Next time you’re about to throw away your empty eggshells, spare the compost bin and keep hold of them. Many people use crushed up egg shells in gardening to add calcium to the soil, however we have another great way you can use egg shells to add to your garden. Many propagators or seed starter tubs are made out of plastic, which isn’t great for the environment. Why not use your empty egg shells to start your next batch of seeds?! It’s so quick and easy to do!
1. Firstly rinse out the shells, and then let them dry.
2. Once dry, fill the egg shells halfway with compost and sit them in the egg carton.
3. Sprinkle a little water on the compost and then add your chosen seeds to the compost.
4. Spread a thin layer of compost on top and drizzle a little bit more water.
5. Then place in a sunny spot indoors – a window ledge is a great place to start seeds.
6. Keep watering your eggshell seeds each night, and after a few days you should start to see them sprout!
Once they’re too big for the shell then transfer to a bigger spot to continue growing indoors or outdoors depending on the chosen seeds (see packet for details).
This entry was posted in Chickens
Roosting high up in trees comes natural to chickens, as that is one of the safest places to rest if you’re a chicken in the wild. And doing so on gently moving, or even swinging, branches makes you an even more difficult target for predators. So instinctively your birds should be happy to jump straight up on their Chicken Swing!
With that being said, chickens are vulnerable and clever creatures, which means that they can be wary of new things. They don’t like being the first to try something, so if you’ve got your flock a new toy and are disappointed they don’t seem particularly interested in it, you might have to help them take the leap!
Setting Up The Chicken Swing
The Chicken Swing is cleverly designed to make it as easy as possible for chickens of all ages to use it. The base of the swing has a texture resembling a corncob, which makes it more grippable than a smooth plastic surface.
Make sure you place the swing free from any obstructions such as walls, mesh or other things on the run. Choose a sheltered spot under cover so the hens can do their swinging no matter the weather!
Eventually you ideally want the Chicken Swing to sit above the chickens’ heads, so that they will be able to swing without the risk of bumping into one of their friends. It’s no problem for a chicken to jump up a few feet, but to make it as easy as possible in the beginning, start with the swing close to the ground. The Chicken Swing is lightweight enough that if it were to hit one of your hens, it won’t hurt them.
You won’t need to train all your chickens to get on the swing. They are flock animals, so if you get one of them to show the others how it’s done, there’s a high chance the others will follow shortly!
Letting your chickens give it a try
So choose your most adventurous chicken and place her on the swing, which at this stage should be hanging very low to the ground. Give her something delicious straight away, so that she associates the swing with yummy treats. Do this a few times until you feel she’s comfortable perching on the swing. At this point, push the swing slightly to get it moving. Reward the chicken every time she swings towards you. Push a bit more every time you’re trying, and start lifting the Chicken Swing higher and higher above the ground.
If the chicken at any point seems stressed or anxious, stop the training, let her down and go back to basics. It’s important that she only has good feelings associated with the swing!
It’s not guaranteed that all chickens will warm to the swing, it’s just a fact you have to accept. Young chickens are in general more likely to take risks and learn new things, but personality plays a big part, so you’re not automatically going to succeed just because you’re introducing the swing to chicks. However most chicken will, after some persuasion, absolutely love swinging, and it’s worth a bit of work when you see your girls queueing up for their go!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Most chicken keepers limit their attentions to hens and eggs. Roosters – or cockerels, as they are sometimes called (and definitely not to be confused with roasters!) – are simply not on their tick list. After all, roosters are territorial, keen to defend their flock of hens, and famously noisy first thing in the morning.
But they are also beautiful birds, and if you intend hatching your own chicken eggs, your hens will certainly need the attentions of a rooster.
There are several cockadoodle-dos and Cock doodle-don’ts to consider if you are thinking of adding a rooster to your flock.
First, the good stuff
Cockerels look fantastic as they swagger across their territory. Their huge combs and wattles quiver like jelly, their pointy rear-end feathers and ‘mane’ of spiky neck feathers are wonderfully showy, and their posture suggests someone who has just strutted onto the dancefloor to show off some amazing moves.
But it’s not all about beauty. Roosters always have an eye out for danger and will fight off any intruder they think they can tackle. The bird is not silly enough to attack dogs or cats, but it will make it clear to them that they are not welcome, through body language and alarm calls. This gives the hens time to flee for shelter, and the rooster will beat the retreat too, if things start to look too dangerous.
A rooster will add harmony to a hen flock, making sure none of his birds are bullied, and keeping everything in order, a bit like a hands-off, benign sheepdog.
If you want to hatch chicks, hiring the services of a rooster is the only way forward. Fertilized eggs are still edible, as long as you collect the eggs on a daily basis. Any fertilized egg taken away from the warmth of a broody hen will not develop into a chick.
And the downsides?
If you live in a town or village, noise might be an issue with the neighbors. In many places in the USA, roosters are banned for this reason. However, if your bylaws don’t place an outright ban on male chickens, you’ll have the law on your side. But what about those irate neighbors?
The irony is that people who keep roosters – and many others besides – love the sound of early morning cock-crow. I raise my hand, as the author of this post, and admit to loving the sound of a rooster at daybreak – and I live in a village with half a dozen cockerels battling it out first thing in the morning. It’s a much better sound than car engines and slamming doors as people prepare for the working day. If people can live with the sound of road, rail and air traffic, surely they can get used to the wonderful sound of a full-throated rooster?
Sadly not, in many cases, and a crowing cockerel can be the subject of arguments and recriminations. So, so if you have nearby neighbors, it’s an issue you can’t ignore. Start off by speaking to everyone who live near enough that they will hear a cockerel crowing in the morning and see how they feel about the idea. You never know, they might be really excited about the prospect of a new alarm clock!
There are ways to keep roosters quiet before everyone has got out of bed. Some people swear by anti-crow collars, Velcro strips that restrict airflow to the rooster’s voice box. They don’t hurt the birds or affect their breathing, but they transform the noisy COCK-A-DOODLE-DO! into a much quieter clucking sound. If you have a large rooster you may also be helped by a coop with a low roof. Roosters must stretch their neck to crow, and if the coop roof is not high enough to allow him to stretch the neck fully, he will have to wait until you let him out.
With that being said though it’s worth noting that roosters naturally crow, and if you (or your neighbors) can’t stand being woken up at the crack of dawn, you might be better off sticking to hens.
The rooster is not just a chicken version of a sheepdog, he’s a guard dog too. At the sight of any intruder, he’ll let you know. This is just the kind of vigilance you’d expect from a bird once declared to be the messenger of the sun god. And that’s a lovely image – he’s not crowing to annoy anyone, he’s crowing to announce the arrival of the life-giving sun. Who could say no to that?
This entry was posted in Chickens
If you keep chickens, you already know what a happy, healthy hen looks like. If anything changes, it’s a sign that all is not well in the henhouse.
The commonest problems are not due to diseases or parasites, but stress. If the henhouse is overcrowded, dirty, or too hot, or if the birds are feeling harassed, they will become stressed. The symptoms include egg-eating, aggression to their neighbours, loose droppings, lethargy, and a sudden interruption to their egg-laying.
The cause should be obvious enough, once you stop to look. Too many birds in one house? No shelter from direct sunlight? No room to exercise? Nothing but wet mud? These things can be sorted out by rearranging the hens’ environment, extending the run, and getting a bigger hen coop. Check the hens’ diet, too – are you feeding them a good, fortified chicken feed, supplemented with some corn
? Poor nutrition is a gateway to other health issues, as it weakens the birds’ immune systems.
Infectious Bronchitis – The Commonest Chicken Disease
There are many diseases that can afflict chickens, but thankfully most of them are uncommon. Anecdotal evidence shows that Infectious Bronchitis is the one that small-scale backyard hen keepers are most likely to encounter.
Hens suffering from this ailment will have a quiet, rasping, wheezing cough, sneeze or snore. The first signs of the problem are usually a loss of interest in food. As the disease takes hold, the hen will develop a ‘runny nose’, with discharge from the nostrils and eyes.
The bronchitis is caused by an airborne virus, and the best remedy is vaccination of the flock. Any infected birds should be isolated and kept somewhere dry and warm, making sure they eat and drink well. Some will die, but most pull through.
Note: the symptoms described here are also associated with other diseases, including Infectious Sinusitis, Newcastle Disease, and the deadly Aspergillosis, Pullorum and Bird Flu. The Omlet Chicken Guide has more details.
Bumblefoot – The Commonest Chicken Injury
A leg or foot wound that becomes infected can result in Bumblefoot. The wound will not always be obvious, but the biggest clue is a limp, or the tendency to stand for a long time on one leg while the other hens are scratching and pecking for food.
