In need of some chicken coop door ideas? Should a chicken coop even have a door? We’ll explore the ins and outs of doors and how they benefit a chicken coop. And, we’ll share how your chicken coop door can act as a sentry against predators, extra insulation in the elements, and even as a babysitter when you aren’t home.
Should a chicken coop have a door?
Your chicken coop should have a door to maintain the safety and comfort of your flock. Chicken coop doors serve two main purposes:
- Protection from predators
- A shield against the elements
Closing the chicken coop door at night is essential to ensure that your hens are as safe as possible against animals that seek to prey on them, and from precipitation or drafts. The ideal time to close your chicken coop door is right after all of your hens have headed off to bed — usually just before nightfall.
The best types of chicken coop doors
There are a few options when it comes to choosing a chicken coop door, and they are largely dependent on the type of chicken coop you have.
Traditional doors
Traditional chicken coop doors are either full-size doors for keepers to walk through, or a smaller version of a wooden door on hinges just large enough for hens to walk through. The problem with these is that wood warps and shifts over time, making them more and more difficult to open and close over time. Gaps along a chicken coop door are dangerous — drafts or predators can slip through any openings that result from shifting or settling doors. Plus, wooden chicken coop doors can’t be attached to just any coop material.
Automatic doors
An automatic chicken coop door is made of easy-to-clean plastic that won’t shift or warp in the elements. It opens the same, smooth way each and every time, and in any weather. Omlet’s Autodoor can be installed on any material: wood, wire, or directly onto the Eglu Cube chicken coop.
In addition to standing the test of time, the Autodoor can be programmed to open and close on a schedule based on the sun or the clock, making it a coop concierge for your flock.
Light-sensing automatic chicken coop doors with Omlet
The Autodoor by Omlet is a sophisticated light-sensing automatic chicken coop door that can be programmed to open and close on a schedule of your choosing. Some standout features of our Autodoor include:
- Light sensor for customized open and close times
- Time setting to set a schedule based on the clock
- Reliability in all weather conditions
- Horizontal opening mechanism for hen safety
- Extra coop security against predators
- Can be installed on any coop or run
- Integrates seamlessly with the Eglu Cube
Chicken keepers love the Autodoor because of its versatility, functionality, and performance. Taking control of your flock’s schedule and having it enforced even while you’re away takes your chicken keeping to a whole new level. The Autodoor’s light setting really shines during the winter months — your hens can be closed in before the sun is finished setting, and stay warm and comfortable in their coop until there is plenty of sunshine the following morning. You and your hens can both sleep in during the coldest hours of the morning, knowing the Autodoor has made winter chicken keeping easier than ever.
Easy steps to install a chicken coop door
The Autodoor is easy to install on any existing setup. Just choose the fixings pack that corresponds to your coop when you purchase your Autodoor, and you’ll have everything you need for installation when it arrives. Choose from wood or wire for your fixings pack, and follow the detailed instructions for installing your Autodoor. If you have an Eglu Cube chicken coop, no additional fixings need to be purchased — you can install the Autodoor right out of the box.
Once installed, the control pad makes programming your schedule quick and easy. If you choose to use the light setting, the amount of daylight can be selected on the Autodoor for both open and close times, and custom delay open and close times can be adjusted. This would give your hens a buffer for the weather to warm up, or for storms to clear if the light sensor hasn’t been able to receive its programmed amount of light.
Should I make a chicken coop door?
Making a chicken coop door is an option, but significant attention to detail and considerations need to be taken into account. Chickens have fragile legs that can be caught easily in doors, and materials like wood will rot and warp over time, making a path for crafts or predators to penetrate the coop. You’ll also need to manually open, close, and secure your DIY chicken coop door each day to ensure safety, which means trudging out in harsh weather or going out in the dark when you’re home late.
Choosing an Autodoor is a one-step solution to your flock’s security and comfort. You won’t worry about safety or functionality, and with the added ability to automate your flock’s schedule, you can rest assured that your hens are being cared for — while you enjoy the comfort of your own bed.
Pet care with Omlet
Omlet makes keeping your hens easy and enjoyable. We take the guesswork out of caring for your flock, because we’ve asked both the obvious and the unexpected questions when it comes to creating the ideal chicken setup. Our chicken runs, chicken tractors, and hen houses are all designed to accommodate both you and your flock for an unparalleled chicken-keeping experience.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chicken nesting boxes come in so many shapes, sizes, and materials that it can be hard to decide which type will be best for your flock or coop. Hens need sturdy, safe, and secluded areas to lay their eggs comfortably, and choosing the right nesting box will help achieve this setting. We’ve created the ultimate chicken nesting box guide so that you can maximize your flock’s egg-laying experience while reducing your workload.
What are chicken nesting boxes?
Chickens will instinctively lay their eggs in what they perceive is the safest place to make their nest. Multiple hens will use the same nesting area, trusting the judgement of the first hen who chose the spot. The majority of hens feel most at ease in an elevated station to lay their eggs, but will also seek a dark and secluded area at ground level.
Providing egg-laying hens a comfortable nesting box is an essential role in chicken-keeping. Without a nesting box, hens will become nervous as they prepare for the arrival of an egg, and various negative behaviors or outcomes can sprout as a result of not having a safe nesting area. These include:
- Hens eating their eggs, because they don’t feel like their nest is safe
- Random eggs littered around the run can attract rodents or predators, and encourage flock egg-eating
- Stressed hens with missing feathers, poor appetite, or dull appearance
- A decrease in egg production
Young hens can start laying eggs as early as 16 weeks old, so it’s important that your chicken coop has appropriate nesting boxes from the time you move your pullets in.
Chicken coop nesting box problems
If your flock’s nesting area is not in the right place, or is unable to maintain ideal conditions, your hens will abandon using them. Here are some common problems with nesting boxes.
Placement
One of the main reasons a chicken is not using their nesting box is because of poor placement. Nesting boxes are best utilized when they are part of the coop and not out in the run. They should be in a designated, secluded area where hens neither sleep nor frequent for any other reason than to lay their eggs.
Accessibility
Another key design feature of a nesting box is accessibility – for both you and your chickens. Hens should be able to easily access nesting areas. Nesting boxes should be between 1-3 feet off of the ground, and have a comfortable ramp or ladder leading up to them. The path to the nesting boxes should be kept free of obstructions, and not in an awkward position of the run that has you bending down or squeezing in to collect eggs. If hens can’t easily access their nesting boxes, you’ll find your chicken hiding eggs around the run. It might sound like fun to have an Easter egg hunt every day, but this method of nesting is stressful for hens and can easily lead to unwanted long-term behaviors like egg eating or refusal to use even an accommodating nesting box.
Comfort level
Chickens not laying eggs may be the direct result of them not feeling comfortable in their nesting box. If the nesting box is well placed, and can be accessed easily, but your hens are still not laying their eggs in it, it’s time to consider the comfort of the nesting box. For optimum comfort, make sure your hens’ nesting box:
- Isn’t in a high-traffic area
- Doesn’t receive direct sunlight
- Has low noise levels
- Is well ventilated
- Maintains its cleanliness
Chickens shouldn’t sleep in their nesting boxes, so bedding doesn’t need to be changed as frequently as the rest of the coop. Depending on your bedding of choice and the number of hens you have, the nesting box can be refreshed every 2-4 weeks.
Inappropriate bedding
There are many different choices for bedding in a nesting box, but hens feel best making a nest in loose, fluffy bedding like shavings or straw. Avoid using faux turf pads, kennel liners, or rubber mats in nesting boxes, as these feel unnatural and don’t offer much padding for the eggs being laid. Aspen fiber nesting pads can be fluffed up to make an acceptable nest, and are a good alternative option for chicken keepers wanting to use removable substrate in their nesting boxes.
How many nesting boxes are needed per chicken?
Four hens can happily share one nesting box, but five may become a crowd. Some larger flocks share one nesting box just fine, but it’s largely dependent on your hens’ personalities and laying frequency between chicken breeds. And, any nesting areas need to be large enough for your hens to stand up, turn around, and avoid crushing eggs, while being small enough to feel cozy and secure.
While the term “nesting box” implies a square shape, you can think outside the box when it comes to nesting areas. Oblong nesting areas are a great alternative to traditional boxes, as they give hens more space to fluff their bedding and settle themselves into whatever position is most comfortable for them. Omlet’s chicken coops come in a variety of sizes, all with integrated nesting areas to accommodate any size flock or hen. The Eglu Cube in particular is a favorite among flock-keepers for its elevated structure, dedicated nesting-area door, and sliding partition between the roosting and laying areas. The spacious nesting area allows for 2 hens to lay at time when schedules overlap, and gives your hens options of where to lay their eggs within the space.
There are many different types of chicken nesting boxes. Some are DIY projects, while others are commercially made from metal or other materials. Some are anchored to the coop, while others may pull out or be removed for cleaning. There are pros and cons to each type of construction, but as most chicken keepers would agree, integrated nesting boxes that are easy to access and clean are the best type of nesting areas.
Wooden nesting boxes
Wooden nesting boxes get the job done, but are notorious for harboring bacteria, mildew, and mites. Because wood is porous, wooden nesting boxes are difficult to keep clean or sanitize thoroughly. They’re relatively inexpensive to make, but can easily be made too heavy to mount to a chicken coop. Because of this, they often require their own support like legs or even a table to be mounted to – something that most backyard flock raisers don’t have room for. Those opting to buy rather than make a wooden nesting box should note that they are usually made from flimsy, cheap materials that will break down quickly.
Pros:
- Inexpensive to construct or obtain
Cons:
- Absorb moisture and bacteria, and house mites
- Heavy, cumbersome, and impractical for most flock raisers
- Commercially made versions are cheap and flimsy
Metal nesting boxes
When thinking about nesting boxes, most people conjure up the image of traditional chicken nesting boxes made of metal. These structures can have anywhere from 1-10+ “holes” that lead into a nesting box. They stack in rows, which takes up less space, but may become too tall for some hens to reach the top row. Metal outlasts wood, but still succumbs to the elements – especially in hot, humid areas. Rust is common in metal nesting boxes, and the boxes themselves can become very hot and stuffy.
Pros:
- Longer lasting than wood
- Easier to clean than wood
Cons:
- Rusts over time
- Can easily become too hot for hens
- Expensive
DIY nesting boxes
This inexpensive option can get the job done, but should only be used for supplemental or temporary nesting areas. DIY nesting boxes can be made from repurposed milk crates, storage bins, or 5-gallon buckets turned on their side. These materials are difficult to place and anchor in ideal locations. They also require alterations to make them safe, which may cost more than the project is worth.
Pros:
- Inexpensive
- Readily available
Cons:
- Flimsy
- Uncomfortable
- Potentially dangerous without modifications
Plastic nesting boxes
The best material for nesting boxes is plastic. This non-porous material is easy to clean and outlasts other types of nesting boxes. It wards also off parasites and prevents moisture buildup. While plastic nesting boxes might not be as popular as other types, their long-term value makes them well worth it.
Pros:
- Long-lasting
- Easy to clean
- Free of parasites
Cons:
- Not as readily available as other options
- More expensive to obtain
The best of both worlds: integrated plastic nesting boxes
Thankfully, there’s an all-in-one option with modern hen houses. Omlet’s plastic chicken coops all have integrated nesting boxes and roosting bars for a convenient and comfortable interior. The nesting area is part of the removable tray, which can be pressure washed and refreshed in minutes.
Creating the ideal chicken nesting box with Omlet
With Omlet, making and maintaining the ideal nesting area is fun and easy. Your hens will feel safe and secure in the elevated and spacious Eglu Cube and its integrated nesting area. This large chicken coop even has a dedicated nesting box door to collect eggs without disturbing the rest of the coop.
With happy hens, you’ll have lots of eggs to gather, giving your family a fresh egg supply. Not only will a clean and tidy nesting box make your hens feel comfortable, but you’ll also have the unique satisfaction that comes from collecting a still-warm egg from the nesting area.
Chicken care with Omlet
Keeping your hens happy isn’t just limited to providing the ideal nesting area. At Omlet, we have chicken-keeping essentials for every area of flock raising. From enriching chicken toys and accessories to technology like automatic chicken coop doors that make your schedule simpler and your flock safer, you can have confidence that your chickens are happy in their coop.
This entry was posted in Chickens
It’s always heartbreaking to experience loss in your flock, but it can be particularly traumatic to lose a hen to a chicken predator attack. Knowing how to tell which predator killed your chicken will help stave off future attempts at the rest of your flock though. As prey animals, chickens are vulnerable to a number of predators, but fortunately, there are ways that flock-raisers can keep their hens safe from these coop criminals.
Chickens and predators
Chickens are vulnerable animals for many reasons. They draw attention to themselves through their series of noises, their eggs are delicacy to many predators, and hens are not adequately equipped to defend themselves. Chicken predators can be anything from wild animals like hawks, foxes, raccoons or snakes, to neighborhood dogs and cats. Being vigilant against predators of all species is the best way to keep your flock protected.
Signs of predators
Identifying the signs of chicken predators can help prevent their presence around your chickens’ area. If you can determine the type of predator that’s threatening your flock, you can take the appropriate actions to thwart their efforts. Some predators leave a “calling card” by which you can identify them, while other signs may be more inconclusive. While it’s possible that some predators might leave little to no trace of their attempts, there’s almost always evidence of foul play when a chicken goes missing or turns up injured – or worse.
Are eggs missing?
Many predators are more interested in your hens’ eggs over the meat on their bodies. Predators that are infamous for nest raiding include:
- Rats
- Snakes
- Possums
- Weasels
It’s possible for other predators to swipe eggs and leave your flock alone, but more often than not, larger or more aggressive predators will go after chickens and their eggs at the same time.
Look for traces of broken egg shells or damp areas in the nesting area that would indicate eggs have been broken. Mammals that break into the nesting box will usually enjoy their meal right there, leaving evidence behind. They may also crush other eggs in the process. Snakes on the other hand will leave no trace, as they ingest the egg whole. Evidence of a snake raiding the nest is little to none – eggs will simply be gone.
Did the attack occur during the day or at night?
Most chicken predators operate under the cover of darkness, but some predators are brazen enough to strike during the day. These include:
- Hawks and eagles
- Snakes
- Dogs and cats
Large birds of prey (with the exception of owls) are most active during the day. And, since snakes are cold-blooded, they will rely on the sun to dictate their daily schedule – making them more active during the afternoon hours. Dogs and cats can be a problem at any hour, but as most domesticated pets follow the schedule of their owners, daytime hours are usually their most active times.
The remaining chicken predators are either nocturnal, or most active at dawn and dusk. These include:
Are there visible signs of forced entry?
The type of damage that the ground, the run, or the coop sustains can give you clues as to what was trying to get to your flock. If the roof of the run or coop is indented, it may point to heavier predators like:
Teeth and claw marks may also be visible on the coop with these predators.
Observe the ground around your coop and run for footprints. Smartphone apps or a quick online search can help you identify what type of animal tracks were left behind. If you see evidence of digging or an attempt to tunnel into the run, you may be dealing with:
- Coyotes or domesticated dogs
- Weasels
- Foxes
- Skunks
How many chickens were involved?
If the predator was successful in getting to your flock, take note of how many birds were injured, killed, or have turned up missing. Large numbers of affected hens usually point to larger, more ambitious predators. And, as unpleasant as assessing a chicken predator crime scene may be, it’s also important to note the types of injuries or the location of the affected hens. Most chicken predators will take their prey with them, but a few will leave carcasses behind. These include:
- Raccoons (especially if they reached through the run)
- Owls
- Rats
- Snakes
- Domesticated dogs
What are the visible causes of death or injuries?
Deceased hens with a wet head or neck likely fell prey to rat snakes that use constriction much like pythons to kill their prey. They can’t fit a full-grown hen inside their mouths – but it’s not for the lack of trying. Hen carcasses that are missing heads or sections of their necks are trademark signs of owls and raccoons. Rats will dole out multiple bite wounds on a hen, and may leave just gnaw marks or missing sections of flesh once the hen is deceased.
Finally, many dogs kill for sport – it’s part of their nature. “Prey drive” is a common attribute of many breeds of dogs, and often once the chase is over, they are no longer interested in their intended prey. Chickens killed by dogs will usually be found with no visible injuries.
