winter and cool in the summer, and the easy to clean surfaces make maintenance a breeze! But perhaps one of the best features that the Eglu Cube offers is its versatility!
Designed to fit flocks of all sizes, the Eglu Cube is the perfect coop for both the novice and seasoned chicken keepers alike. And if you are looking to create more space with your existing Cube, we’ve got everything you need to know!
Do my chickens need more space?
Whether you have 2 or 10 hens, you want your chickens to enjoy as much free range space as possible. Chickens aren’t that much different from us when it comes to space, and the more places we can explore, the happier we are! And the same is true for chickens! And we all know that happy hens = yummy eggs!
The Eglu Cube is the perfect hen house for all chicken keepers as it can house a wide variety of flocks:
- Up to 10 bantams OR
- 8 medium size hens OR
- 6 large breed hens
While the Cube itself is a perfect size space, allowing for even more room to roam is super beneficial to your feathered friends! Why? Because chickens like to have “personal space” just as much as any other animal! And at Omlet, who are we to stand in the way of a chicken and their space?
Versatility of Eglu Cube vs. traditional wooden coop
Our product designers carefully constructed the Cube with very unique features that allow for an easy housing system for both you and your hens! We know chickens and our mission with our designs is simple – provide a safe and easy to manage product that brings you and your animals closer and happier together.
So let’s take a look at just how versatile the Eglu Cube really is! We created the rear door panel to give you seamless access to the inside where you will find everything that you and your chickens will need. The separate nesting box creates a private space for the hens to feel comfortable and safe and also allows for chicken “alone time”.
Unlike traditional wooden coops that need to be painted and treated regularly, the Eglu Cube is completely maintenance free! A quick spray down with the hose to clean the messes and you will start to wonder why you haven’t been chicken keeping longer.
Walk In Runs and extensions
Are you looking to expand your flock? Or perhaps just add more space for your existing chickens to peck and play? Either way, we are here to help. Thanks to the modular and versatile design of the Eglu Cube, you can very simply create a henertaining playground for your chickens!
Walk In Chicken Run: The Omlet Walk In Run is truly customizable to fit any flock! Made from a strong and sturdy steel mesh, you can confidently place the Eglu Cube in the Walk In and let your chickens roam free without worry of any predator intrusion. The Walk In Run also provides a perfect way for you to actively engage with your feathered friends! Yes, even your 6ft tall friend can comfortably hug your hen as the run is designed for chickens – and humans! – of all sizes!
Chicken Run Extensions: Need even more space? No problem! The Omlet Chicken extensions were designed for exactly that purpose! With options of 3ft or 6ft widths and 3ft to 24ft lengths, you can literally customize your run to your specific needs. But what about when it rains? No need to worry! We have you, and your chickens, covered with the weather protection run covers! Rain or shine, your chickens will be just fine in the Walk In Run and Extensions!
Autodoor
The advancement of technology has made life easier for us, as well as our animals! And chickens are no exception. If you’re looking for the safest and most convenient way to let your chickens in and out of the coop, look no further than the Omlet Automatic Chicken Coop Door – the best hands-free chicken door on the market!
Chicken keepers everywhere love this door for its ease of operation and the added security it provides. Designed to fit both the Eglu Cube as well as a traditional wooden coop, the Autodoor can be operated by a light sensor or a timer. No longer do you have to jump out of bed in the morning or rush home at night to manually handle the coop door! Enjoy your life more freely knowing that your flock is perfectly safe with the Autodoor feature!
Wheels
A chicken coop on wheels? What more could any hen ask for?! By adding wheels to your Cube, you are able to find the perfect pecking spot in your backyard by moving your hen house anywhere!
And when the temperatures start to get colder, simply move the Cube closer to your house! Not only will your hens get the extra protection from your dwelling, but you also won’t have to walk too far in the cold to check on your chickens.
We know that you have many options when it comes to choosing a coop home for your chickens. That’s why we created the Eglu Cube to be everything a chicken keeper on any level could ever want or need. And with all of the extra accessories and options, your backyard beckons to be a spacious playground for your feathered friends!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Depending on where you are in your walk of life, bedtime can be either a highly anticipated event, or a dreaded routine for humans. Thankfully, bedtime is something that comes naturally to chickens — and you can keep your flock on schedule with the Smart Autodoor independent from other human obligations. Find out how this revolutionary chicken-keeping gadget will improve your flock’s safety, and simplify your own schedule.
Automate your flock
Some of us are early risers, while others take gentle coaxing and lots of caffeine to tackle the day ahead. Chickens fall into the first category. In fact, if chickens don’t get their early start, they’re likely to raise an almighty ruckus to convey their displeasure.
Whether you let your flock free-range or keep them close to home in a walk in chicken run or with chicken fencing, your hens will always be safest when tucked into their chicken coops overnight. But what happens when you take a trip, or get sick? Or get home after dark, or simply forget? All of these events don’t have to throw your flock off schedule. Enter: the Smart Autodoor.
Imagine laid-back mornings where your leading ladies can strut right out of their coop at dawn while you enjoy sleeping in. Then when night falls, they can put themselves to bed where they’re securely sealed in their coops without the help of their humans? If only human children were this easy.
Working with your chickens’ schedule
Nature has provided chickens with their own built-in clock that prompts them to seek the safety of a roost when night begins to fall. You’ll notice your hens enter their coop when dusk descends, settling onto their roosting surface with their feather skirts draped over their feet. But some chickens may dawdle in the dwindling daylight in search of the last few insects of the evening. The Smart Autodoor helps encourage even the most free spirited hens to head to bed.
The Smart Autodoor has its own sophisticated settings to accommodate your flock’s schedule. The intuitive daylight sensors located on the control panel enable the door to be programmed to open and close at the desired daylight levels to keep with your hen’s regular routine. This setting can be adjusted through our user-friendly app, or manually on the control panel itself.
Coax your chickens to safety on a schedule
Chickens aren’t the only animals that take their cues from the sun. The majority of predators come out at dusk and stay active until dawn. Depending on where you live, you may need to usher your flock to safety before dusk and keep them secured in their coop an hour or two after dawn to avoid nature’s equivalent of predator rush hour.
The Smart Autodoor’s manual time setting can be adjusted through the app or control panel to set the schedule of your choosing. Simply set the open and close times for instant poultry protection around the clock. This method may require some training on your part to help your hens adjust to this type of schedule, so come prepared with chicken treats or spend a few days putting your hens in the coop right before the door is scheduled to close to help them acclimate to their new schedule.
For the “freebirds”
Not everyone loves a schedule. If your flock has adopted a free-range, do-as-they-please lifestyle, they may not find the idea of structured bedtime appealing. That’s why the Smart Autodoor has a manual setting for the door to be opened and closed whenever it’s most convenient for you and your flock.
The WiFi connected Smart Autodoor can be controlled via the mobile app anywhere in the world. You can also sync the Smart Autodoor with your Alexa or Google Home device for a virtual coop-concierge to open and close the coop door. Through the app, you’ll be able to see if the door is currently open or closed, and manually control the door to secure your free-spirits whenever they decide to head to the roost.
Give your flock a night light
Like children, chickens are wary of the dark. When you’re pint-sized poultry, it’s easy to be scared of things that go bump in the night — and for your flock, many of those threats are real. Our coop light integrates with Smart Autodoor to act as a soft beacon to beckon your hens to bed.
The coop light has a default setting to come on 5 minutes before the Smart Autodoor is scheduled to close. This setting can be configured in the app for customized light settings. Your coop light will automatically turn off a few minutes after the door closes, enforcing a respectable “lights out” time. The coop light can also be turned on and off manually, making late night coop checks a breeze.
Other benefits
Along with the changing of the seasons comes time changes and schedule shifts for your flock. These changes usually occur slowly, but some areas experience fast weather shifts and short transition periods. That means it’s never too late, or too early, to begin preparing your flock for the next season ahead.
The Smart Autodoor keeps your flock on schedule based on the sun or the clock, but also offers additional protection against predators insulation against the cold. The horizontally opening mechanism is nearly impossible for predators to pry open, and the secure seal makes cold drafts through an open coop door a thing of the past.
Omlet and your flock
When questions arise, Omlet answers with tangible, functional solutions. The Smart Autodoor answers the question of: what if chicken keepers could automate their flock from anywhere in the world? And when combined with an integrated coop light, your flock will never miss roost time. Add a Smart Autodoor to our safe, insulated chicken coops for year-round comfort, protection, and convenience for you and your flock.
This entry was posted in Chickens
A quick search on the internet will provide a plethora of chicken coop options to purchase. But not all coops are created the same! At Omlet, our product designers know that keeping chickens is fun and simple, which is exactly why they created the easy to assemble and quick to clean Eglu Cube Chicken Coop.
Why you need an Eglu Cube
While wooden chicken coops have traditionally been used to house hens, there are better options available! Before you go buying a mini-house lookalike, take a read over all the reasons the plastic Eglu Cube is the best option:
- The material your coop is made of matters! The Omlet Eglu Cube is made of hard, durable plastic making it resistant to termites and parasites. Unlike a traditional wooden coop that needs to be treated, painted, and reroofed regularly, the Eglu Cube doesn’t require any of that maintenance – think of all the time and money you will save!
