With just a few weeks until we fall into the most magical season of all, now marks the perfect opportunity to get your guinea pigs winter-ready. Finding the ultimate cosy coat is one way we can prepare for the season ahead, but for our furry friends, the preparation is, of course, slightly different. And whilst your cavy already has a soft, fluffy coat of their own, this doesn’t mean they can brave the colder temperatures without our help.
Fortunately, getting your pet winter-ready doesn’t have to mean a complete transformation of their autumnal hideaway to a brand new winter wonderland. Instead, with these simple steps, your guineas will be popcorning with joy into the new season and ready to brace the change.
Do guinea pigs like winter?
If you could translate your guinea pigs’ purrs, whistles, and coos, they’d tell you that their favourite temperature is somewhere around 15-24 degrees Celsius. And whilst in their natural habitat of the South American Andes, guinea pigs would cuddle up to each other to stay warm, nowadays, they have become accustomed to their new environments. Therefore, as an owner, it’s important that you, too, take the right steps to make sure your cavy isn’t cold.
Can guinea pigs live outside in winter?
Omlet’s Eglu Go Guinea Pig Hutch has been designed as an all year home, depending slightly on where you live and how cold it gets. However, for hutches unlike the Eglu which has twin wall insulation, it’s advisable to move your piggies into a shed or garage in the upcoming months. However, before you do so, you should know that these pets aren’t amazing at adapting too well to recurring and drastic changes in temperature. Therefore, being brought in, then out, then in…and out (!) is harmful. You should either bring them in for the entire winter or for a few weeks when it is very cold. Take a read of our Where To Put My Guinea Pig Hutch guide, so that you pick the perfect spot for your cavies’ winter retreat.
Preparing for winter
Your guinea pigs are ready to grow their thicker winter coat and you’ve nearly turned the heating on…so what now?
Invest in warm bedding
If you haven’t already, it’s about time to put on that cosy bedding that’s been stored away since March…(that applies to your guinea pigs too!). Warm bedding is a winter must-have for us and our guinea pigs, so be sure to stock up on loads of extra to line their home. It’s especially important that this stays clean and dry.
Another brilliant option is the Snugglesafe Microwave Heatpad, which can be used in your pet’s Eglu Go Guinea Pig Hutch. All you have to do is microwave the pad for a few minutes and it will provide up to 10 hours of warmth!
Get a bottle cover
As the weather gets colder, keep an eye on your guinea pigs’ water bottles. Freezing temperatures can lead to the metal spout and the actual water becoming frozen, inevitably meaning your cavies won’t have access to one of their basic needs. Not only will a water bottle cover mean their water bottle won’t freeze in winter, but also doubles up in summer to keep their drink nice and cool!
Avoid the grass
Your guinea pigs may have had a summer of fun exploring all the luscious green grass of the garden, but winter is unfortunately not the time for outdoor exploring. Putting your guinea pig down on grass when it’s especially cold or damp isn’t wise. For one, it’s uncomfortable for your guinea pig. It can also, however, lead to illness. Since these furballs have sensitive skin, getting it wet on a regular basis can be detrimental, in combination with being cold and not being able to dry off quickly. This doesn’t mean winter can’t be entertaining for your guinea pigs though! Check out our range of guinea pig toys for some indoor play inspo.
Keep on top of their diet
Guinea pigs should be fed a balanced diet all year round, including the essential nutrient vitamin C. We even wrote all about why vitamin C should be a staple in your guinea’s diet! Vitamin C aside, stocking up on plenty of calories is super important during the colder months as cavies burn more calories in order to stay warm. You should continue to feed them both fresh and dry food every day, as well as an unlimited supply of hay, but a few extra calories this season won’t hurt anyone!
Use hutch covers
Covering your cavies’ hutch is another way to keep them warm during winter, so it’s a good idea to invest in an extreme temperature jacket. This can be wrapped over the hutch and provides further protection to your Eglu Go. If you don’t have an Eglu, you can hang a roll of carpet over the hutch, or use a blanket, which you can nail down to keep in place. Please note however, that guinea pigs must have ventilation in their hutch at all times.
How to tell if a guinea pig is too cold
Before the big chill sets in, taking these measures to keep your cavies cosy will mean an enjoyable winter all round. But, it’s still good to know how to tell if your guinea pig is feeling a little frosty.
Whilst we don’t speak the same language as our pets, they’re fantastic at communicating their emotions, likes, and dislikes. Guinea pigs are no different and will use body language to tell you they could do with some warming up! Just like us, guinea pigs will shiver when they’re cold, as well as curling into a ball, known as huddling. Alternatively, your piggies might craft a makeshift blanket with their bedding in an attempt to warm their body temperature. You should also feel their ears, and if they’re cold, then you guessed it, the rest of their body is cold too.
Now that you’re ready for winter with your guinea pigs, you can sit back, enjoy a cup of tea under a fluffy blanket, assured that your furry friends will be happy, safe and warm this season.
If you’ve ever needed to get inside your Zippi run to refresh food and water, or pick up your pet, you will likely have noticed the smaller openings make it difficult to reach inside, and removing a whole panel is rarely worth the hassle. The Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs have been designed to solve this problem.
How do the Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs work?
Available in varying pack sizes to suit your needs, the locks allow you to replace clips between mesh panels on three straight edges of any panel you wish to open up.
The Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs encases the edge of two mesh panels and secures them together in the same way as a run clip, however, once unlocked both mesh panels are still held in position until all locks are opened to lift open the panel you wish to use as an entry point, without it collapsing into your run and endangering your pets.
Can I use multiple Easy Access Locks for Zippi at once?
You can even use multiple Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs to convert adjoining panels of larger runs so you can open up a larger door or run roof. Simply follow these handy diagrams to see how many locks you need to create your desired run opening.
How will the Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs help me and my pets?
With this improved accessibility to your run it is much easier to reach or climb in to feed your pets, tidy and clean the run floor and accessories, pick up your pet to take out of the run, or play with them inside. Making it easier for adults and children to access the run and play with their rabbits and guinea pigs inside ensures pets get as much playtime as possible to be happy, healthy and closely connected to you. To find out more about how the Zippi Runs and Playpens could help your rabbits to have more space and plenty more playtime and exercise, take a read of this blog.
The locks are durable, predator resistant and super simple to operate – even little hands can do it! The integrated safety button requires you to push and turn simultaneously in order to open the lock, making it harder for unwanted visitors to gain access.
Watch the Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs in action in this YouTube video…
The new Easy Access Lock for Zippi Runs are now available online, from $3.00 each.
For more rabbit and guinea pig products, shop the Omlet website to ensure that your furry friend has everything they ever need!
Rabbits and guinea pigs: both small, furry, and adorable. These species share many similarities, and people often wonder, can rabbits and guinea pigs live together?Aside from the traits they share, their dietary needs are actually different, as is the language they speak. Find out how these two species differ, and whether or not you can keep rabbits and guinea pigs together.
Keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together
The short answer to whether or not you can keep rabbits and guinea pigs together is: yes, but with several factors and modifications to keep in mind, and it should only be attempted by owners with experience with both pets. These two animals have different dietary needs, don’t understand each other, and have different space requirements. The main thing to consider is that each species should have their own space — especially for sleeping and eating. Rabbits and guinea pigs can, in some cases, share a communal run or playpen during the day, as long as they have plenty of their own space to retreat to.
Dietary needs of rabbits and guinea pigs
While their feed pellets may look the same, the contents are actually quite different. Guinea pigs can’t make their own Vitamin C, which means they must eat in their diet. Rabbits on the other hand, are able to produce their own Vitamin C, and can become ill if they ingest excess amounts. Their food bowls with pellets should be kept separated to avoid deficiencies for your guinea pigs and overdoses for your rabbits.
Both rabbits and guinea pigs can eat the same fresh fruits and vegetables, so their treats and supplemental offerings can be the same. A communal Caddi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Treat Holder can be filled and hung in a place for both rabbits and guinea pigs to enjoy. Both species also thrive on free-choice timothy hay, which can also be kept in a common area.