After a few days, the limb will swell, at which point you need to act fast. Taking the bird to a vet is the best bet, as the wound will need thoroughly cleaning, and minor surgery may be involved if the problem is severe. Untreated hens can die.
Not all limps are the result of Bumblefoot, though. Hens sometimes land awkwardly after the chicken version of flying. Broken toes and legs are quite common too, and these will require a splint. But if there is no visible surface wound, Bumblefoot is unlikely to set in.
So, look out for the limp – that’s your first clue that all is not well.
Common Chicken Mites
Chicken parasites are common, but not usually life-threatening. The commonest ones are the mites, of which there are several species.
Red Mite, or Chicken Mite – These nasties hide away in the henhouse, in corners, under perches and elsewhere. Anti-mite powders and liquids can be applied to the coop and keeping things super-clean at all times will discourage the tiny red bloodsuckers.
Northern Fowl Mite – these are a bit bigger than red mites and live on the birds rather than just dropping in for a quick bite. Remedies are available and need to be applied to the bird itself.
Scaly Leg Mite – This variety causes a hen’s legs to become rough, sore and weepy. Antibacterial scaly-leg treatments are the only way to tackle the problem, although rubbing in a little Vaseline can ease the discomfort.
Depluming Mite – This variety burrows into the feather shafts, causing swelling and producing a discharge on which the mites feed. The hens will then begin plucking their own feathers to relieve the discomfort. The mites spread quickly, so the whole flock and henhouse will need treating.
Quick action is the best way of tackling these ailments. Each morning, carry out a quick visual health check. Any of the following should be taken as a warning sign:
- Dirty or messy feathers
- Hunched-up posture
- Lethargy
- Evidence of parasites
- Unhealthy-looking poo
- Sneezing, wheezing, coughing
- No appetite
- No eggs
If you have cause for concern, check out Omlet’s chicken health guide, and call the vet for advice.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Are you thinking you might want to keep chickens and rabbits together? These two outdoor-loving pets actually share several similarities, and can live in harmony as long as their individual needs are met. Chickens and rabbits have shared barnyards across the world for generations, so with a little preparation and planning, you’ll be able to keep both in your backyard. Discover how to keep these two species together, and what to expect along the way.
Chickens and rabbits together
Both chickens and rabbits are very social animals that enjoy spending time with others of their own kind, their owners, and even each other. Chickens and rabbits require about the same amount of space, and their ideal temperatures and the amount of care they require is similar. One large area with dedicated spaces for their own food and lodging is ideal for keeping fur and feathers together.
But there are a few things to think about if you’re considering keeping rabbits and chickens together – just putting them together in a chicken run or rabbit run without dedicated areas would be a mistake. We’ll share our top tips for how to help your flock and fluffle share a harmonious existence.
Introduce them early
You are more likely to succeed if you start introducing the animals to each other when they are young, so that they are raised together. But no matter which age they are, you’ll need to start by keeping them on different sides of a fence or a run so that they can get used to each other. Omlet’s partitions for the Outdoor Pet Run are perfect to create this separation. When they’re ready to spend time face-to-face, keep them in a very large enclosure, so that no one feels threatened by the other species. Make the enclosure gradually smaller, until they are all in the run where you are planning to keep them permanently.
Watch for signs of trouble
Your chickens might try to peck the rabbits while they are getting used to their fast movements. This doesn’t hurt a fully grown rabbit, and should pass after a few days. Never put a very young rabbit in with a flock of adult hens, as they are much more vulnerable. If your rabbit hasn’t been raised with the chickens from chicks, make sure your bunny is at least 4 or 5 months old before making introductions. If you notice tufts of fur being pulled out, or distress calls coming from your rabbit, remove them right away.
Different dwellings
Chickens and rabbits have very different sleeping habits. Chickens will roost overnight, while rabbits will seek shelter at ground level. Having their own sleeping quarters will also prevent chickens from depositing their droppings on unsuspecting rabbits during the night. Your chickens should have their own hen house, and bunnies should have a rabbit hutch to retire to at the end of the day, or when they’re overstimulated.
Dietary requirements
While chickens and rabbits can share fresh produce and certain treats, the bulk of their diet is very different. Chickens require layer feed, while rabbits need pellets that are lower in protein that are composed primarily of timothy hay. They’ll happily sample each other’s feed, but this can cause digestive upset. To prevent this, make sure your chicken feeders are out of reach of your rabbits, and that your rabbits are fed inside of their hutch, or in a separate area that they can access via Zippi Rabbit Tunnels, which are not accessible by most chickens.
Rabbits are tidy
Rabbits are well known for their cleanliness. They strive to eliminate in the same place each time, and they will meticulously clean themselves with their tongues and paws. Chickens on the other hand don’t maintain a reputation of tidiness. They’ll drop their eliminations wherever they are at the moment – which will not impress your rabbits. Thankfully, Omlet’s chicken coops, chicken runs, and rabbit hutches are all easy to clean, so you can keep their shared space tidy with minimal time and effort spent.
Make sure there’s room
Having two species in one place might be space efficient on the whole, but make sure the run is big enough and equipped with toys and hiding places to entertain and calm your pets. The Caddi Treat Holder is a perfect food toy for both rabbits and chickens to share fresh produce, and Zippi Play Tunnels are a perfect small den for a tired bunny.
Safety in numbers
Since chickens are flock animals, and rabbits live in groups, they need the company of the same species. Always keep at least two rabbits together – even if they’re with your chickens. Rabbits groom each other, sleep together, and speak the same language, so it’s important to have a pair of bunnies. Neutered males, spayed females, or one of each are usually the most successful pairings. Male rabbits kept together should always be neutered to avoid territorial displays, including those made toward your chickens. Similarly, roosters in a flock of chickens will defend the hens, which may mean displays of aggression toward rabbits. When keeping chickens and rabbits together, avoid having a rooster in the mix.
Omlet and your mixed flock
We’ve designed chicken coops and rabbit hutches to be not just practical and functional, but enjoyable. By combining your chickens and rabbits together in a shared space, you’ll be able to enjoy the company of each of them without sacrificing time with the other. In a large outdoor pet run, you can create the ultimate spot to spend time with your chickens and rabbits, and benefit from the interaction that different species have to offer each other – humans included.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Many of us know what it’s like. You start with a few chickens, thinking you’re just going to try it out, but once you realise what amazing pets they are and what delicious eggs they lay you will probably soon think it’s time to expand the flock and get some more hens for your garden.
But adding new chickens to an existing flock is easier said than done, and it’s important to know what you’re doing to avoid bickering and bullying, or even worse.
The key to introducing chickens is time. Be patient, it might take a while before your new individuals are living happily with your current flock, but it will be worth it in the end. Each breed of chicken is different, and all chickens have different personalities, so how well your attempts will go depends on many different factors. Here are some useful things to think about:
Make the right choices
Some people say sticking to the same breed is a good idea, but it’s definitely possible to have several different breeds living side by side. If possible, add chickens that are of similar age and size as your existing ones. Smaller, younger hens will easily become a target if added to a group of larger chickens, and new younger, fitter chickens might cause stress for the older members of your current flock. Never add chicks to a group until they are old and strong enough to fight back if someone decides to bully them.
Also never introduce a chicken on her own; she is bound to become bullied in an already established pecking order. The more chickens you add, the more the pecking order will have to change, and it will be easier for the group to decide who is actually the most dominant. If possible, adding more chickens than you already have will often minimise problems with bullying, but it’s a risky game if you plan on expanding your flock more than once!
Quarantine
The first step in the process is to quarantine the new chickens somewhere away from your flock to make sure they don’t carry any diseases or parasites. Do regular health checks on the new chickens while you’re keeping them separate and treat any illness you might come across. It might be worth doing a worming treatment and to dust them in Diatomaceous Earth a few times to be extra sure they are not bringing in any parasites into your coop.
Quarantine the new birds for at least a week, preferably longer, or until you’re certain they are happy and healthy.
Slow introductions
Unfortunately, you can’t just plonk the new chickens down with the old ones as soon as you’re sure they are healthy. Instead, you must allow them to get used to each other. Ideally this is done by placing the two groups close enough to each other that they can see and smell each other, but not close enough that they can touch. They will hopefully be curious of the other group, but not feel that their home is being invaded. The partitions for the Omlet Walk in run is perfect for this stage, as it means you can divide the run and slowly introduce the two groups.
Keep this setup for at least a week. It may seem like they have gotten used to each other after a few days, but for chickens there’s a big difference between seeing some hens over the fence and actually sharing a coop and run with them. Be patient, then you’re more likely to succeed.
The big meet
When you think it’s time for the two groups to meet for real, it is best done in a new, neutral area that no chicken has claimed as her own, even if it’s just a small fenced off area in the garden.