- The easiest to clean coop on the market! The product designers made this coop with clean-up in mind so all of the surfaces are easy to wipe down in minutes. No more need to worry about smelly chicken coops! In fact, all of the Eglu parts are easy to remove and even pressure wash clean if needed. Your hens will thank you for a sparkly clean and hygienically healthy home!
- It’s a weatherproof wonder! Chicken keepers from Florida to Fargo can attest to the outstanding weather performance of the Eglu Cube! Carefully designed with a unique double-wall insulation system, the Eglu allows your chickens to stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer. When tested against a traditional wooden coop in the cold winter of Germany, we concluded that a winter ready chicken coop like the Cube can make all the difference between a cozy night’s sleep and one spent shivering to keep warm!
Hassle-free Cube = hassle-free chicken keeping
Some people may object to keeping chickens for reasons that include smell, time commitment, and space. But the reality is that these are all just chicken myths, and with the right products and preparations, chickens are low-maintenance pets. The Eglu Cube from Omlet helps to make that job easier!
SMELL
So you think chickens in your backyard might create a bad smell? Well, the truth is, chickens are actually clean animals. The smell that many are afraid of isn’t from the chickens themselves, but rather from the chicken droppings. But, with the easy to clean Eglu Cube, you can spray down your coop in minutes and avoid any unpleasant odors.
TIME
Like any animal, owning chickens requires a time commitment! Just like cats and dogs, they need daily food and water and physical and mental stimulation. Other than that, they are self-sufficient animals! Investing in the Eglu Cube allows you to save even more on time with its easy assembly! We had the novice chicken-keeper in mind when designing this coop, so we created a product that is super easy to put together. In fact you just need one tool to get started!
SPACE
Probably one of the biggest myths in owning chickens is that you need to have a huge backyard to house your hens! For the average chicken-keeper, a regular sized backyard will do just fine! The great thing about the Eglu Cube is that you can opt to add wheels to the coop allowing for it to be movable by one person to another location. What chicken wouldn’t like a house on wheels?
Step-by-step guide
Choosing the right chicken coop can be the hardest part of chicken keeping. So now that you have decided on the Omlet Eglu Cube, let’s take a look at the 7 simple steps to assemble your hen’s new house!
- STEP 1: Grab a screwdriver and a friend. Yes, that’s all you need to put together this super easy to assemble coop! All of the materials are included in the boxes upon arrival, so you simply need to lay everything out to get started. If you want, you can even watch this tutorial video to follow along each step!
- STEP 2: Now it’s time to construct the frame! With the help of a friend, follow the detailed step-by-step instruction manual to build your coop base. Made from heavy duty steel, this frame is not only strong but will keep your chickens safe and secure.
- STEP 3: Now it’s time to get rolling! If you opted for the wheel accessories, this step includes their installation. The moving mechanism of the Eglu Cube wheels was created to allow for one person to move the coop with ease!
- STEP 4: Time to install the run – a chicken’s favorite part! The size of the run you buy depends on how many chickens you plan on keeping. The goal should always be to give your chickens the most space you can – either free range in the backyard or with a bigger walk-in chicken run. And if you find it hard to decide which is best for you, just contact our customer service and we will be happy to help!
- STEP 5: You’re almost there! Now it’s time to assemble the cube house and attach it to the frame! Made from 100% recyclable and UV stabilized polyethylene (super strong plastic!), you will have peace of mind knowing your chickens are in the best built hen house on the market.
- STEP 6: It’s accessory time! One of the greatest benefits of the Omlet Eglu Cube is all the optional accessories you can add to your hen house! The essential feeder and waterer bins are constructed from the same strong material as the house and designed to be just as easy to clean! You can also add the automatic chicken coop door which allows your chickens (and you!) to sleep soundly at night knowing that predators cannot get in!
- STEP 7: All that’s left to do now is add your flock! You have just built an efficient and practical home for your chickens that can stay with them for years to come.
Maintenance of your coop
While Omlet products are known for their durability, we always recommend regular maintenance on all products to ensure you will get the most out of them! The Eglu Cube is practically maintenance-free with its super easy to clean design, but there are few things you can keep your eye on when out and about with your chickens to make sure stability and security are 100%.
- If you notice any run clips not as tightly secured, it may be time to replace them.
- If you are a seasoned chicken-keeper and purchased an Eglu Cube before summer 2019, you may start to notice some wear on the previously provided friction stair strips. Consider upgrading your coop with the Eglu Cube ladder grips that not only make it easier for your chickens to walk in and out of the house, but are more durable as well!
- While the cube house is completely covered and protects your chickens from the elements, many chicken-keepers add run covers for added protection when the chickens are roaming the run.
One of the greatest gifts of chicken keeping is, of course, the benefit of wholesome, fresh eggs! But chickens can also be very henertaining! After long, you will notice you are loving your chickens just as much as your four-legged pets. So when it comes to making sure they have the best life possible, be sure you get them the best house!
This entry was posted in Chickens
What’s there not to love about a little autumnal getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life? Long walks in the countryside with the crunching of crisp leaves beneath your feet, or maybe for you it’s endless hours inside relaxing and avoiding the elements and enjoying the sound of chirping birds from the comfort of a cosy cottage. Speaking of…what about the chickens at home?!
If you didn’t make it on a summer holiday this year, you may have never experienced being away from your feathered friends for more than a few hours. So, what exactly do you do when you’ve made the decision to leave your chickens?
What is a chicken sitter?
Babysitters, dog sitters, and even cat sitters are terms we’re all familiar with, but what about a chicken sitter? Just as you would when leaving beloved fido for a few days, a chicken sitter is a trusted individual or group that can take care of your chickens in your absence. This might be a friend, neighbour, family member, or even someone from a reputable, trusted chicken sitter directory.
How long can chickens be left alone for?
Leaving your flock to their own devices is a bit different to leaving another pet such as a dog or cat at home. These amazing animals are pretty self-sufficient, so can be left alone for up to 3 days before you should have to consider a chicken sitter. This being said, it won’t do your chooks any harm either, should you want someone to keep a beady eye on them even if you’re only going away for the night! Most importantly, chickens need constant access to food and water that won’t run out, and enough space in their enclosure to move around.
Whilst chickens are relatively low-maintenance, we still know just how important it is to you to make sure your feathered babies will be well looked after when you’re not there. That’s why we’ve compiled a list of these essentials that will help not only the lucky chosen chicken sitter, but also for you to feel reassured, and of course for your chooks to remain safe, comfortable, and happy during your time away, regardless of how experienced (or inexperienced!) your chicken sitter is. Now, are you ready to bid bye-bye to the girls for a few days? Here are the essentials.
The essentials
A secure chicken coop
The best way to make sure your chickens are safe is with a predator-resistant coop such as the Eglu Cube from Omlet. Thanks to the unique anti-tunnel skirt, pesky predators will be deterred from trying to break or dig through the coop, meaning that you can be assured that your hens will have the best levels of protection whilst you relax on holiday. Take a read of our How Strong Are Eglu Cube Chicken Coops? where our Eglu Cube chicken coop was really put to the test (p.s. It survived a black bear attack!).
As well as being incredibly secure, all of the Eglu chicken coops have been expertly designed to be super simple to clean. So whether your hens are in the capable hands of an eggspert chicken keeper or amateur Auntie Alice, looking after chickens has never been easier. The Eglu Cube’s smooth, wipe-clean surfaces and slide-out droppings tray mean that your chicken sitter can have your hens’ home sparkling clean in just minutes! Watch this clip to see how sensationally speedy Cube coop cleaning can be.
Hentertainment
It’s key to make sure that your chickens stay hentertained whether you’re there or not. Having bored chickens can lead to unwanted behaviour such as egg eating, so it’s important to keep their brains mentally stimulated. And just as with other pets, you can encourage this through play. Make sure that your hens have an unrivalled garden setup before your travels, which can be created using toys such as the Caddi Treat Holder and Pendant Peck Toy, which can easily be refilled by your chicken sitter. Not only do chicken toys provide chooks with hours of entertainment, but also help to improve coop hygiene by keeping food off the ground – even less cleaning for your chickens’ provisional parent!
Poultry playground essentials
Another great addition for your hens before you go is the PoleTree Customisable Chicken Perch. Choose the perfect perch kit for your flock, assemble it in a few simple steps, and your chickens will do the rest! It’s a great opportunity for your chickens to show off their impressive perching skills to their sitter too!
If you’re happy to keep your chickens free ranging with your chicken sitter, the Freestanding Chicken Perch will suit your poultry playground perfectly. Just like the Poletree Chicken Perch, the Freestanding Chicken Perch is completely customisable, so will keep your chickens hentertained, with the perches adjusted to their abilities and needs. Don’t forget to set up your perch before heading off, and give your hens the chance to get used to their new accessory.
An automatic chicken coop door
An automatic chicken coop door is next on our chicken sitter essentials list. This is a must-have if you want to ensure your hens’ routine remains the same whilst you’re away. Omlet’s Autodoor allows users to choose from 3 unique settings to fit their lifestyles. Opt for the light setting and your Autodoor can be automated to close at dusk and open at dawn. The time setting means that you can choose an exact time for the door to open and close, whilst the manual setting gives chicken keepers the option to control the door however they wish.