Language barriers between rabbits and guinea pigs
Rabbits communicate primarily through body language, while guinea pigs are very vocal. Because of these very different types of communication, rabbits and guinea pigs won’t always understand each other. For example, rabbits thump their back legs as a warning, but guinea pigs will not understand this method of conveying displeasure. Similarly, the many sounds that guinea pigs make can startle rabbits and create stress in their otherwise quiet environment.
Rabbits and guinea pigs can learn the basics of each others respective languages, but it comes with time and patience. It’s best to give each species plenty of their own space to escape the presence of the other when needed.
Zippi Runs and Playpens provide plenty of space for both rabbits and guinea pigs. Rabbits need more space than guinea pigs due to their size and energy levels, but it’s important for guinea pigs to have enough room to exercise, as they are prone to becoming overweight.
The Zippi Tunnel System connects the runs and playpens together, or to your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ hutch. The closing doors can restrict movement between pens, making it easier to keep their food separated at mealtimes. Rabbits naturally tunnel in the wild, and guinea pigs naturally utilize the burrows of other animals — which makes the Zippi Tunnels an excellent choice for both species to enjoy.
Zippi Platforms adds vertical space to your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ runs. Both animals enjoy gaining a new vantage point and lounging in the shade offered beneath, but rabbits especially crave a higher view of the world around them. This also gives more opportunities for your rabbits and guinea pigs to take a break from each other’s company.
The personalities of your pets
One of the most important factors to consider when keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together is their individual personalities. Some rabbits are naturally passive, while others may bully guinea pigs. Bold guinea pigs may provoke rabbits, while the more timid ones may hide perpetually.
Males of both species should always be neutered to help prevent displays of aggression. If possible, females should also be spayed for the same reason — though males may be more prone to aggression than females. And, remember that each species needs at least one companion of their own kind, so be prepared to keep a pair of rabbits and guinea pigs. This will ensure each species has a friend to converse with in their natural way, and will keep them from becoming lonely.
Omlet and your rabbits and guinea pigs
Rabbits and guinea pigs are different animals, but can coexist when they have considerate owners. By making adjustments to their Eglu hutches. Dedicated rabbit and guinea pig Zippi Runs and Playpens will give your pets the space they need, and an opportunity to fulfil their nutritional requirements without interfering with the other. And, with the addition of a Zippi Tunnel System and
Zippi Platforms, your rabbits and guinea pigs can spread out or come together as often as they see fit. With our products, you can sit back and enjoy watching how animals can adapt to live peaceably with another species, while maintaining your own peace of mind.
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an essential nutrient used to repair tissue, form collagen and keep the immune system working as it should. Something that us humans and guinea pigs have in common, which is pretty unique in the animal world, is our inability to synthesize and store vitamin C. This means that guinea pigs, just like humans, must get vitamin C from food in order to stay happy and healthy.
Luckily lots of common guinea pig food is high in vitamin C, but it’s important that you as an owner make sure that you keep track of your guinea pig’s diet so that they definitely get enough.
Is vitamin C good for guinea pigs?
Not only is it good, but it’s also essential for pet guinea pigs. If your pet doesn’t get enough vitamin c, they can get really ill and develop the extremely serious condition scurvy.
Signs that your pet is not getting enough vitamin c in their food includes:
Painful joints, resulting in a change in movement or an unwillingness to move
General lethargy and loss of appetite
Dental and fur issues
Hemorrhaging, which shows up as bruises on the body
If you think your guinea pig is ill, be it from lack of vitamin c or any other issue, it’s important to speak to your vet as soon as you notice any changes. Read our blog about guinea pig body language to learn more about what your pets’ behavior could be telling you.
How much vitamin C should I give my guinea pig?
It’s generally advised to give your guinea pig between 10 and 30mg every day, however, how much vitamin C guinea pigs need varies somewhat depending on age, weight and other circumstances. Young guinea pigs who are still growing need more than the average adult cavy, and pregnant or nursing guinea pigs, or those with an underlying health condition, should get about 30 mg or in some cases more.
Most guinea pigs will get what they need from a healthy and balanced diet, but it’s good for you as an owner to know which foods to definitely include to reach the right levels.
What is the best source of vitamin C for guinea pigs?
Guinea pig pellets from good quality pet shops are normally enriched with vitamin c, so a large part of your pets’ vitamin c will come from that.
Apart from the pellets, you should give your pets about a handful or two of fresh greens every day. Fresh vegetables, and leafy greens in particular, are a great source of vitamin C, and by providing them with a varied diet you can be sure that they are getting enough nutrients and vitamins.
Humans often opt for citrus when we want to boost our own vitamin C intake, but that’s not a good alternative for guinea pigs, and fruit in general is often too sweet to give on a daily basis. In fact, lots of vegetables have just as high, or even higher vitamin C content than for example oranges, including:
Peppers
Tomatoes
Spinach, kale and parsley
Broccoli and asparagus
While a good quality feed, some fresh greens and a constant supply of hay should keep your guinea pigs happy and healthy, there are other ways to boost their vitamin intake. This is particularly helpful if you’ve got a pet who is ill and struggling to eat, or if you for one reason or another don’t have access to fresh vegetables. Some of these include:
A supplement vitamin C tablet
Liquid vitamin C
Vitamin C enriched treats
Make sure what you’re giving your pet is specifically designed for guinea pigs, and always read the label to make sure you’re giving the right dose. You might even want to ask your vet before you start giving supplements regularly.
Avoid water-based vitamin C drops. Once in the drinking water, the concentration is very low, so your pet will have to drink a lot to get any benefits. What’s more is that it can make the water taste different, which can instead turn your pet off their water, which is even more of a worry.
What happens if a guinea pig gets too much vitamin C?
If your pet occasionally consumes more vitamin C than the recommended daily dose, that’s nothing to worry about, as any excess vitamin C the body doesn’t need will come out with the urine. In general, it’s difficult for a guinea pig to overdose on vitamins, but if they regularly get more than 30mg it can result in serious health issues, for example a condition called pseudo-scurvy, a reduced sensitivity to the vitamin.
Too much vitamin over a long period can cause bladder and kidney stones and can hinder healthy development for growing guinea pigs.
If you’re feeding your guinea pig a balanced diet with good quality guinea pig pellets you generally don’t have to worry about this, it’s more of a problem if you’re providing additional vitamin C in the form of supplements.
Other important vitamin C information
It’s good to know that even if you’re doing what you can to provide your guinea pig with everything they need, they can still get a vitamin c deficiency. Often this has got to do with out of date or badly stored food. Vitamin C has a sell-by date, and the nutritional content decreases as the food gets older.
This applies to fresh fruit and veg, as well as store bought pellets and vitamin C supplements, so make sure you always keep your guinea pigs food fresh and stored in the right way. Get rid of anything that is out of date, and never give your pets moldy or otherwise gone over greens.
Whether you’re buying a present for an animal loving child or for your own little pet, we’ve got the perfect gifts, big and small. Check out these top tips, now at an amazing price in the Omlet Black Friday Sale!
Shelters and Play Tunnels
Give your rabbits or guinea pigs something fun to play with on their run this winter with Zippi Shelters and Play Tunnels. Available in green or purple, the shelters are a great way of providing a safe and secluded place for your pets to hide, or as a platform they can jump onto and watch the world go by.
The play tunnels can be placed independently anywhere on the run for your pets to chase each other through, or be connected to the shelters to create a maze that mimics their wild burrows. Entertainment and safe spot all in one!
Caddi
The Caddi Treat Holder is the perfect stocking stuffer for chickens, rabbits or guinea pigs, or their owners. The Caddi can be filled with a range of pet appropriate treats, and will swing as the animals peck or bite the treats. It’s the ideal both mental and physical challenge, with the added bonus of a tasty reward!
Hung from the roof of your hutch and run, the height of the Caddi can easily be adjusted, and it’s super easy to remove it for refilling and cleaning.
