Some animals, such as rabbits and guinea pigs, are herbivores. Others, like hamsters, are omnivorous. Finally, there are also carnivores like cats that cannot survive without meat.
All animals need to have their nutritional needs satisfied. However, this does not mean you can’t have a vegan dog. Vegan cats, though, are a lot trickier.
Can my dog have a vegan diet?
If you were to meet a species of animal for the first time and had to make an accurate guess about its diet, you would get lots of clues by looking at its teeth. The teeth of a dog, like the teeth of a bear, proclaim loud and clear that this animal is an omnivore – that is, one that eats both meat and vegetables. If you think of your dog as a domesticated wolf, you get a good idea of its natural diet.
However, as the panda proves, a supposed meat-eater can sometimes get by perfectly well on a vegan diet. A panda’s teeth are similar to any other bear’s – long canines for meat-eating and molars for grinding vegetation. And yet pandas don’t eat anything other than bamboo. So, if a bear can be vegan, does that mean you can have a vegan dog?
The answer is yes – but it’s a yes with lots of small print! A dog requires a diet that contains the fats and proteins it would get from meat. It is dangerous to ignore this basic need and simply feed your pet with whatever you please. Some dogs have delicate stomachs. Also, a low-fat/high-fibre diet can cause potentially life-threatening problems. A diet that excludes meat should never be fed to a dog without the advice of a professional pet dietician.
The collagen, elastin and keratin found in meat diets are not easily replaced by veggie equivalents. Your dog will also need the ‘long chain’ omega-3 fats found in animal products such as egg, fish and some meats. Vegan omega-3 fats are not the same as animal-derived ones.
All of which presents a headache for the vegan dog owner. There are, however, products available that claim to let your dog live a healthy, meat-free life. Before you take the plunge, it is essential to seek professional, scientific advice and guidance. Compromise is usually the best choice here – a vegan diet supplemented by some of the animal-derived essentials. Crickets, for example, can provide lots of the amino acids and keratin a vegan diet lacks, and they’re 65% protein.
Can my cat have a vegan diet?
The compromise approach is even more important for cats. These are amongst the planet’s true carnivores, obtaining all their dietary requirements from other animals.
The main challenge with minimizing the meat in a cat’s diet is that, unlike many mammals (including dogs), cats cannot produce certain proteins. They have to absorb these from the meat and fish in their diet. Amino acids are another issue – cats deficient in the animal-derived amino acid taurine, for example, usually succumb to a specific type of heart problem.
Even a fortified vegan cat food cannot be confidently recommended. Turn the situation on its head, and try to imagine weaning a rabbit onto a meat-only diet, and you will get some idea of the challenge – and the ethics – involved.
There are some lab-grown ‘meat’ products in development, with vegan and vegetarian cat owners in mind. However, whether these will arrive – and remain – on the market any time soon is hard to guess.
For many vegan pet owners, there is a huge ethical issue involved in feeding the animals they share a space with. Ethics, however, include the animal’s needs too, and it’s an almost impossible issue to resolve when it comes to cats. If you are able to reduce but not eliminate the meat in your cat’s diet, that’s the safer option.
Top 10 pets for vegan households
There are, of course, plenty of other pets that don’t eat meat, or that eat some meat but can still thrive on a meat-free diet. Here are our ten favorites.
1. Rabbits. No problems here – rabbits are happy vegans, with diets based on hay and vegetables. You could argue that the soft pellets they eject and then eat are animal products of a sort, but they are simply semi-digested vegetation.
2. Guinea pigs. Like rabbits, these wonderful little characters thrive on a 100% vegan diet.
3. Hamsters. Most hamster owners give them store food, you don’t always know what’s in it. However, hamsters, like rats and mice, can do without meat.
4. Gerbils. Like hamsters, gerbils are omnivorous. They have sensitive stomachs and need a quality pellet mixture. Too much fresh produce can harm their digestive system.
5. Mice. Although they will eat pretty much anything in the wild, mice can thrive on vegan diets; but it is still best to use a food mix prepared specifically for them. This ensures that they will not be deficient in any of the vitamins and minerals they need.
6. Rats. These are the most omnivorous of rodents, but as long as you feed them a vegan mix that has been fortified with all the nutrients they need, they will thrive. Be careful, rats who eat too much animal fat tend to become fat and die prematurely.
7. Chickens. If you watch a free-range hen, it soon becomes clear that she will eat anything – grass, beetles, worms, and everything in your vegetable patch if you’re not careful! Most chicken feed emulates this mix of plant and animal products. However, it is possible to buy vegan chicken feed, and circumstantial evidence suggests that hens can thrive on it. However, they are likely to produce fewer eggs, and you will not be able to stop them scratching for worms and bugs, no matter how vegan the layers pellets are!
8. Parakeets and parrots. Vegans will have no obstacles to face with budgies and parrots, unless the birds are being bred. Egg-brooding female birds need a protein boost, normally delivered via an egg-based food or cooked meat. Vegan alternatives are available, though.
9. Finches. Many finch species enjoy bugs and mealworms as treats, but these are not an essential part of an adult finch’s diet. These birds thrive on a mixture of seeds and fresh vegetables.
10. One for reptile fans. When you think of pet snakes and lizards, you probably have an image of dead mice or doomed crickets. However, there are a few commonly kept pet reptiles that eat a 100% vegan diet, the most popular being the Green iguana. Getting the balance of vegetables just right is very important for the animal’s health, but meat is certainly something you won’t have to worry about.
There is no shortage of choice when it comes to vegan pets. Keeping a vegan cat or dog is a much trickier proposition, though. And with all these animals, a balanced diet that matches the pet’s nutritional requirements should be your primary goal.
This entry was posted in Birds
Welcome to guinea pig parenthood! Whilst your new furr baby will be relatively low-maintenance, as with any type of pet ownership, it’s your responsibility to keep your cavy safe and to ensure they live a happy and fulfilled life. But what exactly do you need to do to make sure that your guinea pig is a grinny pig, and is there anything you definitely should not do?
Guinea pigs bedding dos and don’ts
Do use a guinea pig bedding with good absorbency. This will reduce odors, and create a more hygienic and comfortable environment for your guinea pigs.
Don’t use dusty or sandy bedding. As guinea pigs have delicate lungs, breathing in wood or sand dust can be harmful. In their natural habitat, guinea pigs create their homes from larger pieces of wood and debris. Your pets will enjoy constructing complicated nests using larger bedding materials.
Do choose kiln-dried wood shavings – the drying process removes any toxins and oils from the wood.
Don’t choose color over comfort! If you want to use a multi-colored paper-based bedding, consider mixing it in with a more natural tone that replicates the wood-and-grass colors of the guinea pig’s natural habitat.
Do use an aubiose-based bedding if possible, as this is naturally less dusty, more absorbent and made from a natural, sustainable material.
Guinea pigs food dos and don’ts
Do give your guinea pigs natural treats such as spinach or broccoli, as this is an essential source of vitamin C in their diets! If your cavies refuse to eat leafy greens, it may be necessary to purchase a vitamin C solution that can be added to your pet’s water.
Don’t overfeed your guinea pigs. If they are leaving bits of food in their bowl each day, feed them a little less.
Do regularly clean out your guinea pigs’ food bowl, as their bedding, fur and general mess will quickly soil the bowl. It’s a good idea to clean your pets’ bowls after each feeding with a wipe or spray.
Don’t give your guinea pig any type of meat or fish. This could lead to illness, and if your guinea pig has accidentally eaten meat, take them to the vet immediately.
Do change your guinea pigs’ water every few days, not only once the bowl is empty. This ensures a clean water supply.
Don’t give your guinea pigs too many treats when attempting to train them. The treats will go further in training if your pet sees them as something really special!
Guinea pig toys dos and don’ts
Do regularly change the toys in your guinea pigs’ run. Your guinea pig’s play will remain stimulating if you often swap the toys around. Your guinea pig may let you know if it’s bored of a toy by chewing or even eating it!
Don’t give your guinea pigs your leftover loo roll cards as a treat, as the chemicals used to treat them could be bad for your pets’ health. Instead, invest in a small tunnel system such as Zippi tunnels, which not only last longer but are safer too.
Do provide plenty of chew toys for your guinea pigs. Your pets will naturally nibble and bite any objects in their cage to maintain the length of their teeth. This can be dangerous if all they have to bite on is the metal cage, so having plenty of different things to chew on is essential.
Don’t put your guinea pig into a wheel or ball toy. Although these are great for our smaller furry friends, the guinea pig’s body is not designed to fit into such a small space. Your guinea pigs will be much happier getting their exercise in a large guinea pig run or enclosure.
Do change the layout of any tunnels or playground you have for your guinea pigs. Many of the play sets available are modular and can be changed to keep the experience fresh for your pets.
Guinea pig cohabitation dos and don’ts
Do make sure that your guinea pigs have plenty of space in their enclosure. If you are keeping a small family of guinea pigs, then it’s important that they have enough room to play and establish their own space within the cage or hutch.
Don’t punish your guinea pigs by putting them into isolation. Separating them from the others will only create further problems and is widely thought to be unhealthy and distressing for them.