It’s always best to let the old flock come to the new, so put them down before you let your existing flock approach. This is especially important if you’re carrying out the introduction in the flock’s current run: don’t let them out of the coop until the new chickens are comfortable on the run.
Try putting up some entertaining distractions that might avert their attention somewhat. Fill a Peck Toy or a Caddi with your chickens’ favourite treat, and they will hopefully be more interested in that than the newcomers.
Another thing worth trying is introducing chickens in the night when they are quietly roosting in their coop. Open the door of the Eglu and put the new chickens in with your existing ones. This allows them to get used to the presence and the smell of the new chickens while they are sleepy and not likely to attack. This seems to work really well for some, whereas it leads to a few problems for others, so it’s up to you if you want to risk it. Make sure you are there in the morning when the chickens wake up to see how they are reacting to their new friends.
As we said, it might take a while before the flock goes back to its harmonious self. You must prepare yourself for some disagreement and a bit of bullying, this is part of establishing the pecking order. It should however have calmed down after a few days, maybe a week. If you notice that chickens are getting seriously hurt or are drawing blood it’s time to step in. Identify the main bully and isolate her somewhere else for a few days on her own. It might seem harsh, but it’s the best thing you can do for your flock. When you put her back with the group she will be too busy trying to figure out the new order that she won’t have time to bully.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Wondering how to find and buy chickens at the moment? In the past, finding chickens has been easier in the spring — but recent years have seen a shift in this trend. Find out where to find chickens right now, and what to expect when it comes time to bring them home.
Finding chickens online
A quick Google search can give you a list of chicken hatcheries either in your area or across the country. Chicken hatcheries specialize in chicks, but sometimes also sell older pullets or adult hens. If you’re looking for a specific breed, a chicken hatchery will likely be your best bet. And, most hatcheries will keep hatching and selling chicks all year long, so you won’t have to time your purchases with the seasons.
You can also find poultry farm pages and chicken breeder groups on Facebook. Or, if adopting hens in need is more in line with your chicken-keeping goals, then searching for a chicken rescue group online will help you locate an organization to work with.
Finding chickens in person
Your local farm supply or feed store will likely keep chicks in stock from March through September. This may vary depending on your climate — but as a general rule “chick season” is early spring through late fall. If you’re searching for adult hens, you have a couple of different options.
Individuals or chicken breeders are a good resource to find hens anytime during the year. You’ll probably need to seek them out online, but if you locate someone close to you, you’ll be able to go pick up your hens.
Breeders and expositioners are in full swing during the fall for local fairs or poultry club shows. Check with your local 4H club, high school FFA program, or your city or county exposition center for show dates. You can almost always find quality, purebred chickens for sale at these shows.
You can also check with your local animal shelter to see if they have any chickens available for adoption. Hens will periodically be surrendered or confiscated from previous owners, and are easily stressed in a shelter setting. Animal shelters will usually have low adoption fees for chickens in order to get them rehomed in a less stressful environment quickly.
Hatch eggs at home
You can incubate and hatch eggs any time of the year. Incubators are relatively inexpensive and easy to use, but we do suggest purchasing a trustworthy incubator with the following features:
- Automatic egg turner (otherwise you’ll need to rotate the eggs several times every day)
- Internal thermometer and hygrometer (to measure humidity levels)
- Hatching level plate (to give hatchlings enough room to stand after they hatch)
Fertile eggs are necessary for hatching. If your flock doesn’t have a rooster, hatching eggs can be found through hatcheries, breeders, or individuals.
If you don’t want to buy an incubator, you can wait for a hen to go broody — meaning they decide to sit and hatch a clutch of eggs. But, broody hens upset the natural laying schedule of the entire flock, as they will try to hoard all of the eggs under themselves in order to hatch them. It’s best not to encourage broodiness in hens unless you have a large laying flock, as well as a rooster to provide fertilized eggs. Otherwise, you will spend a lot of time “breaking” a broody hen.
Watching eggs hatch is a fun experience — especially for children. Chicken eggs hatch in 21 days under the right conditions, whether in a brooder or under a hen. Once hatched, your chicks will need to spend 12 weeks in a brooder pen.
Bringing your chickens home
Bringing home new chickens is exciting, and you’ll want to make sure you have the right setup to welcome them home. When you choose flock and keeper-friendly products from the start, caring for your chickens won’t feel like a chore — just an enjoyable experience.
Omlet’s Eglu Cube chicken coop is the perfect size for growing flocks. It can comfortably house up to 10 small breed hens, and the attached run can be extended for extra pecking space. And, when combined with our Walk In Chicken Run, your new additions will have plenty of room to forage, play, perch, and enjoy your company.
Whether you choose to let your chickens free range, or keep them in the run — adding an automatic chicken coop door gives your flock an extra layer of security between them and the things that go bump in the night. Install the Autodoor on the wire of our Walk In Run to make sure everyone is secure for the night, or on the Eglu Cube to tuck your hens in overnight. Or, place an Autodoor on both the Walk In Run and the Eglu Cube for a truly formidable flock fortress.
Omlet and your chickens
We’ve designed everything you need to keep a flock — no matter what stage of the journey you’re in. From young pullets to adult hens, your flock will be protected and comfortable in their Eglu Cube, Walk In Chicken Run, and Autodoor from the time they take their first flaps in their forever home.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Omlet chicken fencing can be used to contain your chickens within an area, giving them more space to roam in your backyard.
Our chickens provide us with entertainment, company and fresh eggs – and lots and lots of poo! While cleaning out the Eglu might not be the most fun part of chicken keeping, those droppings can be turned into what gardeners sometimes refer to as “black gold”, one of the most desired fertilizers out there – and you can get it for free!
There are however a few things to think about when it comes to getting chicken manure right. Keep reading to find out more!
It can all be used
Unlike some other types of manure, chicken manure is too strong to use straight on your flower beds or vegetable patches. It will burn the roots or other parts of your flowers and crops and can also contain harmful bacteria that can cause illness if ingested. This is why it needs to be composted!
While you can put the chicken droppings straight on a bed in autumn and cover it with dry leaves that will molt through the winter, your best shot is probably to be patient and let it mature in a separate place.
Whether you do a weekly clean or pick up droppings in your Eglu every day, everything in the coop can be put straight onto your compost, including the bedding. Adding the bedding helps create the correct ratio or carbon (bedding) and nitrogen (droppings) needed to break down plant matter and waste. As chicken droppings are extremely high in nitrogen, you will probably want to add a larger ratio of other plant matter than you would in a normal compost. Dried leaves from the garden will make a great addition.
We recommend having a sealed container for your compost rather than a heap in a corner, as the latter can attract rodents and pets that should not be ingesting chicken poo.
Composting chicken droppings
Apart from carbon and nitrogen, your compost will need air, moisture and heat. This is easily done; all you need to do is to water your mixture thoroughly and turn the heap every few weeks to get air flowing through. This will automatically heat the compost, breaking down the plant matter and burning off unwanted bacteria.
If you want to speed up the process and become a composting champion, you can purchase a compost thermometer at a local garden center and keep an eye on the temperature in the middle of the heap. The ideal temperature is 130-150 degrees Fahrenheit, and this should be maintained for about 3 days, after which you will need to turn the matter completely and start over.
This is however not necessary, you can just leave the compost to do its magic, just turning it regularly. How long it will take depends on the conditions, but to be sure everything is properly composted you should leave it for 9 months to a year.
Adding black gold to your garden
Once composted, chicken manure adds organic matter to your soil and increases the soil’s capacity to hold water, as well as returning nutrients to the soil. It’s also an amazing fertilizer that provides your plants with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in much higher levels than other types of manure. Chicken manure can be spread on top of your vegetable patch or flower bed or worked into existing soil. You can also put a handful of manure in a watering can and let it mix for a while before giving your flowers a very nutritious shower.
If you have composted the manure properly all the harmful bacteria will have been burned, and there is very little risk of you getting ill. However, if you’re on the worried side of things, make sure you clean your produce properly before eating them, or use the chicken manure on crops that are not touching the ground, like sweetcorn, peas or tomatoes.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Eggs are truly amazing things, and sometimes we might take them for granted. For something that only takes the hen about 24 hours to make, they are eggstremely well engineered and cleverly constructed, as well as really delicious! Here are some cracking egg blogs that will hopefully make you appreciate the humble egg a bit more!
Why are chicken eggs different colours?
The ancestor of all chickens is the Red Junglefowl, Gallus gallus, a native of South-east Asia. All Junglefowl eggs have shells of a creamy white colour. And yet, as any chicken keeper knows, the eggs of domestic… Read more
How do Chicken Actually Lay Eggs?