Qute Hamster and Gerbil Cage
The Qute allows hamster and gerbil owners to get closer to their pets. The modern design means you will be happy to display the piece in your kitchen or living room, and the large, crystal clear bedding tray makes it easy for pet owners of all ages to see what their pets are up to. The bedding tray also offers a convenient way of getting your hamster or gerbils out of the cage for playing, socializing and exercise.
Geo Bird Cage
Upgrade your parakeet/budgie or other small birds’ home this winter with the stunning Geo Bird Cage. The Geo has got everything your bird needs to become a natural part of the home, and you can accessorize with baths, mirrors and toys for your pets to enjoy.
Eglu Go Hutch
Do your current pets need a home improvement? The Eglu Go Hutch is the perfect way of keeping rabbits or guinea pigs in the garden. The handy integrated hutch and run solution allows your pets to run in and out as and when they like during the day, and when it’s time for a nap they can curl up in the safe and insulated house. In winter you can move the hutch closer to the house, making cleaning and spending time with your pets even easier.
It’s that time of year again when we say goodbye to summer and welcome in the cooler, shorter fall days. For many pet owners, summer is a great opportunity to spend quality time with their animals; playing outdoors and enjoying the warmer weather. But, the change in season doesn’t have to mean that the good times have to stop. So whether you’ve got a chicken, guinea pig or are a pet parent to rabbits, here are 8 tips for making their run more fun this fall.
Why do pets need runs?
It’s important that you continue to keep your pets exercised throughout the year, and animal runs are great for this, giving your furry friends the freedom to roam within a safe and confined environment. Omlet has a range of runs for chickens, rabbit runs and guinea pig runs, which are all predator-resistant, with their innovative mesh designs.
Whilst runs are fantastic for providing your animals with more space, adding a few extras over the next coming months can help to keep both you and your pets entertained.
For guinea pig and rabbit runs
Pig out on veggies
Cavies and rabbits love their fresh veg – you can even make a game of it! Try hiding their favorite pieces of veggies around the run and have them go off to find their treats. This game is the perfect opportunity for you to spend some quality time outside with your pet. Just don’t forget to clean up any remains from the run floor to avoid pesky predators sniffing out the snacks.
Upgrade your pets’ run to an adventure playground withpet play tunnels. They can simply be attached to your guinea pig or rabbits’ run and provide them with a new way to exercise. Plus, they’ve been designed to mimic the innate burrowing behaviors of rabbits and guinea pigs too.
And since both pets have a natural desire to seek a hiding space in a hole, you can be assured that while they’re having fun, they’re feeling safe. The Zippi shelters easily attach to the Omlet play tunnels via connector rings, too, which means you can create a fun maze for your furry friends.
Guinea pig and rabbit toys
Who said toys were just for cats and dogs? Give a new toy to your small animal to help to bust their boredom this season. Toys for guinea pigs and rabbits can simply be hung up in their run and will keep them active, engaged, and curious.
For chicken runs
Make use of those crisp, fall leaves
The leaves of fall in your backyard can actually be a great source of entertainment for your chickens. All you have to do is build up a pile of crisp fall leaves in your chickens’ run, and watch them have endless hours of fun pecking. You can even add some sunflower seeds to your pile to have your flock hunt for.
Omlet’s Chicken Swing
Omlet’s Chicken Swing is the perfect way to make your chickens’ run more fun this fall. The Omlet Chicken Swing will have your chicken in their element, as they get to grips with their new toy. Not only will this run accessory provide them with plenty of entertainment, but you’ll have just as much fun watching them hop on and off and swing back and forth.
Toys for chooks
Chickens can have toys too. A bored chicken can lead to behavior such as flock bullying and abnormal feather loss, so at this time of year it’s even more important to keep your chickens entertained. Naturally, as the weather drops, these animals get increasingly restless, with less grass and weeds for them to forage on, as they enjoyed over the summer. A chicken peck toy though, is one option to keep your flock happy, providing them with physical and mental stimulation.
Pumpkin run fun
It wouldn’t be fall without pumpkins! Simply place half a pumpkin in your chickens’ run for them to have as a special treat. Your flock will have no problems pecking at the pumpkin raw, so there’s no need for any cooking; just slice the top of the pumpkin off and then in half, to place outside in their run. Something to be cautious of here though, is to ensure that you remove any pumpkin remains from the run once finished to avoid any unwanted visitors such as rodents at night.
Omlet and your pets’ fall
Omlet knows that this time of year can be more difficult for pet owners but whatever the season brings this year, with Omlet’s range of guinea pig, rabbit and chicken products you and your pets can continue to have fun all fall long. And, as the end of the season brings colder weather, don’t forget to have a read of the Omlet guides on keeping yourguinea pigs, rabbits, and chickens safe and warm when they’re outdoors.
Hamsters and guinea pigs are relatively low maintenance pets that make a great choice for new pet owners. The two animals have several fundamental differences, though. Knowing what these differences are will help you make the right choice when choosing your pet.
Wild hamsters live across large areas of Europe and Asia, notably in Syria, China and Russia, which are the ancestral homes of most hamsters kept today as pets. These little rodents prefer dry, warm climates.
Guinea pigs are native to the mountainous regions of South America – Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. However, they belong to the same broad family as hamsters – the rodents. This kinship is a bit misleading, though, as the animals have distinctly different needs and dietary requirements.
Hamster vs Guinea Pig
While these two critters do have things in common, their different habitats and ways of life mean that a hamster’s home setup is very different from that of a guinea pig.
One major thing that differentiates hamsters and guinea pigs is lifespan. Hamsters have shorter lifespans than guinea pigs, generally living for 2 to 4 years. This is because they are small and have metabolisms that work much faster than their guinea pig cousins. Guineas generally live from 5 to 8 years, with some individuals reaching 10 years.
Another key difference between the two is their size. As we mentioned above, hamsters are much smaller than guinea pigs, with the average size being in the region of 5-15cm. Even the smallest guinea pigs are larger than the biggest hamsters, with the average guinea being 20-30cm long. This means that guinea pigs need larger enclosures.
While the size of the animal and its enclosure needs to be considered, these factors don’t have a huge impact on general pet care. The following differences are the ones that need to influence your decision.
The four main differences between hamsters and guinea pigs
1. Sleeping patterns
This is possibly the biggest difference between the two species. Hamsters are generally nocturnal creatures, which means they prefer the nightlife. Many hamster owners will be able to tell you how their hamster starts running in its squeaky wheel at 1am!
Guinea pigs, on the other hand, are mostly active during the day, taking naps whenever they feel the need. Rather than sleeping for one long spell each day, they recharge their batteries whenever they feel like it. They do tend to sleep more during the night, though.
2. Social needs
Hamsters and guinea pigs have completely different social needs. In the wild, guinea pigs live in groups of three to ten individuals. They have evolved to be social animals and will soon become sad and stressed if they are denied this interaction. Lonely guinea pigs have even been known to die when left in isolation for too long.
For this reason, it is highly recommended that owners should keep at least two guinea pigs. Keeping just one can work as long as someone is willing and able to step in and do the socializing. Because of their need to be with other animals, guinea pigs will be much more willing than hamsters to spend time, play and interact with humans. This factor – and their handy habit of sleeping at night – can make them the superior choice for children who want to play with their pets.
Hamsters are loners. That, at least, is the case with the Syrian or Golden hamster, which is by far the most popular pet hamster species. While they can live with companions, the other hamster species are perfectly happy – and may in fact be even happier – living on their own. Many hamsters that are kept together can become aggressive towards one another, especially if two males are being kept in close quarters.
If looked after properly and hand-tamed from an early age, hamsters will form a bond with their owners and will be glad to spend time with them. An unsocialized hamster will often bite, though, and this is another off-putting thing for children.
3. Diet
The dietary requirements of hamsters and guinea pigs are probably the most significant difference between the two species. Hamsters are omnivorous and will eat pretty much anything they can find. They famously store food in their cheeks for later, making their cute faces puff up, almost doubling the animal’s size.