Do keep your guinea pigs in pairs of sisters or neutered brothers. This will reduce aggression between the animals, as it lessens their mating urges. It is also possible to keep a neutered male with females, but you will need to wait six weeks after the neutering before introducing them, as males can still successfully mate in those early weeks.
Don’t keep just one guinea pig. Your guinea pig will get lonely when left alone for long periods, and such loneliness can actually shorten their lifespan. Your guinea pig will live a longer and happier life with a friend, so it’s a great idea to get a pair if you are considering becoming a guinea pig owner. Did you know that it’s actually illegal to own just one guinea pig in Switzerland?
Following these tips will make keeping guinea pigs simple and incredibly rewarding. By providing them with a stimulating environment and healthy diet and observing these few dos and don’ts, your pets will have long and happy lives.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are highly social animals that thrive on companionship and stimulation. And since a happy guinea pig is a healthy guinea pig, they need plenty of mental and physical enrichment. Toys, treats, and a playmate are just some of the key elements to enriching piggy-play.
Playtime is best spent with pals! If possible, consider adopting guinea pigs in same-sex pairs or trios. Guinea pigs thrive on social interaction, and do best when they have friends that speak their own language! If more than one guinea pig is not an option for you, be sure to engage yourself in piggy-playtime every day. Take note of what your guinea pig likes to do – are they curious and outgoing, or laid-back and shy? Do rolling balls catch their attention? Or do they prefer to chew rather than chase their toys? Knowing each guinea pig’s personality will help create the most enriching environment possible.
Serve food interestingly
Were you ever told not to play with your food? Well, the same rule does not apply to cavies! Mealtimes are a great opportunity to sneak in play and bonding time. Our Caddi Treat Holder is a fun and unique way of serving up your guinea pig’s meals and treats. Making food challenging to reach means more mental and physical reps before reward, and has the added bonus of keeping treats up off the floor. You can also hide food to encourage natural scavenging behaviors in your guinea pig. Place treats in paper tubes, or a hay rack for rummaging fun! Be sure to surround treats with nutritious hay to ensure meals are eaten before dessert!
Guinea pigs can also be fed by hand, but be sure to only offer treats long enough to keep your fingers out of accidental-biting range! Hold treats loosely between your fingertips and release as soon as your piggy has a hold of it.
Another interesting and engaging way to serve food to your cavies is by threading fruits, veggies, or herbs on a rope or skewer stick fastened with knots or clothespins. Be sure that the twine or rope is thick enough to avoid getting knotted around your piggy, and not so long that they can get themselves entangled. A blunt, metal grilling skewer secured to the side of your guinea pig’s enclosure is both chew and tangle-proof.
Guinea pigs are very food motivated, which makes exercising much easier! To give your piggy some extra steps for the day, tie some of their favorite food or toys to the end of a string and drag it along the floor for them to chase! Keep it just out of reach to encourage them to keep after it. Just be sure to let them catch their prize within a reasonable timeframe!
Changing up the menu from time to time helps alleviate boredom while enhancing your guinea pig’s health. Choose seasonal, piggy-friendly fruits and veggies such as melons, apples (without seeds!), or summer squash to add variety to their diets. Guinea pigs are also excellent lawnmowers, and would love time outside to help with the grass! Place them in a secure guinea pig run to move around each day and you’ll be amazed at how much less you’ll need to mow!
Obstacles, tunnels and tubes
Did you know that wild guinea pigs utilize the burrows and tunnels of other animals? They aren’t known for digging themselves, but they love to spend time in the safety of pre-dug tunnels! As prey animals, they have excellent eyesight – especially toward the sky, scanning for owls and hawks. Guinea pigs thrive in areas with lots of cover supplied by tubes and hideouts. Our Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System and Zippi Guinea Pig Play Tunnels allow for hours of play for your piggy and viewing enjoyment for you! Watch your piggy zoom through tunnels (or maybe even take a nap!) and weave their way through a course of your own design. Change the configuration routinely to further challenge your guinea pig. Bonus tip: hide some treats along the way, and you’ll have one happy cavy!
Make use of those shipping boxes! Guinea pigs love a good challenge, so create an obstacle course using a combination of tunnels, tubes, and cardboard boxes. Just be sure to discourage the nibbling of the cardboard obstacles!
Vantage points
While they feel most comfortable in the safety of tubes and tunnels, guinea pigs enjoy a good climb! They’ll routinely scout their surroundings looking for dangers, so giving them an elevated space will help them feel more comfortable. This is another place to get creative! Build platforms from cardboard tubes, boxes, or add our Zippi Guinea Pig Run Platforms to your piggy’s space to add levels of fun.
Toys
Some guinea pigs enjoy carrying or pushing small toys around. Guinea pig toy ideas include: small plastic balls, untreated willow or dried grass weaved-orbs, and small stuffed toys. Specially made guinea pig toys can be found at most pet stores, or choose small balls and stuffed toys from a selection of cat toys. Ensure that any small, glued-on accents are removed to prevent your guinea pig from ingesting something they’re not supposed to! And make sure each piggy has their own toy- they may be sociable, but not every piggy wants to share their favorite toy!
You can also leave toys in their cage for them to entertain themselves while you’re away. Bird toys, or toys made for rabbits and guinea pigs can be hung from the top or sides of your piggy’s cage to provide hours of fun! Be sure to remove any bells from bird toys that are small enough to swallow. Chewing sticks made from applewood are another must-have for cage enrichment. Guinea pigs have teeth that continuously grow, and need to gnaw on wood to keep them trimmed to an appropriate length. Applewood sticks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, most of which are perfect for your cavy to carry around and gnaw on at their leisure!
Shapeable log bridges are another great cage improvement for your guinea pigs. They can be formed into hides to run under, walkways to run across, ramps, dividers…your imagination is the limit! Untreated garden edging works too – just be sure to purchase a material that won’t harm your piggy should they taste it.
Toilet paper or paper towel rolls are great for creating treat-stuffing toys, or cut them down to create pillars for homemade platforms. Wrapping paper tubes are extra-sturdy for cavy construction projects! If your guinea pig is young or on the small side, be sure they can’t get their heads stuck inside any tubes they have access to.
Moving furniture
Guinea pigs need to be kept on their toes for optimal health. Another simple way to create a new and exciting environment for them is to rearrange their furnishings every time you clean their cage or enclosure. Move around their guinea pig shelters, playgrounds and guinea pig viewing platforms, and they’ll set off re-exploring their territory with gusto!
After all of this exhausting play, your guinea pig will probably want to take a well-earned nap. Popular snooze-space options among guinea pigs are fleece hammocks or blankets. These cozy bed options will be a fast favorite with your cavy! Make sure to wash your piggy’s bed of choice in the washing machine or by hand to keep it fresh!
Accessories to avoid
Toys: Watch out for toys with sharp edges, small attached accessories that could pose a choking hazard, or harmful materials such as treated wood. Also be wary of materials such as soft rubber or plastic that pieces can be bitten off of and swallowed.
Exercise balls and wheels: While guinea pigs may look like large hamsters, their anatomy is quite different. Guinea pigs are not comfortable in an exercise ball or wheel, and can seriously injure their backs or feet if placed in one. Ventilation is also important for guinea pigs, and exercise balls in particular do not allow for enough airflow to keep your piggy cool.
Bridges: Guinea pigs are adorable, but not graceful! Make sure all provided bridges either have rails to prevent accidental falls, or are low enough to the ground or level below them to provide a safe place to land.
Leash/harness: A walk may sound nice, but even the most friendly and trusting guinea pigs can panic on the end of a leash. Cavies are “flight” animals by nature, and will harm themselves struggling against a harness or leash if pulled on. A better option would be playing the string-drag game mentioned earlier, or a snuggle session on the couch with their favorite human-friend!
Creating fun games and environments for your guinea pig is rewarding for both of you! Playing with your piggy builds trust, and there’s no faster way to their hearts than through food! By treating them often, playing even more often, and giving them ways to entertain themselves while alone, you’ll ensure they’re living their best life!
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
You can keep chickens with other pets when the proper preparations and precautions are in place. Some pets like cats and dogs may have an innate prey drive that chickens can trigger, so it’s important to take introductions slowly to ensure success. With these tips, you’ll be able to confidently introduce your current pets to your chickens, or introduce new pets to your existing flock with confidence.
Keeping chickens with dogs
Dogs are the most common pets in the world, with millions kept as pets across the country. So, if you’re among the many dog owners, adding chickens to your family is possible once you consider your dog’s temperament and trainability.
Assessing your dog
If you’re a dog owner, the first thing to consider is their temperament. Different dog breeds may also react differently to birds as part of their nature. For example, breeds like Labrador Retrievers or German Shorthair Pointers may become easily excited around birds due to their natural hunting and retrieving drives. Other breeds that may have increased prey drives include:
Regardless of their breed, if your dog becomes excited or overly curious around small animals, their behavior will likely carry over to chickens. If your dog loses their mind over the birds at your backyard feeder, or drags you to investigate the park ducks on your evening walks, they’ll likely stress out your flock – and themselves.