This makes the Autodoor perfect for when leaving your chickens with a sitter, knowing that you can still remain in control of bantam bedtime. What’s more, the Autodoor has built-in safety sensors, meaning that you needn’t worry about any feathery obstructions getting trapped.
If you haven’t quite got your hands on an Eglu chicken coop just yet, then the Autodoor can still be attached to any wooden chicken coop, maximising the security of your chickens’ enclosure whilst you’re on holiday.
The ultimate thank you gift!
You’ve made it a week away from your chickens! No doubt, you’ve missed your flock tremendously but know that they have been left in capable hands following our chicken sitter essentials guide! By now, your chicken sitter is already convinced to get a few of their own (if they haven’t already!), but it’s also time to say thanks with the ultimate thank you gift, and what better than a kitchen accessory to store the delicious eggs your hens have been laying all week.
Omlet’s Egg Skelter is a great choice, coming in 3 colours to fit the design of any home. It’s also an eggcellent way of keeping hens’ eggs in date order, to ensure optimum freshness. Alternatively, go for the Egg Ramp as the ultimate chicken sitter thank you gift. The bold design stores up to 12 eggs and conveniently keeps them at room temperature.
Leaving any pet behind isn’t easier, regardless of how long you decide to go away for. Most importantly, is that you are confident in who you have decided to leave your chickens with, But with these chicken sitter essentials, it will mean happy holidays for you and as less stress as possible for your chooks!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Choosing between chicken wire and chicken fencing is one of the first steps in getting your new hens set up in their new home. Both products focus on keeping your chickens safe within their new home. Our guide explores the key features of chicken wire vs chicken fencing, to help you decide which is right for you and your flock.
What is chicken wire?
Chicken wire is a type of wire mesh, most typically made from steel that is used to pen in chickens. The wire is thin and flexible, with the steel formed into hexagonal gaps that can vary in size. As well as using chicken wire for your flock, many people put it to other uses in their backyard. From creating pens for small animals, to protecting your plants, it can be used for a variety of tasks in the garden.
What is chicken fencing?
Chicken fencing does the same job as chicken wire, however it is more durable, and far easier to install. The fencing allows you to chicken-proof your yard, whilst easily giving your hens space to roam. Made from stronger materials, such as aluminium and polypropylene. You’ll also find chicken fencing tends to be higher than traditional wire solutions.
Chicken wire vs chicken fencing: 3 key differences
Designed to perform the same job in slightly different ways, there are 3 key differences when comparing chicken wire vs chicken fencing. These are what to look out for:
- Height – Although they can’t get very high, chickens can fly and so it’s important to have a garden solution that they cannot escape. Chicken fencing is designed to be higher than chicken wire, meaning your hens will be prevented from flying away!
- Durability – Chicken wire and fencing tend to be made from different materials, which is the main feature that sets them apart. The wire is most commonly made of steel, whilst fencing can be made from sturdier plastic materials.
- Ease of use – Chicken fencing is designed in a way that ensures it doesn’t tangle, and comes with easy to install poles so you have your hens roaming in no time. Whilst chicken wire is fine and can easily get in a mess which you’ll have to untangle. You may also have to attach it yourself to wooden poles.
Is poultry netting the same as chicken wire?
Poultry netting is another name for chicken wire, and is used to pen hens into their chicken coop. For an extra level of protection for your chickens, you can choose an electric poultry fence that will deter predators. We would however still recommend taking further precautions as well as this to ensure your flock is safe.
Are chicken wire & chicken fencing predator proof?
If you’re raising a flock you want to keep them protected from pesky chicken predators. Unfortunately, whilst chicken wire is excellent at keeping your grown hens in – it’s not quite as good at keeping predators out. The hexagons within the wire allow effortless access for racoons and snakes, as well as being big enough for baby chicks to escape. Whilst the thin nature of the steel can be easily chewed through by larger predators, such as foxes.
Many hen keepers use the chicken wire to cover the top of their chicken runs to ward off larger air-borne predators.
Like chicken wire, chicken fencing is also not designed to be predator-proof – rather it’s sole purpose is to expand the space your hens are in. Whilst your flock are roaming around the space given by their fence, you’ll want to keep an eye for predators as they may still be able to chew through the netting. A walk in chicken run will provide greater protection from predators if you need to take your eye off the hens.
Which lasts longer: chicken wire vs chicken fencing
As it is made from thin steel, chicken wire is prone to rust and corrosion. This means you’ll find it only lasts up to 5 years, with you needing to replace it frequently. Those who live in a wet climate, with moist soil will find it rusts quicker than those in drier climates.
As it is made from more durable materials, chicken fencing is likely to last longer than traditional chicken wire. This means you won’t find the need to replace it quite so often. The fence is also far more stiff that ensures it doesn’t tangle in the same way as chicken wire, which also helps to extend its longevity.
How many types of wire fencing are there for chickens?
Chicken wire can come in a variety of metals, but galvanized steel versions provide the best strength and durability. As with choosing between different chicken coops, you’ll want to find the perfect wire for your hens. You’ll also find that the wire comes in different diameters, choosing a higher gauge will make it more difficult for animals to gnaw through the chicken wire. You may also wish to consider the size of the hexagons the wire creates, as ones that are too large will be easier for small chicks, and predators to slip through.
Chicken fencing at Omlet
Omlet’s Chicken Fencing is the ideal choice for giving your chicks extra space in your backyard. With unique benefits that make our fencing the ultimate choice, you and your hens will love your new fence!
- Taller – Depending on what breed of chicken you have, they may fly a little. We’ve made our fence high enough that your hens shouldn’t be able to escape.
- Connectable – If you already have a run, or want to connect the hen fence to your garden fence, we have a wall connection kit that will help you attach the two with ease.
- Blends into the backyard – Our improved fencing comes in black that blends seamlessly into your outdoor space.
- Easy to install – Tangle-proof netting, with adjustable poles makes our fence super easy to install. Each pole comes with two spikes for stability that can be trod into the ground easily.
- Reflective – Safety is important in any outdoor space. Our chicken fencing has high-vis guy ropes, as well as reflective badges on the fence itself so you can spot it at night.
- Gate for easy use – For those wanting to get in and out of the pen to see their hens, our fencing comes with a simple gate system so you can have access to your chicks.
Petcare from Omlet
For keen chicken keepers, we have everything you need for happy hens. Customize their coop with fun chicken perches, chicken toys, and even protect them against the elements with our weather protection for coops and runs.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Amy Wolsey lives in Norfolk with her 11 happy hens. She’s kept busy with 6 Cream legbars and 5 Pekin Bantams. They, like her Springer Spaniel Oliver, love to help her in her backyard and vegetable patch! Follow Amy on her Instagram account chicksandveg.
Wasn’t that a long hot summer we had in the UK? Well it certainly feels like we’re changing seasons now with the arrival of some cooler temperatures and darker evenings. Just like we dig out the jumpers from the wardrobe and crave warming soups rather than salads for lunch, it’s time to start thinking about keeping our chickens happy over fall and into winter. Now, I’m not suggesting we wrap our chickens in cosy jumpers! But, there are some things we can do to make sure they stay healthy and comfortable in the coming months.
Health check
It’s a really good time to think about giving your chickens a general check over and looking for anything unusual. I keep an eye on my chickens all the time and look for changes in behaviour or differences in their condition but a closer look every once in a while at their feet, feather condition, head and combs is good practice. It’s also particularly important to check your hens are happy at this time of year as most go into moult. Moulting is when chickens shed any damaged or loose feathers and replace them with a fresh set. It usually happens over a few weeks and they might look a little scruffy as the new feathers grow but it’s totally normal. Growing new feathers is quite a big job and as feathers are mostly protein, I like to give my hens a boost to help them along. I add extra protein and calcium to their diets with some supplements and purchase some extra treats for them to enjoy!
Deep clean
I regularly clean my coops but a change of season always gives me the motivation to do a thorough deep clean so everything is sparkling ready for wetter, muddier weather. With the Omlet chicken coops being plastic and so easy to keep clean, I like to give them a proper hose down before disinfecting and adding some fresh bedding. It’s also a really good chance for me to check round the runs and make sure everything is secure. I’m even thinking of adding an extension to my run later in the year so all the hens can be together so this is a good chance to plan it out!
Weather protection
Speaking of my chicken run, I’m going to add some more protection to the sides to keep things cosy over winter. I’ve got the heavy duty covers for the roof which keep it lovely and dry! It’s so important for chickens to have a dry space over winter. Lots of wet mud isn’t good for chickens and can cause all sorts of problems with their feet but also, it’s just not nice for them to move around in. Plus, chickens love a dust bath even over winter. And especially when they’re going through a moult, it’s nice for them to be able to scratch and clean those feathers! When thinking about your run, it’s also worth considering protecting the sides too and providing a bit of a wind break so the Omlet clear covers will be perfect! There’s even some cosy insulating blankets I can put over the coops in the depths of winter. The Eglus have twin walled construction so it’s not a must but with the crazy weather we’ve had this summer, who knows what to expect! Plus, any excuse to treat my hens to something new!