How to prevent predator attacks
Chicken predators are something that all chicken keepers will have to address at some point in their journey. Both urban and rural flocks are at risk, and all chicken keepers should be vigilant about keeping them safe. Thankfully, Omlet’s modern chicken coops and runs are mindful of this need, and are designed to keep chickens safe from a variety of threats.
A predator-resistant chicken coop like the Eglu Cube should be your first line of defence against chicken predators. This strong chicken coop has features like:
- Locking exterior doors
- Unique coop door opening and closing mechanisms
- Anti-dig skirting and raccoon-resistant mesh along the bottom of the attached run
The Eglu Cube is strong – our customers have reported their Eglu Cubes withstanding attacks from foxes, bobcats, and even full-grown bears.
For added protection, the Autodoor can be added to the Eglu Cube. This automatic chicken coop door keeps your flock even safer at night due to:
- Strong, horizontal opener that operates on a screw-style mechanism making prying it open nearly impossible for predator paws
- The ability to close on a schedule, keeping your hens safely inside during peak predator hours
- Thick, heavy-duty plastic that not only insulates, but serves as a fortress against predator paws and claws
And, for bottom-to-top protection, a strong chicken run will keep your hens safe while they enjoy their time out of their coop. Our Walk In Chicken Run is designed with:
- Heavy-duty welded wire
- Anti-dig skirting
- Roof panels to prevent aerial attacks
Finally, try to collect eggs daily to prevent attracting predators in. Eggs can stay in the coop for weeks, but leaving them for more than a day or two will invite unwanted guests.
Omlet and your flock
Predators don’t have to put a damper on owning chickens. With expertly designed products from Omlet, you’ll get the drop on the bad guys. The prevailing combination of the Eglu Cube, Smart Autodoor and Walk In Chicken Run will help keep your hens fully protected from whatever predators may come their way.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Jeremy Gary lives in Venice, Florida. He’s a husband, father to 2 boys, proud chicken owner, and an Omlet Ambassador. Most of his chicken-keeping knowledge came through trial and error, as well as seeking advice from experienced local chicken keepers. Long before becoming an Omlet Ambassador, Gary purchased his first Omlet product. It was an Eglu Cube. And its design transformed the experience of keeping chickens for his family. In Gary’s professional life, he owns and operates a building science consulting business. Knowledge of temperature and moisture dynamics in the hot, humid Florida climate has proven very helpful in keeping chickens. In Gary’s spare time, he enjoys spending time with his family doing outdoor activities – his favorite of which is paddleboarding over to the beach for a few hours before sunset.
As chicken owners, we all want the best for our feathered friends. With a little time and some trial and error, we settle into a routine of chicken care that works for our flock. Everything is going great. The chickens are happy and healthy, and we feel like we really understand the needs of our flock. And then one day, feathers suddenly appear on the ground. At first, there are one or two here and there. And then, a whole bunch of them start to appear. What’s going on? Don’t worry, this is a natural process that all chickens go through called molting. Molting is the natural process of feather replacement in chickens. With a little extra care and attention, we can help our feathered friends through the molting process. Omlet has some thoughtfully designed products that can help promote a clean, safe, and comfortable environment which is critical during this period.
How to spot molting
Let’s talk a little bit about what chicken molting is and how to recognize it. Molting is a normal and beneficial process for chickens that helps them renew their feathers and prepare for the changing of the season. Chickens shed their old feathers and grow new ones. It’s a natural and necessary cycle that helps chickens to maintain both their health and appearance. Feathers are important for chickens because they provide insulation and protection. The molting process allows chickens to replace damaged, worn out, or dirty feathers with fresh, clean, and strong new feathers. Molting usually occurs once a year, but it can vary depending on the breed, age, and environment of the chicken.
All animals go through some type of change as summer gives way to fall in preparation for the change of seasons. Dogs, for example, may shed a summer coat in favor of a winter coat. Wild birds in the northern hemisphere will fly south for the winter. Other animals simply hibernate to wait out the winter until spring returns. For chickens, the seasonal transition often involves the process of molting. Understanding what molting is and why it occurs is important for all chicken owners. Once we understand that it is both normal and natural, we can best help support our flock throughout the process.
The 3 phases of molting
Molting can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, depending on the individual chicken. During the molting process, a chicken’s behavior can change significantly. For example, a chicken may stop laying eggs, reduce their overall activity, or lose their appetite. It isn’t uncommon for chickens to be irritable during molting, or maybe even a little socially reluctant. They may choose to spend more time by themselves away from the rest of the flock. Every chicken will react just a bit differently to the molting process. Just remember that this is a normal, natural occurrence in their lives. But nonetheless, it’s a stressful time for them.
There are 3 basic phases of molting: the pre-molting phase, the molting phase, and the post-molting phase.
Phase one
The first phase is the pre-molting phase. Think of this as the resting period before molting begins. This is where you may notice behavioral changes, such as reduced activity, a smaller appetite, and an end to egg-laying. The purpose of the pre-molting stage is to conserve energy and to prepare for feather replacement. Shedding and replacing feathers requires lots of energy! This pre-molting phase can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.
Phase two
The second phase is the actual molting phase. This is the time when a chicken will begin to lose its feathers. Feather loss will typically occur in a pattern, beginning at the head and neck and then working back toward the tail. During this time, a chicken may look bare and patchy. Throughout the molting process, chickens are often more irritable and may shy away from other birds. Seeing this significant change in behavior can be very stressful to a chicken owner if you don’t understand exactly what is causing it and why it is occurring.
Phase three
The third and final phase of the molting process is the post-molting phase, or the regrowth phase. New feathers will start to grow in from follicles where the old feathers fell out. The new feathers are often referred to as pin feathers and can look like little thin spikes with a waxy coating. New-growth feathers are sensitive and can be easily damaged. You may notice that your chicken is preening more than usual as they work to remove the wax coating and fluff up their new feathers. After a few weeks, the new feather growth will be complete, and your chicken will regain its normal appearance. Physical activity and social interaction with the flock return to normal, as will egg laying.
Helping your hens through their molt
During the molting process, proper nutrition is essential to helping your chickens to grow healthy, new feathers. Replacing feathers is a high-energy activity! A diet with lots of protein is key. A feed with high-protein content can be helpful. Many chicken owners will substitute additional protein during the molting period in the form of high-protein treats. Mealworms and soldier fly larvae are excellent sources of protein that your flock will love. Always make sure your flock has access to clean, fresh drinking water. This is important every day, but especially during molting.
While chickens are going through the molting process, there are a few simple things that chicken owners can do to help them through this stressful time.
- Avoid disturbing chickens unnecessarily during the molting period. Molting can make chickens more sensitive and irritable than normal. Handle your chickens gently during this time. And be extra patient and understanding if they want a little alone time.
- Keep your chickens safe and comfortable. Molting can make chickens more vulnerable to heat, cold, rain and snow, as well as to predators. Adequate shelter and protection from the elements and potential threats can be a big help.
- A high-protein diet to support feather growth is essential. You can supplement their feed with treats such as mealworms, soldier fly larvae or sunflower seeds.
- Clean, fresh water is essential for hydration during molting. And a clean coop will prevent parasites and infections, which can worsen molting or cause infections during this vulnerable time.
Omlet and your flock’s molt
And here is where the Omlet family of products can play a vital role in supporting your flock during the molting process by providing safety and comfort. The unique construction of the Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop lends itself to clean coop keeping, with its unique and easy-to-clean plastic design. The durable construction keeps chickens safe from predators during the vulnerable molting period. And finally, comfort. The Eglu Cube is designed with chicken comfort in mind – everything from ventilation to superior insulation.
Molting in your state
Depending on where you live, the needs of your chickens during the molting period may be different. For example, if you live in an environment that may have cold temperatures during the molting period, you may want to provide a little extra warmth to help with some of the exposed areas of the chicken’s body.
We live in SW Florida, so cold isn’t a problem in the fall. In fact, it is the opposite – heat and humidity can still be an issue. Even in October! We have a very hot and humid summer that seems to last forever. Molting will often begin just as the stress of making it through a long summer is winding down for the chickens. To help them through, we always provide plenty of shade and icy treats. Things like ice cubes in their water or frozen watermelon to snack on. For protein-rich snacks, our flock loves soldier fly larvae.
By understanding what the molting process is, you can provide great care and support for your flock to help them through this stressful time. By providing your flock with a few key things like a protein-rich diet and a safe, clean, and comfortable shelter, your chickens will emerge from the molting process with a brand-new set of feathers to last them all year long. Oh, I almost forgot to mention the most important thing of all to help your flock through molting – an extra-large portion of chicken-owner love!
Omlet has a great line of products that can serve your flock during the molting process but throughout the entire chicken-raising process. They have truly unique and well-designed products that have transformed our chicken-keeping experience. Before becoming an Omlet Ambassador, I was the proud owner of several of their products. I encourage you to reach out to Omlet to learn more about how their family of products can help transform your chicken-keeping experience as it did for our family.
Our Eglu Cube even survived a Category 4 hurricane. But that’s a story for another blog post.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Hey y’all! My name is Alyssa Holland, and I live on a small hobby farm in north-central Texas. We have all kinds of animals on our farm: horses, goats, a miniature pig, rabbits, guinea pigs, dogs, cats, fish, and of course — chickens! We have around 25 chickens currently, and tend a mixed flock of many different breeds. Most recently, we’ve added a rescue pigeon to our flock that thinks she’s a chicken!
Welcome back to my fall flock-raising adventure! My group of six chicks are thriving in the cool(ish) temperatures, and they’re growing like weeds. Their personalities are starting to shine, and preparations for their future accommodations are being made. See what we’ve been up to, and what I’m expecting throughout the rest of the fall season.
How they’re growing
Y’all, chicks grow fast! And, since I started with older chicks, time has flown. Both breeds were fully feathered around 6 weeks old and are growing at the same rate — which has made brooding them together a breeze!
The chicks are around 7-8 weeks old now. The Silver Laced Wyandottes are beginning to show their gorgeous coloring, and the barred pattern of the Plymouth Rocks are on full display. I removed their brooder plate last week once they were fully feathered. I usually keep a heat source in with my chicks until they are closer to 8 weeks old, but since the weather is still very warm during the day (high 80s to mid 90s) and has not been dipping below 75 degrees at night, I went ahead and removed their heat.
We hopefully have all pullets from this batch! I rolled the dice a bit by getting the Silver Laced Wyandottes — they were straight runs that had outgrown their pen. Our Tractor Supply store was kind enough to let me hand pick my own chicks, so I compared feathers and combs and selected what I hoped were 3 females, but only time will tell. The Plymouth Rocks were pullets, but earlier this year I purchased two Plymouth Rock pullets, and we now have a beautiful Plymouth Rock rooster! It was a good reminder that unless a breed is a sex link (can be sexed at the time of hatching by feather patterns or color), mistakes can happen. Thankfully, our property isn’t subject to animal restrictions, so we are able to keep roosters, so long as they live peaceably with the rest of the flock (and don’t chase my children!).
Future flockmates
Normally I don’t count my chickens — before or after they hatch! Chicken math gets me every time. So instead of counting my birds and measuring the square footage of our coops and runs, I measure our “chicken saturation” by their health and happiness. If everyone is thriving, it’s a stable and sustainable flock!
We have two setups: one is a very large chicken coop and run that my husband built shortly after we moved in over 5 years ago, and the other is an Omlet Eglu Cube with an attached 6×9 ft Omlet walk in chicken run. Our homemade setup houses around 18 hens and 2 roosters, with another 4 hens and 1 rooster calling the Eglu Cube home. The chicks I’m currently raising will be placed in the flock that best matches their personalities, with some consideration given to space requirements. I try to keep my smaller or more docile hens in the Eglu Cube setup partly because of the size, but also because it’s easier for my kids to access both the eggs and the run to play with their favorite hens! We try not to play favorites, but every flock inevitably has favorites that steal the hearts of their keepers.
It’s hard to determine where chicks will fall in the pecking order, but usually, newly introduced chicks will be toward the bottom of the hierarchy. Since my chickens are kept in runs, I have fellow flock-raising friends that free-range on standby to accept any birds that don’t fit in with my flocks. It’s a rare occurrence, but occasionally a dominant hen or a very low-ranking hen has to be rehomed to a friend to maintain the peace. So, there’s a possibility that one or more of my older hens (or these new chicks), will find their homes on another farm. It’s a win for my friends and a win for the hens — we’re always looking out for the best interest of our flocks!
Establishing a schedule
Chickens thrive on schedules – starting at a young age. Because my chicks are in an outdoor pen, they’re able to follow the natural schedule set by the sun. And, with our other setups within their line of sight, they can take their cue to head to bed from their future flockmates.
Schedules and routines are also helpful when it comes time to handle your chickens. From performing health checks, to just wanting to spend some quality time together – you’ll need to be able to catch your chicks at some point. Schedules are also important to your growing flock’s safety. For example, our miniature pig let herself into our chicks’ pen and they went on a happy excursion through our wisteria vine-covered terrain. But, because they knew their schedule, they headed in to roost when it was time, effectively saving me the trouble of having to chase them down. We decided to let them have their (supervised) free-ranging experience, but even at their young age they were able to put themselves to bed when it was time.
If possible, I highly recommend brooding your chicks in an area that receives natural light. This is another reason why I love using a brooder plate over a heat lamp. Not only do brooder plates carry a lower risk of causing a fire, they don’t emit any light. If your chicks are able to sleep and rise along with natural patterns from early on, it makes the transition to their forever home much easier for everyone!
Activities at this age
Chicks around 8 weeks old are beginning to resemble miniature versions of their full-grown selves, rather than fluffy hatchlings or patchy youngsters. Their colors and patterns are more vibrant, and you can sometimes start to see characteristics of roosters versus hens at this age. And, because they’re bigger and more coordinated, you’ll start to see them display their personalities and desire to play and explore.
I’ve adjusted the angle of their tree limbs and makeshift perch to accommodate their growth and skill level. My son also helped me hang a “chick swing” from the front of their run. And, while it should be noted that it’s not recommended to offer anything other than their chick feed at this age, I’ve started giving small tastes of dried mealworms and dried herbs as treats by hand to my chicks. This gets them used to me being the “treat lady”, and now I can easily get their attention when I shake the treat bag!
Another favorite activity at this age is scratching and dust bathing. They’ve made their own dust bath at the end of their enclosure, but I added some dried oregano to the area for extra incentive. I also give them coastal hay to scratch around in, which is a favorite afternoon activity! Hiding some of their herbs and mealworms in the hay keeps their minds and bodies occupied while I clean their brooder.
I also added a favorite activity of my own to their area: a spot to read! By hanging a hammock across from their enclosure, I can enjoy watching my chicks play and forage and take advantage of the cooler weather. Plus, the central location lets me see my other flocks, so everyone is used to seeing their caretaker curled up with a good book!
What’s next
In the weeks ahead, my chicks will be moved to their permanent homes. As they continue to mature, their genders will be apparent, which will play a large role in how they are placed. Their growing appetites will call for laying feed soon, and we will start introducing them to scratch grains and other protein-packed treats to help them gain weight and maintain healthy plumage throughout the cooler months.
By: Alyssa Holland
This entry was posted in Chickens
Eggs are amazing, nutritious feats of nature that chickens give back to their keepers. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, and sometimes even shapes, but sometimes their appearance can surprise those who come to collect them. From the normal to the not-so-normal, we’ll cover it all in our What are your hens’ eggs telling you? guide.
Why are chicken eggs sometimes misshapen?
An oddly shaped egg can be produced for various reasons. It often takes young hens an egg or two before they settle into their regular pattern. Stress in the chicken coop can lead to misshapen eggs too. This is usually due to a hen having the urge to lay but finding the space in the laying box occupied by another bird.
Misshapen eggs can be:
- Elongated, or they may have a thin, pointy end.
- Rough with bumps
- Thicker around the middle, appearing in a band pattern
- Round rather than the traditional oblong appearance
A ball-shaped egg is usually a sign of slight calcium deficiency. The round shape requires less calcium than a normal oval egg. In all these cases, the egg inside is unaffected and is perfectly safe to eat.