Dogs without a prey drive or with little interest in birds will likely not pose a problem to your chickens, but all dogs react differently when new pets enter their territory. Usually, most dogs will adjust to the new backyard occupants just fine after an acclimation period. You will likely see your dog expressing interest in your chickens at first – hanging around and sniffing the coop. They may even express a desire to interact with your chickens through playful postures and behaviors. Understanding your dog’s body language around your chickens will help you determine what their relationship will be like.
Chickens are prey animals, and can be hurt easily. Dogs cannot play with chickens as they would with other dogs or even other pets. It’s important to teach your pup that chickens are fragile friends – not toys or something to hunt.
Teaching dogs to get along with chickens
Unless leashed walks make your dog overly excited, their first encounter with your chickens should be done with a dog collar and lead. Make sure their collar is tight enough that they don’t slip out, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable. Walk your dog up to your chickens’ enclosure and let them sniff. Maintain a tight leash until you see your dog’s reaction, and allow the lead more slack slowly to reinforce good behavior.
Let your dog watch you spend time with your chickens. This should be done with your chickens in the safety of a strong walk in chicken run. If your dog does more than sniff or hang around the run, take a step back and approach their interaction from a different angle.
It could take several weeks for your dog to fully accept your chickens. Some other ways to help your dogs adjust to your chickens include:
- Setting up chicken fencing around the outside of your flock’s run for your dog to observe them at a distance.
- If your dog has a run or playpen, place it next to your chickens’ run and slowly decrease the distance over several days until they are side-by-side.
- Reward your dog with their favorite treats each time they are calm around your chickens.
Make sure to never leave your dog unattended with your chickens – especially in the beginning. Even if they can’t get into the run with them, an excited dog’s barking can easily stress your flock out.
Keeping chickens with cats
Cats are more difficult to train than their canine counterparts, and are decidedly less predictable in their behavior. But the good news is that most cats don’t see a large hen as potential prey the same way a dog might. Most cat owners will agree that their cats show little to no interest in their chickens. In fact, cats and chickens have a somewhat symbiotic relationship.
Birds and their feed attract rodents, which a cat would much prefer over your hens. So, when your cat is able to patrol your chickens’ surroundings, chances are good that any potential rodent problem will be nipped in the bud.
Some cats may show increased interest in your hens. This largely depends on your cat’s breed and temperament. Cats will pose a greater threat to chicks rather than grown hens, but by keeping your flock in a strong chicken coop and run, you’ll ensure they stay safe from your cat.
Keeping chickens with guinea pigs
It may be tempting to keep some cute cavies in with your chickens, but in reality it’s not wise. Chickens will likely pick on them, and with their short legs, guinea pigs can’t get away from them quickly. Their dietary requirements are also very different, and your chickens may eat your guinea pigs’ food in favor of their own, which means neither animal will be getting the nutrients they need. If you have cavies and want to house them near your chickens, it’s best for them to have their own guinea pig hutch and run.
Keeping chickens with rabbits
Rabbits on the other hand are fast enough to fend for themselves against chickens, and if raised together from a young age, can do well around chickens. Still, they require their own dietary needs and clean sleeping quarters. They don’t roost like chickens, so they’ll need their own burrowing space in the run or under the coop.
The easiest way to achieve this is by adding walk in chicken run partitions. This will allow you to create “rooms” for each species to ensure they all get what they need. You can open the partition doors to allow everyone to be together whenever you’d like, or create a third space as a common area.
Remember to try to give each species as much space as possible in their respective areas to make them feel safe and comfortable.
Chickens and other pets
Chickens can also mix happily with goats, and with female ducks (males will tends to bully them). Ironically, they do not mix with birds in an aviary. They will eat anything that falls to the aviary floor, but they will also happily peck the other birds whenever they can and may attract rats and mice, which will cause problems for the smaller birds.
If you live in a rural setting, you can keep chickens with other barnyard animals. Chickens mix happily with:
- Goats
- Sheep
- Cows
- Alpacas or llamas
- Pigs
- Female ducks, guinea fowl, peacocks, geese, or pheasants
Any other avian species kept with chickens should be docile and preferably female, as males can bully hens. Smaller birds like quail or pigeons will likely get pecked at by chickens, so it’s best to stick with larger birds as run-mates. Small pets like hamsters, gerbils, turtles, or frogs should never be kept with chickens – they will be pecked at and killed.
Omlet and your pets
Omlet has all of the pet products you need to keep your furry and feathered family members healthy and happy. Having multiple types of pets is exciting, and through our line of chicken coops, chicken runs, and walk in run partitions, you’ll be able to create a safe haven for all of your animals to enjoy. And, by knowing that Omlet products are protecting your flock, you can rest easy knowing that you’ve provided them with the best chicken housing solutions available.
This entry was posted in Budgies
Guinea pigs are very popular small pets! Not only are they adorable and cuddly, but are great with children, making them a top pick.
But, it can be initially tricky to get to grips with the behaviours of cavies. However, by using sounds and postures, guinea pigs can say a lot. Though you may not understand all their body language and the noises they make, you can learn to understand what have clear meanings.
Positive sounds – how do you know your guinea pig feels comfortable?
Chutting: AKA “I’m having fun!”. Sometimes referred to as a “clucking” sound, like a mother hen would make, this is a sound of guinea pig contentment. Your cavy may make this sound towards you when you’re interacting with them, or towards their house mates, when enjoying the moment. They may also make this sound when they’re curious and exploring their surroundings.
Cooing: This sound communicates reassurance. It’s a sign of affection that cavies do for humans they love and for their young.
Purring: Guinea Pigs who feel contented and comfortable while being petted or cuddled, will make a deep purring sound, accompanied by a relaxed, calm posture.
Snoring: Yes, you’ve heard right. Guinea pigs can snore as well. If your buddy is relaxing on your lap and snores, it means he feels comfortable. Please note that if your guinea pig begins to make similar sounds to snoring or wheezing/clicking when breathing, be sure to check for any symptoms of illness with your vet.
Wheeking: AKA “Feed me!”. This is a distinctive and common vocalisation made by guinea pigs and it’s most often used to communicate excitement or anticipation of getting some tasty treats when their owner opens the treat box. It sounds like a long and loud squeal or whistle.
Whistling: Guinea Pigs may sometimes whistle without intending to because they are very excited about something.
Negative sounds – how do you know your guinea pig feels uncomfortable?
(Teeth) Chattering: AKA “Stop that!”. This is an aggressive vocalisation and shows an agitated or angry guinea pig which is ready to attack. As the name implies, teeth chattering is often accompanied by the guinea pig showing its teeth, which looks like a yawn.
Purring: If the purr is higher pitched, it’s often an indicator of annoyance and sometimes sounds like a piercing vibration. A short purr may indicate fear or uncertainty and you will notice your guinea pig remain motionless. In both circumstances, it is best to reassure your guinea pig softly.
Hissing: Like chattering, this is a sign of a guinea pig who’s angry or aggressive. It’s just like the hissing noise that a cat makes.
Shrieking: A piercing, high-pitched squeak called a shriek is a fairly unambiguous call of alarm in terms of fear or pain a guinea pig feels. If you hear this sound, check on your guinea pig to make sure everything is alright and it’s not hurt.
Squealing: You will hear this sound if your furry friends are feeling unhappy or distressed. Usually this sound comes when they’re bullied or bitten by other guinea pigs.
Whining: AKA “I don’t like this.” A whining or moaning type of squeak can communicate annoyance or dislike for something you or another guinea pig is doing.
Chirping: Just like a bird, chirping is perhaps the least understood or heard noise that guinea pigs make. This sound is made when cavies are taken away from their family. A chirping guinea pig may also appear to be in a trancelike state.
Body Language – what are positive postures?
Popcorning: This gesture consists of hopping straight up in the air, sometimes repeatedly, just like popcorn does while it is popping. The usual reason is happiness and excitement. They’re simply having a good time, they become excited, and pop – they are literally jumping for joy! Not all guinea pigs entertain their owners with “popcorning”, but most do. For more information on this, please refer to our previous blog Why Do Guinea Pigs Popcorn?.
Licking: This is a super friendly signal! If your guinea pig is licking you, it is usually a sign of affection, that they’re content and are trying to groom you – it’s possible though that they just like the taste of salt on your skin.
Sprawling out: This is usually a sign that your guinea pig is feeling comfortable and safe with you while relaxing on your lap.
Body language – what are negative postures?
Backing away: If you’re trying to pick up your small friend and they’re backing away from you, this could be a sign that they feels threatened and uncomfortable. Please back away and give your pet some space. It’s important not to forget that guinea pigs are prey animals, so their instinct is to run away if they feel threatened.
Fidgeting or biting while being held: This can often be a sign that your guinea pig just needs to go to the bathroom. On the other side, it can also indicate that your guinea pig feels uncomfortable, stressed or even scared – or is just tired of being held. Either way, try returning your guinea pig to its cage for a bit.
Freezing: If a guinea pig is startled or uncertain about something in its environment, it will stand motionless. Reassurance will release them from their nervous freeze.
Strutting: Moving side to side on stiff legs can be seen as an act of dominance or aggression, often accompanied by teeth chattering.
Tossing head in the air: A guinea pig will toss its head back when it’s getting annoyed being petted as a way of asking you to stop.