The process of egg laying starts in the chicken’s eye. Sunlight enters the eye and activates a photosensitive gland, the pineal gland, located… Read more
Step by Step Guide to Hatching Chicks
As long as your chickens are laying and there’s a cockerel in your flock, you can hatch and incubate chicks all year round. However, traditionally the most popular time to breed your own chickens is in the spring. Hatching and rearing your own chicks from eggs… Read more
Why chickens hide their eggs and how to stop them doing it?
If you’re keeping chickens in your garden, you’ve probably become accustomed to your morning routine: wake up, drink a cup of tea or coffee and collect fresh eggs from your flock. Of course it’s an unpleasant… Read more
Not done with eggs? Download this printable colouring page and share with the family – fun for all ages!
This entry was posted in Chickens
April Fools!
While an Eggscalator for lazy hens is not available (yet,) you can still bring your chicken coop into the 21st century with the amazing Automatic Chicken Coop Door from Omlet.
Here’s 7 reasons why the Autodoor is the best of its kind…
- The Autodoor can be installed on all wooden chicken coops, the MK1 and MK2 Eglu Cube, plus all Eglu runs and chicken wires.
- You can set your Autodoor to open and close at a specific time or light percentage to suit your chickens’ routine. No need to get up at the crack of dawn in summer to let your chickens out – the Autodoor will do it for you!
- Don’t worry about keeping your chicken coop close to a power source, the Autodoor is battery-powered by 4 AA batteries which can last up to 6 months.
- Reliable in all weather conditions, this is a gadget that will take you from winter to summer, and back again with no problem.
- The Autodoor’s built in safety sensors ensure no chicken is harmed or trapped in the door when investigating their new gadget.
- Improved coop security! The horizontal Autodoor is far safer than it’s vertical, guillotine style competitors, which can be easily lifted by predators.
- Low maintenance and easy to install, the Autoodor includes everything you need to get started in one box!
- You can now connect a coop light to your Autodoor to encourage your chickens to return in the evening. It also makes checking on your pets in the evening much easier!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Do you like travelling and seeing new places?
A: “Home is where the heart is”, as I always say. That’s where I feel the happiest.
B: I love exploring new places, and I’m always looking for a new place to visit.
C: I like the occasional holiday as a treat, but I prefer going places where I’ve already been.
D: I love going somewhere warm, but while there I mainly spend time by the pool.
How do you feel about children?
A: I LOVE children, they are so CUTE. And they say the funniest things!
B: Kids are like small adults really: I like some and find others quite annoying.
C: I don’t love babies, but once you can talk to them they are quite fun to be around.
D: Honesty, I don’t think they are worth the effort.
What’s your role in a group?
A: I normally stay in the background and let other people decide – it’s easier that way.
B: I tend to bond with the people who I have the most in common with and stick to them. I’m not really a people pleaser.
C: I often get the leader role without actually asking for it. Maybe I give off assertiveness? I don’t mind though, I quite enjoy it.
D: I’m normally the loud one who tries to make sure everyone is happy and that there is no awkwardness.
Would you say you’re friendly?
A: I get on with most people, and it’s important to me to be liked.
B: Yeah I suppose so. I’m extremely generous to people I like, but I don’t spend time and energy on being nice to people who I don’t like.
C: Yes, definitely. I’m curious, so I like meeting new people.
D: I can be a bit suspicious in the beginning, so maybe I don’t always come across as the friendliest of people.
How clean and tidy are you?
A: I really don’t like being dirty, and I keep my home spotless.
B: I’d say the perfect amount, but I think others would probably say I’m on the slightly messy side.
C: Can I say medium? Medium.
D: I’m not super fussed, mainly because there is always something more fun to do than to clean.
What would you say is your greatest quality?
A: I’m very easygoing.
B: I stand up for what I believe in.
C: I’m very friendly.
D: I’m ambitious and proactive.
How would you describe your sense of style?
A: I’m quite interested in fashion, especially shoes. You could say shoes are a bit of an obsession of mine.
B: The most important thing for me is that the things I wear are comfortable.
C: Elegant and classic.
D: I like big bold patterns, but my wardrobe is mainly black and white with a few colourful additions.
Mostly A: You’re a Cochin
Just like the fluffy Cochin, you are humble and appreciate the simple things in life. Because of your friendly demeanour you tend to get on well with most people and pets, but just like the Cochin sometimes becomes the submissive breed in a mixed flock you need to work on standing up for yourself to make sure no one takes advantage of you. You’re not particularly adventurous, but prefer to spend time at home with family and friends over crazy nights out, just like the Cochin. These rather lazy chickens stay close to the ground and prefer not to get their feathered feet dirty. They also have a strong maternal instinct and run the risk of regularly going broody.
Mostly B: You’re an Old English Game
These beautiful small chickens are one of the oldest breeds around. Just like you they are active and confident, always on the lookout for new things to explore. You are family orientated and very generous to those close to you. This can however mean that you find it hard to forgive people who have hurt you or the people you love, and you are quite happy to fight someone who you don’t agree with. Old English Game are hardy and quite noisy, and don’t do well with confinement. They are small and very friendly to humans, but especially roosters have an aggressive side to them, probably due to the fact that they descend from cockfighting birds.
Mostly C: You’re a Leghorn
You are an ambitious and hardworking person, and you tend to be the center of attention in any situation. Just like the Leghorn you’re not fussy and can handle most things life throws at you, but don’t like losing control. Due to their independent nature, Leghorns are difficult to tame, and if given the opportunity they will roost in trees. They are not natural sitters, but will care for their own children. They produce plenty of eggs and will be assertive but friendly towards humans.
Mostly D: You’re an Ancona
Just like these beautifully spotty birds you are independent and assertive, and will always be busy with something. You are open and friendly and take the role of the joker in a group, but it can take a while to get close to you as you only open up to those who you really trust. Anconas are happiest if they get to free range and forage for food during the day, but then return to the safety of a comfy coop. They produce a good amount of eggs, but are notoriously famous for their inability to sit on the eggs – just like you they don’t find babies that interesting.
This entry was posted in Chickens
…make it the Peck Toy!
Here’s why the Peck Toy is the perfect choice for your chickens…
- The Peck Toy ensures a slow rate of feed release which is perfect for use with treats to prevent your chickens having too much at once, while keeping them satisfied throughout the day.
- The Peck Toy is also a great way of keeping your chickens entertained throughout the day, especially ideal for wet or windy days when they would prefer not to leave the protection of their run, or if you are unable to let them out to free range. The Peck Toy offers an interesting, reward-based game for them to play with all day long.
- Available in 2 designs to suit your coop requirements and chickens, the Peck Toy can either be hanging from your run so it swings as your chickens peck at it for treats, or free standing, placed in the ground in their run or anywhere in your garden.
- Use for any of your chickens’ three nutritional needs – treats, feed or grit. The number of Peck Toys you need will vary depending on the use, for example 1 peck toy is suitable as a treat dispenser for 4 medium sized chickens, or as a feed dispenser for 2 medium sized chickens. 1 peck toy is also enough for 6 chickens if used as a grit dispenser.
- Placing treats or feed in a dispenser also helps to improve run hygiene as it prevents the ground being covered in more treats and feed than your chickens need or want. This is most beneficial for preventing rodents becoming interested in your coop and run.
- You can save 50% on the Peck Toy this weekend only when you sign up to the Omlet newsletter. This is an eggcellent opportunity to snap up a great deal and treat your chickens to a new toy for the spring. Get your unique discount code on the Peck Toy page here.
Now available from $10.99, or $5.50 when you sign up to the Omlet newsletter.
Terms and conditions
This promotion is only valid from 03/05/20 – midnight on 03/09/20. Once you have entered your email address on the website you will receive a unique discount code that can be used at checkout. By entering your email you agree to receive the Omlet Newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any point. This offer is available on single Poppy and Pendant Chicken Peck Toys only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs or Twin Pack with Caddi Treat Holder. Offer is limited to 2 Peck Toys per household. Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Chickens have a well-defined hierarchy. Every hen knows who’s boss. This, indeed, is where the phrase ‘pecking order’ comes from.
In everyday chicken life, the occasional peck and minor tussle is perfectly normal. But when the pecking gets out of hand, you will soon have semi-plucked chickens looking thoroughly miserable on their perches.
Bullying will always break out when new birds are introduced to a flock. This is all part of sorting out the new pecking order, everything will be calm and back to normal in a few days, usually.
Hens may peck themselves, too, with the same result – feather loss. However, you’ll be pleased to hear that in both cases – self-plucking and plucking others – the problem can be addressed and solved quite easily.