Infectious bronchitis can lead to misshapen eggs. An infected hen will stop producing eggs for a few days or will only lay intermittently. The eggs that are laid will have thin, wrinkled or rough shells, and the white of the egg will be watery. It is also common for the affected eggs to have lighter-colored shells than usual. This condition is uncommon, and should be diagnosed by a veterinarian.
Laryngotracheitis is another illness linked to egg abnormalities, but should also be diagnosed by a veterinarian. It’s important to note that any ailment can cause a hen to become stressed, which can cause a hen to lay misshapen eggs.
Why do chickens lay freckled eggs?
Some breeds always lay speckled eggs. However, if a hen that typically produces plain eggs lays speckled ones, there are various possible causes. She may have been stressed in some way while the egg was forming, or she may have developed an anomaly in the pigment-producing part of her egg-laying system.
Freckling is often the result of excess calcium production, sometimes associated with the ‘end of season’ laying at the beginning of winter. On some eggs, there is a marbled pattern rather than an area of freckles.
The speckling is usually smooth, but it sometimes manifests as raised blotches of excess calcium. These can be spots or wormlike strands, and they often occur as single spots on an otherwise standard egg. This may be linked to dehydration, so make sure your hens have enough water, and that a timid hen isn’t being bullied out of being properly hydrated.
Why do chicken eggshells sometimes have a white ring?
Viewed from the side, an eggshell with this peculiar oddity has a thick white ring, looking like an x-ray of the egg that lies beneath. It is usually caused by an interruption in the formation of the eggshell, caused by stress or by a second egg entering the internal production line.
The second egg produced in this process will usually have a flattened side, as it has bumped into the first egg during the early stages of shell formation and has been ‘squashed’ into an odd, flattened shape.
Why are chicken eggs sometimes wrinkled?
An eggshell with wrinkles can be a sign of stress or illness, but is usually a hereditary condition. Some older hens begin to lay wrinkled eggs too. The wrinkles are often deep grooves, giving the appearance of a very misshapen egg that is perhaps the most unusual of all egg oddities.
The wrinkles sometimes look like a series of cracks in the shell. This results from an egg cracking during calcium formation. The cracks are the chicken’s repairs – laying calcium over the fissures. Once again, the underlying cause is usually stress or illness, although sometimes it is simply the result of a second egg ‘crashing into’ the first due to an over-productive system.
Why do some eggs have double yolks?
In a rare, but completely normal phenomenon, chickens can lay eggs with two yolks inside. If fertilized and incubated or kept under a broody hen, double-yolked eggs can hatch twin chicks – but it’s more common for only one embryo to fully develop.
If you crack one of your chickens’ eggs and see two yolks, it’s the result of the hen releasing two yolks at the same time during ovulation, which then becomes encapsulated within one shell. It’s more common for newly-matured hens to lay double-yolked eggs, as their bodies are adjusting to ovulation. Laying eggs with two yolks can also be genetic, and the hen may continue to do so for the duration of her egg-laying career.
You do not need to crack the shell to find out what is inside – you can spot a double-yolker by ‘candling’ the egg. The word candling comes from the ancient practice of holding an egg in front of a candle flame, but a small flashlight does the job just as well. If there are two yolks inside, they will be visible as two dark blobs against the bright light as it shines through the shell.
Although double-yolkers are estimated to occur in just one per thousand eggs, the huge population of laying hens over the world means that they are a common sight on the plates of chicken keepers. Triple yolks are possible, but are very unlikely to grace the breakfast table– this ultra-rare phenomenon is found in just one per 25 million eggs.
Why do chickens lay less eggs sometimes?
Breed, age, health, and time of year all affect how many eggs chickens lay. Among the many different chicken breeds that are considered good layers (those that can lay upwards of 300 eggs per year), some well-known egg producers include:
In contrast, most ornamental and smaller chicken breeds lay less frequently, with some only laying a few eggs each month.
Depending on their genetics, hens will begin to ovulate (release a yolk) every 24 hours on average, starting at 6 months of age. Once a yolk has been released, it takes 19-20 hours to finish forming and be fully dressed in an eggshell. After an egg has been laid, the process repeats again – good layers can begin ovulating again within an hour after laying an egg. A hen will lay the most eggs during the first two years of life. After that, production begins to decrease by 10-20% each year.
Hens that are not feeling well, or are malnourished will lay less frequently. Flock discord, inadequate nutrition, and overcrowding are a handful of stressors that can take a toll on egg production. Make sure your hens have access to clean water and quality layer pellets at all times to ensure they’re getting the calories and nourishment they need. Adding scratch grains, chicken treats, and healthy kitchen scraps or safe foods from the garden to their diet will also give hens a nutritional boost.
Hens will inevitably lay less, or stop laying eggs altogether in the winter. A hen’s ovulation cycle is based on daylight hours, so once the days shorten, you can expect egg production to slow down. This is a hen’s natural reaction to the changing seasons as they prepare to reallocate energy to keep warm instead of laying eggs. Your hens will resume a normal laying schedule closer to spring, as days grow longer.
Another annual reason for a decrease in egg production is molting. Molting is the process of shedding old feathers and regrowing new ones to replace them. Molting also occurs during the fall in preparation for winter – so as the days grow shorter, your hens will begin to lose their dingy feathers in favor of new, denser ones to keep them warm. The result is a beautiful, vibrant new feathery outfit for your hens – but fewer eggs for you to gather. Molting takes a lot of energy, so expect your chickens to be on “lay-cation” for 8-16 weeks. There are some things you can do to help your chickens through a molt to offer relief during your flock’s annual feather renewal.
Why do chicken breeds lay different-colored eggs?
You’ve probably seen white and brown eggs, but some chickens can lay eggs in shades of green, blue, and even pink. But what causes such a variety of colors?
Genetics determine what color eggs a hen will lay. Some breeds of chickens have a standard color you can expect from them. For example, you can count on Leghorns to lay white eggs, Orpingtons to lay brown eggs, and Ameraucanas to lay blue ones. But different shades such as olive are the result of a hybrid hen – a hen bred from a combination of blue and brown egg genes. For example, if you breed an Orpington (brown egg genetics) rooster with an Ameraucana (blue egg genetics) hen, the result would be an “olive egger” hen that would lay green eggs. Egg color should be consistent with the hen laying them, and different colored eggs are not a cause for concern unless a hen suddenly starts laying a different shade from usual.
All eggs begin with a white shell, but the hen laying the egg adds a pigment to them as they make their way to be laid. This pigment only colors the shell, and does not penetrate the membrane. You’ll have to add food coloring if you want green eggs and ham!
Other breeds known for laying colorful eggs include: Rhode Island Reds, Plymouth Rocks, Wellsummers, and Marans. Hybrids (bred through selective pairing), such as Olive or Easter Eggers, can produce eggs varying in color based on their genetics.
Pro tip: you can get an idea of the color eggs a hen lays by looking at their earlobes. Hens with white earlobes will lay white eggs, and hens with red earlobes will lay brown eggs. This technique is not as accurate for pigmented eggs (blue, green or pink), as hybrid chickens will have a variety of colors to their earlobes. Still, it’s fun to try this prediction test with your flock.
Why do my chickens’ eggs have a thin shell, or no shell at all?
Have you ever collected eggs, only to find yourself flabbergasted by a naked egg? Thin-shelled eggs or those with no shell at all feel like partially filled water balloons and can be very disconcerting to find in the nesting box. These strange, spongy eggs are actually laid without the presence of the shell; only the membrane. This most often occurs with high-producing hens, when their bodies simply cannot keep up with yolk production. Oftentimes they will lay a fully-formed egg, then lay a shell-less egg a few hours later.
The other most common reason for eggs having thin or missing shells is inadequate calcium in their diet. Warning signs leading up to shell-less eggs can be thinner shells, so take note if your hens’ eggs are suddenly much easier to crack, or if you find broken eggs in the nesting box. A lot of calcium is required to “fully clothe” a yolk, so be sure to feed quality layer pellets that contain added calcium. If you notice thinner shells or “naked” eggs, supplement your hens’ feed with crushed oyster shells or other chicken calcium supplements. You can also save egg shells after cracking them to crush or grind up and sprinkle on top of your hens’ feed. Be sure not to offer shells that have not been broken down into smaller pieces, as chickens can acquire a taste for eggs and can actually eat them straight out of the nesting box.
Boost your hens’ shell-producing ability with chicken supplements to ensure they have all of the vitamins and minerals they need. As an added bonus, supplements such as omega-3 fed to your chickens are passed onto their eggs– and then to you when you eat them!
Why do chickens sometimes eat their eggs?
Hens will actually eat their own eggs, usually for specific reasons. This behavior can usually be corrected when adjustments are made to their environment.
Dehydration
Chickens that eat their eggs may be dehydrated. Since eggs contain a large amount of water, your chickens may be resorting to eating them in an effort to keep themselves hydrated. To stop egg eating due to dehydration, make sure that your hens are supplied with clean water at all times.
Vitamin deficiency
Your chicken’s diet is fundamental to their well-being, and a poor one could be depriving them of their nutritional requirements – leading them to feast on their eggs in an effort to recoup missing nutrients. It’s important to provide your chickens with a balanced diet of enough protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals. For added calcium, offer crushed oyster shells.
Issues with the nesting box
Your nesting box needs to be a secure and safe space for your hens. Egg eating can occur when your hens are uncomfortable with the nesting box, most commonly due to the bedding itself or exposing your chickens to too much light. Make sure that their nesting area:
- Has adequate bedding made of a comfortable nesting material
- Remains free of droppings or debris
- Does not receive direct sunlight
- Has enough space for the number of hens you keep
- Is completely separate from the roosting area
Our chicken coops are designed for easy cleaning, and with integrated and private nesting boxes, while leaving plenty of space for roosting. This ensures a comfortable and hygienic habitat for your hens that will support them in their laying efforts.
Behavioral
Chickens found to be eating eggs can also be suffering from stress or anxiety, which hens can experience for a number of reasons. Stress-inducing scenarios can be related to:
- Being handled
- A new environment
- The introduction of new chickens
- Extreme heat
- Visits from predators
Some stressful situations are easier to alleviate than others, such as introducing new chickens or excessive handling.
Chickens that eat eggs may simply be bored. Boredom in chickens can occur when they don’t have enough space to roam, or they lack activities to keep them entertained.
For a happy hen, provide as much space as possible outside of the coop with a walk in chicken run or chicken fencing. Chicken toys are another great way to keep your chickens entertained.
Omlet and your hens’ eggs
The more love and care you put into your flock’s setup and your interactions with them, the happier and healthier your hens will be – and the more delicious and healthy their eggs will be. Hens that are kept in clean, safe chicken coops will lay eggs more regularly and without difficulty. The joy and companionship you’ll reap from sowing a great relationship with your hens will accompany the steady supply of eggs for you to display in your kitchen – a visual reminder of the bond you share with your flock.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Hey y’all! My name is Alyssa Holland, and I live on a small hobby farm in north-central Texas. We have all kinds of animals on our farm: horses, goats, a miniature pig, rabbits, guinea pigs, dogs, cats, fish, and of course — chickens! We have around 25 chickens currently, and tend a mixed flock of many different breeds. Most recently, we’ve added a rescue pigeon to our flock that thinks she’s a chicken!
As a small hobby farmer, springtime has always been my favorite season – animals being born, flowers blooming, warmer weather, and of course, new chicks! So when I thought about raising chicks any other time of the year, the idea seemed very foreign and honestly, intimidating. But as it turns out, it’s one of the best-kept chicken keeping secrets! I’ll give you a firsthand look at raising chicks in the fall, and why so far it’s been a much easier and more enjoyable experience than I ever imagined.
Why I chose to raise chicks in the fall
Spring is the natural season for all things new. On our small farm, our goats, rabbits, and chickens usually have their babies this time of the year. Animals instinctively know when is the best time to raise their young, but where we live, late spring and anytime in the summer can be unyielding in both temperature and weather. We live in north-central Texas, and it’s not uncommon for us to reach the triple digits by June. And, spring is primetime for severe weather like hail storms and heavy rainfall.
When I started thinking about setting up a brooder in the fall instead of the spring, I immediately noticed several advantages over springtime chick-rearing:
- The brooder temperature can be kept much more stable with the cooler ambient temperatures
- Humidity levels are lower, making the brooder much less stuffy and smelly
- Outside visits are easier without excessive heat or rainfall
- I’m not a sweaty mess after cleaning the brooder and handling my chicks!
Fall brings a collective sigh of relief to everyone on our farm – a welcome respite from the sweltering summer heat. But it’s also a time when the plants that managed to survive the summer go into their dormant phase, daylight hours dwindle, and there’s an overall sense of stillness that settles over the property. It’s not entirely unpleasant, but after two seasons that teem with life, fall can be a foreboding of winter (which no one around here enjoys!). So, the thought of having chicks to raise throughout this season of transition seemed like the perfect way to incorporate new energy into a world that seems like it’s falling asleep.
Where I found chicks this time of year
We have a large flock with multiple roosters, so oftentimes I will incubate our eggs and hatch chicks in our schoolroom. It makes for a great biology lesson for my first grade and pre-k children! But, in our experience, we end up with a large yield of roosters from our home-incubated batches. We have to find homes for them, and listen to the cacophony of competing roosters every morning…and afternoon, and evening. I love a good cock-a-doodle-doo in the morning, but not all day every day! So, for this batch of chicks, I reverted to my old standby to purchase pullets (sexed hens) to avoid accumulating more roosters.
My go-to for chicks is local feed stores – specifically our Tractor Supply Company. They know me there (on a first-name basis!) and they consistently have a healthy variety of chicks during their “chick days” in the spring. To my surprise (and delight), this year I noticed they still had chicks well into late summer when ordinarily they stop ordering chicks around mid to late June. I asked the staff members, and was informed that they would keep stocking chicks through the end of September. Consider my interest officially piqued.
Bringing chicks home
The second week of September I brought home 6 chicks: 3 Plymouth Rocks and 3 Silver Laced Wyandottes. Prior to their arrival, I decided to change up the way I normally set up their brooder. Typically, we keep our brooder pen in our shop, but with our weather still being warm I was concerned that it would get too hot and stuffy. So, along with trying my hand at raising chicks in the fall, I decided to go a different direction with their brooder.
I have an Eglu Go with the attached run that I’m using as their brooder. Omlet doesn’t recommend placing chicks under 12 weeks old in their coops, so I’m definitely using this product “off label”. I did make the following modifications to make it small-chick friendly:
- Left out the roosting rack to accommodate small feet
- Because of their small size, I wrapped the run in aviary netting
- I’m using a brooder plate instead of a heat lamp so that the coop doesn’t get too hot
- Use a run cover to shield from rain
- Placed in an area where our outdoor cats and livestock guardian dog can patrol for predators
So far, it’s worked wonderfully for my purposes. My chicks have plenty of space, are able to interact with nature, and aren’t reliant on me to take them on outdoor excursions. I realize this isn’t an option for everyone, so I’ll share what type of activities my chicks enjoy while they’re outside of their brooder for those that take their brood out for daily visits.
Outings and activities with your chicks
I chose pullets that were already 3-4 weeks old – they just looked so sad being the biggest in their brooder with other shoppers going home with their smaller, fluffier counterparts! But, as our temperatures can fluctuate wildly this time of year, I decided that starting out with chicks that are a bit older would be beneficial for 3 reasons:
- They can go outside sooner and enjoy outdoor excursions
- Because of their size and agility, they’re less likely to be threatened by one of our main fall foes: snakes
- Older chicks can be handled more than newly hatched chicks
At about a month old, my chicks love exploring the grass, leaves, dirt, and insects they can find during their outings in the Eglu Go run. With the roosting rack absent, they can hang out inside of the Eglu Go during these excursions — which also gets them accustomed to going inside of a coop. No matter what type of outdoor playpen or run you set up for your chicks, make sure it’s fully covered, and that any openings aren’t large enough for your chicks to slip through.
Some supplemental things I’ve added to the run for additional fun include:
- Tree branches for climbing over and under
- “Practice perches” repurposed from an old bed headboard – the rungs are perfect for little feet to practice gripping
- Piles of leaves to scratch in
- An area for dust bathing
- A repurposed pallet to lift food and water up off of the ground to keep it free of dirt and debris
Our temperatures have stayed in the mid to low 90s during the day, so chicks this age can tolerate several hours outside without a heat lamp. Their run is covered, and is in a shady place under our wisteria vines to keep them out of direct sunlight.