Standing on two legs: If your cavy stands on two legs and bares its teeth, it could be a sign that a fight is about to happen among him and his mate(s). To prevent injuries, it may be necessary to intervene here. It is recommended and important to try and prevent this behaviour if you’re introducing other guinea pigs for the first time.
What are neutral sounds & postures?
Mounting: This can be either sexual behaviour (males to females) or behaviour used to show dominance within the guinea pig herd’s social structure, especially between females.
Scent marking: Guinea pigs will rub their chins, cheeks, and hind ends on items they wish to mark as theirs. They may also urinate on things or other mates to show their dominance.
Sniffing: Sniffing is a way to check out what is going on around them and to get to know others. Guinea pigs particularly like to sniff each other around the nose, chin, ears, and back end. Sniffing is a way guinea pig’s explore.
Raising heads: This is usually a sign of dominance when they raise or stretch their heads with their cage mates.
Rumbling: A guinea pig rumble or rumble strutting is deeper than a purring noise. A male guinea pig makes this sound while trying to mate with a female, it is part of their mating ritual and often accompanied with a typical “mating dance”.
Running away from being picked up: Guinea pigs tend to be timid, especially at first. If they’re running away from you it’s not a rejection intrinsically but rather a natural defence mechanism. Just give them a bit of time and patience and they’ll be happy being picked up for cuddles and playtime outside of the cage from time to time.
Yawning: Like raising heads, your guinea pigs could be showing dominance when exposing their teeth to others.
Be sure to take a careful note of your furry friend‘s behaviours and after a while, you‘ll have a better understanding of it. Remember it may take a while for your furball to get used to being handled. Your guinea pig may interact with you differently than the way it does with their mates.
To provide your cavy a happy and healthy life and in order to prevent stress or depression, socialising and playtime are important parts of a guinea pig’s life. If you want to know how to teach your furball some nice tricks, check out our previous blog How to Teach Your Guinea Pigs and Rabbits Tricks.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
One of the most rewarding experiences you can have with your pets is teaching them tricks, and despite what you may have heard, it’s a lot easier than you might think.
Rabbits and guinea pigs are sociable animals, and they greatly benefit from spending time with their owners learning and playing. It can be a great way to establish trust between you and your pets, as well as a lot of fun!
Training a rabbits or guinea pig works best when you can repeat it every day – even if it’s only for five or ten minutes. Not only will your pets love the attention, having the repeated routine will help them remember the tricks you perform together.
The first thing you will need is a quiet space away from distractions. Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens are ideal, giving you the secure and familiar space in which your pets can relax and enjoy the training. You will also need some of your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ favourite treats to encourage and reinforce the learning. It can be helpful to separate your pets when training them, but equally, some pets benefit from learning from each other – for example, if you have an older trained rabbit or a young, untrained one, the young rabbit can learn tricks faster by copying his older friend. And forget what you’ve heard about old dogs and new tricks – your pets are never too old to pick up new things!
Rabbit and guinea pig tricks for beginners
When you start to train your guinea pig or rabbit, it’s all about patience and perseverance. Your pet might not seem that interested initially, but as you continue to reinforce their learning with treats, you will find they keep coming back for more. You should always start with something simple, such as ‘Circling’, a perfect trick for both rabbits and guinea pigs.
Training your guinea pig or rabbit to circle
To teach your pet how to perform Circle, simply grip a treat tight between your fingers, and hold it close to your pet’s mouth. Then lead your pet around in a circle with the treat – so that it spins on the spot. Repeat this until your pet spins around without you leading them, occasionally reinforcing them with the treat. It is important that you only give them a reinforcement treat when they successfully do the trick. Don’t feel bad if they manage to sneakily steal the treat from you – it’s all part of the fun!
Don’t worry if this takes some time to learn – the first trick can be the hardest for your rabbits or guinea pig, and once they have mastered Circle, a whole world of tricks opens up for you and your pet to enjoy together! If your pet is struggling with Circle, try making them turn in the other direction – just like us, our pets are either left or right-footed.
There are all sorts of tricks that you can teach your pets using a similar method – teach your guinea pigs to go through a play tunnel in your Zippi Run by guiding them with a treat to the beginning of the tunnel, then place the treat at the other end of the tunnel as a reward. You can also teach your rabbits to first stand up by holding the treat just out of their reach – then, when they have learnt to stand, you can start slowly moving the treat, and you will soon find your rabbit taking its first steps on two feet to get that treat.
How to teach rabbits and guinea pigs ‘figure of eight’
If you’ve succeeded in all of these treat-leading tricks, then maybe challenge yourself by trying to teach your pet to walk a figure of eight weaving between your legs – in the same way as with Circle. With some perseverance, you’ll be amazed at what your pet can learn and remember. This is a great trick for showing off to your friends, and you’ll find that your pets are a lot more comfortable around strangers after training.
Don’t forget that the treats which you give your pets are a part of their diet, and if you’re repeating your training daily as recommended, you may need to give your pet a touch less feed each day to make up for the extra nutrition they’re getting from the frequent treats. You can further increase the effectiveness of your training by exchanging your dried treats for fresh leaves. Keeping the treats healthy is important.
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs come when called
As with many tricks, the key here is treats. Offer the treat when you are close to the pet, and say the pet’s name as you do so. Eventually, they will come to associate their name with the treat. The next step is to call your pet from further away, showing the treat. Repeat the name as they take it. Call your rabbit’s name and give them a treat after they approach. After two weeks of this regular exercise – calling, treating – try calling your pet’s name without showing the treat.
If the rabbit or guinea pig does not respond, they have not yet made the connection. Revert to the first steps, and call while showing – and giving – the treat. Once your pet has made the link, they will scurry towards you when they hear their name. There’s no harm in reinforcing this with a bonus treat now and then!
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs jump through hoops
The key to this trick is stick-training. You will also need the pet training device known as a clicker. To start training your guinea pig or rabbit– and over the first few days of training – simply hold the stick near your pet. When it turns to sniff and investigate the training stick, click the clicker and offer a treat. In time, your pet will come to associate the stick with a treat.
The next stage is to hold the hoop close to your Rabbit or guinea pig, slightly off the ground. Hold the stick on the other side of the hoop, and eventually your pet will jump through to get the treat. Guinea pigs will only manage a slight hop, whereas over time you can raise the hoop quite high for a rabbit.
How to make rabbits give you a high-5!
This is a complex one, and it is only suitable for rabbits. It involves a certain amount of ‘click training’, using a clicker.
The starting point is to sit with your rabbit and wait for it to lift a paw – they do this frequently – clicking whenever it does so. For the first few days, this is far as you’ll get – raised paw, click! You can speed thing up by offering a treat high off the ground – the rabbit will lift its nose, and then its paw. Be ready with that clicker when the paw is raised!
For the next stage, position your hand near the rabbit, on the ground. When the raised paw is put down again, it will touch your hand. As soon as it does, give the clicker a click and offer a treat. Once the rabbit begins to understand, you can move your hand further away. The key is to make the rabbit realise that the click and the treat only occur when they touch your hand.
By keeping your hand on one side of the rabbit, rather than in front, you’ll make sure the paw-to-hand contact only involves a single paw – a key detail of the high-5. The rabbit will eventually know that touching the hand delivers the treat. So, the next step is to put your hand out and wait for the rabbit to make the connection and high-5 it. Once it does, give it the click and treat treatment!
This process can take time – but it’s a great trick, and one that will genuinely amaze everyone who watches it!
Runs and platforms for rabbits and guinea pigs
One of the key ways you can enrich your pets’ lives and keep them mentally and physically fit and healthy is by getting them a proper enclosure and suitable play equipment. Giving your pets the right amount of space is essential to their wellbeing, and this is easy with custom-made Zippi Tunnels and Zippi Run Platforms. These expand the space within your run and bring the many benefits of constant exercise.
Zippi Platforms increase the daily exercise possibilities for your pets and tap into their meerkat-like instincts of getting up high and acting as a lookout. Having a fun environment goes hand in hand with good training, as your pets’ happiness and healthiness is key to their engagement in learning.
If you have a large group of rabbits or guinea pigs, training them is a great way to give your pets some individual attention – you might soon find that it’s both you and your pets’ favourite part of the day!
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are small animals that are increasingly finding their place in homes. Affectionate, they will make your children happy. However, in order for them to flourish at their best, it is necessary to take care of your pets by meeting their needs perfectly. The health of your pet depends on vitamins and a specific diet.
Follow our advice to ensure that your guinea pig receives an adequate daily intake of vitamins and stays healthy.
Why should I give my guinea pig vitamin C?
Just like humans, guinea pigs do not synthesize vitamin C (also called ascorbic acid). Due to an old genetic mutation, our favorite little pets can no longer make vitamin C from glucose. The intake of vitamin C in their diet becomes a necessity.
Vitamin C is a molecule that slows down the aging of cells, helps prevent the risk of infections and accelerates healing, therefore, vitamin C intake should not be taken lightly since deficiencies can cause serious health problems in your pet.
The signs of vitamin C deficiency are plentiful and here is what should alert you:
- Your guinea pig is losing weight, does not want to eat or eats differently
- For young guinea pigs, growth inefficiency may be visible
- Your guinea pig’s immune system slows down which can cause many infections. There are also problems with the joints and difficulties for moving. It is important that you are alert to any lesions or sores that may have difficulty healing. If your guinea pig squeals when you pick him up, that’s not a good sign.