The easiest option for feeding a hamster is to buy a pre-made food mix that has all the things they need, rather than sourcing your own insects and extra protein to supplement the plants and vegetables in their diets. You can feed your hamster fresh fruit and vegetables, as long as they are washed, and as long as they don’t completely replace the hamster mix. Grains and cereals make a good addition to their diets, too. Also, be sure to provide your hamster with something to chew on, such as a piece of wood or some straw, as this helps keep their teeth in check.
Unlike hamsters, guinea pigs are vegetarian. In the wild, they eat fruits, plant roots and – most importantly – lots of high-fibre grasses. As with hamsters, domestic guinea pigs should be fed a specially made food mix. However, these often have lots of carbohydrates and not enough fibre. For this reason, your guinea pigs will also need lots of fresh vegetables, fruits, grass and hay alongside their food mixes. Hay is crucial for keeping the guinea pigs’ teeth in check, and it also ensures a healthy balance in the stomach bacteria the animals need for digesting their food efficiently.
4. Space
Hamsters are always kept indoors, as they need to be kept somewhere consistently warm. Being small creatures, they don’t need a huge amount of living space, and an enclosure such as the Qute can be incorporated into a room as an attractive part of the furniture as long as they are taken out of the cage for daily exercise and play.
Guinea pigs, in contrast, need a larger hutch and a run, as they are not only bigger than hamsters but need to be kept in groups. Some are kept indoors throughout the year, but if you have space for a guinea pig run in the garden, the animals will love it, and children will be able to interact with their pets in the most effective way.
The upshot here is that a hamster can be easily accommodated if you only have a small indoor space, but a guinea pig can’t.
Overall, both hamsters and guinea pigs make great pets, and both are low maintenance. The key differences between the two are size, lifespan and diet. When choosing which of these wonderful little animals to keep, it mainly boils down to personal preference. As long as you care for them properly, they will soon form a close bond with you.
Keeping your pets and their homes clean and hygienic is one of the best ways to prevent illness or distress. It’s obvious when your guinea pig is happy and in good health, as they will be running, playing, chattering and acting as they usually do. However, if your guinea pig seems to be under the weather, but a trip to the vet has identified no underlying problems, this could be a sign that better hygiene is required. Here are 5 guinea pig care tips, so that you can be on your way to helping your cavies!
1. Avoid frequent bath time!
If your guinea pigs’ coats are in need of a good clean, there are some important things to bear in mind. Whilst it might be your first instinct to want to bathe them, this can actually be bad for your guinea pigs’ health. In particular, this can lead to developing dry skin.
Guinea pigs actually maintain a good level of cleanliness through self or group-grooming naturally. If a guinea pig coat becomes matted with dirt, you may need to use a chemical-free wipe to slightly wet the fur, enabling you to clean it thoroughly. If a guinea pig’s coat gets wet in the process of cleaning, make sure they have plenty of blankets and warm toys to surround themselves with afterwards.
However, it’s still a good idea to invest in a grooming kit, especially if your guinea pig lives alone. Therefore, you can take the place of their fellow guinea pigs in maintaining their lovely coats!
2. Keep on top of dental hygiene
If you notice that your guinea pigs’ teeth have grown very long, or they’re having trouble eating, it’s a good idea to check with your vet if any action needs to be taken. You can read more about taking care of guinea pigs’ teeth in this Omlet guide.
3. Trim your guinea pigs’ nails
Similarly, you should keep an eye on your guinea pigs’ toenails. Guinea pig toenails need cutting regularly, to keep up with their care regime. If their nails are white, then it is easier to see the blood vessel, or the quick, running down the centre of their nails. This way, you can trim the tip of the nail and avoid the quick. With darker nails however, it can be more difficult to see this. If in doubt, contact your vet, who will be able to help you out with this procedure.
4. Regularly clean your guinea pigs’ hutch
You may be wondering how to clean a guinea pig’s cage, but it’s pretty simple (especially if you have an Eglu Go Guinea Pig Cage!).
Plastic hutches
A healthy guinea pig is a relatively clean animal that relies heavily on the nature and safety of their habitat. The cage, hutch and enclosure are the best places to start when looking at ways to improve your pets’ environment. Depending on the material your enclosure is made of, you will need specific products to clean it. Using the right sort of cleaner will ensure you get the most out of every home and piece of play equipment you buy for your guinea pig.
If your guinea pigs live in a cage or caged hutch, a pet-safe liquid spray disinfectant is perfect for cleaning the cage and any plastic base or guinea pig play equipment. It’s a good idea to soak the cage in water and let it dry before disinfecting, as this will loosen any large pieces of dirt and allow the spray to do its job! If regular disinfecting isn’t doing the trick and the hutch retains unpleasant odors, try using hutch cleaning granules, which have been specifically designed to eliminate smells from your pet’s home. When it comes to how often you should clean a guinea pig cage, the rule of thumb is that it should be done on a twice-weekly basis. This involves taking all of their bedding out of their sleeping area, emptying and cleaning their food bowl, cleaning their feeding area, replacing all the bedding and replenishing the food. The more guinea pigs you have the more often this will need to be done, as more excretions will be produced and more mess made.
Wooden hutches
If your guinea pigs live in a wooden hutch, you need to disinfect it as you would with a regular cage, and it’s also a good idea to clean it every month or so with hot soapy water and scrub the wooden surfaces. Try to minimize soaking the wood by squeezing out most of the water from your sponge before cleaning. If the hutch contains any fleece liners, these are usually machine washable, and it’s good practice to give them a clean more regularly than you would the rest of the hutch. Regardless of which type of hutch you use, always let it dry thoroughly after cleaning before reintroducing the guinea pigs.
5. Replace your guinea pigs’ equipment
Everything you buy for your guinea pigs has a different lifespan, but it is often a good idea to replace items before they deteriorate completely. A typical pet’s water bottle could last many years without breaking, but replacing it every year or so is a good idea. This is because repeated wear and tear of the plastic bottles can result in the animals ingesting plastic, in small pieces or as micro-plastics in the water itself.
Likewise, if you feel that any piece of equipment is no longer possible to fully clean, even after a thorough attempt, it is a good idea to replace it. Your pet would appreciate having something new to play with. Check out Omlet’s range of guinea pig run accessories that are bound to keep your cavies thoroughly entertained!
Although there is no way to ensure your guinea pigs will always stay healthy, paying attention to their hygiene and nutrition will set your pets up for long and healthy lives. Doing plenty of research on your guinea pigs is one of the best things you can do as a pet owner. For example, guinea pigs need lots of vitamin C, and they have been known to lack this essential nutrient in their diets. We’ve even written about why vitamin C is so Important for guinea pigs in a previous blog. They will benefit from the occasional use of supplements.
Keeping up to date with the latest advice on guinea pig health has never been easier than on the Omlet Blog, so be sure to keep checking back in for new articles! You can also visit the Omlet website. Where you’ll find guinea pig run accessories, feeders, and hutches that your pets will love!
Some animals, such as rabbits and guinea pigs, are herbivores. Others, like hamsters, are omnivorous. Finally, there are also carnivores like cats that cannot survive without meat.
All animals need to have their nutritional needs satisfied. However, this does not mean you can’t have a vegan dog. Vegan cats, though, are a lot trickier.
Can my dog have a vegan diet?
If you were to meet a species of animal for the first time and had to make an accurate guess about its diet, you would get lots of clues by looking at its teeth. The teeth of a dog, like the teeth of a bear, proclaim loud and clear that this animal is an omnivore – that is, one that eats both meat and vegetables. If you think of your dog as a domesticated wolf, you get a good idea of its natural diet.
However, as the panda proves, a supposed meat-eater can sometimes get by perfectly well on a vegan diet. A panda’s teeth are similar to any other bear’s – long canines for meat-eating and molars for grinding vegetation. And yet pandas don’t eat anything other than bamboo. So, if a bear can be vegan, does that mean you can have a vegan dog?