All in all, fall is a great excuse to give things a check over and refresh whilst keeping my hens happy, cosy and healthy! Now, where are my woolly jumpers…
This entry was posted in Chickens
Social Media Executive Rosie has been at Omlet for a year, and when she was asked by her managers if she was interested in broadening her chicken knowledge (and creating fun content for Omlet’s social media platforms) with her very own flock, she said yes straight away.
Read on to find out what the chickens have been up to in the summer heat, as well as some useful tips and advice from the British Hen Welfare Trust.
What’s new?
We decided to upgrade our setup and get the Omlet Chicken Fencing. The hens still really love free ranging outside the run, but they were pooing all over the patio where we have dinner in the yard, and scratching up all the stones from the borders and spreading them across the lawn. I do love the chickens, but it was getting slightly tedious.
With the fencing they still have a lot of space, but they are limited to the grass. That’s their favorite bit anyway, so we all win.
Has Evie the dog got used to the hens yet?
She has, actually. It took some training, but now she knows not to go for them. That’s another great thing about the fencing; even though she’s far from as interested in the chickens as she was in the beginning, I still don’t completely trust her. The fencing works as a nice barrier between them, so that we can all be out in the yard at the same time.
I appreciate it might not work for all dogs, but it’s been great for us.
Since Rosie started sharing her chicken experience on the Omlet social media accounts, she has received plenty of positive feedback from the community – as well as quite a lot of questions!
I’m far from a chicken expert, I’m still learning a lot and I couldn’t really be of help when people were asking questions about their flock.
One thing that has been great when I’ve been worried about my hens has been the BHWT Helpline. Anyone can call or email them, you don’t need to have rescued hens, or even live in the UK. So I got in contact and asked if they could help with some common questions I often see on the Omlet Facebook Group, and they were really helpful. I hope it’s helpful!
My hen is struggling to lay, what can I do to help her?
She could be egg bound. Egg binding is when a hen is unable to lay an egg in her system. You may have noticed your hen, who usually lays daily, sitting in her nest box for long periods. If she doesn’t produce an egg after multiple visits to her nest box, try a warm bath followed by a lubricant such as Vaseline just inside and around the vent to help her pass the egg. Placing her in a dark secluded place to nest away from other birds will also help.
If she starts to become distressed and doesn’t lay an egg, it’s advisable to seek veterinary help.
My hen has laid an egg with a very thin shell that breaks when I pick it up, is this OK?
A thin-shelled egg is usually due to a calcium deficiency, so feed a good quality layer’s feed which has balanced nutrients. You can improve shells too by cutting back on the treats you feed daily. Finally, there’s a chance your hen may be going off lay or moulting which will also have a bearing on shell quality.
One of my hens is being attacked by the others, shall I remove her?
If one hen can be identified as a bully it is better to remove her from the flock for a few days; this will drop the bully down the pecking order. Only remove the weaker hen if she has been injured, but try to house her within sight of her flock mates and reintroduce her as quickly as possible; make sure she has individual access to feed and water for short periods and give her some TLC, she’ll soon learn you’re her best friend.
My newly adopted hen is limping, why is this?
It is not uncommon a couple of days after adoption to see some limping due to bruising, but this should quickly resolve. If it doesn’t please contact the Hen Helpline and we’ll help you check thoroughly for any underlying issues.
My hen is standing really upright and waddling like a penguin, what is wrong with her?
This sounds like it could be egg peritonitis. Many hens cope very well with this condition, especially if fed just on a mixed corn diet. However, occasionally a hen may require antibiotics which you would need to get from your vet who may suggest a hormone implant to temporarily take her off lay.
My hen’s crop feels like a deflated water balloon. When I pick her up there is smelly brown fluid coming out of her vent and she keeps flicking her head. What is it and what should I do?
This sounds like it could be a sour crop. We recommend you call the BHWT’s Hen Helpline and chat to one of their team who will guide you and/or suggest if you need to seek veterinary help.
This entry was posted in Chickens
The Eglu Cube chicken coop is built to last – whatever gets thrown at it. The durable, twin-wall chicken house and heavy duty, steel weld mesh is strong enough to protect your chickens from hurricanes, tornadoes, bears, bobcats and more. These case studies are just some of the many stories from happy chicken keepers around the world.
This Eglu Cube survived a hurricane!
All parts for the Eglu Cubes are available as spares so if anything gets damaged you can easily repair it. Contact our friendly customer service team by email or phone, and they’ll be happy to help.
The Eglu Cube chicken coop holds firm against strong winds and hurricanes, and is easy to tie down or move into a sheltered area. After Hurricane Ian hit Florida at 150 miles per hour, Jeremy was astonished to see his Eglu Cube still standing, unmarked in the thick of the aftermath.
“Our Eglu (unbelievably) survived Hurricane Ian. We are 3/4 of a mile from the Gulf of Mexico near where the hurricane made landfall. Venice is badly damaged. Our neighbourhood, in particular, took a very big hit.
Our entire back yard was destroyed. The fence is a complete loss. Several large (30+ foot) pine trees fell down, including one into the neighbour’s roof and one that snapped the power pole in half. But the Eglu did not have a single scratch. We moved the chickens back in right away.”
Jeremy – Florida, USA.
This Eglu Cube survived a bear attack!
When you live in a rural area, with black bears for neighbours, it’s understandable to be worried about your chickens. But Tom’s Eglu Cube quite-rightly earned his trust when a 300 pound bear was unsuccessful in its attempt to break and enter his chicken coop in Virginia.
“We live in an area with black bears, coyotes, foxes, and other predators. Over the weekend our Eglu was attacked by a 300 pound black bear and despite the wire roof being smushed with its weight, the Eglu remained intact and no chickens were harmed. We most likely will need an electric fence but we were impressed with the coop being able to withstand the assault. Very impressed! Also, with 2 young children the Eglu is easy to clean and maintain – minimal maintenance required and our boys able to open and close the doors. Outstanding! The best coop we could have with our rural area and lifestyle”
Tom – Virginia, USA.
Over in California, Tracy and her sweet silkies also had an unwelcome visitor in the form of a large bobcat. But thanks to the Eglu Cube, Tracy enjoys peace of mind knowing her girls are safe and sound.
“We are the Lloyds, and we live in San Diego, CA. We have four silkies – Elsa, Nugget, Ickey, and Shuffle. They are the cutest and sweetest, little bunch. They like to stick together, and scratch for bugs, worms, and other treats.
The predator in the video is a bobcat, but we also have coyotes, owls, hawks, and more. Our house backs to a canyon, and we have frequent visits from various predators. We have so many visits, that I do not allow my poodles to go outside in the backyard unless they are next to us, and we are actively watching them, but I’m confident the hens are safe in their coop.
We purchased an Eglu Cube because we love our silkies, and we wanted to keep them safe. Although we still have a motion-sensor camera to monitor, the silkies have been happy and safe!”
Tracy – California, USA.
This Eglu Cube survived a fallen tree!
Thanks to the thick, twin wall house and steel frame, the Eglu Cube chicken coop is unaffected by the roughest of storms and its path of destruction. Anna from Germany saw for herself when a fallen pine tree squared up to the Eglu Cube.
Man, did we have a few stormy days! Everywhere in the neighborhood, trees were falling left, right and centre, and one of them on the edge of our premises, exactly where our Eglu Cube chicken coop is!
The giant pine tree fell across our Cube, but when we came out to check on the hens we couldn’t believe our eyes. The tree was resting right on top of the Eglu, but it hadn’t been damaged at all. As soon as the Autodoor opened, the chickens walked out and started to scratch around as if nothing had happened, and we could collect fresh eggs that same afternoon.
After some serious chainsaw work we were able to investigate the Cube, finding that only one roof panel was damaged, but we could even bend that back a bit. Unbelievable!”
Anna – Germany
Months after replacing her rotten wooden coop, Ashleigh was relieved to find her hens unharmed after severe storms had blown down a large tree, crushing her fence, but stopped in its tracks by the reliable Eglu Cube chicken coop.
“We’ve had storms overnight and went to let the chickens out this morning to find a large tree had come down from the bush behind the house and had landed on our fence and chicken coop. The fence couldn’t withstand the impact, but the Eglu Cube did. We replaced our old wooden coop with the Omlet one a few months ago as the wooden coop was rotting in our humid mountain air, and we’re so glad we did. Not only is it so easy to clean, I don’t think our chickens would have survived the tree falling on the coop. The coop does need some repairs as the run and coop itself have buckled, but I still can’t believe how strong it is.”
Ashleigh – New South Wales, Australia.
Tornado – yep, this Eglu Cube survived one!
Despite needing a good clean and a reshape, Lori’s Eglu Cubes survived a direct hit from a severe tornado in Texas, and her hens were unharmed – though a little shaken by the whole thing.