Should I give my baby guinea pig vitamin C?
The answer is yes. It is recommended that you give your guinea pig the vitamin from an early age so that it does not suffer from deficiencies.
In addition to vitamin C, which we will focus on in the rest of our article, your guinea pig also needs its dose of vitamin E. Much less mentioned than the previous one, vitamin E is also necessary for maintaining the good health of your pet. If your guinea pig is deficient in vitamin E it may be suffering from muscle problems and this may also be the cause of high mortality in female guinea pigs. This vitamin participates in the production of cells, it therefore has an essential role.
A little tip for vitamin E: Between 3 and 5g of vitamin E should be contained in 100g of food.
Foods rich in vitamin E: Fennel, broccoli, tomatoes, spinach, peppers and oatmeal.
What foods naturally contain vitamin C?
Many fruits and vegetables contain vitamin C. These foods are easily found in the supermarket. It’s even better if they come from your small vegetable garden! Always wash vegetables and fruit before feeding them to your guinea pig. It is important to present them to your pet as a treat, he will appreciate it more. Do not hesitate to vary his diet by offering different vegetables according to the seasons.
Key figures: The daily intake of vitamin C in guinea pigs should be 20 mg / lb. of body weight for an adult guinea pig. This dose can rise to 60 mg / lb. of body weight for a growing guinea pig, a pregnant female or a sick guinea pig. If you want personalized advice for your guinea pig, do not hesitate to ask your vet.
Image by Viola ‘ from Pixabay
Foods rich in Vitamin C suitable for guinea pigs in 150 g portions (be aware, it is not a question of giving 150g of the same vegetable but of varying the plate):
- Horseradish:contains 141 mg.
- Parsley: contains 140 mg.
- Kale: contains 120mg. Be careful, this food should be eaten in moderation since it may cause bloating in your animal, just like other types of cabbage (Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, white cabbage, red cabbage, green cabbage, etc.)
- Fennel: contains 120 mg.
- Red Pepper: contains 126 mg. Red peppers contain more vitamin C than green peppers.
- Broccoli: contains 93 mg.
- Dandelion: contains 58 mg.
- Chicory: contains 24 mg.
- Radishes: contains 23 mg.
- Tomatoes: contains 19 mg. In addition to providing vitamin C, they are rich in water.
- Zucchini: contains 10 mg.
- Celery: contains 7 mg.
- Cucumbers: contains 5 mg.
This list is not exhaustive, but gives you an overview of foo-
ds rich in vitamin C which you might already have at home! We advise you to vary your intake and ask your vet for more information.
Small dietary reminder: Do not feed guinea pigs rhubarb, onions, leeks, chives, garlic, avocado and lettuce (rich in nitrate) and avoid carrots as they are often too sweet.
We often forget it, but grass is also a source of food for guinea pigs as it is a complete food. You can also supplement the diet with leaves of strawberries, raspberries (beware of thorns), mulberries, willows…
Fruits must also be integrated into their diet, but be careful as they are highly concentrated in sugar and should be given in moderation.
Sometimes, despite a varied and balanced diet, vegetables and other plants are not enough. Guinea pig owners are therefore advised to provide them with vitamin C supplements.
How to give vitamins to my guinea pig? In what form should they be favored?
Vitamin C is available in a variety of forms so you should be able to find something to suit your guinea pig’s preferences. Just like humans, some will prefer capsules while others prefer a liquid form.
Liquid form: Ask your vet for advice on the brand you should choose. The vitamin is injected with a syringe. This method is complex because you have to succeed in getting your guinea pig to ingest the desired dose by placing the syringe in the side of the mouth. Avoid putting it face-on or pushing it into his mouth, he could choke. Do not put vitamin C in liquid form in water. Vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, and could break down very quickly. Protect the bottle from light and recap the bottle quickly after use.
Capsules / tablets: This is an effective way to make sure that your guinea pig is getting its daily amount of vitamin C. There are brands on the market that allow you to get the optimal dose. If your guinea pig has difficulty swallowing the tablet. You can hide it in a banana for example, or in other fruits that your guinea pig enjoys.
Powdered: This form of vitamin C should be taken with caution. The powdered sachet, once opened, must be quickly consumed by the guinea pig or the benefits may be lost. Powder on contact with air will simply lose its effectiveness. The powder has a positive though; you can put it on a piece of cucumber or another treat that your pet loves, the vitamin will then be easily ingested.
Vitamins C and E should be supplied throughout the life of your guinea pig. However, avoid overdosing. Indeed, too much vitamin C can also be dangerous for your animal and cause urinary stones. Check with your veterinarian for the exact dose of vitamin C to give your guinea pig, to help him/her stay in great shape to live life happily and healthy.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
What is popcorning in guinea pigs?
When a guinea pig is happy and excited, it will often ‘popcorn’. This describes the sudden jumps performed by guinea pigs, sometimes from a standing position, sometimes in mid-stride, and often involving a change in direction and an endearing squeak! But why do guinea pigs popcorn?
What does it mean when guinea pigs popcorn?
Guinea pigs, being naturally portly, need all the exercise they can get in order to stay trim. It is thought that when guinea pigs popcorn it is part of their natural workout. You can find out more about guinea pigs and their exercise requirements in our How Much Exercise Do My Guinea Pigs Need? blog. It may also be a behavior that causes predators to stop in their tracks, out of sheer surprise, giving the guinea pig an increased chance of escaping unscathed.
Not all guinea pigs entertain their owners with popcorning, but most of them do. The usual reason why guinea pigs popcorn is happiness. They’re simply having a good time, they become excited, and pop! They are literally jumping for joy. Well, most of the time…
Do guinea pigs popcorn when scared?
Popcorning in guinea pigs is certainly not abnormal, although guinea pigs may occasionally popcorn out of fear. You can easily tell when this is the case – was there a sudden noise, for example, or did the guinea pig spot a cat or dog or some other potential danger? If fear is the trigger, the guinea pig will run for cover after landing, and will often make some alarm calls too.
In most cases, however, a guinea pig will ‘freeze’ rather than popcorn if it perceives danger. This is a behavior common to all rodents (and rabbits too). Read more about rabbit behavior in the Learn to Read your Rabbit’s Body Language from Omlet.
Popcorning can be seen in many young mammals (although it is only called popcorning if a guinea pig is involved). Young lambs are a classic example. The behavior is often part of a running and jumping combination, actions known to guinea pig lovers as zoomies.
Encouraging a guinea pig to popcorn
Although guinea pig popcorning can’t be taught to a guinea pig as such, your pet can be encouraged in various ways. Offering a favorite treat often inspires the behavior, and in a keen guinea pig pop-corner, the very sight of the treat might, in time, produce the behavior. At this point, it crosses over into training territory, and if you use a command word (such as ‘popcorn!’) each time a treat is offered, you are in with a chance of making your pet associate the word with the treat. This means, in theory, that simply saying ‘popcorn!’ will cause the guinea pig to jump for joy!
Guinea pigs love exploring new toys, and these will often produce a spell of guinea pig popcorning, too. The excitement often lasts, too, and a new hay station, ball, ramp or section of a guinea pig tunnel will often produce a popcorn jump several weeks after the item was first introduced.
Regular play sessions with your guinea pig will be a source of pleasure for your pet, too. If they feel safe with you in their run, guinea pigs will sometimes popcorn their way into double figures. If you pick them up, and cuddle them, it will often inspire popcorning when the guinea pigs are back on the ground.
If you have a secure space outside the guinea pig cage, this can provide great stimulation for inquisitive guinea pigs. Supervise your furry friends as they nose through the space, and count how many times they perform a popcorn! This should only be allowed outdoors if the space is completely secure and safe for guinea pigs (i.e. no gaps in the fence, no other pets, no toxic plants), and if the outdoor temperature is warm (a minimum of 64 F).
Why do guinea pigs do ‘zoomies’?
It’s a little odd that the guinea pig, a short-legged animal that lacks the ability to climb very well and is usually unable to jump over an obstacle, should be able to perform these vertical take-off maneuvers. Younger guinea pigs tend to jump highest, and more portly specimens will seldom attempt to perform zoomies and popcorns. Younger guinea pigs, in general, will do most of the running and jumping, letting off all the excess energy associated with youth and vigor!
Novice guinea pig keepers have been known to mistake guinea pig popcorning for a seizure. Once you take time to watch your guinea pig you will soon spot the difference, however, as the guinea pig popcorning will become a very familiar sight, and there is no confusing the two. A guinea pig that is having a seizure will fall on its side and wave its legs around, often with jerky motions to the head. The attack will last several seconds too, unlike a swift popcorn. If, after jumping or falling, a guinea pig fails to get back to its feet immediately, it’s time to consult the vet.
Guinea pig popcorning and guinea pig zoomies are two of the things that make guinea pig keeping such great fun. These little furry characters are so full of fun, it’s contagious!
Whilst guinea pigs do a pretty good job entertaining us with popcorning, make sure that they have everything they need to stay amused with Omlet’s range of guinea pig products. From the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System to the Caddi Guinea Pig Treat Holder, your furry friend will absolutely love these awesome accessories!