The answer is yes – but it’s a yes with lots of small print! A dog requires a diet that contains the fats and proteins it would get from meat. It is dangerous to ignore this basic need and simply feed your pet with whatever you please. Some dogs have delicate stomachs. Also, a low-fat/high-fibre diet can cause potentially life-threatening problems. A diet that excludes meat should never be fed to a dog without the advice of a professional pet dietician.
The collagen, elastin and keratin found in meat diets are not easily replaced by veggie equivalents. Your dog will also need the ‘long chain’ omega-3 fats found in animal products such as egg, fish and some meats. Vegan omega-3 fats are not the same as animal-derived ones.
All of which presents a headache for the vegan dog owner. There are, however, products available that claim to let your dog live a healthy, meat-free life. Before you take the plunge, it is essential to seek professional, scientific advice and guidance. Compromise is usually the best choice here – a vegan diet supplemented by some of the animal-derived essentials. Crickets, for example, can provide lots of the amino acids and keratin a vegan diet lacks, and they’re 65% protein.
Can my cat have a vegan diet?
The compromise approach is even more important for cats. These are amongst the planet’s true carnivores, obtaining all their dietary requirements from other animals.
The main challenge with minimizing the meat in a cat’s diet is that, unlike many mammals (including dogs), cats cannot produce certain proteins. They have to absorb these from the meat and fish in their diet. Amino acids are another issue – cats deficient in the animal-derived amino acid taurine, for example, usually succumb to a specific type of heart problem.
Even a fortified vegan cat food cannot be confidently recommended. Turn the situation on its head, and try to imagine weaning a rabbit onto a meat-only diet, and you will get some idea of the challenge – and the ethics – involved.
There are some lab-grown ‘meat’ products in development, with vegan and vegetarian cat owners in mind. However, whether these will arrive – and remain – on the market any time soon is hard to guess.
For many vegan pet owners, there is a huge ethical issue involved in feeding the animals they share a space with. Ethics, however, include the animal’s needs too, and it’s an almost impossible issue to resolve when it comes to cats. If you are able to reduce but not eliminate the meat in your cat’s diet, that’s the safer option.
Top 10 pets for vegan households
There are, of course, plenty of other pets that don’t eat meat, or that eat some meat but can still thrive on a meat-free diet. Here are our ten favorites.
1. Rabbits. No problems here – rabbits are happy vegans, with diets based on hay and vegetables. You could argue that the soft pellets they eject and then eat are animal products of a sort, but they are simply semi-digested vegetation.
2. Guinea pigs. Like rabbits, these wonderful little characters thrive on a 100% vegan diet.
3. Hamsters. Most hamster owners give them store food, you don’t always know what’s in it. However, hamsters, like rats and mice, can do without meat.
4. Gerbils. Like hamsters, gerbils are omnivorous. They have sensitive stomachs and need a quality pellet mixture. Too much fresh produce can harm their digestive system.
5. Mice. Although they will eat pretty much anything in the wild, mice can thrive on vegan diets; but it is still best to use a food mix prepared specifically for them. This ensures that they will not be deficient in any of the vitamins and minerals they need.
6. Rats. These are the most omnivorous of rodents, but as long as you feed them a vegan mix that has been fortified with all the nutrients they need, they will thrive. Be careful, rats who eat too much animal fat tend to become fat and die prematurely.
7. Chickens. If you watch a free-range hen, it soon becomes clear that she will eat anything – grass, beetles, worms, and everything in your vegetable patch if you’re not careful! Most chicken feed emulates this mix of plant and animal products. However, it is possible to buy vegan chicken feed, and circumstantial evidence suggests that hens can thrive on it. However, they are likely to produce fewer eggs, and you will not be able to stop them scratching for worms and bugs, no matter how vegan the layers pellets are!
8. Parakeets and parrots. Vegans will have no obstacles to face with budgies and parrots, unless the birds are being bred. Egg-brooding female birds need a protein boost, normally delivered via an egg-based food or cooked meat. Vegan alternatives are available, though.
9. Finches. Many finch species enjoy bugs and mealworms as treats, but these are not an essential part of an adult finch’s diet. These birds thrive on a mixture of seeds and fresh vegetables.
10. One for reptile fans. When you think of pet snakes and lizards, you probably have an image of dead mice or doomed crickets. However, there are a few commonly kept pet reptiles that eat a 100% vegan diet, the most popular being the Green iguana. Getting the balance of vegetables just right is very important for the animal’s health, but meat is certainly something you won’t have to worry about.
There is no shortage of choice when it comes to vegan pets. Keeping a vegan cat or dog is a much trickier proposition, though. And with all these animals, a balanced diet that matches the pet’s nutritional requirements should be your primary goal.
Welcome to guinea pig parenthood! Whilst your new furr baby will be relatively low-maintenance, as with any type of pet ownership, it’s your responsibility to keep your cavy safe and to ensure they live a happy and fulfilled life. But what exactly do you need to do to make sure that your guinea pig is a grinny pig, and is there anything you definitely should not do?
Guinea pigs bedding dos and don’ts
Do use a guinea pig bedding with good absorbency. This will reduce odors, and create a more hygienic and comfortable environment for your guinea pigs.
Don’t use dusty or sandy bedding. As guinea pigs have delicate lungs, breathing in wood or sand dust can be harmful. In their natural habitat, guinea pigs create their homes from larger pieces of wood and debris. Your pets will enjoy constructing complicated nests using larger bedding materials.
Do choose kiln-dried wood shavings – the drying process removes any toxins and oils from the wood.
Don’t choose color over comfort! If you want to use a multi-colored paper-based bedding, consider mixing it in with a more natural tone that replicates the wood-and-grass colors of the guinea pig’s natural habitat.
Do use an aubiose-based bedding if possible, as this is naturally less dusty, more absorbent and made from a natural, sustainable material.
Guinea pigs food dos and don’ts
Do give your guinea pigs natural treats such as spinach or broccoli, as this is an essential source of vitamin C in their diets! If your cavies refuse to eat leafy greens, it may be necessary to purchase a vitamin C solution that can be added to your pet’s water.
Don’t overfeed your guinea pigs. If they are leaving bits of food in their bowl each day, feed them a little less.
Do regularly clean out your guinea pigs’ food bowl, as their bedding, fur and general mess will quickly soil the bowl. It’s a good idea to clean your pets’ bowls after each feeding with a wipe or spray.
Don’t give your guinea pig any type of meat or fish. This could lead to illness, and if your guinea pig has accidentally eaten meat, take them to the vet immediately.
Do change your guinea pigs’ water every few days, not only once the bowl is empty. This ensures a clean water supply.
Don’t give your guinea pigs too many treats when attempting to train them. The treats will go further in training if your pet sees them as something really special!
Guinea pig toys dos and don’ts
Do regularly change the toys in your guinea pigs’ run. Your guinea pig’s play will remain stimulating if you often swap the toys around. Your guinea pig may let you know if it’s bored of a toy by chewing or even eating it!
Don’t give your guinea pigs your leftover loo roll cards as a treat, as the chemicals used to treat them could be bad for your pets’ health. Instead, invest in a small tunnel system such asZippi tunnels, which not only last longer but are safer too.
Do provide plenty ofchew toys for your guinea pigs. Your pets will naturally nibble and bite any objects in their cage to maintain the length of their teeth. This can be dangerous if all they have to bite on is the metal cage, so having plenty of different things to chew on is essential.
Don’t put your guinea pig into a wheel or ball toy. Although these are great for our smaller furry friends, the guinea pig’s body is not designed to fit into such a small space. Your guinea pigs will be much happier getting their exercise in a large guinea pig run or enclosure.
Do change the layout of any tunnels or playground you have for your guinea pigs. Many of the play sets available are modular and can be changed to keep the experience fresh for your pets.
Guinea pig cohabitation dos and don’ts
Do make sure that your guinea pigs have plenty of space in their enclosure. If you are keeping a small family of guinea pigs, then it’s important that they have enough room to play and establish their own space within the cage or hutch.