“We sustained a direct hit from a F3 (almost F4) tornado in April. Much of our ranch was destroyed (hay barn completely gone, barndominium, horse stalls and woodshop required demo to slab, house currently unliveable). We lost two cows and many trees. But, we survived in our tornado room with our dogs and our 2 Omlet Cubes and all of our chickens survived. One Cube was completely upside down and the other was trapped by fallen tree limbs and debris. The chickens were trapped by our hawk netting that collapsed with the tree limbs; actually fortutios and I think they would have been blown away – ah, the story they could tell! We were able to turn the one coop upright and get them all in one for that first night. Yes, 12 wet hens can fit in an Eglu Cube!
While the run and skirting are bent up, and I had to remove a few pieces of skirting, they are still functional. The back door on one sustained a hit that broke a small piece of plastic that makes the handle a little loose, but still functional. The Autodoors still work, one of the shade covers survived, as did the food and water bowls! Other than being scratched up, very dirty and with misshapen runs, they are fine! They have since had a thorough washing and if you didn’t look at the bent run, you’d never know anything happened! Thanks for making such a great product!”
Lori – Texas, USA.
Eglu Cube – 1, Mountain lion – 0
Pesky predators are no match for the Eglu Cube. Watch how this crafty mountain lion in Arizona made several attempts of sneaking their way into the Eglu Cube. But with its unique indestructible and anti-predator design, even the biggest of cats are left baffled by this coop.
Dug Rothrock – Arizona, USA.
This Eglu Cube saved hens from the flames
Disaster struck Erin from Arkansas when their backyard went up in flames. Fortunately, their hens were tucked safely away from the fire in their Eglu Cube chicken coop, which was able to withstand the terrifying event. Whilst the coop has been left with visual reminders of the blaze, Erins’s chickens survived thanks to the hard-wearing materials of the Eglu Cube.
Erin – Arkansas, USA.
So, how strong is the Eglu Cube chicken coop? From wild weather to wild predators, you and your chickens can rest easy with the Eglu Cube chicken coop, designed by Omlet and trusted by thousands of chicken keepers.
Got an amazing story to tell? If your Eglu has saved your hens from stormy weather or unwelcome visitors, please email us at blog@omlet.us.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Social Media Executive Rosie has been at Omlet for a year, and when she was asked by her managers if she was interested in broadening her chicken knowledge (and creating fun content for Omlet’s social media platforms) with her very own flock, she said yes straight away.
Since we last spoke to Rosie a few weeks ago, the 5 ex-caged hens have settled into their new home and are starting to discover the world outside the safety of their Eglu Cube and Walk in Chicken Run.
We let them out one nice afternoon after having had them on the run for a few weeks. They were quite hesitant at first, as if they didn’t really know what to do. But once they realized they could go and explore they absolutely loved it!
They have a few hours outside every day, and they run around on the grass, make dust baths in the borders and peck at everything. Before, we could go in and out of the run and they wouldn’t really be bothered about the door being open, but now as soon as we come to see them, they stand waiting to be let out and often try to escape between our legs. So they’ve definitely had a taste of freedom, and they love it!
Have you had any luck with Evie the dog interacting with them?
We still keep Evie inside when the chickens are out, just because I’m not sure how she would handle it. More than anything I think she would just like to play with them, but probably a bit too rough.
We’re going to get some chicken fencing for when they are all out at the same time, to create a kind of barrier. Once they are used to each other I hope that will be fine.
What do the hens do for fun?
They use the PoleTree in the run all the time, when I come out in the morning they are already on there. They haven’t reached the highest perches yet, but they’re slowly climbing up.
So far, they haven’t been too bothered about the Freestanding Perch Tree. We have it out in the backyard, and I think they are just too busy exploring everything else when they are free ranging that they don’t want to perch. But once it’s not quite as much of a novelty it’ll be nice for them to have somewhere to perch outside the run as well.
What else has happened since we last spoke?
Their feathers are getting a lot healthier, you can really tell a difference from when we rehomed them. One of the hens has got more or less a full plumage with really shiny feathers, and she was the one that looked the worst to start with.
We’re still getting 3-5 eggs every day, so we’ve had to start giving them away to friends and family. We’re super popular guests now!
I also gave them some strawberries from the vegetable patch the other day, and they absolutely loved it – they were going crazy!
Any problems?
Not really a problem, but we live in quite a rural area and the neighborhood cats have definitely sniffed out the hens. We can see them sitting on the fence looking at the chickens when they are out in the garden, and there was a red kite circling over them the other day as well. I don’t know if they would actually go for them, but I’m glad they are in the Walk in Run when we’re not there though, so I know they are safe.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Holly Callahan-Kasmala is a freelance writer and livestock historian. Chrisie DiCarlo is a retired veterinary technician and veterinary trauma nurse. Together, they have over 26 years of combined chicken care experience. They are the creators and cohosts of Coffee with the Chicken Ladies Podcast.
Summer is fast approaching and hot weather with it. This is the time of year that we get to enjoy garden fresh flowers and produce, but it also means protecting our flocks from overheating. This summer will mark our combined 28th year of chicken care in the hot and humid mid-atlantic. So, we’re going to share our top tips for tried and true ways to help keep your flock cool. Make sure you read to the end for our favorite summer snacks and treats.
The first and most important thing you want to provide for your flock is shade. A shady spot lets your chickens escape the hot sun. Direct sunlight can make temperatures feel as much as 10-15 degrees higher. Your flock’s water sources should also be kept in shade. All water containers, especially enclosed ones, will capture and hold heat from the sun. We keep extra ice on hand and liberally add ice to the chickens’ drinking water during the hottest days.
Trees are a great source of natural shade, but you can also provide human made shady spots. Hang sun shades made from sailcloth, canvas, even light colored natural fabrics that can help deflect the sun’s rays and create shadowy spots. Don’t forget to utilize the space beneath your chicken coops. Omlet coops that sit on stands create a great space for your chickens to go under for water and cool dirt.
Coops can get pretty hot during this time of year. Shade helps, but there are some other things you can do to bring down the temperature in your coops. We’re big advocates for careful use of fans with small grids (small enough that feet and beaks cannot fit in.) You can use either electric or battery powered, but our favorites are the battery powered fans. You can buy them with rechargeable batteries, and not have to worry about cords and power loss to the coops. We turn them on in the evenings and they help pull air through the coops. In our Eglu Cubes Chicken Coops, we simply zip tie a small battery powered fan to the inside of the back vent and let it create a cross breeze.
Ice packs, both store bought and homemade, are another great tool to utilize against heat stress. They’re very easy to make, simply wash and fill various sizes of plastic water or juice bottles with clean water and pop them into your freezer until they’re solid. You can use the frozen bottles in your run, or you can put one in a shallow pool or bowl and let your chickens wade in to cool off their feet. At night, a large bottle or ice pack can be wrapped up (to keep them clean) and placed into your coop. This is especially beneficial in Omlet coops – they’re so well insulated that an ice pack will substantially bring down the temperature in the coop. This is a life saver here in Maryland where it’s sometimes still 80F+ degrees when we’re closing up for the night.
With a normal body temperature of about 105F degrees, chickens really appreciate snacks and feed that are cooling and hydrating. The simplest thing that you can do is place some of their regular ration in a resealable bag and pop it into the refrigerator or freezer for a few hours. You can also go the extra mile – make a mash by adding water to your chicken’s feed, stirring in berries or other cut up fruit, and freezing it in a silicone mold. Your birds will love you for serving them this fancy treat. Recipe below!
There are several other foods that you can either buy or grow to treat yourself and your chickens, too. Melons of almost every type are about 90% water and contain lots of electrolytes as well as other nutrients. This is also some evidence that lycopene, an antioxidant found in watermelon, cantaloupe, and some other melons, can help reduce the risk of heat stress in poultry.
Chickens can eat almost every part of a melon. Everything from the seeds to most of the rind is edible. We like to cut chilled melon for ourselves, and leave a bit on the rind for the chickens. They love it!
Cucumber is also a wonderful, juicy summer treat for your poultry. You can cut it into pieces or feed it whole, with or without skin. If you do peel the cucumber, compost the pieces so that none of your flock get them stuck in their crop. Our chickens especially enjoy cucumber when it’s been chilled for a while.
You can make your flock a fruit salad for an afternoon snack. Line a small dish with some crisp, cool iceberg lettuce, and layer on some berries, cut up grapes (whole grapes can be a choking hazard,) diced apples and pears, and top with a few baby greens from your garden. You can also forage some young dandelion greens if you don’t have anything else nearby. Our exact recipe is below.
Heat stress is a very real danger for chickens and other poultry. With some planning, you can help your flock get through the worst of the summer weather. A combination of shade, cool water, ice, and some hydrating snacks can help keep the summer season fun for you and your birds.
Frozen Berry and Crumble Molds
2 cups of your flock’s regular crumble feed (pellets work but need to soak longer and may need more water)
2-3 cups of water or more, as needed
1 cored and cut up apple
1 cup of berries (we used a mix of whatever we have on hand)
In a medium sized bowl, mix the feed and water together and allow to sit for at least 5 minutes. You want the mash to be wet but not too sloppy.
Mix the fruit pieces into the mash and spoon it into silicone baking molds. You can use muffin tins or other molds but it’s easiest to get the finished product out of silicone.