While guinea pigs do a pretty good job entertaining us with popcorning, make sure that they have everything they need to stay amused with Omlet’s range of guinea pig products. From the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System to the Caddi Guinea Pig Treat Holder, your furry friend will absolutely love these awesome accessories!
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs, AKA Cavia porcellus originate from the South American Andes, where they lived amongst the varying terrains of the mountains. Foraging comes naturally to this species as their ancestors spent their days exploring the rocky landscapes and grasslands to find their next source of food. And whilst these pets are not built for marathons, what they do need is a combination of hutch and run along with extra tunnels and accessories to provide them with plenty of exercise space and mental stimulation. Omlet’s guinea pig products have been expertly designed to encourage this instinct, ensuring that today’s household cavies get the exercise they need.
How do guinea pigs exercise?
Whilst small mammals of the rodent families may all look adorable, fluffy and vaguely similar, hamsters and guinea pigs do not have the same needs. Therefore, hamster-style wheels and balls are not required (and can, in fact, be very dangerous for guinea pigs). You can discover more about this topic in our What’s The Difference Between a Hamster and a Guinea Pig? blog. Instead, you should make sure that the floor area of your guinea pigs’ hutch is a minimum of 0.75 square meters for hutches containing two cavies.
The floor area is where they’ll spend much of their time, so the bigger the living quarters, the better. The indoor part of a hutch is only half the story, though, and guinea pigs need some outdoor space, too. It is recommended that they should have at least three hours each day exploring, filled with plenty of exciting exercise, where they can run, skip, and popcorn! This is easy to arrange if you combine a hutch and run, and an all-in-one living space such as The Eglu Go Hutch for Guinea Pigs is the ideal option.
Guinea pig runs can also be linked to outdoor playpens using an arrangement such as the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System. Whilst guinea pigs no longer have to search amongst the terrains of the Andes for food, this kind of flexible system allows you to construct anything from a simple A to B tunnel, to a full-blown maze with a delicious vegetable hunt, allowing them to practise this behavior. Did you know that a guinea pig’s sense of smell is actually 25x better than humans?! Therefore, a tasty vegetable hunt using your Zippi Tunnel System, Zippi Shelter, and Guinea Pig Tunnels, is the perfect setup for physically and mentally stimulating your cavies!
For a pair of Guinea pigs, a one- to two-metre-square run provides ample space. If you can to give the pets more space than this, they will only really use it fully if it has plenty of tunnels and bolt holes to head for – guinea pigs don’t like to be too far away from somewhere safe and cosy, and will not usually roam in a large garden.
How do you exercise a guinea pig? – encouraging your cavy
Guinea pigs are more inclined to run around and have fun if they have companions to play with. So, rule number one for ensuring that your pets get enough exercise is to provide them with at least one playmate. In the wild, extended family groups could be at least10, but you should always keep the numbers to a level dictated by the size of the hutch and run. You need to get the mix right, as a male and a female will inevitably mate, which has obvious consequences in terms of space and mouths to feed.
Groups of males or groups of females are the best option. A castrated male will mix very happily and placidly with females, and any small disagreement and scuffles among your guinea pigs is unlikely to result in injury and is all part of their exercise routine.
Incorporating hiding places in your run/hutch/tunnel set up is an important detail. Guinea pigs instinctively have one eye on a safe bolt-hole when they are out and about, and scurrying back to safety is probably their most strenuous form of exercise.
You can encourage your pets to scout around and stretch their legs by putting interesting objects in their run, such as a Caddi Treat Holder, wicker toys stuffed with guinea pig treats, chews, tunnels and simple hideaways in the form of terracotta caves and igloos. They will also play happily with the cardboard tubes from the inside of loo-rolls and paper towels, or a simple cardboard box, especially if these items are stuffed with hay and fresh veggie treats.
One of the things that gives guinea pigs such a unique character is their loveable combination of endless inquisitiveness and nervousness. They follow their noses, explore everything, and then dash back to safety, making those wonderful wheep wheep sounds as they do so. With this mixture of playing and bolting, their exercise needs are easily met – all you need to do is provide the hardware.
Guinea pig exercise is all about exploring and interacting. They are very sociable animals, moving around their enclosure in groups or dashing away on little adventures of their own. You can find everything you need for your fluffy friends on the Omlet Guinea Pig shop and for even more ideas on guinea pig exercise why not take a read of our Guinea Pig Activities blog?
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Here’s why the Caddi is the perfect choice for your treat-loving pets…
- The Caddi Treat Holder decreases the rate at which your pets will eat their treats. Slower treat release through the gaps in the holder means more satisfaction for longer, and prevents over indulgence.
- The Caddi Treat Holder swings around and creates a rewarding, interactive game to keep your pets entertained, which is especially great for rainy days! Your pets will love the stimulating experience of foraging for their treats, and enjoy hours of rewarding fun.
- The Caddi allows you to feed your pets treats without having to throw them on the ground. This improves run cleanliness, reduces food waste and prevents pests, as well as being a healthier solution for your pets. Simply hang the Caddi from the roof of your pet’s run with the plastic hook and use the string to adjust the height to suit your pets.
- Endless treat opportunities! With the Caddi Treat Holder you can feed a range of fresh greens, fruits and vegetables to your pets, you can use it as a hay rack for rabbits, or fill it with pecker balls for hens. Get creative and reward your pets with exciting new flavours in the Caddi.
- You can save 50% on the Caddi Treat Holder until midnight on Monday, just by signing up to the Omlet newsletter. It’s a great deal for you, and an exciting new treat dispenser for your pets! Enter your email address on the Caddi page to claim your discount code.
Now available for just $6.49 if you sign up to the Omlet newsletter! – PROMO NOW ENDED
Terms and conditions
This promotion is only valid from 08/12/20 – midnight on 08/17/20. Once you have entered your email address on the website you will receive a unique discount code that can be used at checkout. By entering your email you agree to receive the Omlet Newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any point. This offer is available on single Caddi Treat Holders only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs or bundles with Omlet Peck Toys or Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls. Offer is limited to 2 Caddi Treat Holders per household. Subject to availability. Omlet Inc. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Choosing a small pet is a big decision. Although their needs differ, hamsters and guinea pigs require equal amounts of planning. Where will the enclosure go? Is there enough space? Who is going to carry out the daily feeding and weekly cleaning? Can you afford all the equipment – and all the food the pets will nibble through?
Small mammals of the rodent and rabbit families may all look cute, fluffy and vaguely similar, but there are important differences in the needs and personalities of each species. There are two broad groups – animals that spend all their time indoors, such as hamsters; and those that spend part of their time outdoors and therefore need runs and tunnels, such as the guinea pig.
Hamster keeping – simple, but brief
There’s no doubt that hamsters suit people who want a pet that can pretty much look after itself. But it’s important to have some kind of interaction with your pet, otherwise there’s little point in having it in the house in the first place.
The defining feature of the hamster is its nocturnal lifestyle. This means hamster owners only get to interact with their furry friends in the evening, or early in the morning. Waking them up in the daytime will only make them confused and irritable.
These night-time habits mean that bedrooms are not the ideal location for a hamster cage. Busy little hamster feet, squeaky hamster wheels, rattling water bottles and gnawing rodent teeth are the kinds of sounds guaranteed to disturb a good night’s sleep. This is an important consideration for a child – if the hamster cage is not going to be in the bedroom, will it still be appreciated and looked after?
The answer might still be yes, if the kids are happy to interact with the hamster just before bedtime. The animals can be hand-tamed, and perhaps half an hour each day is exactly what the children are looking for. They can replenish the food and water each morning before school while the hamster settles in for another day’s deep sleep.
But if your kids want a pet who sticks around during the day, a hamster isn’t the best choice. With a lifespan of just two years, their pet won’t be around for very long, and children may feel they hardly had time to get to know their little friend.
Guinea pigs – garden lovers
Guinea pigs require lots more attention than hamsters, and that’s what a lot of pet owners are looking for. Getting to know a pet GP takes time, as they are nervous little creatures, but once you’ve gained their trust, you have a friend for life.
Children will have a real sense of being part of the animals’ community. There’s a lot to be done in GP upkeep, including replenishing hay – lots and lots of it – and chopping up veg for the food bowl. Hutches, runs and tunnels need weekly maintenance. If you have a good tunnel system such as the Zippi as part of your set up, the animals can freely move between their hutch and one or several runs or playpens at their own will. Watching the animals in action will give everyone hours of fun.
A guinea pig that is well taken care of can easily live for five to eight years, so it’s a long term commitment that shouldn’t be entered into lightly.
Guinea pigs are active in the day time, so their waking, eating and sleeping patterns match those of their human neighbours.
10 questions to decide: Hamster or Guinea Pig?
Still undecided? Answer the following questions, and then total up your score, H vs. GP. The higher number reveals the ideal pet choice for you!