Planning for their futures
The chicks will eventually call our Eglu Cube and attached walk in chicken run, or our homemade chicken coop home once they’re 12 weeks old. While they mature, we will evaluate their personalities and see which flock they will best fit in with. I’m excited to share their journey from chicks to pullets, and their transition from brooder to permanent home!
By: Alyssa Holland
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chicken roosts are an essential part of a flock’s setup. They’re simple in their concept, but chicken roosts can prove difficult to perfect in their construction and placement. Omlet has taken the guesswork out of the perfect chicken roost, and we’ve incorporated them in all of our chicken coops. Read on to see how to help your hens make the most of roosting time for their well-deserved beauty rest.
What is a chicken roost?
You can think of your chickens’ roost as their bed — and like a mattress, a roost can make or break a good night’s rest. Chickens will spend anywhere from 8-12 hours roosting, depending on the amount of daylight. When the sun starts to set, your hens will instinctively head to their cozy chicken coop.
Setting up the perfect roost for your chickens
The perfect place for chickens to go to roost is:
- Set up above ground level
- Separate from egg-laying areas
- Shielded from the elements
- Safe from chicken predators
Chicken roosts should be constructed of easy-to-clean materials, and should be comfortable for your hens’ feet. Traditionally, roosts have been either round or rectangular bars that are small enough around for chickens’ feet to grasp. But, since chickens squat down to cover their feet when they roost, these bars have them performing a balancing act all night long. A much better alternative is a flat, textured surface for them to get comfortable on.
Creating an ideal roosting area is a vital part of how to take care of your chickens. This secluded, comfortable area should make your hens feel safe and protected all night long. Quality sleep contributes to your flock’s overall health and well-being, making their roosting area a fundamental element of their setup.
Why do chickens roost?
A “roost” is both a verb and a noun: chickens roost at night in their roosts. Roosts are where birds congregate in order to sleep, and their biological clock tells them when to roost. Some birds roost on the ground, but many species of birds, both wild and domestic, seek roosting places that are above ground level. Chickens are part of the elevated-roosting group of birds.
Protection from predators
Being elevated while sleeping makes hens feel safer from chicken predators and the weather. In the wild, many birds roost in trees that offer a canopy of shelter from the elements. Similarly, your chickens will seek a place that is both elevated and shielded from the wind, rain, and snow.
Pecking order at night
When night begins to fall, your hens will begin to head in to roost in their coop. If you observe the order in which they turn in, it’s common for hens at the top of the chicken pecking order to claim their spot in the roost first, and the rest will follow suit down to the lowest-ranking hen. In an established flock, the top-ranking hens will make sure every flock member has a place in the roost.
Keeping your hens safe whilst roosting
By the time the last hen has turned in for the night, it will be past sunset. This is when predators are most active, which is why hens instinctively roost before nightfall. To add an additional layer of protection, an automatic chicken coop door can be installed on your hens’ house to make sure everyone is tucked in safely after dark.
Difference between chicken perches & roosts
Not to be confused with a roosting area, chicken perches are bars set up inside of your flock’s run to give them space to climb and exercise. Many hens enjoy being above ground level at various times throughout the day to observe their surroundings. Hens will flap, fly, or hop their way up to their perches, which help to strengthen and stretch their wings.
Chicken perches like the PoleTree Customizable Chicken Perch or the Freestanding Chicken Perch are designed for play and enrichment, or maybe the occasional afternoon nap in the sun – but not for overnight sleep. Roosting overnight on a chicken perch in the run leaves your hens exposed to the elements and at higher risk of encountering predators.
Common chicken roost problems
Many chicken keepers mean well when they set up their flock’s roosting area, but most homemade constructions fall flat when it comes to creating restful roosts. Oftentimes homemade roosting bars or racks:
- Are hard to clean
- Invite mites
- Weaken over time
Any poorly placed, wobbly, or unlevel chicken roosts will be deemed unfit for sleep by your flock. You may also notice older hens avoiding roosts that are too high, as their joints can’t support them when they dismount each morning. Heavier hens may also have trouble flying up to roosts that are too high.
Uncomfortable, unsafe, or cramped roosts can lead to a chicken not going to their coop at night. Instead, your hens may find their roost in nesting boxes or on perches out in their run. This behavior can quickly become frustrating and dangerous, and should be addressed as soon as possible.
How much roosting space per chicken?
Another potential problem with homemade roosts is inadequate spacing. Sometimes there’s just not enough room for the last hen or two to find a comfortable spot in the roost at night. On the flip side, if there’s too much space, hens may feel vulnerable. This is a problem particularly in the winter months, as hens will huddle together for warmth overnight.
Different chicken breeds have varying space requirements, but as a general rule, you should aim to provide approximately 8-12 inches of space on the roost per hen. Omlet’s large chicken coop has a roosting area that can accommodate up to 10 hens comfortably.
Best chicken roosting bar material
There are different types of roosting bars and racks. We’ve outlined the most common materials, and the pros and cons of each.
Wooden roosts
Wood is the most traditional material for constructing chicken roosts. It’s affordable, easy for chickens to grab onto, and readily available. However, wood has its fair share of disadvantages as well.
Cons:
- Absorbs moisture and odors, allowing bacteria to breed
- Harbors mites and other insects
- Can splinter off into your hens’ feet
- Warps, rots, and deteriorates over time
- Hard to clean
Pros:
- Affordable
- Readily available
- Cut and placed easily
For all of its popularity, wooden roosts are not the most practical solution. There is a lot of maintenance and upkeep involved in wooden roosts, and most chicken keepers would do well to avoid them.
Metal roosts
At a cursory glance, metal roosts may look appealing. They’re easy to clean, long-lasting, and don’t require much upkeep. But even with these advantages, the biggest drawbacks involve your beloved hens.
Cons:
- Slippery and hard for hens’ feet to grasp
- Easily affected by temperature – they can be burning hot or freezing cold to the touch
- Expensive
- Difficult to adjust or cut to size
Pros:
- Long-lasting
- Easy to clean
As you can see, metal roosting bars and racks can be very dangerous for your hens. In cold weather, chickens can actually become frozen to metal roosts, and in hot weather, the metal can burn your hens’ feet. Their longevity might be appealing, but it isn’t worth the risk to your hens. There’s an even better, long-lasting solution.
Plastic roosts
Plastic has the best of both worlds: easy to maintain and safe for your hens. Here are the pros and cons of plastic:
Pros:
- Easy to clean with a pressure washer or sponge
- Doesn’t absorb moisture
- Not hospitable to mites and insects
- Easy for your hens’ feet to grasp
- Is not easily influenced by the temperature
- Long-lasting and does not require routine maintenance
While plastic roosts may be hard to make yourself, Omlet has perfected the plastic roosting rack that is included in all of our chicken coops. The ergonomic design fits perfectly in the coop with a slightly textured surface to give your hens’ feet purchase on the smooth material. And, being made of heavy-duty plastic, your Omlet setup will be the only one you’ll ever need to buy.
Cons:
- Difficult to cut to size
- Not readily available (apart from an Eglu chicken coop)
Chicken roost ideas
The ideal chicken roost will be:
- 3-4 feet off of the ground
- Made of an easy-to-clean, comfortable material
- Large enough to accommodate your flock, but small enough to make them comfortable
- Separated from their nesting boxes
This particular setup may prove to be difficult to design within an existing coop. Plastic is extremely durable, but difficult to cut with common tools – not to mention hard to come by. So what’s a chicken keeper to do when pursuing the perfect chicken roost? Thankfully, Omlet has the solution to this conundrum.
Creating the ideal chicken roost with Omlet
The Eglu Cube has a divider that can be closed to prevent hens from roosting in the nesting area, and has designated doors for both the roosting area and nest box. Additionally, the Eglu Cube’s roosting area has:
- A roosting rack constructed of heavy-duty plastic with a textured overlay to help your hens grip the surface
- Small openings for droppings to pass through to the tray below, which also offers small footholds for your chickens
- A large, flat area perfect for your hens to hunker down for the night
The fully enclosed Eglu Cube makes it a formidable fortress for your flock during their most vulnerable times. With the dual-insulated walls and ample ventilation, your chickens will never be more comfortable.
The other two chicken coops from Omlet are:
Both of these coops are for smaller flocks of 2-6 hens, and include the same style of roosting rack as the Eglu Cube. In addition to a plastic chicken roost, both coops also feature:
- Dual insulated walls and ample ventilation
- The ability to add on wheels and handles to convert them into mobile chicken coops
- Easy-to-clean interior components that can all be pressure washed or wiped down
All of our chicken coops help foster your flock’s natural behaviors and habits, including a comfortable and secure roosting routine.
Chicken care with Omlet
From roostime to playtime, give your chickens the best when you choose Omlet for all of your flock-raising needs. All of our products have been rigorously tested by both our team of experts and through daily experience from our customers. Our dynamic chicken tractors and unique toys like the Chicken Swing are sure to be a delight to both flocks and their raisers.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Have you thought about raising chicks this fall? There are many advantages to brooding chicks in the fall versus the spring, but it’s important to choose the right breed for your climate and weather patterns. We’ll help you in your journey to find the right breed of chick for fall, and offer some tips to help your young hens thrive.
Raising chicks in fall 101
Fall is a great time to raise chicks. The weather is mild, and chicks that grow out over the fall and winter will be ready to lay eggs in the spring. Some other reasons to raise chicks in the fall include:
- Perfect temperatures for putting your chicken coop together
- Less vegetation and insects to distract your young hens from getting used to their regular diet
- Shorter days ensure your growing chicks get used to their roost-to-rise schedule
The main consideration when raising chicks in the fall is to make sure they will be fully feathered by the time cold weather comes. Most chicken breeds will be fully feathered by the time they are 6-12 weeks old, with 12 weeks of age being the best time to move them into their permanent hen house outside.
Fall chicks mean winter pullets
Once your young hens have reached 12 weeks of age, they’re ready to move into their Eglu Cube. At this age, they will be fully feathered and have enough strength to navigate a coop ladder and put themselves to bed when it’s time to roost.
The winter temperatures won’t pose a problem for fully-feathered pullets, but if you live in an area that experiences particularly cold winters, adding Eglu extreme temperature protection will make sure your pullets are at their coziest in sub-freezing conditions. Taking care of your pullets at this stage will be the same as taking care of your chickens during the winter — they may be young, but their fully-feathered frames will serve them well in the months to come.
Why do some chicken breeds do better in winter?
Most breeds of chickens fare better in colder weather than in hot, but some breeds are more likely to thrive in cold temperatures. Breeds with short combs and wattles are resistant to frostbite, and heavier breeds have more body heat to insulate them. We’ve listed some of the most cold hardy breeds that will be perfect pullets by the time winter makes its appearance.
Ameraucana
The Ameraucana chicken is a hardy breed that lays colorful eggs. They have pea-combs that are resistant to frostbite, and have a good resistance to cold temperatures.
Cochin
Cochins are very fluffy, which gives them an edge in the colder temperatures. Their legs are also covered in feathers, which helps insulate them from windchill. But their owners should take care that their leg feathers don’t get wet — damp feet during winter temperatures can be dangerous.
Dominique
The Dominique chicken has a small comb and large body, making it well equipped for the cold. Their dense feathers keep them well insulated, and their “barred” (striped) pattern is a stunning addition to a flock.
Faverolle
Faverolles are another fluffy breed. They have feathers on their face called “muffs” and are bearded, meaning they have tufts of feathers under their chins. Their legs are sparsely feathered, offering some protection from the cold. This interesting flock addition also has 5 toes as opposed to the traditional 4.
Sussex
A dual-purpose breed, the Sussex is a larger chicken with dense plumage. They may not have feathers, but their bare legs are covered nicely by their bodies when they roost. They are an overall hardy breed that is adaptable in any season.
Wyandotte
Wyandottes are big and beautiful chickens. Their body mass helps to insulate them, as does their full plumage. They have rose combs that are resistant to frostbite, and are considered to be hardy in most weather conditions. They can be found in a wide variety of colors, and are known to continue their egg production through the winter.
Cold-hardy chickens in summer
Your winter pullets will become spring chickens — and will then experience their first summer. Like all hens, cold hardy breeds need special care during summer months. But, those best suited for cold climates may struggle in the heat more than others.
Chickens release heat through their combs and wattles, so short-combed breeds may overheat more easily. Keep your chickens cool in the summer with lots of water and plenty of shade in their run with weather protection covers for walk in chicken runs. Chickens are amazingly resilient and adaptable, and the vast majority of hens are capable of weathering all of the seasons with the right setup.
Omlet and fall chicks
Our chicken-keeping products will help your fall chicks thrive — and be comfortable and protected in the process. Our Eglu Cube chicken coop will keep your pullets safe and thriving throughout the cooler weather. Extreme temperature jackets add an extra layer of insulation for your future layers — keeping them cozy all winter long in preparation for warmer weather. At Omlet, we’re here to help you and your hens enjoy every season together.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Have you considered rescuing chickens? Whether you’re just starting out with a flock, or growing an established one, adopting hens can be an emotionally rewarding experience. Hens can be in need of rescue for a number of reasons: owner surrender or confiscation, retiring breeding or laying hens, or chickens with special needs – there are chickens in search of their forever homes. We’ll share our 6 top tips for rescuing hens, and show you how Omlet can support them, and you, in the journey.
1. Find the perfect chicken coop
Creating the perfect setup for rescue hens is essential in helping them adjust to their forever home. Hens in need of rescuing may have been confiscated by law enforcement due to neglect or unsuitable living situations or may be leaving a noisy egg production facility. No matter what their story may be, all rescued hens will be in desperate need of a safe place to land.
Having an Eglu Cube chicken coop ready for your hens’ arrival will provide them with peace and comfort from the start. With its elevated design and secluded egg-laying area, hens can find rest in the shade and a secluded place to lay their eggs privately. The attached run offers space to peck at the grass – which may be something rescued hens have never experienced before. The Eglu Cube is also available as a chicken tractor to offer your newly rescued hens fresh patches of grass and a new selection of insects to munch on.
Adding an automatic chicken coop door will help your hens feel even more secure overnight. The gently closing door will tuck them in tight and keep potentially stressful sights and sounds from keeping them awake. And, with the ability to open and close on a light or timed schedule, rescued hens can seize the day at the crack of dawn while you sleep in.
2. Give them plenty of space
Space is not something generally afforded to hens that are coming from less-than-ideal living conditions. Whether they’ve been crowded or caged, your newly rescued hens will appreciate having some room to spread out. And, as their new owner and forever-home-provider, you’ll want to spend time with them in their setup.
Our Walk In Chicken Run gives rescued hens the space they deserve, while giving you the opportunity to spend time with them. The convenient and secure stable-style doors let you access your hens with ease, and the fully-enclosed run keeps your hens safe from predators. The anti-dig skirting helps prevent predators like weasels, raccoons, and foxes from tunneling in, and the roof panels keep aerial predators away from your flock.
Customize their walk in run with chicken perches, the PoleTree customizable chicken perch, or Freestanding Chicken Perch for unparalleled perching opportunities. Perches or chicken toys and the enrichment they provide are probably elements that rescued hens have never encountered before, but are excellent ways to let your new flock members know that they are loved and safe in their new home.
3. Allow them to settle
Depending on their previous living conditions, rescued hens may take longer to settle into their new homes than those raised in ideal situations. At first, they may be distrustful of humans – either from negative experiences or lack of contact. Give them plenty of time to become used to seeing you. With patience and routine, your rescued hens will soon figure out that you mean them no harm.
As tempting as it may be to get to know your new chickens, don’t attempt to handle or pet rescued hens for the first week or two. Chickens make great family pets, but children should be taught how to handle hens properly and to respect their space when needed. Rescued hens will be overwhelmed enough trying to get used to their new surroundings, so incorporating unfamiliar physical contact may be too much for them. Instead, try to sit quietly with your flock while they eat or peck in the grass. Speak softly to them to get them used to your voice. Over time, you can offer treats or scratch grains by hand – just make sure to let your hens come to you.