Don’t punish your guinea pigs by putting them into isolation. Separating them from the others will only create further problems and is widely thought to be unhealthy and distressing for them.
Do keep your guinea pigs in pairs of sisters or neutered brothers. This will reduce aggression between the animals, as it lessens their mating urges. It is also possible to keep a neutered male with females, but you will need to wait six weeks after the neutering before introducing them, as males can still successfully mate in those early weeks.
Don’t keep just one guinea pig. Your guinea pig will get lonely when left alone for long periods, and such loneliness can actually shorten their lifespan. Your guinea pig will live a longer and happier life with a friend, so it’s a great idea to get a pair if you are considering becoming a guinea pig owner. Did you know that it’s actually illegal to own just one guinea pig in Switzerland?
Following these tips will make keeping guinea pigs simple and incredibly rewarding. By providing them with a stimulating environment and healthy diet and observing these few dos and don’ts, your pets will have long and happy lives.
Guinea pigs are highly social animals that thrive on companionship and stimulation. And since a happy guinea pig is a healthy guinea pig, they need plenty of mental and physical enrichment. Toys, treats, and a playmate are just some of the key elements to enriching piggy-play.
Playtime is best spent with pals! If possible, consider adopting guinea pigs in same-sex pairs or trios. Guinea pigs thrive on social interaction, and do best when they have friends that speak their own language! If more than one guinea pig is not an option for you, be sure to engage yourself in piggy-playtime every day. Take note of what your guinea pig likes to do – are they curious and outgoing, or laid-back and shy? Do rolling balls catch their attention? Or do they prefer to chew rather than chase their toys? Knowing each guinea pig’s personality will help create the most enriching environment possible.
Serve food interestingly
Were you ever told not to play with your food? Well, the same rule does not apply to cavies! Mealtimes are a great opportunity to sneak in play and bonding time. Our Caddi Treat Holder is a fun and unique way of serving up your guinea pig’s meals and treats. Making food challenging to reach means more mental and physical reps before reward, and has the added bonus of keeping treats up off the floor. You can also hide food to encourage natural scavenging behaviors in your guinea pig. Place treats in paper tubes, or a hay rack for rummaging fun! Be sure to surround treats with nutritious hay to ensure meals are eaten before dessert!
Guinea pigs can also be fed by hand, but be sure to only offer treats long enough to keep your fingers out of accidental-biting range! Hold treats loosely between your fingertips and release as soon as your piggy has a hold of it.
Another interesting and engaging way to serve food to your cavies is by threading fruits, veggies, or herbs on a rope or skewer stick fastened with knots or clothespins. Be sure that the twine or rope is thick enough to avoid getting knotted around your piggy, and not so long that they can get themselves entangled. A blunt, metal grilling skewer secured to the side of your guinea pig’s enclosure is both chew and tangle-proof.
Guinea pigs are very food motivated, which makes exercising much easier! To give your piggy some extra steps for the day, tie some of their favorite food or toys to the end of a string and drag it along the floor for them to chase! Keep it just out of reach to encourage them to keep after it. Just be sure to let them catch their prize within a reasonable timeframe!
Changing up the menu from time to time helps alleviate boredom while enhancing your guinea pig’s health. Choose seasonal, piggy-friendly fruits and veggies such as melons, apples (without seeds!), or summer squash to add variety to their diets. Guinea pigs are also excellent lawnmowers, and would love time outside to help with the grass! Place them in a secure guinea pig run to move around each day and you’ll be amazed at how much less you’ll need to mow!
Obstacles, tunnels and tubes
Did you know that wild guinea pigs utilize the burrows and tunnels of other animals? They aren’t known for digging themselves, but they love to spend time in the safety of pre-dug tunnels! As prey animals, they have excellent eyesight – especially toward the sky, scanning for owls and hawks. Guinea pigs thrive in areas with lots of cover supplied by tubes and hideouts. Our Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel SystemandZippi Guinea Pig Play Tunnels allow for hours of play for your piggy and viewing enjoyment for you! Watch your piggy zoom through tunnels (or maybe even take a nap!) and weave their way through a course of your own design. Change the configuration routinely to further challenge your guinea pig. Bonus tip: hide some treats along the way, and you’ll have one happy cavy!
Make use of those shipping boxes! Guinea pigs love a good challenge, so create an obstacle course using a combination of tunnels, tubes, and cardboard boxes. Just be sure to discourage the nibbling of the cardboard obstacles!
Vantage points
While they feel most comfortable in the safety of tubes and tunnels, guinea pigs enjoy a good climb! They’ll routinely scout their surroundings looking for dangers, so giving them an elevated space will help them feel more comfortable. This is another place to get creative! Build platforms from cardboard tubes, boxes, or add our Zippi Guinea Pig Run Platforms to your piggy’s space to add levels of fun.
Toys
Some guinea pigs enjoy carrying or pushing small toys around. Guinea pig toy ideas include: small plastic balls, untreated willow or dried grass weaved-orbs, and small stuffed toys. Specially made guinea pig toys can be found at most pet stores, or choose small balls and stuffed toys from a selection of cat toys. Ensure that any small, glued-on accents are removed to prevent your guinea pig from ingesting something they’re not supposed to! And make sure each piggy has their own toy- they may be sociable, but not every piggy wants to share their favorite toy!
You can also leave toys in their cage for them to entertain themselves while you’re away. Bird toys, or toys made for rabbits and guinea pigs can be hung from the top or sides of your piggy’s cage to provide hours of fun! Be sure to remove any bells from bird toys that are small enough to swallow. Chewing sticks made from applewood are another must-have for cage enrichment. Guinea pigs have teeth that continuously grow, and need to gnaw on wood to keep them trimmed to an appropriate length. Applewood sticks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, most of which are perfect for your cavy to carry around and gnaw on at their leisure!
Shapeable log bridges are another great cage improvement for your guinea pigs. They can be formed into hides to run under, walkways to run across, ramps, dividers…your imagination is the limit! Untreated garden edging works too – just be sure to purchase a material that won’t harm your piggy should they taste it.
Toilet paper or paper towel rolls are great for creating treat-stuffing toys, or cut them down to create pillars for homemade platforms. Wrapping paper tubes are extra-sturdy for cavy construction projects! If your guinea pig is young or on the small side, be sure they can’t get their heads stuck inside any tubes they have access to.
Moving furniture
Guinea pigs need to be kept on their toes for optimal health. Another simple way to create a new and exciting environment for them is to rearrange their furnishings every time you clean their cage or enclosure. Move around their guinea pig shelters, playgrounds and guinea pig viewing platforms, and they’ll set off re-exploring their territory with gusto!
After all of this exhausting play, your guinea pig will probably want to take a well-earned nap. Popular snooze-space options among guinea pigs are fleece hammocks or blankets. These cozy bed options will be a fast favorite with your cavy! Make sure to wash your piggy’s bed of choice in the washing machine or by hand to keep it fresh!
Accessories to avoid
Toys: Watch out for toys with sharp edges, small attached accessories that could pose a choking hazard, or harmful materials such as treated wood. Also be wary of materials such as soft rubber or plastic that pieces can be bitten off of and swallowed.
Exercise balls and wheels:While guinea pigs may look like large hamsters, their anatomy is quite different. Guinea pigs are not comfortable in an exercise ball or wheel, and can seriously injure their backs or feet if placed in one. Ventilation is also important for guinea pigs, and exercise balls in particular do not allow for enough airflow to keep your piggy cool.
Bridges: Guinea pigs are adorable, but not graceful! Make sure all provided bridges either have rails to prevent accidental falls, or are low enough to the ground or level below them to provide a safe place to land.
Leash/harness: A walk may sound nice, but even the most friendly and trusting guinea pigs can panic on the end of a leash. Cavies are “flight” animals by nature, and will harm themselves struggling against a harness or leash if pulled on. A better option would be playing the string-drag game mentioned earlier, or a snuggle session on the couch with their favorite human-friend!