1. Is someone around during the day to look after the pets?
Yes – score 1 GP
No – score 1 H
2. Is the pet for a child?
Yes – score 2 GPs
No – score 1 H and 1 GP
3. Do you have some space in the garden for an enclosure or run?
Yes – score 1 GP
No – score 1 H
4. Does anyone in the household have a pet allergy? (This may mean keeping the pets outdoors)
Yes – score 2 GPs
No – Score 1 GP and 1 H
5. Do you want to keep just one pet?
Yes – score 1 H
No – score 1 GP
6. Is someone prepared to prepare fresh veg each day for the pet?
Yes – score 1 GP
No – score 1 H
7. Do you only have room for a small cage?
Yes – score 2 Hs
No – score 1 H and 1 GP
8. Is the pet owner ‘late to bed, late to rise’?
Yes – score 2 Hs
No – score 1 GP and 1 H
9. Is the cage within earshot of your bedroom?
Yes – score 2 GPs
No score 1 H and 1 GP
10. Are you looking for a pet as a long-term companion?
Yes – score 1 GP
No – score 1 H
More GPs than Hs, or the other way round? Either way, you will hopefully now have a firmer idea of which pet will best suit you and your household.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs have many little ways of showing how much they love you. They may not be as obvious as dogs or cats in this respect, but once you know the signs they’re actually quite easy to read.
Your Guinea Pig Likes Being Held
GPs are timid creatures by nature, so it takes a lot of confidence for them to come to you for stroking or holding. You can interpret that confidence as affection. To reach this stage you need to hand-tame your pet with care and patience. Once they’ve built the trust, they’ll bond with you. They won’t approach everyone in this way – it’s just you they love!
Your Guinea Pig Likes Being Hand-Fed
It will take a little while to reach this stage. Rather than holding a tasty treat in your hand and hoping for the best, it’s best to train the guinea pig in stages. Leave a little trail of treats, and call to your pet gently. Eventually they’ll make it to your hand, and once they’ve become accustomed to this contact, the special bond between pet and owner will be complete.
Your Guinea Pig Follows You Around
By nature, a guinea pig wants to hide from humans, freeze on the spot or run away. It’s a sign of affection when they become so comfortable with you that they happily follow you around. Even if there’s no treat waiting for them, at this stage in the relationship they’ll stay with you simply because they like you and you make them feel safe.
Your Guinea Pig Doesn’t Bite!
This may sound like an odd demonstration of love, but it’s actually a sign that your pet feels very comfortable in your presence. If the GP is in any way afraid or nervous, it will bite if you try to make contact. There are ways of getting round this nervous reaction; and before you know it, the instinct to bite will have been replaced by an urge to nibble your toes…!
Your Guinea Pig Nibbles You, Very Gently
Yes, nibbling is a sign of affection! It’s something these animals do to each other as part of their guinea pig grooming and bonding. Nibbling your shoes or finger ends will come naturally, once they’re comfortable with you. It’s very different from a bite – so don’t simply stick a finger into the cage hoping for a nibble and getting a nasty surprise instead!
Your Guinea Pig Climbs On You
When a guinea pig loves you, you become one of its favourite ‘safe places’. Sit down with your furry friends and they will climb into your lap. Lie down, and they will climb onto you and explore.
Your Guinea Pig Comes To Say Hello
When your guinea pigs first arrive, they will run for cover when you approach their enclosure. Familiarity takes time and patience, and you have to lead the taming process yourself in a hands-on way. Start by holding your guinea pig correctly and comfortably. Continue with a bit of treat-training, and they’ll soon be running to greet you whenever they see you approach.
Your Guinea Pig Responds To Your Voice
Guinea pigs can’t recognise their own names, but they can come to recognise your voice. You should talk, quietly and gently, from the moment you first get them. Always chat to them during hand training and feeding. They will soon come to associate that voice with all that love, and will love you back by coming when you call – no matter what you actually call!
Your Guinea Pig ‘Talks’ To You All The Time
You’ve been talking to them constantly, and they will soon return the compliment. A Guinea pig that chatters to you is very happy indeed in your company.
Your Guinea Pig Just Can’t Stop Playing!
A happy affectionate Guinea pig will dance around your feet, or will perform what is known as ‘popcorning’. This involves jumping in the air, and then running in circles, turning, and repeating the whole wonderful exercise. What better way to demonstrate love than with a good helping of popcorn?
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
If you’re considering getting a guinea pig, you’re in good company. Guinea pigs (also known as “cavies”) are fun, quirky companions for people of all ages. Though small, these little animals make great pets that are full of character and personality. They’ll happily greet you with a series of adorable noises, affectionately nuzzle you during cuddling sessions, and provide you with hours of entertainment through their various eating and play habits. If you’ve ever owned a guinea pig, you know firsthand how enjoyable and rewarding it can be to have a guinea pig in your family. But, if this is your first time owning a guinea pig, here’s a checklist of everything you need.
A friend for your guinea pig
In the wild, guinea pigs live in groups called “herds”. They’re very social by nature and do best when they have a friend or two. Often guinea pigs will establish bonded pairings, but sometimes a group of 3 can be inseparable. A lone guinea pig will become depressed quickly, so be sure to plan on keeping at least 2 guinea pigs from the start.
Same-sex siblings are often a desirable pairing. Other same-sex pairings may also be successful, but you’ll want to introduce them slowly before housing them together. Be sure to only keep neutered males with females — otherwise, you’ll end up with accidental guinea pig pups. The idea of baby guinea pigs may sound cute, but behind the cuteness is a lot of extra care and having to separate males from females when they’re old enough to be weaned. And, unless you’ve got a lot of space or multiple setups, you’ll also need to find homes for the pups.
A cozy cavy hutch
Your guinea pigs will need a hutch to live in, even if you intend to keep them in your home. Whether you opt for a modern hutch like our Eglu Go guinea pig hutch or an indoor hutch option, you’ll need to weigh your decision carefully.
A good hutch is vital to a guinea pigs’ wellbeing. It’s their home, and where they’ll spend the majority of their time. Well-made hutches provide a secure environment for your guinea pigs to sleep, socialize, and exercise, and it will last you and your pets many years. And, by investing in a high-quality hutch, you won’t have to worry about maintenance or replacements.
The Eglu Go hutch can comfortably house 2-3 guinea pigs, and is the easiest cavy home you’ll ever have the pleasure of cleaning. Our unique design encourages your guinea pigs to express their natural behaviors, making them feel right at home from the beginning. And, with twin-insulated walls, your cavy will stay comfortable in any season.
It’s a common misconception that guinea pigs can’t be housed outdoors year-round. When they’re provided with quality shelter and space, they adapt well in natural settings. Special care should be taken during extreme weather conditions and temperatures, but guinea pigs can live outdoors safely the majority of the year in a setup like the Eglu Go guinea pig hutch.
It’s important to note that guinea pigs should be brought inside when temperatures are consistently above 80 degrees or below 50 degrees. Unless you’re able to check on them every couple of hours during temperature dips or spikes, it’s best to bring them in a temperature-controlled environment.
Space to exercise and play
Like most pets, guinea pigs thrive when they have as much space as possible. It’s especially important for guinea pigs to have room to exercise, as they are prone to obesity. Their little legs are adorable, but struggle under extra weight. The attached run of the Eglu Go guinea pig hutch offers your cavy room to run and play, but you can give them even more space by adding Zippi Guinea Pig Runs and Playpens.
The Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System brings all of this together by creating a route between their hutch and playpen. In the wild, guinea pigs seek shelter in burrows or tunnels constructed by other animals. They’re constantly on the lookout for potential threats, so providing hideouts and tunnels appeals to their desire to seek shelter. And, with convenient attachment kits, the Zippi guinea pig tunnel system can be connected to wooden hutches or any wire run easily.
For additional exercise, Zippi Guinea Pig Platforms can be installed inside of our playpens. The ramp is specially designed for little cavy legs, and the safety rails help prevent accidental tumbles. Zippi platforms are a great way to utilize aerial space, and to help you interact with your guinea pig on a whole new level — literally.
A quality diet and fresh water
Guinea pigs should have free-choice access to quality pellets and fresh water at all times. Their feed should consist of timothy hay-based pellets, rather than the “trail mix” variety of food. When offered this mix, cavies will pick out their favorite bits and leave the more nutritious pieces behind. Since guinea pigs can become overweight easily, it’s important to only feed them foods that offer nutritional value and not empty calories.
Cavies are in the rodent family, and as such, their teeth continuously grow. To combat this, make sure they have access to loose timothy hay at all times. In the wild, guinea pigs graze on grasses and plants all day long to help keep their teeth trimmed and their bellies in working order. In addition to their hay, offer your guinea pigs fresh herbs, leafy greens, and guinea pig-safe vegetables in moderation to round out their diet. As an occasional treat, you can serve your guinea pigs small pieces of fresh fruit.
Vitamin C
Guinea pigs are among a small group of mammals that can’t make their own vitamin C. Like humans, they need their daily dose of this essential vitamin in order to stay healthy. Most commercially made guinea pig pellets have vitamin C added, but be sure to check labels.
There are multiple other ways to make sure your guinea pigs are getting enough vitamin C. These include:
- Store-bought vitamin C drops to add to their water
- Offer vitamin C-rich veggies like broccoli, bell pepper, or dark leafy greens
- During playtime, reward your cavy with vitamin C-rich fruits like strawberries
A predictable routine
Guinea pigs will find comfort in their daily routine and soon come to expect their meals, playtime, and bedtime. They’ll also quickly learn that you are the bringer of food, playtime coordinator, and provider of safety — and will reward you with friendly squeaks and other noises from guinea pig vernacular.