Place molds in the freezer for about 30 minutes. When you’re ready to serve, pop the crumble out of your mold and serve on a plate or dish. Watch your happy chickens enjoy!
Iceberg Salad for the Birds
1 head of iceberg or other crisphead lettuce, washed
1 handful of grapes, cut into quarters
1 handful of berries, any kind
1 cup of melon pieces and/or leftover melon rind and seeds/strings
1 small handful of baby greens or sprouts
1 dollop of unsweetened yogurt (optional)
Find a chicken-safe platter or shallow bowl. Pull the lettuce into big pieces and line the dish with them. Place the melon pieces and any rind on top of the lettuce. Scatter the grapes and berries around the platter and top with the greens. If you want to gild the lily, you can dollop a small amount of unsweetened yogurt on top. Serve this treat to your flock on a hot afternoon and watch them dig in!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Caramel Quin and her children keep backyard hens in east London. This is their diary of introducing ex-battery hens to their older girl.
We started out with two hens and an Eglu Cube. A friend who had kept chickens for eight years needed her garden back and we’d been thinking about hen keeping, so she kindly passed them on to us. We named them Buffy and Britney (I make no apologies for brainwashing my tween kids to love late nineties pop culture).
That was just over a year ago. Buffy’s still going strong, Britney only lasted a few months. By then, we loved the girls and were already on the waiting list to collect ex-battery rescue hens from the British Hen Welfare Trust. We went as soon as possible: Buffy needed more chickens for company, or at least we did.
We drove to a nearby rehoming day and collected six birds, bringing them home in a couple of cardboard boxes. They looked sorry for themselves, skeletal, anemic. Their crests were pale and floppy. The dog, shut inside the house, pressed himself against the glass door and salivated like a cartoon hungry dog, even though they didn’t have much meat on them. The hen with fewest feathers was nicknamed Necky and looked more dinosaur than bird. The boldest was nicknamed Dora the Explorer as she sought out every nook and cranny in the garden.
A garden! It was hard to imagine that these birds had never been outdoors before. Everything was new as they exhibited natural behaviors for the first time, like scratching and pecking at the soil for bugs. We let them explore while Buffy looked on from the chicken run. Then we swapped them, and they ate while she was free range. Later we put them together in the run and watched excited as the first made it to the top of the ladder and found the Eglu.
On the first night, they didn’t all find their way upstairs to bed. A couple roosted under the Eglu Cube, so I went into the run and put them in by hand in the night. From then on, they knew where home was and made it into bed before the Autodoor closed to keep them warm and safe.
We gave them plenty of free-range time. We also doubled up on feeders and drinkers, so nobody got bullied away from dinner. The hanging feeder proved best because all seven birds could get around it at once. I swapped layers pellets for smaller layers mash for a couple of weeks because the birds were used to smaller food when they were commercially laying.
On their second day we found eggs laid randomly all over the garden, cutest was the one in the hollow of a dust bath. But within a week they had all figured out where the nest box was. Having never had more than two eggs in a day, it was a thrill to get five or six (and on one remarkable day, seven). Ex-battery hens tend to be good layers, they were bred for it after all.
On day two, I remember them freaking out when it rained: they had never experienced these tiny water bullets from the sky. Then there was a brilliant moment when I threw a handful of cherry tomatoes into the run and they dived away as if I’d lobbed a grenade into the trenches.
Bullying wasn’t as bad as I’d feared though. Buffy was outnumbered 6:1 by the newly named Willow, Betty, Mercury, Dora, Chirpy da Hen and Mango Buckbeak. (Listed in order of the age of the family member who named them… youngest last, as you can tell.) We added colored rings on their ankles early, before it was hard to tell them apart as their feathers grew back, though the feathers came in slowly because we adopted them in April. Apparently if you adopt in the winter, they get feathers faster because they need them for warmth.
Chirpy and Mango were the least feathered and most picked on, sometimes bullied away from food, but we gave them plenty of free range time so the bigger ones got out in the garden while the smaller ones ate. Gradually the bullying pecks gave way to polite pecks between all the girls, preening each other after a dust bath and freeing new feathers from their protective sheaths.
Seven months on, we still have Buffy and four of the new girls. Willow and Mercury didn’t make it: one died suddenly the other was unwell for a few days first. But we’ve also nursed others back to health: my signature banana porridge is now famous for bringing ill chickens back from death’s door.*
The star of the show is Chirpy da Hen, who I swear will live longest. She might outlive me. She gave us a scare a few months ago with a backside protrusion of epic proportions. We cleaned and examined it and were convinced it was a tumor not just a prolapse. We separated her in a pet crate so her sore bum wouldn’t get pecked by the others. We fed her banana porridge and gave her painkillers. Over a week, her bad butt gradually improved until we could miraculously pop it back in again and reintegrate her with the others. She’s fine now. No, she’s more than fine. She’s badass.
BHWT is careful to manage expectations: the lifespan of ex-batts is hard to predict. Instead, they say “your hen has at least experienced kindness outside of the commercial system which is more than she could have ever hoped for”. If you think pets are a good way for children to learn about mortality, try ex-battery hens. They’re fun, their eggs are yummy and it’s easy to feel positive about the good life you give them, no matter how long or short it is.
Ours have a great life with free range time every day. They eat well, even jump up to eat roses and fuchsias from the bushes and I don’t mind. The dog is used to them now and can go out at the same time without him acting like a cartoon hungry dog.
My luxury is upgrading to a Walk-in run with rain cover, which is as much for me as it is for the birds. I got it mostly so I can muck out the run without kneeling down. It also gives the girls plenty of space and lets the children and guests visit them any time.
We’ve gone full circle as Buffy is going through her first hard molt, she’s half bald in cold weather, while the ex-batts are nearly fully feathered. Next year we’ll probably add more ex-batts to our brood. I guess we initially got them thinking of the eggs but now it’s more than that: they’re part of the family… who just happen to lay delicious eggs.
For more information on battery hens and maybe opening up your home to some check out the ‘British Hen Welfare Trust’ for upcoming rehoming dates.
*We recommend only feeding your chickens treats occasionally. Always make their food outside of your kitchen to avoid cross contamination of food.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Social Media Executive Rosie has been at Omlet for a year, and when she was asked by her managers if she was interested in broadening her chicken knowledge (and creating fun content for Omlet’s social media platforms) with her very own flock, she said yes straight away.
Since we last spoke to Rosie a few weeks ago, she has rescued 5 ex-caged hens that now live in her backyard in their very own Eglu Cube chicken coop. We caught up with Rosie to see what the first few days as a chicken keeper has been like.
Why did you decide to rescue in the end?
We went to see some breeders, but none of them had any Buff Orpingtons available, which are one of Max’s favorite breeds. He’s always been keen on the idea of rescuing though, so one evening I went on BHWT’s website and realized there was an adoption pickup in the next village that same weekend. It seemed like a sign.
Now I’m really happy that we did, it adds another level seeing them be so happy when they’ve had a rubbish start to their lives.
What was the experience of picking them up?
It was all very well organized and efficient! I received an email telling us where and when to collect the hens, and the volunteers were super kind and helpful when we got there too.
We had originally reserved four hens, but they had a few extras, and we couldn’t resist taking one more home with us! We knew these particular rescue hens were ex-caged hens, but I actually expected them to look way worse than they did. Three of them are in a pretty bad state in terms of feathers, and one has a bit of a wonky beak, but they all seem relatively healthy. I can’t wait to see their transformation in a few months!
While I put the hens in the dog crate we had brought and got them in the car Max got talking to the volunteers. They do the full rehoming process in one day to minimize the stress for the poor hens. Such a crazy thought they were in cages that same morning, and now we were taking them home to our backyard.
What were the first days like?
We put them in the coop for a few hours to get them used to it, then let them out into the run. It was amazing seeing them have all these firsts. We have wood chips in the Walk in Run, but under the coop there’s a bit of grass, and they were absolutely amazed by it. They were pecking and scratching like crazy.
I couldn’t stop watching them explore. We picked them up and put them back in the coop the first night but looking back I’m not sure we would have had to, because on the second night they all climbed back in by themselves when it was bedtime. Fast learners!
There was a bit of squabbling the first days, I could tell they were working on the pecking order. I was prepared for fighting and bullying, but it really wasn’t very bad. The top hen makes sure she gets to eat first, and if someone tries to cut the queue she gives them a peck, but once she’s finished, she’s happy for the others to have their go.
Have they produced any eggs?
Yes, lots. I’ve been giving quite a few to Mum as she’s been baking cakes for my nieces’ birthdays, but there’s still plenty for me and Max. I’m sure I’ll be bringing them into the office soon!
How is your dog finding it?
When we first let her out in the backyard after the hens had moved in she would stand by the run and stare at them and whine – she really wanted to get in and meet them. She leaves them alone when you tell her though, and she’s already losing interest, so I hope they’ll get along.
A funny thing is that when I let her out in the garden unsupervised she doesn’t even go close to the coop. I was watching her from the window and she was just doing her own thing, but as soon as we’re in the backyard with her and give the chickens any attention she suddenly wants to join in. So there’s probably a bit of jealousy there.