4. Understand the pecking order
Chickens are social animals that have a hierarchy within their flocks known as the “pecking order.” To new chicken keepers, the act of establishing this pecking order may be confusing or even concerning to witness. To understand the pecking order in your hens, you’ll need to watch them closely when introducing them – both to each other and to a new home. Normal behaviors for chickens establishing a pecking order include:
- Raising the feathers around their neck
- Squaring off with each other through posturing or staring
- Squawking or clucking at each other
- Brief scuffles that include sparring and/or feather pulling
Every flock has a pecking order, which can be challenged periodically even once it’s established. It’s normal to see minor and short-lived disagreements within an established flock, but chickens should be separated from each other if:
- Physical altercations occur more often than once or twice a day for consecutive days
- Bleeding or extreme feather pulling occurs
- Dominate hens are keeping other hens from coming into the coop to roost or lay eggs (even the “top ranking” hens should see that the lowest ranking hens have a safe place to sleep and lay)
- Flock members are keeping others from eating or drinking
5. Keep an eye on their health
If you’re adding rescued hens to your own backyard flock, you’ll want to be absolutely sure they’re healthy first. All new chickens should be quarantined away from your flock for 14 days to make sure they don’t have anything contagious. Consider having a secondary chicken setup such as the Eglu Go chicken coop to quarantine new hens, or to separate ill or fighting flockmates.
Even if your rescued hens are your first flock, you’ll want to give your chickens a health check before releasing them into their setup. Once they’re in their forever home, keep a close eye on them to make sure they are eating, drinking, and acting normally.
The appearance of rescued hens varies, but some common ailments seen in rescued hens include:
- Dull or missing feathers
- Clear, thin discharge from the eyes or nose
- Irregular gait or hesitant to walk much (usually due to being confined in a wire cage – their feet may be sore and their legs weak)
These minor discomforts should resolve within a week or two after eating a nutritious diet. If your hens don’t improve, or get worse, be sure to call your veterinarian.
6. Provide them with the right diet
Feeding your hens a nutrient-dense diet will help them feel and look their best. If they are a laying breed of chicken, be sure to feed them quality laying pellets containing 16-18% protein. Your hens can have feed left out for them all day – even rescued hens that may have been deprived of food will not overeat. It’s also helpful to feed chicken supplements to help hens bounce back from stress. Protein-rich treats like dried mealworms or scratch grains will help hens feel more energized – and are also a great bargaining chip when it comes to winning their trust.
As with any flock, make sure rescued hens have unlimited access to fresh water. Adding a small amount of apple cider vinegar to their water will help boost your hens’ immune system and help them grow healthy feathers. You can also toss herbs like fresh oregano into their water or feed for an added immunity boost.
Where to rescue hens
There are various resources when it comes to adopting rescued hens. A great place to start would be your local animal control office or animal shelter. Hens are sometimes surrendered to an animal shelter, or animal control officers may remove chickens from poor living situations and will care for them at the shelter until they are adopted. Other resources for finding hens to adopt include:
- Chicken rescue groups (found online)
- Egg production facilities that retire hens after their peak laying age (usually around 2 years old)
- Hatcheries that are retiring breeding hens (these hens are usually well cared for, but in need of a forever home)
- Individuals seeking to rehome their flocks due to circumstances
Omlet and your rescue hens
Adopting an animal in need is a beautiful thing. Rescuing hens from dire situations or temporary care and bringing them to their forever homes is a balm for both chickens and their keepers. Omlet’s Eglu Cube, Walk In Chicken Run, and Smart Autodoor will help your rescued hens feel safe and secure from the first moment in their new setup. A difficult living situation can be turned into a distant memory with your love and care, and with our chicken products that are designed to help hens live their best lives.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chicks grow up quickly and soon it will be time to transition your chicks into their Eglu chicken coop. Their brooder will start to feel crowded after a few weeks, and your fully feathered pullets will be ready to strut out in a coop of their own. We’re here to help you make moving day an easy and stress-free experience.
What age can chicks move into their Eglu chicken coop?
Chicks are usually fully feathered by the time they’re 6 weeks old, but not all chicks are ready to venture beyond their brooder at this age. Even though they’ve traded their fluffy down for mature feathers, they’re still very young. At Omlet, we recommend transitioning your chicks from their brooder to their Eglu chicken coop at 12 weeks of age.
Waiting until your chicks are 12 weeks old will give them time to become more coordinated and build the strength they need to navigate the bigger world outside of the brooder, and give them plenty of time to become familiar with their rise-to-roost schedule.
From brooder to coop
These 12 weeks will go by in a blink of an eye, so be sure to prepare for (and enjoy) your chicks’ time in the brooder. Caring for newly hatched chicks is exciting, and will set the tone for the rest of your relationship with them. Handling your chicks daily will help build a bond — and there’s no better time than when they’re in their brooder to kickstart this relationship. Once your little flock trusts you, it will make their transition to their coop even easier.
In the meantime, you can set up your flock’s walk in chicken run to take your chicks outside once they’re fully feathered. Keep these excursions short to make sure they don’t get chilled or draw the attention of other animals (including your other pets). If you plan to use an automatic chicken coop door, you can open and close it while your chicks are on their outing to get them used to the noise. Show your small flock where their chicken feeders and waterers are so that they’ll know where to find them once they move in.
Once your chicks are 12 weeks old and are all healthy and happy, it’s time to make the move to the coop. The big moving day should be based on the weather rather than a specific date. You want to look for a sunny day with moderate temperatures – ideally between 65-80℉. Avoid moving your chicks on windy or wet days, and try to move them as early as possible so that they can experience a full day and be ready to head to bed when night falls.
Tips for your chicks’ first night
If your brooder utilizes a brooding plate rather than a heat lamp, your chicks may already have the hang of going to bed at nightfall. But, being in a brooder is much different than being out in the big world, so even chicks that have an established sleep cycle may be caught off guard during their first night out.
First and foremost, you’ll want to keep your chicks safe from predators. The attached runs of the Eglu Pro chicken coops are predator-resistant, but your pullets will be much safer and more comfortable overnight in the roosting area inside of the coop. You may need to manually tuck your young hens in on their first night (or two) and close the door until they learn when bedtime is.
If you have an Autodoor, the coop light acts like a nightlight to guide sleepy heads to the roost. This is particularly helpful for chicks that were raised with a coop light – they’ll associate light with warmth and will seek it out when darkness falls.
New chicks and the existing pecking order
If you’re introducing your chicks to an existing flock, your older hens will help them learn the tips and tricks of the coop. But, older hens will also let newcomers know who’s in charge. Every flock of chickens has a hierarchy, and by understanding the pecking order in chickens you’ll be able to recognize what is normal hen behavior, or what constitutes bullying and the need to remove your chicks for their safety.
Most chicks fall into line quickly, just as most hens at the top of the pecking order aren’t ruthless tyrants. There are exceptions to the rule though, so be on the lookout for concerning behavior like:
- Hens keeping chicks away from food or out of the coop
- Scuffles severe enough to draw blood or cause excessive feather loss
- Pinning chicks down
If you notice your hens not accepting your chicks into the flock, try setting up an adjacent run or add walk in chicken run partitions to your setup to allow them to get to know each other through a safety barrier. It’s rare for hens to forever hold a grudge against new additions — so be patient, but also conscientious of the safety of your chicks.
Omlet and your chicks
Our products are designed to keep your flock safe – no matter their age, and to make caring for your chickens less of a chore and more of an enjoyable activity. The Eglu Pro chicken coop is perfect for growing flocks, especially when paired with our walk in chicken run. And, by installing an Smart Autodoor, you’ll have peace of mind from the start. Make moving day an enjoyable and memorable experience for you and your chicks, and set the tone for a lifetime of adventures together.
This entry was posted in Chickens
There are many references to spring and chickens, but hens are not exclusive to just one season. In fact, there are some breeds of chickens that prefer fall and its cooler temperatures. But, no matter if you have spring chickens or a fall flock, we’ve got the products to keep your hens happy all year long.
Should you get chickens in fall?
Fall and spring have a lot in common: moderate temperatures, change in the amounts of daylight and vegetation, and a great opportunity to try something new. Because of these ideal conditions, fall is an excellent time to consider getting chickens. Here are some reasons why fall may actually be better than spring for adding chickens to your backyard or existing flock:
- Cooler temperatures mean less stress for hens
- Shorter days encourage hens to learn their roost and wake routines quickly
- Less vegetation means more treats and opportunities for you to bond with your new hens
There’s also shorter, less dense grass in the fall — giving you the perfect opportunity to practice maneuvering your chicken tractor or to position your chicken coop. You may also want to consider raising chicks in the fall over the spring for the same reasons.
Why do some chicken breeds do better in fall?
What makes one breed of hen better than the next when it comes to seasonal changes and cooler temperatures? Hens have advantages that are displayed in the way they are built that will clue you in as to how likely they are to be a fan of fall. Their feathering, size, and even their combs and wattles are good indicators of if your hen is hardy in autumn.
Since chickens release heat through their combs and wattles, breeds with larger head adornments tend to do best in the heat. Conversely, hens with smaller combs and wattles are less likely to experience frostbite in the winter. Lean chickens fare better in the heat, and heavy hens weather the winter with ease. And so, in order to have a well-rounded chicken that will best tolerate the changing of the seasons, a balance must be found.
We’ve outlined some breeds of chickens that thrive in fall because of their general hardiness in all temperatures. Not all chicken keepers will experience cold temperatures during autumn, just like not all flocks are frozen in fall. The best hens to keep in the fall are those that are both cold and heat-tolerant.
Plymouth Rocks
Plymouth Rock chickens are known for their hardiness in most temperatures. They have moderate-sized combs and while they’re considered a heavy breed, they aren’t oversized. Plymouth Rocks are excellent layers of large brown eggs, and have a long lifespan of up to 10-12 years. Plymouth Rocks are typically “barred”, meaning their feathers are striped in pattern. Their black and white coloring will make them easy to spot among the fall foliage.
Possibly the most popular breed of chicken, Rhode Island Reds are hardy in just about every climate. They’re a dual-purpose breed (bred for both meat and eggs) but aren’t as heavy as hens bred exclusively for meat. They have moderate-sized combs and wattles, and are excellent layers of brown eggs. Rhode Island Reds are active, making them great choices for fall insect control.
Brahmas
They may be large, but Brahmas are surprisingly adaptable to both hot and cold climates. Their dense feathers keep them warm in cooler temperatures, and as long as they have access to cool water and shade, they will fare just fine as the weather warms up. Their legs are well protected by their feathers, but it’s important not to let them stand in mud — it can cake in their fluffy feet and lead to soreness. Due to their size, Brahmas won’t hop your garden fence to sample your autumn harvest.
Australorps
Australorps are essentially smaller versions of Orpingtons, but with just as impressive laying ability, with the world record of 364 eggs in 365 days being set by an Australorp hen. In addition to their prolific egg-laying, they are both heat and cold-hardy, adjusting to each season with ease. Their unique “beetle black” coloring sports a green hue when their feathers are fresh from their fall molting cycle.
Easter Eggers
Not an officially recognized breed, Easter Eggers are the result of crossing an Araucana and any other breed of chicken that lays brown eggs. The result is a rainbow of possibilities for eggshell color: from blue, green, and even pink-colored eggs. Because they can vary widely in appearance and build, Easter Eggers that are best suited to all seasons are of medium build with small or medium-sized wattles and combs. That being said, hybrid breeds are known for their health and hardiness — making them an excellent choice to start with in the fall.
Orpingtons
Orpingtons are generally recognized as a cold-hardy breed, but in recent years have gained a reputation for being tolerant of most weather. They may be on the heavier side, but their large combs and wattles help disperse heat to keep them cool in the summer months. Their head adornments may need some Vaseline in the winter to keep them from becoming frostbitten, but since Orpingtons are known as the “lapdogs” of chicken breeds, it should be an easy task. Their rich colors are a perfect complement to a fall palette.
Flock-raising in the fall
Regardless of breed, all chickens need a sturdy, comfortable home to thrive in the fall. The cooler temperatures, changes in vegetation, and shorter days all affect how your hens feel and behave. During this particular change in the seasons, you may be wondering how chicken keepers can prepare for fall. Some things to keep in mind are:
Preparing your chickens for fall can be an enjoyable task when you have the right setup. An easy-to-clean chicken coop goes a long way in helping to prepare for autumn, allowing you to get it fresh and clean for the new season with minimal time and effort.
Chickens scratching through your freshly raked leaf piles? Chicken fencing is a fast and easy solution to keeping your flocks from reaching certain areas. Omlet’s chicken fencing comes in multiple lengths, and can be arranged in any shape you desire. And, when the seasons change once again, the poles are easy to pick up and move to create a new area for your hens.
Omlet and your fall flock
Omlet supplies chicken keepers all over the world with products that not only last through the seasons, but provide ultimate support and comfort to chickens and their raisers. Our Eglu Cube chicken coop, chicken toys, and chicken fencing will meet all of your hens’ needs this fall – and make this season, and every season, the best experience with your flock.
This entry was posted in Chickens
What is a chicken hatchery? How do they operate? Can anyone purchase chicks from a hatchery? How do you receive the chicks you’ve purchased? We’ve answered all of these questions and more in this informative guide to chicken hatcheries. And, if you’re considering purchasing chicks from a hatchery, we’ll help you determine how to choose a reputable one.
Chicken hatcheries are commercial operations that breed chickens, incubate their eggs, and sell the chicks they hatch. Some hatcheries breed and sell chicks all year round, while others may stick to the seasonal demand for chicks – usually in the spring.
There are no federal laws that govern chicken hatcheries (unless hatching eggs or chicks are being imported or exported), but individual states may have their own rules and regulations for hatcheries. Many states require chicks to be NPIP certified, or tested for certain diseases before being shipped or received.
The National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) was a program that was developed in 1935 as a state to federal cooperative testing endeavor to maintain healthy chicken-raising standards. NPIP-certified hatcheries such as Meyer Hatchery are those that routinely send flock samples to be tested for a wide range of avian illnesses. NPIP certification also requires a tour of the hatchery’s facility to ensure safe and sanitary practices are being followed. To maintain their NPIP certification, a hatchery must keep clean facilities and flocks free of the diseases they routinely test for.
Why choose a chicken hatchery?
If you’re looking for a specific breed, or want a wide selection of chicken breeds, a chicken hatchery may be your best option. Chicken hatcheries often offer an array of different breeds and colors patterns, and may even part with older hens that are ready for retirement. Chicks can be shopped for, purchased, and shipped all through the hatchery’s website, and will be delivered to your local post office.
Hatcheries are usually NPIP certified and should be breeding chicks that conform to breed standards. This makes for not only healthy chicks, but also those that are good examples of the breeds they represent. Chicken hatcheries are also a great resource for you as a flock raiser when you have questions about caring for a particular breed, and can help you choose breeds that are best suited for your climate and lifestyle.
Some chicken hatcheries may vaccinate their chicks (usually for Marek’s disease) before they leave for their new homes. Vaccines are not required for chicks in the US, but may be an option for a nominal fee, or be standard practice for a particular hatchery. If vaccinating is not in line with your flock-raising philosophy, be sure to ask the hatchery if they can refrain from vaccinating your chicks.
Top 5 questions answered about chicken hatcheries
For anyone who hasn’t ordered chicks from a chicken hatchery, the process can seem daunting. We’ve compiled a list of the most common questions and concerns that revolve around ordering chicks from a hatchery so that you can feel confident in your decision.
How do I choose a reputable chicken hatchery?
While just about anyone can hatch chicks from eggs, hatcheries should have a verifiable history of selling healthy chicks. To ensure further quality control, choose a hatchery that is NPIP certified. Just like you would with other businesses, look at a chicken hatchery’s online reviews or talk to customers that have purchased from them before. Pictures of past hatched chicks, their breeding stock, and their facility are all telling of the quality of the chicks they have to offer.
You can also call a chicken hatchery in order to feel confident about purchasing chicks from them. Ask questions like:
- How long have you been selling chicks?
- Do you keep your breeding stock on site?
- Are you NPIP certified?
- Do you vaccinate your chicks?
Keep a record of the answers to these questions for each hatchery that you contact. This will help you make the most informed decision when it comes time to order your chicks.