Overcrowding in the Chicken Shed
Whenever there is insufficient space, hens will begin pecking each other. The only time they’re content with cramped conditions is when they’re settling down side by side for a cosy night’s sleep. Overcrowding causes stress, and stress leads to violence. It begins with the pecking and general bullying of any chicken that sits lower down in the henhouse pecking order.
Providing more space is always the answer here. The minimum space required per chicken depends on the size of the breed; but it is always best to give the birds as much room as possible. As a general rule of thumb, you will need 2 to 3 square feet (0.18 to 0.28 square metres) per chicken in the coop, and 8 to 10 square feet (0.74 to 0.93 square metres) per chicken in a run. This is the bare minimum, though. If you own an Eglu Go that accommodates up to four hens, six is clearly too many. Two, however, is absolutely fine.
An overheated chicken shed may also cause pecking and plucking, as the high temperatures make the birds’ skin itchy and uncomfortable. Too much light has the same effect; although this is a problem that only really afflicts birds kept in artificial light to boost egg production.
When Chickens See Red
A hen may become the victim of pecking if she is unwell. Sometimes the other chickens will turn on an ailing companion. She will usually find a quiet spot to hide, and you will be able to intervene before things get out of hand.
If a wound is involved, however, the other hens will literally see red. Blood acts as a magnet for the birds, and they will pursue and peck at the wound, plucking surrounding feathers and making the injury worse, with obvious dire consequences. Deaths are not uncommon in these circumstances, and if the wound is combined with overcrowded conditions, cannibalism can occur.
The injured chicken must be isolated from the rest of flock until her wound is healed and she’s in top shape again. If you have a Walk in run for your chickens, partitions is a great solution that will prevent the other chickens from bullying the injured hen.
You can assist the healing process by applying anti-peck and healing lotions and creams.
The Chicken and the Vampires
In 99% of cases, a hen who pecks and plucks herself has parasites. The culprits are usually mites, tiny vampires who leave the chicken’s skin scabby and itchy. Lice and fleas have the same effect. An infested hen will not only look untidy and threadbare, she will also have a drooping comb and will be listless.
One type of parasite, the depluming mite, eats away at the roots of the feathers, causing them to fall out without any intervention from the hen. All these chicken-nibbling nasties can be deterred using spray-on or rub-on medicines.
If your chickens’ diet is low in protein (which will never be the case if their food revolves around good chicken feed pellets), they will look for it elsewhere. Insects and other invertebrates are good sources of protein; but so, too, are feathers. If feather pecking afflicts your flock, diet is another thing to add to the checklist when getting to the bottom of the problem.
When Pluck Runs Out
If your hens lay brown eggs, evidence suggests that you may have more problems with pecking and plucking than someone whose birds lay white eggs. This sounds bizarre, and the science is not conclusive, but observational studies have come to this conclusion. It is, however, largely a problem among chickens kept in large numbers for commercial purposes, and not a consideration the average backyard hen owner should worry about it. It’s certainly intriguing, though…
In most cases of pecking and plucking, you will be able to solve the problem by simple intervention. Give the hens enough space, and keep the chicken-sucking creepy crawlies at bay, and in most cases the problem is solved.
This entry was posted in Chickens
The ancestor of all chickens is the Red Junglefowl, Gallus gallus, a native of South-east Asia. All Junglefowl eggs have shells of a creamy white color. And yet, as any chicken keeper knows, the eggs of domestic hens can vary widely.
Many years ago British chicken egg producers realised that shoppers favoured brown eggs, and turned their noses up at white ones. It was even said that brown eggs were more nutritious (which is not the case – all chicken eggs have the same nutritional value).
This tyranny of supermarket brown eggs continued until about 20 years ago, when a niche market was created for eggs from specific breeds. Chocolate browns, blues, and even the much-maligned whites, all began to appear on the shelves.
But for anyone familiar with backyard chickens, this was nothing new. Pearly whites from the Sussex and Leghorn, lovely blues from the Ameraucana and Cream Legbar, red-brown beauties from the Barnevelder and Welsummer and the dreamy greeny-blue of the Araucana and Favaucana are all in a day’s egg-collecting.
But why, given the fact that those ancestral chickens all laid creamy white eggs, do these different colors exist?
Egg Painting – the Natural Way
An egg takes around 26 hours to fully form inside a hen. Twenty of those hours are dedicated to toughening and coloring the egg shell. Layers of calcium carbonate provide the toughening – which is why hens need plenty of calcium in their diets – and the coloring is down to pigments. Calcium carbonate is naturally white, so any other color has to be ‘painted on’, from the inside.
Breeders have created hundreds of chicken varieties over the centuries, and each of these has distinctive plumage and coloring. The pigments that give feathers color sometimes go hand in hand with specific pigments for coloring egg shells too.
For example, the Ameraucana carries the blue pigment biliverdin, and this is painted onto the shell in the later stages of the egg’s development in the oviduct. Both the outside and inside of the shell have the same blue color.
This is not the case with a standard brown egg. Crack one open and you’ll notice it’s white on the inside. The pigment responsible for brown coloring is protoporphyrin. This is present to a greater or lesser degree on the majority of chickens. Even eggs of a creamy color have a hint of protoporphyrin in their shells. Hens carrying an excess of the pigment – such as the Delaware and Marans – produce fabulous chocolate brown eggs.
Many hens lay brown eggs dappled with darker brown spots and streaks. The Neera and Welsummer are good examples of this. The effect is causes by the egg turning as it makes its way through the oviduct, and it is a common feature in the eggs of many wild bird species. It is details like this that enable owners to recognise eggs from their individual birds (in a small flock, that is!)
When the two types of pigment – the blue and the brown – are mixed together, the result is a greenish blue or olive color. If the brown pigment is light, as in the Favaucana and Araucana, the eggs are a soft greeny blue. With a darker brown in the mix, the olive color is increased, as in the aptly named Olive Egger.
What Color Are Your Chickens’ Earlobes?
It can come as a shock to learn that chickens have earlobes. Even more surprising to hear that these lobes give a clue to the color of egg shells.
The earlobes are obvious, once they’ve been pointed out. Chickens have three types of ‘wattle’ – the red crest, the wobbly ones on the throat, and the ones on the side of the head, towards the back – the earlobes.
White earlobes are found on hens with white or otherwise pale plumage. These birds have relatively small amounts of pigment, hence the light feathers. The same rule applies to the eggs – no pigment, and hence white eggs. Meanwhile, hens with brown or reddish earlobes lay brown eggs, and ones with a creamy, pearly, shiny white earlobes lay blue eggs.
These days, ironically, it is the non-standard-brown eggs that command the higher prices in the shops. And yet once you get a clutch of golden-yoked, grass-fed, free range chicken eggs cooking side by side in a pan, you can’t tell which shell produced which egg. When it comes to chicken eggs, beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder – and the earlobe of the chicken!
This entry was posted in Chickens
Watching chickens scratch at the frozen ground or strut through the snow, you might wonder how they manage to keep their feet and legs warm. After all, this is one part of their body with no feathers to keep it cozy (unless you happen to have a feathery-legged breed such as the Cochin, Brahma or Silkie).
Surprisingly, the simple answer to ‘How do they keep their leg warm?’ is ‘They don’t!’ Those skinny, bare legs have scales, which retain heat to a certain extent, but they will still get very cold if the bird stands still for too long.
And that’s the important detail. A chicken keeps its legs warm by moving, and by not keeping all its toes on the ground for too long. These parts of their body lose heat rapidly; but the solution is quite simple.
Perching is the most effective way of retaining heat. A hen hunkers down when roosting, and her legs are tucked into her warm body. If space allows, install a flat perch too. A piece of wood with a 10 cm width will enable the hens to roost without having to grip the perch, which in really cold weather will prevent their toes freezing. (The lucky ones will simply snuggle down in a nesting box, which is the chicken equivalent of a thick quilt!)
But of course, a hungry hen doesn’t want to waste the whole day perching, so even in the coldest spells she will make a lot of contact with the ground.
One-Legged Hens
Like many other birds, chickens often adopt the ‘one leg’ look, tucking one of their limbs up into the warmth of their bellies. This reduces overall heat loss and stops feet and toes from freezing on the icy ground.
An upturned pot, a log, pallet or other slightly elevated space – cleared of snow or ice – will help the hens get the circulation going again, without having to catch their breath on the frozen ground. Like all birds, chickens are warm-blooded, just like us, and their own body heat soon works its magic. Indeed, with an average body temperature of around 41°C, chickens can remain active in the coldest weather.
The leg-warming process is helped by other tricks, too. Fluffing up the feathers retains body heat, by trapping small pockets of air which are then heated up by the bird’s warm body.