The chickens are not scared of her at all though. When she stands by the run they walk straight up to the mesh and look at her.
Any surprises?
I’m a bit surprised by how much I already like them. When I’m working from home I go out and see them a few times every day – they’re definitely time wasters, but in a good way. Everyone at work is saying how much I talk about them already; I’m quickly becoming a crazy chicken lady!
They have got really tame super quickly. To begin with they would run away when we came close, but now they take corn from my hand and let us hold them. I knew Max would love being a chicken keeper, and he’s really enjoying it, but I didn’t think I would get this attached so quickly.
Now they are used to their home I am going to let them out to explore the backyard a bit more, I’m really looking forward to that.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Amy Shore, the lovely lady behind the Instagram account chicksandveg, is a gardener and chicken keeper living in Norfolk. In this blog she is sharing her experience of what it’s like keeping chickens as a gardener, giving you some helpful tips on what you can grow for your chickens, and what you can do to keep them off your prized crops!
My garden just wouldn’t be the same without my chickens. As I shuffle round, their chatter keeps me company and there is something so joyful about seeing them have a dust bath under the hedges or weed my paths! My chickens love helping me out in the vegetable patch but if I left them too it, I wouldn’t have many veg left! So, I’ve tried to design my garden in a way that allows all of us to enjoy it.
Setting up your space
It’s a good idea to have the ability to move your chickens around the garden and shut off areas you don’t want them exploring. I’ve divided my garden into areas, some the chickens are free to explore and others are kept gated. This isn’t possible in every garden but the same can be done using temporary fencing. I’ve used chicken fencing and even expandable trellis to section off areas. It’s a good idea to move your chickens around, giving areas of your garden or lawn a breather and it keeps your chickens busy exploring new spaces.
Despite being mostly able to range freely in my patch, I do have a safe and secure home for them in the form of their Walk in Chicken Run from Omlet. It’s got plenty of room, treats and perches to keep them occupied, and it provides a great space to shut them away if required.
I use raised beds in my vegetable patch which stop my hens nibbling my vegetables but if you want to guarantee your chickens can’t access your precious veg you could look at using tunnels or netting to cover them. I have hoops and netting over some of my seedlings to keep pests out but they also help to keep hungry chickens at bay too!
Growing for chickens
Don’t get me wrong, while I like to make sure my chickens don’t help themselves to everything I’m growing, I do like to treat them every so often! I grow lots of ‘extra’ veg throughout the season and my hens are great at tidying up any plants that are looking past their best.
My favorite thing to grow for my chickens are speedy salads and super quick microgreens. I have a few pots that I dedicate to sowing and growing some tasty treats for the hens. Each week I’ll scatter a few seeds in a pot or shallow tray and some of the speediest microgreens can be growing after only a few days. They finish them off in a few minutes but their happy chirps are so worth it!
Another speedy crop that doesn’t take up too much space is radish! Plus, if you want to keep the root yourself they love the leaves on their own! Speaking of leaves you’ll often find me pulling off and sharing the outer leaves of brassicas and lettuce with my hens. They love chard too which is handy as it thrives in my garden and I’m often overrun!
I don’t just grow vegetables for my hens! They are big fans of sunflowers (aren’t we all). So, once they’ve finished blooming, as well as leaving some for the garden birds, the chickens love nothing more than pecking out all of the seeds. Nasturtiums are another beautiful bloom which I love to have dotted round my garden, they grow well in hanging baskets and draped over the edge of beds. Perfectly placed for hungry chickens and they distract them from my vegetables!
Chickens bring so many benefits to the garden. They are great at pest control for slugs and other critters, they provide manure which when broken down properly can act as a brilliant fertilizer and most of all, they are great company! I’ll always share my garden with my chickens, and I want to make sure they enjoy it as much as I do!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Social Media Executive Rosie has been at Omlet for a year, and when she was asked by her managers if she was interested in broadening her chicken knowledge (and to create fun content for Omlet’s social media platforms) with her very own flock, she said yes straight away.
“My partner Max has always wanted chickens – he was so excited when I got this job as he thought it would make me more keen to keep hens. So when they asked me I knew he would be over the moon, and I was right. But I’m of course also really excited!”
How much research have you done so far?
“I read ‘What the Cluck’, Omlet’s chicken keeping book, which was really helpful. I have obviously picked up some knowledge when working with pet content and seeing the chickens at the office. I also manage Omlet’s Facebook Group for chicken keepers, that’s where you get to hear what it’s really like.”
Rosie and Max decided to go for the top notch backyard chicken setup. They have got an Eglu Cube Chicken Coop with a 6 ft. run connected to a 9 ftx9 ft Walk in Chicken Run, an Automatic Chicken Coop Door and a PoleTree Chicken Perch, plus some covers and other Omlet hentertainment accessories.
“We set it up a few weekends ago, and we didn’t fight once! To be fair, Max did most of it by himself while I painted the fence, and it was really nice and sunny, but despite being quite a lot of products it was pretty fun actually.
Although ‘flockdown’ is now over in the UK and the chickens are allowed to free range we will probably keep them on the run for a bit to get them used to the space and each other.”
Have you decided what chickens you’re getting?
“There’s been a lot of discussion about this, we didn’t completely agree to begin with. But in the end we decided we wanted good layers, and quite big hens rather than bantams, so we went to see someone that breeds Buff Orpingtons, and I think that might be the breed we’ll go for.”
Rosie and Max are not the only ones in the family; they also live with Evie the Sprocker.
“I’m really not sure how she will react, but she’s been very interested in the coop going up. We will slowly try to introduce her to the chickens and hopefully she’ll be alright. She’s quite small, so maybe a big chicken will scare her a bit? We’ll see, but to start with she won’t be allowed into the garden if the chickens are out free ranging.”
What are you most looking forward to about becoming a chicken keeper?
“I really like the thought of having them around in the garden, pottering about. Of course the fresh eggs. My mum is a keen baker, so I’m sure she’ll be happy to have a few! And then I’m just looking forward to seeing Max with them, hopefully it’ll be just like he’s imagined it”.
And is there anything you’re scared of?
“I guess I’m a bit worried they are going to get ill or get some kind of parasites, it’s not nice to see your animals feel bad. But I also know that once you have a pet, making sure they are happy and healthy is not something you see as a problem or a hassle, you just do what you can to look after them in the best possible way.”
We’ll catch up with Rosie again next month when she’s picked up her chickens to hear how they are all getting on!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Miriam Drennan grew up on an organic farm with chickens, guineas, quail, cows, ponies, dogs, and any number of cats. She now lives in an urban neighborhood in Nashville, Tennessee, and works as a freelance writer. She has had her current flock of hens for about two years. Even in an urban setting, she retains the practices her father taught her regarding how to care for the soil, plants, and creatures responsibly. It’s worth mentioning that her two rescue dogs, Anchor and Chance, are not much help around the house, and simply coast through life on their looks and charm. Miriam is also an enthusiastic Omlet ambassador, so if you happen to pass by Tennessee and are interested in any of the products she has – get in contact!
“What’s it like, raising urban chickens?”
I get this question a lot, once people learn that I have hens in my backyard, three miles from downtown Nashville, Tennessee. Thanks to the Omlet system, it’s quite easy.
My set-up is simple and stylish—the Eglu Go Up Chicken Coop and its adjacent Walk in Chicken Run are surrounded by the Omlet chicken fencing. No running water or electricity, but I have found a few hacks when the weather gets extreme.
So—what is it like, raising urban chickens? The timeline will shed a little light on what an average day might look like for me.
7:15 a.m. The sun is just beginning to stir, but not fully awake, which is a good time to refill the feeder with fresh food and replace the water in the drinker. It’s easier to do this before turning them out; I can leave the gate open and wander in and out freely, which comes in handy when you are lugging heavy containers and bags. My girls eat organic food, sprinkled with some herbal supplements to keep their yolks bright yellow and their immune systems healthy.
7:30 a.m. This will be a big morning for them, because they are getting their Free Standing Chicken Perch! Where to place it? Finally, I find a spot and insert the stakes—the rain we had recently helps them go in easy, then I add some dried mealworms to the treat tray that attaches to it.
7:45 a.m. It’s still a bit chilly this morning, so I add another layer of straw on the floor of their yard. They have scratched it bare, which is what chickens do, and the straw keeps their feet from getting too cold. In the summer, I switch to shredded pine mulch.
7:55 a.m. Next, I sprinkle their yard with grit and oyster shell for their gizzards and calcium intake, respectively. Chickens enjoy scratching for treasures, so it doesn’t matter if I leave these in small bowls or sprinkle throughout their yard.
By now, the girls are stirring—they know I’m there, and they’re ready to get out and play. Time to turn the crank . . . and out they come, like big feathered cannonballs shot out of a cannon (who needs steps when you have feathers?). As they fluff and flap, let me introduce them:
- Zuzu: A White Leghorn who looks brown because she likes to drink from mudpuddles. Although Zuzu is the smallest, she is the queen of the flock.
- Daisy: An Easter Egger and friendly, she is the largest in the crew.