What kinds of chickens do hatcheries offer?
Most hatcheries offer many different breeds of chickens, while some may specialize in meat or laying breeds. Chicks may be purchased as young as 24 hours old, while some hatcheries may offer older chicks or hens. A chicken hatchery’s website should have a catalog of the breeds they raise, along with their pricing and shipping requirements.
Can anyone buy chicks from a hatchery anytime?
The majority of hatcheries offer their chicks to the general public. Anyone can purchase chicks from these hatcheries, but they may have minimum purchase quantities or seasonal requirements. Some hatcheries may also be unable to ship to certain states, depending on their regulations, weather patterns along the way, or time constraints.
Spring is traditionally the peak season for hatcheries, but raising chicks in the fall is rising in popularity. Certain breeds fare better in colder temperatures, and are more likely to be fully-feathered by the time winter makes its appearance. Talk with your hatchery to see which breeds they recommend to raise in the fall.
Where can I find a chicken hatchery?
A quick Google search may yield several options for chicken hatcheries near you, or options for hatcheries that ship chicks all over the country. Many hatcheries have websites for you to view and purchase from, and should have all of their certifications on display. If you find a hatchery close to you, make sure they meet your criteria.
Purchasing chicks from a chicken hatchery
You’ve chosen your chicken hatchery, picked out your chicks, and are now ready to complete your purchase. But now what happens? There are a couple of different options when it comes to receiving your chicks.
How will I receive my chicks?
There are 2 potential ways of obtaining your chicks that you’ve purchased from a chicken hatchery. They are:
Many hatcheries offer local pickup if you live close by – though be sure to ask if this is an option before placing your order. Picking your chicks up from the hatchery will save on shipping costs and the potential stress that chicks may encounter during shipping.
However, some hatcheries do not allow customers onsite in order to protect their flocks from potential contamination. This is one reason why shipping chicks is commonplace with many hatcheries. A chicken hatchery may also be willing to meet you in a neutral place for you to pick up your chicks. This eliminates the risk of contaminating their facility, but may not always be possible with their schedule.
If picking your chicks up is an option, make sure you have the following items ready in your vehicle:
- A small, closed container with ventilation
- Bedding or towel for the container
- Handwarmers under a towel if the temperatures are cold and the drive is more than an hour
Shipped chicks
Some hatcheries offer shipping, but the United States Postal Service (USPS) is the only carrier that will ship live chicks – and they have strict rules that must be adhered to. The current regulations for shipping live chicks require them to be no more than 24 hours old at the time of shipment, and no more than 72 hours old by the time they arrive. The USPS will ship and receive chicks beyond this window, but they must be at least 6 weeks old and weigh at least 6 oz. The reason for this is that chicks have nutrients that are absorbed from the yolk upon hatching, which wanes by the time they are 72 hours old. As for older chicks, at 6 weeks old, chicks are usually fully-feathered and can withstand the variable temperatures of shipping.
Hatcheries that ship chicks may have order minimums depending on the time of year. During the colder months, chicks need to be shipped in larger quantities so that they can huddle together for extra warmth. Hatcheries may also put heat packs in the shipping containers with them.
Conversely, hatcheries may not ship during certain months if the weather is too hot. A good chicken hatchery will be weather aware of the routes their chicks must follow and will ship accordingly. This can be tricky with the 24-hour age rule, so be sure to talk to the hatchery before placing your order.
All chicks shipped in the US will be delivered via USPS to your local post office. Once your chicks arrive, your post office will call you to come pick them up. Be sure that your schedule is clear on the day that your chicks will arrive – chicks cannot be left unattended at the post office. Open your box right away to ensure your chicks have arrived safely, and that they match the description of the breeds you selected.
Getting ready for your chicks to arrive
Getting your brooder pen set up is an excellent way to busy yourself while you wait for your chicks to arrive. Familiarize yourself with basic chick care, and make sure you have all of your supplies ready for their arrival. Here’s a quick checklist of the items needed for newly hatched chicks:
- A brooder pen
- Heat source (brooder plate or heat lamp)
- A thermometer to place on the side of the brooder
- Chick feed
- Chick grit
- Feeders and waterers designed for chicks
This is also a great time to be thinking about their permanent setup once they’re ready to leave their brooder. Once chicks are 12 weeks old, they’ll be ready to move into the Eglu Cube chicken coop for their permanent home. While your chicks are happily growing in the brooder, you can spend your time choosing the spot for their coop, assembling it, and familiarizing yourself with it before your chicks make the big move from brooder to coop.
Omlet and your hatchery chicks
It’s exciting to welcome new chicks home to a brooder, but what about when it’s time for them to move outdoors? Omlet’s Eglu Cube chicken coop is your all-in-one solution for chicks 12 weeks and older. Have confidence in ordering, caring for, and transitioning your chicken hatchery chicks when you rely on Omlet.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Worried about keeping chicks safe from predators? It’s a valid concern – chicks are more vulnerable to attacks from predators than full-grown hens, and they’re more naive to the wily ways of these skillful hunters. Thankfully, we’ve designed solutions to keep chicks safe from harm. Discover which predators pose the highest risk to young chicks, and see how Omlet can help keep even your smallest flock members safe.
Why are chicks a target for predators?
Chicks are an easy target for predators because of their size and lack of experience with other animals. While chickens are all born with an innate sense of danger, chicks learn a lot through experience or from example with a mother hen. Chicks raised in a brooder being handled by humans daily don’t have this learning opportunity.
You’ll notice most (if not all) chicks will be skittish of things that move quickly or make a sudden noise, like your hand or if you clear your throat. They’ll startle or scatter at the sight of a pet dog or cat, or may even be alarmed at your sudden presence over the brooder pen. These are all normal behaviors for a chick, which, unfortunately, are well-recognized by skilled predators. They’ll bide their time and are well practiced in moving in a stealthy manner to surprise their unsuspecting prey.
When can chicks move outside?
You can start moving your chicks outside once they are fully feathered, which usually occurs between 6-8 weeks of age for most breeds. Once they’ve reached this milestone, you can begin taking them outside for supervised stints to explore their coop and run. Choose warm, sunny days so that they don’t get chilled, and make sure you can stay with them for the entirety of their excursion.
It’s important to keep your chicks close by and in a fully enclosed area during their visits to the great outdoors. Predators will gladly take advantage of exposed or unprotected chicks. Chicks will draw attention from predators easily, as they will be excitedly pecking, hopping, and scratching around in their new environment. Because of this, it’s vital to make sure they are fully protected while outside.
Once chicks are 12 weeks old, they can move into their Omlet chicken coop full-time. This recommendation is based not only on a chick’s development, but also to ensure they are large enough to navigate the ladder of raised coops, or to be comfortable with heading in to roost on time.
5 chick predators
While any chicken predator can pose a risk to your chicks, there are some that are more apt to go after your small flock members because of their size. Similarly, the predators that would make a quick meal of a chick can also pose a threat to full-grown hens. But to help you better prepare your setup for your new flock members, we’ve compiled a list of predators that are likely to pose the most risk to your chicks in particular.
Rats
Rats may be small, but a young chick is no match for them. While they are normally scavengers, rats are also opportunistic eaters and won’t hesitate to go after a live chick if they’re hungry. One swift bite from a rat can spell the end for a chick.
The best way to keep rats away from your chicken coop is to make sure there is no food left out in the run overnight. Collect any uneaten chick food each evening and keep all feed in airtight containers. You can also offer treats in a Caddi Chicken Treat Holder and offer scratch grains in a chicken peck toy to prevent waste and keep the floor of the run clean.
Raccoons
Raccoons are notorious for reaching through the openings in runs to grab poultry. Their attacks are calculated and macabre – raccoons may only take the heads of their prey, leaving the rest of the carcass in the run. But, if chicks are small enough to fit through the openings, a raccoon will take their prey and leave no trace of their visit.
To keep chickens safe from raccoons, the attached run of the Eglu Cube has a tighter mesh pattern along the bottom of the run, that slowly graduates to larger openings as the mesh ascends. The doors are also fitted with t-locking handles that require opposable thumbs to open. This prevents raccoons from using their paws to grab chicks through the run, or turn the handles of the coop doors.
Snakes
Similar to raccoons, snakes will take advantage of small gaps or openings in chicken pens. One of the most common and troublesome reptiles that go after chicks are rat snakes – also aptly called “chicken snakes.” These non-venomous snakes can grow to be 42-72 inches in length, and use the method of constriction to immobilize their prey. While they prefer rodents or chicken eggs, they will happily constrict and swallow chicks.
As a general rule, snakes can get through any opening that their head fits in. To protect your chicks from snakes, you must have openings less than ½ inch along the bottom 4 feet of the run. And, if your run is around any shrubs or trees you’ll need this protection along the top as well – rat snakes are avid climbers and can get the drop on your coop. Chicken run covers can be used along with hardware cloth to help keep snakes out of the run.
Birds of prey
Birds of prey like hawks, eagles, or owls, primarily pose a risk of aerial attacks. These birds will swoop down and grab any small animal they think they can pick up. Some large birds have even been known to attack through the sides of a run much like a raccoon – grabbing any nearby chicks and pulling them through the opening.
The attached run of the Eglu Cube has a fully enclosed top to prevent attacks from above, and the tight mesh along the bottom protects your chicks from side-swiping efforts. Keep your chicks’ feed in airtight containers, and their feeders and waterers out of sight from birds of prey to not draw unwanted attention.
Domestic dogs and cats
Sometimes the biggest threat to your chicks can be a member of your own family. Dogs and cats can accidentally hurt chicks, or intentionally go after them if they have a high prey drive. Even calm dogs and cats can become easily excitable when they hear or see chicks in their backyard.
Keep your dog on a leash when introducing them to your chicks for the first time, and always through the safety of a sturdy barrier like the attached run of the Eglu Cube. Cats should also be monitored closely when they’re introduced to your chicks.
Keeping chicks safe
You’ve spent weeks taking care of your chicks in a brooder, so it’s only natural to be apprehensive when you first move them outside. From their first moments in their outdoor setup, you’ll want them to be as safe as possible.
By connecting a walk in chicken run to your Eglu Cube, your chicks will have plenty of protected space to explore and play in their new surroundings. And, just like the attached chicken runs of our chicken coops, the walk in chicken run features anti-dig skirting to prevent predators from tunneling in.
To add even more security to your Eglu Cube, an Automatic Chicken Coop Door can be integrated seamlessly for not just an automated schedule, but an extra layer of security. The horizontal opening mechanism makes it extremely difficult for predators to pry open, and your chicks will be tucked in safely each night on time – with or without you being there.
Omlet and keeping your flock safe
Omlet’s products have been designed with security at the forefront. Whether you have an existing flock that you’re adding chicks to or are getting chicks to begin your chicken-keeping journey, our products will keep them safe. The walk in chicken run, Autodoor, and Eglu Cube have all been designed to keep flocks of all stages and ages protected for a lifetime. When you choose an Omlet setup to house your chicks, it will be the only one you ever need.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chicken eggs are considered one of the healthiest food sources. Packed with essential nutrients and protein, it’s a staple in most family diets. But even more than a food source, chicken eggs are fun to gather, display, and hatch. Learn how to encourage your hens to lay beautiful eggs all year long, store these labors of love, and even hatch fertilized eggs with the help of an incubator or broody hen.
Creating the perfect environment for chicken egg laying
First and foremost, hens need a safe, quiet space to lay their eggs. Hens will naturally seek out the most suitable place to lay a chicken egg – so if a designated nesting area isn’t supplied to them, hens will venture off in search of the right spot. The ideal nesting area is in a covered space like a chicken coop, away from your flock’s active areas. Enclosed nesting boxes or spaces are preferred, as hens will instinctively want their eggs safe from chicken predators.
Omlet’s hen houses have designated nesting areas inside that are comfortable and secluded. Hens will feel safe inside of their enclosed coop’s nesting area, and with the rest of the flock out for the day, will have the privacy needed to encourage egg laying.
How to encourage egg laying
Good laying hens can produce over 250 eggs per year without much supplemental encouragement. As long as they have adequate space and nutrition, their natural egg-laying cycles should remain intact. Aim to give your flock as much space as possible outside of the coop, whether free-ranging with the help of chicken fencing or in a chicken run.
Laying hens should have a diet consisting of:
- Quality scratch grains and chicken treats offered daily
- Access to fresh, clean water in a chicken waterer
- Free-choice of high-quality layer pellets or crumbles, with protein levels between 16%-18% depending on their breed
- Fresh greens or grass as often as possible
What to do if your hens stop laying eggs
If you notice fewer eggs in the nesting area, it’s time to perform a health check on your chickens. Any hens with noticeable discomfort should be quarantined, and you should contact your veterinarian. If all of your hens appear healthy, there are 6 other ways to boost egg production among your flock:
- Offer chicken supplements
- Increase the protein of your hens’ diet
- Switch to a different feed
- Make sure your hens are visiting the nesting box, as they could be laying eggs elsewhere
- If you have a broody hen among your flock, it may affect your other hens’ cycles
- Make sure your hens are not molting, as egg production will decrease for several weeks during a molt
If these methods don’t help or give you insight into any potential issues, contact your veterinarian.
How and when to collect your hens’ eggs
It’s important to collect your chickens eggs daily. Eggs left in nesting areas are at risk of being cracked or broken by multiple hens using the nest. And, eggs left in the coop may draw in pests or predators like rats or snakes.
How often hens lay eggs
Good laying hens will produce an egg approximately every day and a half. The majority of hens will lay their eggs in the late morning or early afternoon hours, but there may be some stragglers toward the end of the day. It’s very uncommon for hens to lay their eggs overnight. This means that early evening would be the best time to check your coop for chicken eggs.
If you’re concerned about how long your hens’ eggs can stay in the coop, try to collect them at least once a day. But, in general, eggs are still safe to consume even if they are left to sit in the coop for several days. The hot summer months will reduce this timeframe, but eggs are still safe to consume after exposure to the heat. Winter months pose a challenge due to the risk of eggs freezing in the coop. If your area experiences prolonged temperatures below freezing, you may want to check your coop several times a day before eggs have a chance to freeze solid.
Daily egg collections
Daily egg collections will also help deter hens from going broody. If you want to keep hens from becoming broody, remove any eggs from under a hen that has been sitting for longer than usual to lay an egg. Be cautious – even the most docile hens can get aggressive when protecting a clutch of eggs they’ve decided to sit on.
How to tell if a chicken egg is fertilized
Eggs require a rooster in order to be fertilized. Roosters fertilize the eggs before they are laid, so if you have a rooster in your flock, there’s a potential for any of your hens’ eggs to be fertilized.
There are some misconceptions about roosters, eggs, and fertilization. The most common ones are:
- Hens do NOT need a rooster to produce eggs – they will lay eggs regardless
- Not all chicken eggs will be fertilized if you have a rooster in your flock
- The only way to know if a freshly laid egg is fertilized is to crack it open
If you’re interested in hatching your own chicken eggs, the best method is to pay attention to the eggs you’re eating. When you crack them open, look for a “bullseye” pattern in the yolk. This subtle change that appears as a target will be your clue that the egg is fertilized. If you notice most of the eggs you’re cracking are fertilized, start saving a few to place in an incubator. After 1 week in the incubator, you’ll be able to candle the eggs to see if there is embryonic development.
How to hatch eggs
Hatching your own eggs is an exciting experience. If you choose to incubate your eggs instead of having a broody hen sit on them, you’ll be able to document their progress by using an egg candler. This special light will help you see how the chicks are developing, and will help you dispose of any unfertilized eggs before they spoil and burst.
To hatch your own chicken eggs, you’ll need:
- An incubator
- Thermometer (if not included in your incubator)
- Hygrometer to monitor humidity level
- Egg candler (optional)
Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch from the time of incubation. It’s best to place eggs in the incubator as soon as possible, but if you must store eggs before incubation, they can be kept in temperatures between 55-65℉ for up to 7 days.
On day 18 of incubation, you’ll want to “lockdown” your incubator. This means you’ll add water if needed (humidity levels need to increase to 65-70% in the final 3 days before hatching). Turn off any automatic turners, or stop hand-turning your eggs on day 18, and place a non-slip covering on the hatching floor of your incubator so that newly hatched chicks do not develop splayed legs. A paper towel or non-slip shelf liner that will allow ventilation are both good options.