Plan to check in on your guinea pigs at least once a day, but the more you interact with themes, the better your bond will be. Your cavies will soon anticipate your visits and will be more active when you spend time with them.
Omlet has all your guinea pig needs
We’ve designed comfortable cavy homes that keep your guinea pigs safe while making caring for them easier than ever for you. Our Eglu Go guinea pig hutch, Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System, and Zippi Guinea Pig Runs and Playpens are instant housing and enrichment solutions for cavy keepers of all ages and experience levels. With Omlet, you’ll be able to start keeping guinea pigs with success from the beginning.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Small animals like rabbits and guinea pigs need to run. If provided enough room, your bunny will “boing” across the grass, and your guinea pigs will “popcorn” their way across their play space. But if you haven’t noticed these behaviors from your small pet, it may be time to add more space for them to exhibit these natural expressions of joy.
In addition to the joy that exercise brings your rabbit or guinea pig, it’s also vital for their health. Rabbits crave running, and guinea pigs need to move their little legs throughout the day to avoid becoming dangerously overweight. An under-exercised rabbit can easily become bored and depressed, and overweight guinea pigs experience joint pain and metabolic issues.
How much space should my rabbit or guinea pig have?
Realistically, you may not be able to take your rabbit for a run every day, or make sure your guinea pigs are getting their steps in. To ensure they’re getting enough exercise, try to offer as much space as possible. But unlike a pet dog, rabbits and guinea pigs can’t simply be turned out into your backyard to stretch their legs.
A high-quality hutch for rabbits and guinea pigs with an attached run is one of the best and easiest ways to help your small pet get their steps in throughout the day. Our attached runs can be extended to up to 12 feet long, giving your bunny room to boing and your guinea pig plenty of room to popcorn. And, with our heavy-duty mesh roof, sides, and flooring to help prevent bunnies from burrowing out, your small pet can enjoy their time outside safely.
How can I add more space for my rabbit or guinea pig?
Ready for even more space, or need a space away from your rabbit or guinea pig’s hutch? We’ve invented Zippi Runs and Playpens for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs to be the ultimate space for your bunnies and cavies. The same heavy-duty wire that is used for our attached runs make our Zippi Run and Playpens a safe, secure, and resilient place for your small pets to experience their world.
Choose from a variety of options to fit both your pet and space. For rabbits, our double-height playpens and runs are the perfect height to keep boisterous bunnies contained, and optional underfloor mesh keeps burrowing to a minimum. Cavies can safely enjoy our single-height runs and playpens, with or without underfloor mesh. Both our single and double heights have the option to add roof panels and anti-dig skirting for even more security.
Double the fun that our double-height runs have to offer when you add Zippi Platforms for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs. Utilize aerial space in their run, and give your pet a platform to perform tricks, meet for mealtime, or see you at eye level. Bunnies and cavies alike will feel the benefits of “taking the stairs” when they use the non-slip ramps to access our Zippi platforms. After all that exercising, the space below the Zippi platform offers a shady spot to take a post-workout nap.
Connect their spaces with a tunneling system
We didn’t just stop at playpens and runs – we also invented the ultimate tunneling system for both rabbits and guinea pigs to fulfill their natural desires to burrow. Our one-of-a-kind Zippi Tunnel System for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs can act as a standalone track set up for playtime, or connected to any run or hutch. Design routes for your rabbit or guinea pigs to go from their hutch to playpen or run and watch them enjoy being in their element.
Our Zippi tunnels are made of durable materials that are meant to last, and can be customized with our intuitive Zippi Tunnel Builder. Create twists, turns, look-out hay feeders, intersections and more when you design your own course. And keep your rabbit or guinea pig on their toes by adding onto or reconfiguring the Zippi Tunnel System at any time.
Other enriching activities for rabbits and guinea pigs
Zippi Runs and Playpens also give you an opportunity to add even more engaging activities to your pets’ space. Create a treat-filled maze for your cavy out of repurposed cardboard boxes, or make a digging box for your rabbit with a litter pan or cardboard box filled with treats and shredded paper. Add bunny or cavy shelters and play tunnels to your pets’ home to incorporate even more fun into their enclosure.
Along with exercise, diet is important to keep your rabbit or guinea pig in optimum health. Offering treats occasionally is fine, but the bulk of their diet should be timothy hay-based pellets and free-choice timothy hay. You can also offer fresh greens in our Caddi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Treat Holder to attach to their run. This elevated treat dispenser reduces waste and encourages your pets to stretch their bodies and mind to reach their treats.
Omlet and your small pets
Omlet’s goal is always to bring people and pets closer. Our entire line of Zippi products are designed to foster natural behaviors in rabbits and guinea pigs, while bringing enjoyment and wonder to their owners. Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Platforms, the Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Tunnel System and Zippi Outdoor Rabbit and Guinea Pig Runs are all creative accessories that let you and your pets experience their world like never before. You’ll be amazed by how happy and at ease rabbits and guinea pigs are when they’re in an environment that they truly enjoy.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are amazing, social pets that have lots to offer the families that share a home with them. But do you know how they got their name, how much (or little) they sleep, and how many toes they have? These 12 facts you might not know about your guinea pig will increase your love and appreciation for your cavies.
1. What’s in a name?
“Guinea pig” is actually a misnomer. They aren’t from Papua New Guinea — rather, they originate from the Andes mountains of Peru. The first part of their name is due to them being sold for a guinea (an old English coin) when sailors brought them from South America.
2. Not pigs at all
The second half of a guinea pig’s name is also a misnomer. They aren’t related to pigs at all — they’re actually members of the rodent family. Guinea pigs are so named because of the grunting noises they make, which reminded people of piglets. The other term for guinea pigs is “cavies”, or singular, “cavy.” It comes from their scientific name Cavia porcellus, with porcellus meaning “little pig.”
3. Even more misnomers
Like pigs, male guinea pigs are called boars and females are called sows. But, instead of baby guinea pigs following suit and being called piglets, they’re called pups. Even though their names imply they are similar to puppies at birth, this too, is incorrect. In reality, canine puppies and guinea pig pups have very little in common at birth.
4. Born ready
“Pups” are born with fur and their eyes open, and are very mobile from an early age. Most other species of rodents are born hairless and blind, unable to venture beyond their nest during the first few days of life. Guinea pig pups can see, walk, hear, and even have teeth. This gives them an advantage as prey animals in the wild.
5. Size and stature
Fully grown guinea pigs weigh between 1 and 3 pounds and are 8 to 16 inches long. Boars tend to be larger than sows, but should not be overweight. Guinea pigs are prone to obesity, which may be difficult to detect due to their oblong, potato-like shape. Cavies are considered overweight if you can’t feel their spine, ribs, or hips through their fat, or if they develop visible fat pads.
6. A longer lifespan than other rodents
Small pets aren’t known for their long lifespans, but guinea pigs actually live a relatively long life when they’re well cared for. The average lifespan of a domesticated guinea pig is 5-7 years.
7. Abnormal number of digits
Guinea pigs have 4 toes on their front feet, but only 3 on their back feet. This brings their total toe count to 14. But, some guinea pigs may have more than the expected number of toes if they have a condition called “polydactyly” which is a genetic mutation that causes extra toes to grow.
8. Ever-growing teeth
Like other rodents, cavy teeth grow continuously throughout their lives. It’s important to give them food and treats to gnaw on to help them keep their teeth in check. Serving your guinea pigs’ favorite chews in a Caddi guinea pig treat holder will help keep their teeth-trimming treats at an accessible level.
9. Surprisingly little sleep
Guinea pigs don’t sleep much. In fact, they only sleep about 4-6 hours in a 24-hour period. They’re also proficient in power napping — taking short naps lasting anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes, but usually not more than 30 minutes at a time. Cavies need a comfortable guinea pig hutch to get optimum rest during these short slumbers.
10. Very vocal
Guinea pigs have their own language, and are extremely vocal. Their broad range of noises include: purring, whining, shrieking, cooing, rumbling, hissing and teeth chattering. It’s very common for guinea pigs to greet their owners in what cavy keepers have dubbed a “wheek” — a happy, excited noise that a guinea pig emits.
11. Cavy companions
Guinea pigs are very social animals and need companionship to thrive. Their vast vocabulary and social relationships are best shared with other cavies. Bonded pairs are usually the happiest, but some guinea pigs will happily live in a social group of 3 or more. Remember to only keep same-gendered or spayed and neutered pairs together to avoid accidental litters.
12. A coat for every occasion
Guinea pigs come in a variety of colors and textures. Their different breeds create long and short coats with textures ranging from curly and wavy, to short and smooth, to no hair at all.
Owning guinea pigs with Omlet
Cavies are cute, quirky pets that the whole family can enjoy. By housing them in secure outdoor guinea pig hutches, you’ll be able to observe all of the wonderful attributes that your cavies display. Elevate their favorite foods and watch them exhibit these natural behaviors, while observing the unique attributes that make guinea pigs some of the most entertaining and enjoyable pets to share your space with.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
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