Some owners give their hens a supper of corn and grains, which take longer to digest than a standard pellet or other chicken food. Part of the digestion process involves producing heat – a kind of internal hot water bottle!
In general, hens will eat more food in the cold months, as more of their energy is spent keeping warm. Some owners like to supplement the birds’ diets with extra protein or a little suet, to increase their fat levels for the winter. Fat retains heat, and the whole bird benefits – not just the legs (which will remain as thin as ever!)
Help With the Heating
You can help your hens keep their toes cosy by making sure the coop is clean and dry. Clear out any snow dragged in on the birds’ feet and keep an insulating layer of straw on the floor. You can give the birds extra protection by insulating the coop – although there should still be some ventilation, to allow the gases released from the birds’ droppings to escape.
You can install an automatic door to help keep the living quarters snug. Heaters are also available – but never use anything other than a heater designed specifically for hen houses. It’s also best to use these only if the temperature gets below 40°F, otherwise hens may get used to being cosy all the time, and that could be disastrous if the heater fails, and the birds are suddenly exposed. Heat-pampered poultry can die of cold shock.
A chicken coop should be draft-free, but not completely sealed, as ventilation is important for healthy hens. During the day, a sheltered spot in the run or garden will help them take a breather and warm those long-suffering legs.
Chickens are amazingly hardy, and although not exactly warm, their legs will be able to cope with anything the average winter throws at them. As long as they can toast their toes on a nice perch every now and then…
This entry was posted in Chickens
Are your chickens happy in their wooden coop? Is your chickens’ coop strong enough to make it through another winter? Is it time you upgraded your wooden coop? These are all questions many chicken keepers ask themselves when facing the reality that their wooden coop may not do its job, especially for another cold season. Take this short quiz to see whether your wooden coop is ready for this round of wintery weather.
Wood absorbs water – does your coop seem heavier?
A = Yes – either I’m getting weaker, or my coop has gotten heavier.
B = Yes, but I solved it by getting someone else to move the coop for me.
C = I’ve given up trying to move it.
D = Nope, I spent the summer sanding and sealing my chicken coop with a varnish, so now it’s more water-resistant.
Have you had to pour boiling water onto locks to get them to open?
A = Yes, I have to keep a coop de-icing kit.
B = Boiling water sounds easier than smashing the bolt with a rock or brick to get the coop unlatched during a freeze.
C = I religiously grease all hinges and bolts every few weeks to keep things moving.
D = I have very carefully aligned my coop to the morning sun so that the bolts and hinges have defrosted by the time I get out. On cloudy days I resort to hot water.
Has your wooden coop shifted or expanded since last winter?
A = Yes – the doors all seem too big for the frames, and nothing opens or shuts properly anymore.
B = Yes – the panels have swollen, and now I’m concerned for when they shrink again because I added extra chickens to fill the void.
C = For the most part it appears fine, but some sections don’t align the way they used to.
D = No – the staining and sealing seems to be keeping the coop intact.
Is the roof leaking?
A = Yes – I’ve already fixed the roof a few times this year, and now it’s already leaking again.
B = Yes, but this is the first time and I’m confident that I can fix it myself.
C = No – there aren’t any obvious leaks.
D = My wooden coop is brand new, so I don’t expect to have any problems this winter.
Is it cold and damp inside?
A = Yes – it feels cold inside, and the bedding gets damp quickly.
B = It’s a little chilly, but my hens huddle together to keep warm.
C = I haven’t noticed any dampness, and my hens act alright.
D = The coop keeps warm overnight once I have shut the door, and my chickens are outside during the day.
Did you have difficulties with red mites in summer?
A = Yes – I’ve had to prevent and treat red mites in my coop and chickens regularly, and I’m already dreading the next resurgence.
B = No more than usual – it’s just part of chicken keeping, and I’m used to dealing with them.
C = I had mild issues with red mites, but they weren’t out of control.
D = The red mites didn’t cause a problem in my coop this year.
How long does it take to clean your coop?
A = It’s an all-day task that I dread, so it doesn’t get cleaned regularly in winter.
B = It takes a while, especially in the winter, but I know my hens appreciate it.
C = It takes a few hours, but the whole family helps.
D = It doesn’t take me long at all – I have a good system in place.
The results…
Mostly As = If you experience repeated and frequent issues with your wooden chicken coop like red mites, a leaking roof, or poor ventilation, it’s definitely time to upgrade to a plastic chicken coop. Keeping chickens in the winter doesn’t have to be a dreaded or labor-intensive experience. Plastic chicken coops keep your chickens comfortable, dry, and mite-free all year round.
Mostly Bs = You’ve valiantly kept your wooden chicken coop going this long, and are determined to keep persevering through wooden chicken coop repairs. But the question remains: are your chickens happy in their wooden coop? Keep a watchful eye out for dampness and drafts inside of the coop, as these are extremely dangerous for hens – especially the older members of your flock.
Mostly Cs = You’re no stranger to wooden chicken coops and the potential problems and maintenance they present. But, there are plenty of reasons to avoid wooden chicken coops and to make the switch from wooden to plastic hen houses. Cleaning, comfort, and your overall workload will decrease substantially when you update your coop to plastic.
Mostly Ds = Your wooden chicken coop is in its early days, or you’ve spent countless hours preparing and preserving its integrity. Keep in mind however that all wooden chicken coops rot eventually, and all preservation methods are just that – a temporary improvement until the elements leave their mark on your wooden coop once more. If you’ve just invested in a wooden chicken coop and aren’t ready to make the switch to plastic, consider making some weather-resistant upgrades like an Automatic Chicken Coop Door to keep your hens more comfortable in the cold.
Upgrade with Omlet
Don’t just survive the winter weather – thrive in the cold. With our line of plastic chicken coops, your hens will be warm, dry, and comfortable whatever the weather. The Eglu Cube Chicken Coop is designed for larger flocks to find shelter in the bitter cold. And, with accessories like the Autodoor, you can schedule your flock’s outings to take place during the warmest part of the day, while keeping them tucked in a well-ventilated, draft-free coop at night. See how keeping chickens in the winter doesn’t have to be a chore, just another season to love your flock.
This entry was posted in Chickens
While most people check the weather forecast to help them plan their week activities or outfits, chicken keepers can also be using it to predict what accessories their coop needs to ensure their girls are as comfortable as possible.
From sun to snow, wind to wet, the breakfast time weather reports and the handy app on your phone are all giving you helpful hints that you might be ignoring.
? TEMPERATURE ?
Firstly, the most obvious indicator: the predicted temperature for the coming 10 days. Depending on what time of year we are in, this can be super helpful or utterly confusing if it is varying drastically. But let’s think about what we can act upon.
In winter, if the predicted temperature is at below 32 degrees Fahrenheit for more than 5 days in a row or the temperature is near freezing and you have very few chickens in your coop, you may want to consider attaching the Extreme Temperature Blanket to your Eglu to give your chickens some extra help with keeping warm, without limiting the coop ventilation.
During hot summer months, when temperatures can be above and beyond 85 degrees Fahrenheit daily in some countries, it is wise to move your chicken coop into an area that is in the shade for as much of the day as possible. For your chickens, daily health checks are essential to ensure they are not suffering with the high temperatures. If your coop is attached to or inside a secure run, you can leave your coop door open to increase airflow at nighttime without your girls being exposed to predators.
☀️ SUN ☀️
When the sun is shining, it is tempting to cover your chickens’ run with shades so that it is completely protected from the sun inside. However, this can have the opposite effect on what you intended. Instead of shading and cooling the area, lots of shades create a tunnel which traps the heat, like a greenhouse.
It is best to keep them in a shaded area, and protect one side of the run from the sun. If your chickens are out free ranging most of the day, make sure that they have access to shady patches in the garden, and that their food and water is also in shade.
❄️ SNOW ❄️
Exciting for some, but for others a weather warning for snow can be very disappointing. You may want to consider sheltering your coop’s run with clear covers to prevent as much snow getting on the ground inside the run as possible. If snow is predicted for the foreseeable future, you may want to prepare for long term icy conditions and bring your coop closer to the house so it is easier to check on your chickens, and they can benefit from some of the shelter your house might provide. During the snow, be sure to dry off damp feathers and remove any chunks of ice from claws. Increase the amount of bedding and food you are giving your chickens too as this will help them stay warm.
If you have time, it might be wise to consider how effective your chicken coop will be against the bitter cold. If you have a wooden coop, check if it is water-tight and well insulated. If you are not confident in your wooden coop, consider upgrading to a sturdy plastic alternative, like the Eglu Cube. It’s twin-wall insulation works in the same way as double glazing to keep the cold out of the coop, and the heat in during winter. The plastic material is waterproof and super easy to clean out quickly (especially important on chilly winter days).