Taking care of chicks once they’ve hatched
Once your chicks have hatched, be sure to leave them in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy. This will ensure they don’t get chilled when they’re moved to their brooder pen. The nutrients that fed chicks while they were inside of their eggs will sustain them for up to 48 hours after hatching, so it’s safe to allow them to fully dry before moving them.
When raising newly hatched chicks, make sure you have:
- A secure brooder pen with a top to prevent escapes
- A heat source like a brooder plate or lamp
- Chick starter crumbles – medicated or non-medicated depending on your preference
- Chick-specific feeders and waterers
- Absorbent bedding like pine shavings or pellets
- Adequate time to check in on your chicks daily
Chicks can be quite messy as they work on their coordination. Waterers should be checked frequently for debris to make sure they have access to clean water, and feed should be refreshed. Growing up is tough work, and chicks will need to consume a lot of feed.
The benefits of having your own egg-laying chickens
There are many benefits to keeping your own chickens, like:
There’s nothing like gathering freshly laid eggs from your own flock of chickens. Proudly display your hens’ labors of love in an egg skelter on your kitchen counter, or gift friends and family members with small packs of eggs.
Best breeds for egg laying
There are many different breeds of chickens, many of which are known for their proficiency in laying eggs. Some of the best breeds for egg laying include:
Chickens that are bred for ornamental purposes will still lay eggs, but at a much lower volume than laying breeds. Bantam (miniature varieties of full-sized breeds) also lay eggs, but they are much smaller and less frequent than their full-sized counterparts.
Cleaning your eggs with care
Storing fresh chicken eggs depends on how quickly they’ll be used, and as a matter of personal preference. There are two main ways to keep backyard eggs fresh:
- Leaving them unwashed and set out at room temperature
- Washing them and storing them in the refrigerator
It’s very important that any eggs left out at room temperature remain unwashed. Introducing eggs to water or cleaning solution removes the bloom (microscopic protective barrier) from the shell. Egg shells are semipermeable – meaning air and moisture can pass in and out. Once the bloom has been washed off, the eggshell loses its natural barrier to keep harmful bacteria out.
Unwashed eggs can also be stored in the refrigerator, but washed eggs must be stored in the refrigerator to remain fresh. That’s why store-bought eggs are refrigerated – they have all been washed.
If you choose to wash your eggs, you can either make a DIY egg cleaning solution from vinegar or purchase ready-made egg cleaning products. Or, if you want to simply use water, soak your eggs in warm water, as this will help keep bacteria from entering through the pores of the shell. After a nice soak, gently rub your eggs with a cloth or soft-bristled brush. Dry with a towel, and promptly place your cleaned eggs in the fridge.
Chicken egg color guide
Did you know your hens’ eggshell colors are the result of genetics? Hens will lay the same colored eggs their entire lives. Some breeds are bred to lay specific colors, while other breeds differ from hen to hen. Sometimes nutrition or health changes can subtly impact the color or appearance of your hens’ eggs, but you should expect consistency from your hens.
Common chicken eggshell colors include white or cream, and browns in various hues. Chicken eggs can also be blue, green, and even pink. Most eggs are a solid color, but some breeds like Marans, Barnevelders, and Welsummers can lay speckled eggs.
Your hens’ eggs tell about their health. Sometimes misshapen, discolored, or eggs laid with shell anomalies point to a nutritional deficit. If you notice your hens laying eggs that aren’t consistent with their previous appearances, it’s best to evaluate their diet.
Frequently asked questions about chicken eggs
How frequently do chickens lay eggs?
Every hen is different, but peak age for most laying hens is around a year and a half through 2 or 3 years of age. During that time, a good laying hen should produce anywhere from 250-350 eggs per year depending on their genetics. Egg production will decrease as hens age, and will also dip or stop altogether during their yearly molting cycle. Some hens may also decrease egg production in the wintertime to reallocate energy to stay warm.
Do chickens stop laying at a certain age?
Depending on their breed, most chickens will stop laying eggs by the time they are 4 or 5 years old. There are some breeds of chickens that will lay well into their later years, while others will drastically decrease production by year 3 or 4.
How do chickens lay eggs?
Chickens ovulate in order to lay an egg. Ovulation takes about 24 hours to complete, and starts in the ovary. The yolk is formed first, then passes through the oviduct where it is surrounded by the white (also called the albumen). Finally, the egg is encased in its shell inside of the hen’s uterus (or “shell gland”). Shell formation takes roughly 20 hours, after which the egg is laid by the hen via the cloaca or “vent”. All excretions from the hen exit through the vent, but during egg laying a hens’ uterine lining stays with the egg until it has been deposited – keeping it nice and clean.
Do chickens eat their own eggs?
Hens may begin to eat their own eggs for the following reasons:
- Nutritional deficiencies – usually low calcium intake
- Dehydration
- Boredom
- Stress
- Feeling unsafe in the nesting area
Keep your hens from eating their eggs by supplementing their diet with calcium. Crushed oyster shells can be purchased from feed stores, or you can save the eggshells from eggs you are using to crush and feed back to your hens for a boost in calcium. Always make sure your hens have plenty of fresh water to ward off dehydration.
Provide boredom-busting activities with chicken toys, and make sure your hens are housed in secure chicken coops and chicken runs. Hens that don’t feel safe may eat their eggs to hide evidence of their presence from chicken predators. Consider installing an automatic chicken coop door to make your hens’ feel more secure in their home.
Get more chicken eggs with Omlet
All of our chicken products are designed to promote safety, comfort, and security for hens, and for ease of use for their caretakers. Healthy, happy hens lay more eggs – so give them plenty to occupy their busy minds. A walk in chicken run gives your flock ample room outside of the coop to forage and play. Add a Chicken Swing to give your hens a unique place to relax in between egg-laying sessions, and to provide versatility in their space.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chicks are generally associated with springtime, but have you thought about raising chicks in the fall? Getting an earlier start to raising your chicks means they’ll start laying their first eggs during the spring, and watching chicks grow during the winter months is a welcome change from an otherwise stagnant season for growth. Of course, there are a few modifications to be made when starting out with chicks in the fall instead of spring, but with the right setup, your fall chicks will successfully grow into spring chickens.
Benefits of raising chicks in fall
Like spring, fall is a season of change. In nature, birds (your hens included) are more likely to sit on a nest of eggs in the spring, knowing there will be lush vegetation and warmer weather for their chicks to thrive in. But, with a helping human hand, those conditions can be simulated in your own backyard.
Cooler temperatures for brooders
This consideration is especially important for flock-raisers in warmer climates. Since chicks need to be kept under a heat source until they are fully feathered, the added heat in already warm weather can turn dangerous in a hurry. Chicks may succumb to heat stroke if they get too warm in their brooder – particularly closed brooder pens. In the mild temperatures of fall, your chicks aren’t at risk of overheating from the weather in addition to their brooder plate or lamp.
Fully feathered before winter
Chicks are fully feathered by 6-12 weeks, depending on their breed. By the time they are 12 weeks old, they are ready to move into their Eglu Cube chicken coop. With the dual-layer insulation of the Eglu Cube, you’ll feel confident about moving your young adult hens to their outdoor setup, knowing they’ll be warm in the falling temperatures.
You’ll still want to coordinate when to move your chicks outside with the weather. Choose a week where the lows at night will be 50℉ or above to help their transition easier. Most chicks hatched in September will be ready to move into their Eglu Cube by November – which is well in advance of most areas experiencing frigid temperatures.
Fresh eggs by spring
When chicks are hatched in the spring, their long-awaited first egg usually does not make its appearance until late summer. And, since some climates see scorching summer temperatures, sometimes their first eggs are delayed until the fall. Egg production is difficult for a newly-mature hen to master while trying to keep their energy expenditure to a minimum.
Your fall chicks will be able to supply your family with fresh eggs by the time spring comes around. And, since they’ll have a season of egg laying under their belts, the likelihood of them continuing their egg production through the summer is much higher than if they had just gotten started. And, with a fun accessory like an egg skelter, your kitchen will be ready for spring and a steady supply of eggs.
Preparation for raising chicks in fall
Obtaining chicks in the fall may be slightly more difficult than in the spring. Large retailers that usually sell chicks in the spring will likely not carry chicks any other time of the year. But, hatcheries typically ship chicks all year round, depending on your location. Their breed selection may be more limited in the fall, so be sure to ask if you can request a particular breed, or if the breed you intend to raise will be available.
Other options include:
- Incubating fertilized eggs (purchased from a breeder, or from your own flock if you have a rooster)
- Buying chicks from individuals or breeders
Some breeders may have waiting lists in preparation for the slower seasons, to reach out sooner rather than later to secure your chicks.
Safely raising chicks in fall
Fall may be an “off-season” for chicks, but that doesn’t mean that chicks can’t be successfully and safely raised this time of the year. In fact, in some parts of the US, it may actually be more beneficial to raise chicks in the fall instead of the spring.
Predator activity
Predators are much more active in the spring than in the fall. Those that are still active in the fall will decrease their movement as the temperatures decline – which means by the time your chicks are old enough to move to their outdoor setup. While your chicks are in their brooder, you can make adjustments to their chicken coop and run to make it more predator resistant – without having extra vegetation making modifications more difficult.
Dietary considerations
Chicks don’t need rich foods like treats or insects until they have grown accustomed to their feed. If offered these foods too soon, they will prefer them over the balanced diet that laying pellets or crumbles provide. Fall and winter offer much fewer insects and grazing opportunities than springtime – ensuring your chicks will adhere and grow to love their diet that you’ve painstakingly planned out for them.
This same school of thought applies to any adult hens you may adopt during the fall. As part of your fall chicken coop preparations, you can make sure your new additions grow accustomed to the new diet they’re offered. By spring, they’ll be familiar with and well nourished by their laying feed.
Omlet and your fall chicks
No matter what time of the year, Omlet makes it safe and enjoyable to raise chickens. With our safe and comfortable Eglu chicken coop and run and Chicken coop weather protection, your fall chicks will be ready for the wintertime in their outdoor setup. Be sure to grab an egg skelter along with your chicks for the fall – you’ll be needing it to display those fresh eggs by the beginning of spring.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Keeping chickens is a great pastime for people of all ages and walks of life. Backyard chicken keeping is rising in popularity, with more states and cities allowing small flocks in residential areas. With a few tips and tricks and a great setup, you can enjoy keeping your own flock of chickens in your own backyard.
Are chickens the right pets for me?
Some of the things you’ll need to consider before keeping chickens are:
Chickens make wonderful pets that provide entertainment, companionship, and of course, eggs. The time needed to keep hens healthy and happy is flexible – and largely dependent on the breeds you’ve chosen and how you choose to keep your chickens. You can plan to spend anywhere from 1 to 4 hours per day tending to your flock.
Your flock will thrive on as much space you can feasibly provide them with. Hens naturally want to explore, forage, and scratch around in the earth, so the bigger the area, the more room for these activities.
Which chicken breed should I choose?
These breeds need more space than other breeds due to their desire to run and forage, or their size. Breeds that do well in confinement or smaller spaces include:
Chicken keeping laws
Laws concerning keeping chickens may apply to you if you live in a neighborhood – particularly if you’re part of a homeowners association (HOA). Each state has their own laws regarding keeping chickens, and each city may have different laws within a state. And, just because your state and city allow chickens doesn’t mean your HOA does – be sure to contact your city zoning office and HOA board before getting chickens to see what the rules are. Rules about flocks of chickens will likely include:
Where to buy hens & chicks
You can obtain your flock from breeders and hatcheries year-round, or from feed supply stores during the spring and summer months. Breeders may have adult hens for purchase, or you may be able to adopt grown chickens from individuals and rescue groups.
Chicks are fluffy and cute, and it may be tempting to start out with chicks instead of adult hens, but they require extra care and supplies that grown chickens do not. To raise chicks you’ll need:
- A special enclosure called a brooder pen
- Heat lamps or brooding plates
- Chick-specific feeders and waterers
- Feed formulated for chicks
Chicks need a heat source until they’re between 6 and 12 weeks old, depending on their breed. During this time they must be kept in their brooder pen and out of the elements, with short visits outside to slowly acclimate them to their environment.
Raising chicks can be rewarding, but if you don’t want to wait several months for your first eggs, or have to go through the process of keeping chicks in a brooder, starting with adult hens may be the best choice for you. Adult hens can go straight to your setup. And, with most breeds beginning to lay eggs by 16-20 weeks of age, older hens will be able to provide eggs for your family right away.
Choosing a coop
The best beginner chicken coop is one that will last a lifetime, with the ability to grow and be customized to accommodate your flock. Large chicken coops are best to start with, so that you have plenty of room to add to your flock, and to give your existing hens as much space as possible.
Omlet’s chicken coops have everything you need to get started keeping chickens. When choosing your chicken coop, you’ll want to weigh what is most important. Safety, comfort, and functionality should never be compromised in your chickens’ coop. When choosing between a wooden and plastic chicken coop, consider all of the upkeep involved with a wooden coop, and how difficult they are to clean. Our plastic chicken coops are easy to clean and keep your flock comfortable and protected all year round.
Choosing a chicken run
A chicken run will benefit your flock in many ways. From keeping them out of your prized flowers, to keeping them protected from predators, chicken runs help keep your hens healthy and happy. And, with the right chicken run, it will make keeping chickens even easier.
Walk in chicken runs are perfect for both keepers and flocks. They’re tall enough to give you access to walk with your flock, and offer enough space for them to exercise and explore their surroundings. All of our walk in runs feature anti-dig skirting to help prevent predators from tunneling in, and are fully enclosed with roof panels. And, with walk in chicken run extensions and chicken weather protection it’s easy to customize their experience and keep them sheltered from the elements.
Keeping your chickens protected from predators
Chickens are animals of prey, so it’s up to their keepers to keep them safe from predators. Along with a strong chicken coop and predator-resistant chicken run, an automatic chicken coop door is an extra layer of protection against invaders. Chicken predators are most active at night, so by having a coop door that closes automatically either based on the sun or a certain time, you’ll make sure they’re tucked in tight when they’re at their most vulnerable.
Keeping your chickens fed & watered
Chicken feeders and drinkers are an essential part of keeping chickens. They should be elevated enough to deter hungry rodents, and have a covering to keep moisture out and to prevent your hens from tossing food around. Chickens should be offered quality layer pellets free-choice, along with occasional chicken treats.
Your flock should also have clean, fresh water available at all times. In the summer, toss ice cubes into their waterers to keep them cool. In the winter, break ice often to make sure your hens have access to thawed water.
Entertaining your flock
Like most pets, chickens enjoy toys. It’s a way for them to entertain themselves and engage both their bodies and brains. Our unique flock favorites include:
When you add these enrichment items to your hens’ space, you’re adding joy for everyone. There’s nothing quite like watching your chickens exhibit their natural behaviors through play.
Encouraging egg production
When provided with quality food and safe housing, hens will start laying sometime between 16-20 weeks of age. There are ways to encourage your hens to lay eggs during periods of stress, but healthy hens will lay all year round with the exception of molting season (usually mid-late fall). Your chickens’ eggs can remain in the coop for several days without compromising their nutritional value, but gathering them daily is the best practice.
Store fresh, unwashed eggs at room temperature for weeks, or even longer in the refrigerator. Egg skelters are unique and functional display pieces to showcase the fruits of your laying hens’ labor.
A typical chicken-keeping routine
Your daily routine with your flock will probably look something like this:
Morning
- Let chickens out of their coop
- Dump the droppings tray, wipe it down, and refresh bedding
- Top off feeders and waterers for the day
Afternoon
- Check for eggs
- Ensure water is fresh and at a palatable temperature
Evening
- Ensure your hens are in their coop for the night
- Remove any leftover food from the run to discourage rodents from visiting
You’ll quickly learn the best time to offer treats and socialize with your hens based on their personalities. Some hens are more active in the morning, while others may be more willing to socialize in the evenings. Hens will usually lay their eggs late morning through late afternoon, and it’s best to give them their privacy during this time. Plan coop cleanings around your flock’s laying schedule.
Common chicken health problems
Chickens are generally hardy pets that are resilient in many climates and conditions. Healthy chickens are bright and alert with good appetites and a predictable laying schedule. And, your hens’ eggs can be a good indicator of their overall health.