- Dixie: An Olive Egger and shy; Dixie is a beautiful bluish-grey hen and her feathers are outlined in darker grey.
- Beaker: A Speckled Sussex and a bit of a rebel. Beaker’s finally getting tiny pops of brilliant green, purple, and blue feathers after this last molting.
8:10 a.m. As expected, Zuzu is the first to approach the perch tree, cocking her head a bit. She realizes this new “thing” in her yard has treats, so she’s good with that. Beaker is next, followed by Daisy. Dixie is shy; she hangs back and eventually, snatches a mealworm and runs back to safety.
I leave them to get acquainted with their new toy.
8:30–9:45 a.m. They sing their egg songs for all the neighborhood to hear. (Thankfully, my neighbors think it’s funny.)
10:00 a.m. Lawn Man has arrived to mow and trim, and as far as the girls are concerned, he is Public Enemy #1. They don’t like his noisy machines and they don’t like him in their yard, even though they are completely enclosed and safe in their Walk-in Run. After running around, trying to figure out where to escape Lawn Man’s motorized beast, they settle for the area underneath their coop. I recently enclosed this section with a few Omlet Heavy Duty Tarps as another place they can use for privacy. They love it. It’s a great little space for dust baths, running from the Scary Evil Snow that falls, or just to gather and cluck. Only Zuzu dares to walk out and challenge Lawn Man, who tips his hat to her and mows on.
12:00 p.m. I have time between work calls to check for eggs. Happy hens are productive hens, and mine lay fairly consistently all year long. I credit the Eglu Go Up for a lot of this, because its insulation and design help maintain a fairly consistent temperature inside the coop. In the winter, I wrap the coop in Omlet’s Extreme Temperature Blanket, and if the temps dip to single digits, I might stick a hot water bottle inside with them—a bit of overkill, perhaps, because the Eglu’s insulation and the hens own body temperatures keep things quite warm inside. Each of mine lay an egg of a different color, which helps me keep up with who is producing and how often.
When I take a peek, I see that they’ve had a busy morning—all four have produced!
2:30 p.m. It’s warming into a nice spring day, so it’s time to clean the coop. Normally, it might take me 15–20 minutes total to clean, but today, I need to give it a really thorough scrub, so it might take about 30 minutes total. I dump the droppings into my composter and head for the outdoor spigot. A drop of the original Dawn dishwashing detergent makes this easy—the actual scrubbing takes less than 15 minutes. I leave the tray and roosting bar in the sun to dry while I wipe out the coop’s interior, which is easy. Zuzu wanders underneath to supervise, and lets me know whether I’ve missed a spot.
I finish drying the trays by hand and add soft pine shavings for a nest. Sliding the trays back in, I open the coop door again, so that each one can hop up the ladder and critique my work. Zuzu makes a point to tear up the nest within minutes after it’s in place—I’m not sure if that’s a compliment, or if she’s demanding a do-over?
4:30 p.m. My neighbor Lisa texts that she has some spinach for the girls. We place the spinach in their Caddi Treat Holder. Their reaction is priceless; to them, Lisa = Spinach, so they’re always excited to see her. We chat and watch them still figuring out their new perch tree.
7:30 p.m. The sun is setting; most of the girls have gone up. All but Beaker. Always Beaker. Why does she linger and wander around?
7:32 p.m. Beaker, aren’t you tired?
7:35 p.m. C’mon Beaker, why do you do me this way?
7:42 p.m. She’s going, going . . . nope, false alarm! She’s back in the yard. And now she’s got Dixie with her.
7:50 p.m. Dixie hops back inside the coop. Beaker, why won’t you do the same?
8:08 p.m. Finally, finally, Beaker turns in. I slink back out to the coop, because I know the slightest noise will bring her right back out. I quietly unhook the fence and turn the crank on the coop’s door.
Good night, ladies, I whisper.
I hear a gentle cluck-cluck-cluck as I’m walking away, telling me to sleep well.
Only now am I aware of hushed laughter, a neighbor’s guitar, and a faraway siren to remind me that yes, my chickens are city girls, and thanks to the Omlet system and accessories, they are safe, happy, and healthy.
That’s what it’s like to raise urban chickens.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Sometimes chickens behave in a strange way, and it’s not always easy to figure out if it’s normal chicken behavior or whether something is wrong. Here are some things your flock might get up to, so you can easily figure out what they are actually up to!
My chicken is rolling around in the flower bed
This is completely normal. Chickens don’t wash themselves with water like you and I, but to get rid of dirt and parasites from their skin and feathers they have dust baths. When doing so, they look for a dry piece of soil or sand. They then lie down and use their wings to flap up the loose dust to let it run between their feathers and “wash” away dirt. It can look a bit strange, almost alarming in some cases, but it’s something they love doing and that is very good for them as well.
My chicken is losing its feathers
Whether or not to worry depends on how your chicken is losing them. All chickens lose their feathers once a year in a process called molting, where they shed old feathers and grow new ones in a way to keep the plumage strong and healthy. This can look quite messy, and you might find that hens stop laying while molting. However, this is completely normal, and you don’t necessarily have to intervene in any way.
If you notice that your chicken is losing feathers but is not molting it could be a sign that something is not right, especially if she has got bald patches on her neck or chest. This could either be that she’s picking her own feathers, or that she is being badly bullied by others in the flock. Both of these things could indicate that your chickens are stressed or bored, often due to lack of space and stimulation. Inspect the flock as they interact with each other and see if you can notice any feather pecking.
If you find that the feather loss is indeed self-inflicted or caused by another hen, try to give the flock more space and something to keep them busy. Maybe a larger Walk In Chicken Run with a super fun PoleTree Chicken Perch Tree? You can find more ideas on how to entertain your flock here.
My chicken won’t leave the nest box
If you’ve got a hen who is refusing to leave the nest box, it’s most likely because she is feeling broody. This happens to hens from time to time (to some breeds more often than others), most likely because a maternal instinct has kicked in and she wants to sit on her eggs until they hatch. To her, it doesn’t matter that they aren’t fertilized and will never result in any chicks – she will stay put regardless.
You will probably struggle to move her from the nest box but put on some gloves and try to get her out to make sure she gets to move around and have some food and water. A hen will most likely snap out of this state after around 21 days, but there are ways to break the broodiness and prevent it happening again. You can read more about it in this previous blog post about broody hens.
My chickens seem to be bullying another hen
Unfortunately this can also be seen as normal chicken behavior. Chickens in a flock need to establish a pecking order to decide who is top hen, and this is often decided through some rather unfriendly pecking and flighting.
If you have just introduced some new chickens or if the flock is new, you will likely see some fighting for a week or so. As long as no one is getting seriously injured, you’re best off staying out of it. If your hens however have been living together for a while and you still find that the other hens are picking on a specific individual you might have to interfere, as this will be stressful for the whole flock.
It’s always best to separate the main bully. Keep her elsewhere for a few days, and then slowly reintroduce her to the flock. In some cases, a rearrangement in the pecking order can solve things.
My chicken is eating its eggs
This is not normal chicken behavior. It’s not necessarily bad for your chickens’ health if they get into the habit of eating their eggs, but not only is it annoying for you to miss out on delicious eggs, it could also be a sign that something is not right.
The cause of this behavior could be that your hens are dehydrated or vitamin deficient, or that they are stressed or anxious. It could also be that they feel the nesting box isn’t safe or comfortable enough. The nesting box in the Eglu Cube Large Chicken Coop is a good example of what chickens like when laying. Its’ dark, deep and private, and up to three hens can nest at the same time.
Keep on top of egg collection and keep an eye on your chickens to make sure they are otherwise happy, and they should hopefully snap out of the habit before too long.
My chicken is panting
Chicken have no sweat glands, so like dogs they drive off body heat by panting. This is normal chicken behavior and just a way for your hens to stay cool, so unless the panting is excessive and you have made sure she has access to shade and plenty of water, it’s not necessarily something to worry about.
That being said, panting can also be a sign of stress or breathing problems, so if it’s not warm outside or your chicken is panting more than you think is normal, you should definitely check for other symptoms, and potentially take her to the vet for a check up.
My chicken has stopped laying
Again, it depends on a few different things, mainly the age of your chicken, the time of year, and your hens’ general health. It’s normal for most chickens to stop laying over the winter, as egg laying is strongly linked to hours of sunlight. They will also stop laying when molting, or if something has interrupted their routine.
Again it’s useful to take a step back and see how your chickens are doing. Carry out a health check to make sure they are not ill or have parasites, check that they are getting enough good quality feed, and make sure there isn’t anything in or around the coop that is making them stressed or anxious.
It should also be said that hens only have a predefined number of eggs in them, so if your hen is getting older it’s completely normal for her production to slow down and eventually stop. This is particularly common for ex-battery hens who have been laying intensely for the first 18 months of her life. You can read more about why chickens might not lay in this blog post.
We hope that was helpful. If you have any other questions about normal chicken behavior, comment below and we will follow up with another post! You will also find lots of other Omlet blog posts that go into more detail about the behavior we’ve mentioned here, so check it out to learn more!
This entry was posted in Chickens
FREE shipping on orders over $100 
15% of your first order 
180-day guarantee