☁️ CLOUD ☁️
The most boring of all weather forecasts, but often a rest bite from other more extreme conditions. During winter, a few cloudy days should raise the temperature slightly and give you a good opportunity to clean out your coop and thoroughly check on your chickens and make any changes needed for whatever the forecast predicts for the coming days.
? RAIN ?
Some weather reports are more helpful than others when it comes to the exact timing and chance of there being rain. But if you’re looking at days of 90% chance of heavy showers, it would be wise to act fast and get some protective clear covers over the run. If the ground under your chickens’ coop and run is already extremely muddy and wet, you might want to consider moving them to a new patch of grass, and maybe even laying down a base material, like wood shavings, to prevent it developing into a swamp!
? WIND ?
How you react to a windy forecast completely depends on the wind speeds predicted. Light winds, less than 25 mph, shouldn’t cause much of a problem. You might want to add some windbreaks around the base of your Eglu and a large clear cover down the most exposed side. However, in extreme high winds, the worst thing you can do is completely conceal your run, particularly a larger Walk in Run, with covers from top to bottom. In a large run, the mesh holes allow the wind to flow through without causing any issues to the structure, and a clear cover round one bottom corner of the run will provide chickens enough shelter. If you cover the run completely, the wind will be hammering against it and is more likely to cause the structure to lift or move.
If your chickens are in a smaller run attached to their coop, we recommend moving it to a position where it will be most protected from the wind and any falling debris, for example, against a sturdy building wall. The Eglu’s wheels allow you to easily move the coops around your garden to suit the conditions. If you are keeping your chickens in their Eglu coop and run, and not free ranging during dangerous weather conditions, consider adding some entertaining toys and treat dispenser for them to prevent boredom, such as the Peck Toy or Perch.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Backyard hens spend their entire lives outdoors. This means they have to cope with everything the year throws at them — from blazing summers and sub-zero winters, to year-round downpours. Being hardy birds, they take much of this in stride, but they benefit from a helping hand from their humans. Here are ways to help your flock and prepare for the chicken-keeping challenges in the year ahead.
Winter
Depending on your location, winter can be one of the most challenging seasons for all outdoor animals. While it varies from year to year, the 10 US states that typically receive the most amount of snowfall are:
- Vermont
- Maine
- New Hampshire
- Colorado
- Alaska
- Michigan
- New York
- Massachusetts
- Wyoming
- Wisconsin
No matter where you live, there’s a lot working against both humans and chickens when cold weather sets in – but thankfully chickens are naturally equipped to endure lower temperatures. Because of this, chicken-keeping in the winter isn’t much different from the rest of the year, but a few preparations can go a long way in helping your hens thrive in the cold.
Cold-weather chicken considerations
- Although chickens cope well with the cold, they’ll need some help when it’s both cold and wet. Keeping hens in an insulated Eglu Chicken Coop is a good place to start, with the option to add extra chicken coop weather protection to both the run and the coop. This is especially helpful if you live in an area that receives heavy snowfall.
- Perches in the run enable chickens to cuddle up when it’s cold – which is essential in the winter months. The Omlet Chicken Perch, being composed of eucalyptus, a strong, untreated wood, prevents chickens’ feet from becoming too cold. Offering perches above the frozen ground of the run gives your hens’ toes a break from the chill.
- In sustained sub-zero temperatures, rubbing Vaseline on your hens’ combs and wattles will help prevent them from becoming frostbitten.
- Keep your hens’ feet dry in wet weather by lining the run with wood chippings, straw, or hay.
Winter daylight hours
- Chickens usually return to the coop to roost at dusk. But in the winter, you may find your birds trying to get more time outside on the short days. If your hens are prone to wandering around in the dark, a high visibility hen coat will help you locate them – and also ensure they’re visible to anyone else, should they stray from your yard.
- Installing an automatic chicken coop door with a coop light will help your hens adhere to bedtime. The door can open and close automatically based on the amount of daylight, a specified time, or manually. The coop light will help beckon wandering birds to bed when darkness falls, as chickens will naturally gravitate toward a light source.
Your chickens’ health during colder months
Keep an eye out for coughing, sneezing, lethargy, or other signs of chicken illness. Older or weaker chickens can become more vulnerable to illness when the cold weather sets in.
- Egg production will decrease – but this doesn’t mean no eggs for breakfast. While your hens may not lay as frequently, and some may stop altogether throughout the colder months, a flock of 4 or more chickens should still provide an adequate supply of eggs for your family during the winter.
- Make sure your hens’ diet consists of high-quality feed and scratch, and consider adding some extra chicken vitamins and minerals to boost their immune systems. Offer hay or greens in a chicken treat holder to provide a nutritional activity on cold days.
- Their water will freeze, so be prepared to break the ice, and have some spare water dispensers ready in case the waterers freeze solid. Pour hot water over any icy water sources throughout the day to help keep things thawed. Consider placing submersible bird bath heaters in your chickens’ waterers to keep them thawed.
- On the upside, winter might kill off any lingering flies, mites, and other pests your chickens encounter during the warmer months.
Spring
As the days lengthen, your hens will start laying more eggs. Vegetation comes back to life, and chickens find insects, plants, and other findings worth scratching around for. Your chickens will likely be wanting to spend more time outside in the warmer temperatures and longer days, but predators also spend more waking hours roaming in the spring.
Protect your chickens from awakening predators
Chicken predators will be on the move when the days warm up and lengthen. In the northern states, large animals such as bears awaken from winter hibernation with a voracious appetite. Other predatory animals such as foxes, wolves, and badgers will also be on the prowl after a lean winter. Central and southern states will see an increase in activity from coyotes, bobcats, racoons, and snakes as the weather warms up.
Keeping your chickens in a secure, covered run is vitally important during early spring when nature’s predators are also taking advantage of the changing seasons. Automatic chicken coop doors will ensure the hens are in and out at the right times, and will prevent predators from gaining access after-hours. The door will also let your chickens out in the morning, so that you can enjoy weekend mornings in bed as the days get longer.
Prepare your chickens for extreme weather events
For southern states, spring can bring extreme weather changes and events such as tornadoes and severe thunderstorms. Housing your hens in a strong chicken coop and heavy-duty, covered run will ensure they stay safe during wild weather. An Eglu Cube chicken coop with added handles and wheels makes it simple to relocate your chickens and their entire home to shelter during severe weather. The Eglu Cube can also be tethered to the ground in preparation for high winds. But just how strong is the Eglu Cube? Some wild-weather events that the Eglu Cube has prevailed against include hurricanes, tornadoes, falling trees from high winds, and more.
Cover walk in chicken runs to protect against hail and heavy rainfall. While tarps will help keep heavy rainfall out of the run, high winds can blow rain in from the sides — and sustained heavy rainfall can create a muddy environment. Add straw to muddy areas of your chickens’ run to help prevent infections such as bumblefoot when the ground is saturated. A chicken tractor is another great option during soggy seasons, as your chickens’ area can be changed daily.
Take proactive steps to reduce chicken coop pests
It’s also important to note that mites and parasites make their debut in the spring, so if you don’t have an easy-to-clean plastic chicken coop, be sure to treat your coops and runs to get ahead of the pests. Mites thrive in wooden surfaces, so housing your hens in a plastic coop is a first line in defense to eliminate pests. Change bedding daily, and clean the interior of your coop frequently to keep your chickens healthy and happy when mites threaten to emerge.
Summer
It’s amazing to see the transformation in your chickens as the seasons change. Gone are the downy, fluffy winter and early spring jackets your hens sported mere months ago. Instead, you may now notice your hens’ feathers slowly becoming more dull, and they are spending more and more time under shaded areas.
For many flock-raisers, summer poses the largest threat to chickens. The main risks that flocks face in the summer months are excessive heat and too much sunlight. Be sure to have plenty of shaded areas where your chickens frequent, and keep fresh, cool water available at all times. A chicken coop that provides shade itself, like the space under the Eglu Cube or the Eglu Go Up, is ideal for the summer months.
On average, these 10 US states experience the hottest summer temperatures:
- Florida
- Hawaii
- Louisiana
- Texas
- Georgia
- Mississippi
- Alabama
- South Carolina
- Arkansas
- Arizona
In these states, special considerations should be made when caring for chickens. Evaporative cooling may help keep flocks cool in drier climates such as Arizona, but chickens living in states that experience heat and humidity have a distinct disadvantage when it comes to options to keep cool.