There are no mandatory chicken vaccines in the US, and very few are approved for use in backyard flocks. The best way to keep your hens healthy is to perform regular chicken health checks. If you find anything unusual or suspect your chicken is ill, report your findings to your veterinarian.
Rarely, backyard flocks can contract avian flu, which is spread through the droppings and saliva of wild birds. Since there is no treatment for avian flu in chickens, covering your chickens’ run is the best way to prevent them from contracting the illness.
What to avoid when chicken keeping
Keeping chickens should be relaxing and enjoyable for both the flock and their owners. To eliminate potential stress while tending to your hens, avoid:
- Starting out with roosters
- Buying a wooden chicken coop that will rot and need constant repairs
- Setups without enough space for your flock
- Coops and runs that cannot be added onto or customized later
Chicken keeping with Omlet
Omlet is here to support you through your chicken-keeping journey – right from the beginning. From our fun and quirky chicken clothing to our practical and beloved chicken perches, we’ve got everything you need to get the most out of your newly forged relationships with your backyard flock. So sit back, relax, and know that Omlet is here to make keeping chickens easier and better than ever.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Summer is a great time to enjoy your chickens. But along with the summer fun comes sweltering heat and high humidity for many chicken keepers. Being aware of the signs of heatstroke in chickens can keep your flock safe and enable you to enjoy the warmer months along with them.
What is chicken heatstroke?
Heatstroke is what animals, including chickens, can experience when they become overheated to the point of it causing internal organ failure. Also known as heat exhaustion, heatstroke in chickens is more than just a hot hen — it’s the result of their body temperatures being elevated beyond a safe level for an extended period of time. Chickens that are too hot for too long simply can’t cool themselves anymore, and will succumb to heat exhaustion. When not treated properly and promptly, heatstroke can quickly become fatal to any affected hens. It’s important to help your chickens stay cool in the summer to avoid their body temperatures reaching this dangerous level.
Are any chicken breeds more susceptible to heatstroke?
Some breeds of chickens are more heat tolerant than others. The breeds that tend to not fare as well in hot climates are those that are bred primarily for meat such as Jersey Giants, and Delewares. Most egg-laying breeds of chickens do well in the hot weather as long as they have the right provisions — though some may need a little more support than others.
Silkies are a breed that doesn’t thrive in hot weather. This is largely due to their unusual feathers, as they can’t circulate air as proficiently as their regular-feathered cousins. Their head plumage can also obstruct their vision, making it more difficult for them to find water readily. Heavy breeds like Brahmas and Orpingtons may also struggle more in the heat due to their size.
Heat hardiness also depends on where chickens are raised. Hens that are adapted to the heat will fare much better than those that were relocated from a cooler climate to a warmer one. If you’re adding new chickens to your flock and experience intense heat in the summer, it’s best to obtain hens that are already accustomed to the warmer temperatures.
How to prevent chicken heatstroke
The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is applicable when protecting your flock from heatstroke. One of the most important methods of keeping your hens cool in the heat is proper coop ventilation. Traditional wooden coops get stuffy and humid, keeping hens hot and uncomfortable. This can spell trouble quickly when the temperatures rise.
The Eglu Cube chicken coop by Omlet provides ample ventilation to move cooler air into the coop, which helps keep the internal temperature down. You’ll also want to provide as much shade as possible in your chickens’ run. This will help keep their body temperatures down, as well as keeping water sources cooler. Other preventative measures to combat heatstroke in chickens include:
- Providing plenty of fresh, cool water
- Letting your chickens dust bathe
- Offering frozen treats like corn or other chicken-safe vegetables
- Adding electrolytes to their water
- Frequently checking in on your flock to see how they are faring
6 signs of heatstroke in chickens
Recognizing heatstroke in chickens quickly can make all the difference when treating it. Overheated chickens need prompt care in order to make a full recovery, so be on the lookout for the following signs of heatstroke in your flock.
1. Decrease in egg production
Chickens take their jobs of supplying eggs for your family seriously, so if they slow down or stop producing eggs then there is likely something amiss. Summertime is not part of a usual molting season for chickens — which is the only natural reason for young (non-broody) hens to stop laying eggs. You should investigate the cause of any decrease in egg laying by your hens, especially in the summer months, as this can be a warning sign to your flock getting too hot.
2. Lethargy
Hens that aren’t willing to move, seem dull, or appear sluggish should be evaluated for heatstroke. When hens are merely resting they will be stirred easily by food or human contact. Lethargic hens may be slow to respond or refuse to get up for food or after a gentle nudge from their owner.
3. Panting
The open-mouthed breathing associated with dogs is actually a cooling mechanism employed by chickens as well. While chickens may not loll their tongues out of their mouths, they will pant with their beaks open. Panting for short periods of time is a natural response to the heat, but keep a close eye on your flock if you notice panting. Offer cool water or frozen treats when you first notice them displaying this behavior.
4. Increased thirst
Are your flocks draining their drinkers? It’s good for chickens to drink more water during the summer, but make sure their waterers stay full and clean. Chickens can become dehydrated quickly on a hot day, and if their thirst can’t be slaked they will deteriorate rapidly. If you notice that you’re filling your flock’s drinkers much more often than usual, it could be a sign that they’re getting too hot.
5. Reduced feed intake
Healthy chickens also take eating very seriously. Any hens off of their feed need to be checked thoroughly. Make sure your chickens have access to quality laying pellets at all times, and offer frozen treats and fresh fruits and veggies often during the summer. Scratch grains are best offered in the evenings, as these grains increase your chickens’ metabolisms, which causes their bodies to heat up. The amount you feed your chickens should not need to be adjusted in the warmer months, and you can expect healthy hens to go through the same amount of feed as they normally would. Many animals (chickens included) will naturally eat less during the warm months, but it should not make a significant difference to your flock’s feeder.
6. Wings outstretched
Chickens don’t have sweat glands, so they have to find creative ways to expel heat from their bodies. Panting is one way, but stretching their wings or holding their feathers more erect is another. This allows more air circulation around their bodies and through their feathers in an effort to bring their core temperature down.
All of these symptoms can be signs of chicken heatstroke, but they can also point to other problems that can plague your hens. Familiarize yourself with chicken ailments so that you’ll be able to differentiate between conditions that may require different treatments.
How to treat chicken heatstroke
Preventing heatstroke in chickens is the best way to combat it. But, should you find any of your flock presenting with symptoms of heatstroke, you’ll need to act quickly. And, if the following actions don’t have your hen improving, it’s time to call your veterinarian.
First, you’ll need to move any affected hens to a cool, shaded area. It may be tempting to bring them indoors, but cooling them down too quickly can actually cause them to go into shock — which can be lethal.
If your hen is conscious and compliant, you can fill a bucket with enough cool (not ice-cold) water to submerge them from their neck down. It’s very important to not use very cold water, as cooling a hot hen down too quickly can cause them to go into shock, which is often fatal. After this brief soak, place the hen in a cool, shaded area until they are acting normally once again.
Omlet and keeping your hens safe
The Eglu Cube chicken coop by Omlet was designed to keep your hens cool in summer and warm in the winter. We want hens all over the world to be comfortable all year round. By putting chicken run covers over your flock’s outdoor space and providing them with the twin-insulated Eglu Cube, both you and your birds will be able to get back to enjoying a carefree summer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
The best automatic chicken coop door is one that serves vital purposes. One that is programmable to fit your schedule, provides a layer of protection from predators, and opens horizontally with built-in safety sensors. See exactly how an Autodoor can revolutionize your chicken-keeping routine.
Why your chicken coop needs an automatic door
An automatic chicken coop door turns your ordinary coop into a technologically advanced smart hen house. Like a personal chicken coop concierge, the best automatic chicken coop door keeps your hens on schedule and protected while they roost. The addition of an Autodoor will:
There are different types of automatic chicken coop doors, but there’s a clear choice for the best option when it comes to flock comfort and safety.
The Best Automatic Chicken Coop Door from Omlet
The Autodoor by Omlet has been thoughtfully designed. Made of heavy-duty, rot and rust-free materials, it’s easy to clean and will last a lifetime. The ingenious horizontally opening screw-style gearing makes it incredibly difficult for predators to pry open.
Omlet’s Autodoor also increases the insulating effects of our Eglu Cube, and is designed to integrate into it seamlessly without having to remove the existing door. The Autodoor can also be installed on an existing wooden chicken coop, Omlet chicken runs, or on traditional chicken wire runs.
What do our ambassadors say?
Our Ambassadors are Omlet customers turned chicken keeping product experts.
They are on hand to answer questions on our Automatic door and to share their experiences of their Omlet journey and how they use our coops. You can locate an ambassador near you to get the answers that matter most to you and your flock.
Explore the best of the Autodoor
Light sensors for dawn/dusk automation
Want to sleep in or stay out late, but still have your flock tended to? The Autodoor can keep your hens on schedule based on the sun. And, since chickens seek out their roosting space based on the amount of daylight, you’ll never need to worry about changing the Autodoor’s settings when winter comes around. The various hours of sunlight during the year will prompt the Autodoor to close at the desired light level – no matter the season. And, the sophisticated Autodoor takes into account storms or overcast conditions, ensuring the door doesn’t close during brief fluctuations in lighting.
Set your own schedule
Some flocks roost at the same time each day rather than waiting for the sun to go down. If your hens prefer to turn in early, the clock setting may be the best option. Simply choose the designated time to open and close each day, and the Autodoor will see that your chickens keep to their schedule.
Install on both wooden & plastic coops
Additional fixings packs can be purchased to install the Autodoor on our plastic chicken coops, runs, or traditional chicken wire, making our door a universal fit. Install it on any existing traditional wooden chicken coop or Omlet chicken coop attached run – which makes it easy to transfer from a wooden coop to an Eglu Cube when you upgrade.
Predator resistant
The best automatic chicken coop door keeps your flock safe from chicken predators. By securing the coop door each night, your hens will be protected during the most active time for predators, like raccoons or coyotes.
Protecting your flock from raccoons poses a particularly difficult challenge, as they are very adept at prying doors open. However, the horizontal opening of the Autodoor is much more difficult to pry than other automatic chicken coop doors that open vertically. And, with the spiral gear mechanism instead of a pulley system, the Omlet Autodoor will stump even the most persistent of predators.
Reliable in heat & cold alike
Worried about the weather? The Autodoor withstands all weather conditions and temperatures. The door will still function in sub-freezing temperatures, effectively keeping your flock warm in the winter. With fewer daylight hours, your flock will stay toasty in their hen house until the desired daylight levels or scheduled time is reached. Additionally you can explore tips on winterizing your chicken coop to ensure it is ready for the colder season.
In the summer, the Autodoor will let your hens out during the cooler morning temperatures to help your flock through the warmer months. The longer daylight hours mean your chickens will be able to enjoy a breeze and shade outside of the coop for as long as possible. Yet, still being protected and kept comfortable at night.
Built-in safety sensors
Sophisticated safety sensors ensure your hens aren’t accidentally caught in the closing Autodoor. If any part of a hen is obstructing the Autodoor, it will re-open and attempt to close again a few minutes later. The gentle bump from the Autodoor is usually enough to get your hens moving if they’re resting on the threshold, and soon they’ll learn their schedule so they don’t dawdle at the door.
Pair your Autodoor with a coop your flock adores
When you pair the best chicken coop with the best automatic chicken coop door, you’ll ensure your flock has the absolute best setup. Our Eglu Cube coop and the Autodoor are made for each other!
The Autodoor installs quickly and easily on the Eglu Cube, without requiring any additional attachment kits. And, due to the integrated design, there’s no need to remove the existing swivel Eglu Cube coop door. In fact, the standard coop door can still be opened and closed separately from the Autodoor.
Omlet’s chicken coops are predator-resistant, dual-insulated, and provide optimum ventilation for your flock’s comfort.
The best chicken care with Omlet
Omlet creates the best chicken products available. Designed for a lifetime of ease and comfort, our chicken runs, chicken tractors, and hen houses set you up for success from the beginning and all throughout your chicken-keeping journey. Choose the best automatic chicken coop door and other poultry products from Omlet, and help your hens live their best lives.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Daily chicken care can be an enjoyable activity. More of a hobby than a chore, caring for your flock should be something you look forward to every day. Chickens are relatively low-maintenance animals, but like all pets, require daily care to live their best lives.
Wondering what a day in the life of a chicken keeper looks like? We’ve compiled sample schedules that showcase how Omlet makes tending to your flock easy and enjoyable.
Morning chicken-keeping care
What if you could clean your chicken coop in the same amount of time that it takes you to prepare your morning cup of coffee or tea? With the Eglu Cube Chicken Coop by Omlet, you can! Your flock’s morning care routine couldn’t be easier or more efficient than with the Eglu Cube. Not only is our chicken coop easy to clean, but the included feeders and waterers hold plenty of sustenance for your flock to get them through the day.
Imagine if you will, a typical morning chicken care routine for a keeper with an Eglu Cube…
- Your day may start around 8:00 am. You’ll want to let your hens out to seize the day and open up their nesting partition door once they’ve vacated the coop.
- Then it’s time to clean the chicken coop out, but since you’ve got a sophisticated, easy-to-clean coop, it’s no problem. You’ll remove the droppings tray, and dump it in your compost pile or garbage.
- You’ll then want to spray or wipe the droppings tray and removable roosting rack clean if needed.
- Time to refresh the bedding in the tray, and replace the now-clean components back into the Cube.
- Finally, you’ll just need to top off your flock’s feeders and waterers for the day.
These tasks only take minutes for you to finish – likely before your coffee pot or tea kettle is done with your morning pick-me-up.
Afternoon chicken-keeping care
Your mid-day chicken check-in can be quick and easy. Hens usually lay eggs during the late morning and early afternoon hours, so mid-late afternoon is prime time for collecting cackleberries. The Eglu Cube has a convenient access door on the side that opens directly into the nesting area for quick egg-collecting.
Afternoon is also the perfect time to watch your hens in action. If you provide them with an assortment of chicken toys and accessories, you’ll be able to observe them play, peck, and perch throughout the day. Our customizable PoleTree Chicken Perch is perfect for your hens to catch a view of the world from an elevated place, or to take a quick nap in the afternoon sunshine.
When you head out to check for eggs, consider taking your flock a snack in the Caddi Chicken Treat Holder. This unique treat dispenser elevates snacktime and is great for keeping the floor of your flock’s run clean and tidy. Serve up fresh veggies or leafy greens to supply your chickens with enrichment and nutrition.
Evening chicken-keeping care
When daylight dwindles, it’s time to wrap up your flock’s day. For maximum safety, close the door to the coop overnight. If you aren’t home to tuck your hens in, consider adding an Automatic Chicken Coop Door.
The Autodoor in action:
- The Autodoor can be programmed with the clock or the sun to keep your flock on schedule – with or without you being home.
- Sophisticated safety sensors prevent the Autodoor from closing on any hens that are crossing or sitting on the threshold of the Eglu Cube.
- The sideways opening mechanism increases flock safety by making it difficult for predators to pry the door open.
Imagine how simple your evening routine would be with an Eglu Cube:
- You’ll close your hens in at dusk, or just after dark. If you’re using an Autodoor, you may just take a nice evening walk and check to make sure all of your hens made it in for bedtime.
- As a matter of personal preference, you may want to slide the nesting area partition door closed to prevent hens from roosting in it overnight.
- Finally, you’ll probably want to collect and store your flock’s leftovers to reduce raids from rodents.
And just like that, your flock is tucked into their comfy coop for another night of restful sleep.
Housing your hens in an Eglu Cube keeps them safe not just overnight, but during storms and predator attacks as well. But just how sturdy are Eglu Cubes? Strong enough to withstand attacks from a bear, hurricanes, tornadoes, and falling trees. Sleep easy at night knowing your flock is being fully protected when they’re secured in their Eglu Cube.
Omlet and chicken care
Omlet’s chicken-keeping experts have made tending to flocks easier than ever. Not only are our products safe and durable, but they’re easy to clean and a joy to use. Lighten your workload and treat your hens when you add an Eglu Cube, Autodoor, and PoleTree to your chickens’ setup.
This entry was posted in Chickens
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