Creating fun games and environments for your guinea pig is rewarding for both of you! Playing with your piggy builds trust, and there’s no faster way to their hearts than through food! By treating them often, playing even more often, and giving them ways to entertain themselves while alone, you’ll ensure they’re living their best life!
You can keep chickens with other pets when the proper preparations and precautions are in place. Some pets like cats and dogs may have an innate prey drive that chickens can trigger, so it’s important to take introductions slowly to ensure success. With these tips, you’ll be able to confidently introduce your current pets to your chickens, or introduce new pets to your existing flock with confidence.
Keeping chickens with dogs
Dogs are the most common pets in the world, with millions kept as pets across the country. So, if you’re among the many dog owners, adding chickens to your family is possible once you consider your dog’s temperament and trainability.
Assessing your dog
If you’re a dog owner, the first thing to consider is their temperament. Different dog breeds may also react differently to birds as part of their nature. For example, breeds like Labrador Retrievers or German Shorthair Pointers may become easily excited around birds due to their natural hunting and retrieving drives. Other breeds that may have increased prey drives include:
Regardless of their breed, if your dog becomes excited or overly curious around small animals, their behavior will likely carry over to chickens. If your dog loses their mind over the birds at your backyard feeder, or drags you to investigate the park ducks on your evening walks, they’ll likely stress out your flock – and themselves.
Dogs without a prey drive or with little interest in birds will likely not pose a problem to your chickens, but all dogs react differently when new pets enter their territory. Usually, most dogs will adjust to the new backyard occupants just fine after an acclimation period. You will likely see your dog expressing interest in your chickens at first – hanging around and sniffing the coop. They may even express a desire to interact with your chickens through playful postures and behaviors. Understanding your dog’s body language around your chickens will help you determine what their relationship will be like.
Chickens are prey animals, and can be hurt easily. Dogs cannot play with chickens as they would with other dogs or even other pets. It’s important to teach your pup that chickens are fragile friends – not toys or something to hunt.
Teaching dogs to get along with chickens
Unless leashed walks make your dog overly excited, their first encounter with your chickens should be done with a dog collar and lead. Make sure their collar is tight enough that they don’t slip out, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable. Walk your dog up to your chickens’ enclosure and let them sniff. Maintain a tight leash until you see your dog’s reaction, and allow the lead more slack slowly to reinforce good behavior.
Let your dog watch you spend time with your chickens. This should be done with your chickens in the safety of a strong walk in chicken run. If your dog does more than sniff or hang around the run, take a step back and approach their interaction from a different angle.
It could take several weeks for your dog to fully accept your chickens. Some other ways to help your dogs adjust to your chickens include:
Setting up chicken fencing around the outside of your flock’s run for your dog to observe them at a distance.
If your dog has a run or playpen, place it next to your chickens’ run and slowly decrease the distance over several days until they are side-by-side.
Reward your dog with their favorite treats each time they are calm around your chickens.
Make sure to never leave your dog unattended with your chickens – especially in the beginning. Even if they can’t get into the run with them, an excited dog’s barking can easily stress your flock out.
Keeping chickens with cats
Cats are more difficult to train than their canine counterparts, and are decidedly less predictable in their behavior. But the good news is that most cats don’t see a large hen as potential prey the same way a dog might. Most cat owners will agree that their cats show little to no interest in their chickens. In fact, cats and chickens have a somewhat symbiotic relationship.
Birds and their feed attract rodents, which a cat would much prefer over your hens. So, when your cat is able to patrol your chickens’ surroundings, chances are good that any potential rodent problem will be nipped in the bud.
Some cats may show increased interest in your hens. This largely depends on your cat’s breed and temperament. Cats will pose a greater threat to chicks rather than grown hens, but by keeping your flock in a strong chicken coop and run, you’ll ensure they stay safe from your cat.
Keeping chickens with guinea pigs
It may be tempting to keep some cute cavies in with your chickens, but in reality it’s not wise. Chickens will likely pick on them, and with their short legs, guinea pigs can’t get away from them quickly. Their dietary requirements are also very different, and your chickens may eat your guinea pigs’ food in favor of their own, which means neither animal will be getting the nutrients they need. If you have cavies and want to house them near your chickens, it’s best for them to have their own guinea pig hutch and run.
Keeping chickens with rabbits
Rabbits on the other hand are fast enough to fend for themselves against chickens, and if raised together from a young age, can do well around chickens. Still, they require their own dietary needs and clean sleeping quarters. They don’t roost like chickens, so they’ll need their own burrowing space in the run or under the coop.
The easiest way to achieve this is by adding walk in chicken run partitions. This will allow you to create “rooms” for each species to ensure they all get what they need. You can open the partition doors to allow everyone to be together whenever you’d like, or create a third space as a common area.
Remember to try to give each species as much space as possible in their respective areas to make them feel safe and comfortable.
Chickens and other pets
Chickens can also mix happily with goats, and with female ducks (males will tends to bully them). Ironically, they do not mix with birds in an aviary. They will eat anything that falls to the aviary floor, but they will also happily peck the other birds whenever they can and may attract rats and mice, which will cause problems for the smaller birds.
If you live in a rural setting, you can keep chickens with other barnyard animals. Chickens mix happily with:
Goats
Sheep
Cows
Alpacas or llamas
Pigs
Female ducks, guinea fowl, peacocks, geese, or pheasants
Any other avian species kept with chickens should be docile and preferably female, as males can bully hens. Smaller birds like quail or pigeons will likely get pecked at by chickens, so it’s best to stick with larger birds as run-mates. Small pets like hamsters, gerbils, turtles, or frogs should never be kept with chickens – they will be pecked at and killed.
Omlet and your pets
Omlet has all of the pet products you need to keep your furry and feathered family members healthy and happy. Having multiple types of pets is exciting, and through our line of chicken coops, chicken runs, and walk in run partitions, you’ll be able to create a safe haven for all of your animals to enjoy. And, by knowing that Omlet products are protecting your flock, you can rest easy knowing that you’ve provided them with the best chicken housing solutions available.
Guinea pigs are popular small pets — great with children, adorable, and relatively easy to care for. But what many new guinea pig owners don’t know is that cavies make a wide range of sounds and movements to communicate with each other. Knowing how to understand the language of guinea pigs will help you determine how your cavies are feeling, and what messages they’re trying to convey to you.
Positive sounds
Positive sounds are your guinea pig expressing that they’re happy or relaxed. Cavies that are housed in safe and comfortable guinea pig hutches will frequently emit these noises in their home, or while being gently handled or played with by their owners.
Chutting: Sometimes referred to as a “clucking” sound similar to those made by a mother hen, this is a sound of guinea pig contentment. Your cavy may make this sound toward you during your interactions, or directed at their hutch-mates while spending time together. You may also hear this sound while your guinea pig tours their environment.
Cooing: This sound is one of affection and acknowledgement. Your guinea pig may coo at you out of recognition, or may coo at their guinea pig friends. Cooing is also common among female guinea pigs and their young.
Purring (low-pitched): Guinea pigs who feel comfortable will make a deep purring sound while being petted or held. This cat-like sound is often accompanied by a calm, relaxed posture from your guinea pig. While not as constant or intense as a cat’s purr, purring in cavies is a sign of ultimate contentment.
Wheeking: This sound is a distinctive and common vocalization made by guinea pigs, most often used to communicate excitement — especially when anticipating a treat or meal. Wheeking sounds like a loud squeal or whistle, and can be long or short and repetitive in a wheek-wheek-wheek pattern.
Negative sounds
Negative sounds from guinea pigs can express many different emotions. From fear to sadness, these noises are most often heard when a guinea pig is experiencing something uncomfortable or painful.
Teeth chattering: This is an aggressive volcalization that expresses anger or agitation. Most often directed at a hutch-mate, teeth chattering noises are usually accompanied by a show of teeth. This motion resembles a yawn, and is an indication that the chattering guinea pig is ready to attack.
Purring (high-pitched): A high-pitched purr is indicative of annoyance or uncertainty. This sound is different from a guinea pig’s contented purr, and sounds like a forceful vibration. A short, high-pitched purr usually means that your guinea pig is fearful of something.