The Eglu Cube chicken coop is designed to reduce moisture and increase airflow through its ingenious ventilation design. Twin-wall insulation and vents along the back allow for cool air to circulate, while keeping the warm air out. Plastic doesn’t hold onto moisture the way that wood does, so your chickens can find relief from the damp, humid air. The Eglu Cube also offers a shaded area beneath the coop, with the option to add heavy-duty run covers to the sides and top of the run for additional protection from the sun. And, with added handles and wheels, the Eglu Cube can be moved to shadier, cooler spots as summer progresses.
Here are some other methods to alleviate heat-related stress in your flock during the summer months:
- Keep the water supply full, as hens drink more in warm weather. Add ice cubes to waterers if possible throughout the day to keep the water temperature at a refreshing level.
- Provide a dust bath – either a dry area of ground in the yard, or in a container in the chicken run. Cat litter trays, kiddie pools, and even old tires with the rims removed make great basins for dust baths.
- Offer treats like frozen corn or other chicken-safe veggies in a chicken treat dispenser or chicken peck toy.
- Look for any signs of heat stress in your hens. Open-mouth breathing (panting), lethargy, agitation, increased saliva production, or any other concerning symptoms should be reported to your veterinarian. Bring any chicken exhibiting heat stress into an air-conditioned space, but refrain from employing any other cooling measures until hearing from your veterinarian. It can be dangerous for an overheated chicken to have their body temperature brought down too quickly.
Fortunately, the “dog days of summer” usually yield to lower temperatures at night. You may want to offer more space outside of the coop for your chickens to roost overnight in the warmer months, as they will need extra space away from each other’s body heat during this season. A Freestanding Chicken Perch or PoleTree will give your hens aerial space to roost if they need to spread out at night. Just be sure that all of their enclosures are predator-resistant and have a top to prevent aerial attacks. Attaching a tarp to the walk-in run will keep UV rays down, offer protection from summer storms, and also thwart predator attempts from above.
Fall
Fall is a favorite season for both flocks and their keepers. Bugs are still abundant, the temperatures are comfortable, and gardens offer hen-friendly snacking opportunities when gardeners rotate crops.
Hens will often molt this time of year in preparation for colder temperatures, so they need a good diet to help them stay healthy and grow new feathers. Extra vitamins and minerals will boost feather growth, and a little apple cider vinegar in their water will help them grow healthy and glossy plumage. Egg production will cease or drastically reduce while hens are molting, but once they’ve completed their transformation, your hens will resume their laying schedule. The shorter days will prompt chickens to lay less frequently, but good layers will continue to produce eggs during the fall and winter.
It’s important to remember that states along the eastern coast experience the peak of hurricane season during the fall. Be sure to have an evacuation plan that includes your chickens, and prepare for extreme weather. Ensure any chicken enclosures are safe in windy conditions, and cover your chickens’ run to protect against heavy rains.
Year-round chicken care with Omlet
At Omlet, we’re here to support chicken keepers all year round. By keeping your hens in an Eglu Chicken Coop and Walk In Chicken Run that are both easy to maintain and clean, you’ll create an environment that is enjoyable for both you and your flock no matter the season. These, along with Walk In Run Covers, make seasonal preparation quick and easy so that the changes in weather, amount of daylight, and looming predators don’t detract from the wondrous connection you’ve created with your chickens. So here’s to another year of chicken-keeping, the Omlet way.
This entry was posted in Chickens
During the winter, one of the biggest concerns among chicken keepers that have purchased, or are considering, an Eglu is how well it can keep their flock warm. In this blog, we will dive into the science behind the Eglu’s thoughtful design, with particular emphasis on how these features will help your chickens stay warm during the colder months.
Insulation
Insulation prevents energy from passing through it, and air is an excellent insulator! Think of your chickens in the cold – they fluff up their feathers in order to trap more air between their layers of feathers. Pretty amazing, right? By doing this, they create their very own insulation. Air is such a great insulator because it has very little conductivity, which is the ability to transfer heat. Air molecules are spread out, so even though warm, fast moving molecules are bouncing around within the air, they only lose heat when they come into contact with slower moving molecules to pass warmth off to – which in turns causes the temperature to cool. In short: air doesn’t have as many molecules for heat to pass its warmth off to, thereby keeping an area warmer for longer. Air is used to insulate many commonly encountered objects and structures – from your favorite puffer coat, to your thermos and even the walls of your home.
Just like the walls of your home, the Eglu’s unique twin-wall design captures air in between the layers, creating a “pocket” of insulation to surround the coop. Not only does this method prevent cool air from moving in, but it also keeps the body heat your chickens generate inside. On the flip side, the same method helps to keep heat out of the coop during warm weather.
Ventilation
Ventilation is any coop’s best friend – but it’s a delicate balance between how much airflow is needed. Too much airflow creates chilly drafts, and too little airflow causes moisture to build up inside the coop which can lead to multiple health issues for your hens.
Eglu coops are designed to allow air to flow through the coop through well positioned vents. This draft-free system ensures that clean air is able to circulate through the coop while still keeping your chickens warm. The moisture created by your chickens will be circulated out through the same process, preventing moisture buildup.
How chickens keep themselves warm
As mentioned, chickens have a built-in mechanism for creating their own insulated barrier from the cold. You’ll notice your chickens “molt” (shed their feathers) in preparation for the winter. While it may look alarming, your half-naked chickens will regrow thicker, more dense feathers for the winter. These dense feathers are used in their “puffing up” technique to help hold the longer feathers on top away from their skin. The thickness of their downy feathers underneath traps the air that their visible plumage is allowing in. The result is a fluffed up, warm (and adorable!) hen.
Chickens will also ramp-up their already fast metabolisms in the winter to help generate heat. Be sure to offer them extra feed during this time to support this metabolic shift! Feeding extra scratch grains or alfalfa hay in the evenings will help keep their body heat up on chilly winter nights.
As a cold-defense mechanism, blood flow will be redirected from your chickens’ legs and to their bodies in an effort to keep them warm. Their feather-less legs have scale-like coverings that trap some heat in, but often you’ll see your chickens warming up their chilly legs. Some hens will alternate standing on one leg in a flamingo pose to warm one leg up against their body. The hen will switch legs to repeat the process on the other side once one leg has been sufficiently warmed. You’ll also notice that chickens will drape their feathery skirts over their toes when they roost to warm them up! By giving them chicken perches or chicken trees in their run, they’ll have multiple opportunities to warm their toes after walking on the frozen ground.
The Eglu isn’t made of ice, but it can withstand it
Our Eglu coops might not be made of ice, but they’ve been created to withstand the elements! For particularly cold areas, extreme temperature jackets can be added for extra-insulation. And since you’re now a pro at understanding how air is a great insulator, you can see why adding another layer to trap even more air around your chicken coop will help keep more heat in and more cold out!
Inventing and engineering minds are always hard at work at Omlet, and the Eglu chicken coop is just one of many pet products designed with practical science to benefit both the animals and the people that love them! You can rest easy this winter knowing that your chickens will be nice and warm all season long in their Eglu coop.
This entry was posted in Chickens
…make it this one.
From the latest smartphone to super clever hairdryers, we often hear and read about the top new gadgets that we need in our lives, and more recently we are beginning to see amazing tech products for our pets! But what about chickens? Yep, even our feathered friends are getting a look into the future, and this is not something to be missed.
If you buy one thing for yourself or your chickens this week, make it this.
The Autodoor.
This one simple addition to your chickens’ coop, can make a hugely significant difference to your life as a chicken keeper, and many users swear by it.
Secure the Autodoor to your chickens’ enclosure; this can be the Eglu Cube house, Eglu run, any wooden chicken coop or chicken wire, and use the control panel to set when the door opens and closes, based on a specific time or a percentage of light.
In the morning, the Autodoor will open with no fuss, allowing your chickens out of their coop or run to explore, graze and stretch their wings, especially useful in summer, when your chickens are wanting to get going far earlier than you. There’s no need to get up at 5am when you have an Autodoor.
In the evening, as the sun sets, the Autodoor can be programmed to close at a time when you know all your chickens will have gone into their coop to roost, so they can be secured and safe from predators. In winter, when it can be dark before you get home, you won’t have to worry about having to hurry back in time to shut them in. The Autodoor can do it for you.
Here’s 5 other reasons, you need the Autodoor…
- Battery-powered. No need to keep your coop close to a power source.
- Reliable in all weather conditions. This is a gadget that will take you from winter to summer, and back again.
- Built in safety sensors ensure no chicken is harmed when investigating their new gadget.
- Improves coop security and insulation. The horizontal door is far safer than it’s vertical, guillotine style competitors which can be easily lifted by predators.
- …and finally, the Autodoor is now 25% OFF when you sign up to the Omlet newsletter here. That’s a huge saving of $47.25! Find out more and get your unique discount code here.
This entry was posted in Chickens
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