Hissing: Like a cat, your guinea pig may hiss when feeling threatened or provoked. This is another display of aggression that precedes a cavy attacking the source of agitation.
Shrieking or squealing: These high-pitched, piercing noises are cries of alarm. Shrieking or squealing is usually in response to being bitten or bullied by another guinea pig, or in situations of intense fear.
Whining: This moaning type of squeak signals annoyance or dislike for something being done. This could be directed at you or another guinea pig, but isn’t usually a sign of aggression.
Chirping: Chirping is perhaps the least noticed and understood noise that guinea pigs make. This sound is made when cavies are taken away from their family. A chirping guinea pig may also appear to be in a trancelike state.
Positive body language
Positive body language in guinea pigs is used to express joy or pleasure during an activity. These activities may be playing in their guinea pig run, spending time with you, eating, or sleeping. The next time you watch or play with your guinea pig, keep an eye out for these expressions of a cavy living their best lives.
Popcorning: This gesture is one of the most iconic motions that guinea pigs are known for. Popcorning is when a guinea pig hops straight up into the air, sometimes repeatedly, while running. This literal jump for joy is entertaining and adorable for owners to behold.
Licking: If your guinea pig licks you, take it as a compliment. This sign of affection is usually reserved for grooming between two guinea pigs, but it’s not uncommon for cavies to “groom” their owners — or lick the salt from their skin.
Sprawling out: This extended pose is a show of trust and contentedness. Your guinea pig may lay with their front or back legs extended out, or sometimes both. Guinea pigs that stretch out in this way feel safe enough to assume this vulnerable position.
Negative body language
Take note of any negative body language from your guinea pigs. Like their negative vocalizations, these postures can be a warning of aggressive behaviors or injuries in your guinea pigs.
Backing away: If you’re trying to pick up your guinea pig and they back away, it’s a sign that they feel threatened and uncomfortable. As prey animals, their instinct is to flee from potential danger. Always approach your guinea pig slowly and wait to see their reaction before picking them up.
Fidgeting or biting while being held: Sometimes fidgeting while being held can be a sign that your guinea pig needs to relieve themselves. But it can also indicate that your guinea pig is scared, uncomfortable, or stressed. If your guinea pig bites, they’re most definitely scared or stressed.
Freezing: A startled guinea pig will freeze, standing motionless while they assess their surroundings. This nervous reaction is an effort to camouflage their presence and to take a moment to sniff and listen for danger.
Strutting: Moving side to side on stiff legs can be seen as an act of dominance or aggression. This stance is usually accompanied by teeth chattering.
Tossing the head: This behavior is most often seen in guinea pigs while being petted or about to be picked up. It’s a display of displeasure or annoyance, and may be their nicest way of informing you that they are done being doted on.
Standing on rear legs: Standing up on two legs is not a common posture for guinea pigs. It’s a sign that an attack is imminent. If new guinea pigs are being introduced to each other than this posture is observed, it’s important to separate them right away before a fight ensues.
Neutral communication
These sounds and behaviors are just part of life for guinea pigs, and don’t carry any real significance. You can expect to see or hear these actions and noises from healthy guinea pigs.
Mounting: This can be a sexual behavior between a male and female guinea pig, or used to assert dominance among the guinea pig herd — especially between females.
Scent marking: Guinea pigs will rub their chins, cheeks, and hind quarters on things they want to mark as theirs. They may also urinate on things or other guinea pigs to show their dominance.
Sniffing: Sniffing is a way to check out what is going on in the world around them, or when meeting new cavies. Guinea pigs particularly like to sniff each other around the nose, chin, ears, and back side to get acquainted.
Raising heads: This is usually a display of dominance over hutch-mates. Guinea pigs will stick their noses in the air, or lift their chins in an effort to assert their dominance.
Rumbling: A guinea pig rumble is deeper than a purr. This sound is usually heard when a male is courting a female as part of the mating ritual.
Running away when being picked up: Guinea pigs are prey animals, so they can be timid — especially when they’re new to your home. Running away when being picked up is a natural behavior that they’ll eventually overcome when you’re patient with them.
Concerning behaviors
Behaviors that are not part of normal guinea pig language should not be ignored. The following actions or noises warrant a call to the vet:
Wheezing
Excessive whining or squealing
Limping
Increased time spent sleeping or napping
Circling or head tilting
Omlet and your guinea pigs
Learning the language of your guinea pigs will strengthen your bond and give you a deeper understanding of their nature. And when you house them in comfortable guinea pig hutches and guinea pig runs, you’ll be able to witness their most endearing behaviors — but most importantly, you’ll give them the safety and freedom they need to exhibit them. Top off their setup with Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnels for ultimate fun and burrowing, and your cavies will be popcorning and purring for years to come.
Wondering how to teach your guinea pigs and rabbits new tricks? One of the most rewarding experiences you can have with your pets is through teaching them tricks— and it’s a lot easier than you might think. Rabbits and guinea pigs are social animals that benefit from spending time with their owners through learning and playing. Discover how teaching your pets new tricks is a fun way to build their trust and confidence.
How to start training your guinea pigs and rabbits
Training rabbits or guinea pigs is most effective when you can repeat it every day – even if it’s only for five or ten minutes. Not only will your pets appreciate the extra attention, but having a repeated routine will help them remember the tricks you’ve taught them.
To teach your guinea pigs and rabbits tricks, the first thing you’ll need is a quiet space free from distractions. Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens are ideal, giving you a secure and familiar space where you and your pets can focus. You will also need some of your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ favorite treats to encourage them and reinforce their learning.
It can be helpful to separate your pets when training them, but some pets can benefit from learning from each other. For example, if you have an older trained rabbit and a young, untrained one, the young rabbit can learn tricks easier by copying their more experienced friend. And don’t worry about old dogs and new tricks – your pets are never too old to pick up new things.
Rabbit and guinea pig tricks for beginners
When you start to train your guinea pig or rabbit, it’s all about patience and perseverance. Your pet might not seem interested in learning initially, but as you continue to reinforce their learning with treats, you will find them routinely coming back for more. Start with something simple, such as “circling” — a perfect trick for both rabbits and guinea pigs.
Training your rabbit or guinea pig to circle
To teach your pet how to perform a circle, grip a treat tightly between your fingers and hold it close to your pet’s mouth. Then lead your pet around in a circle with the treat, so that it spins in a tight circle. Repeat this until your pet spins around without you leading them, occasionally reinforcing them with the treat. It’s important that you only give them a reinforcement treat when they successfully do the trick. Eventually, the flick of your wrist will be all the encouragement that your pet needs to perform this trick — provided that there’s a treat in store for them after their performance.
Don’t worry if this takes some time to learn – the first trick can be the hardest for your rabbit or guinea pig, but once they have mastered a circle, you’ll both have the confidence to learn even more tricks. If your pet is struggling learning how to circle on command, try encouraging them to turn in the other direction. Like us, our pets are either left or right-footed, so the direction you ask of them needs to be in line with their natural inclination.
How to make rabbits or guinea pigs come when called
Another great first trick is teaching your rabbits or guinea pigs to come when they’re called. Not only is it endearing and impressive, but it’s also practical for your pet to approach you on command.
As with many tricks, the key to teaching your rabbit or guinea pig to come when called is food. Offer a treat when you are close to your pet while saying their name. Eventually, they will come to associate their name with the treat. The next step is to call your pet from farther away, showing them the treat. Repeat their name as they take their reward. After two weeks of this regular exercise of calling and treating, try calling your rabbit or guinea pig’s name without showing them a treat.
Moving on to more advanced tricks
Once you and your guinea pigs or rabbits have mastered a first trick, it’s time to move on to more advanced feats. The more tricks your pet learns, the more confident they will become — and the closer your bond will be.
How to teach rabbits and guinea pigs a figure eight
Challenge yourself and your pets by encouraging them to walk in a figure eight between your legs. As with teaching them to circle, hold a treat in front of your rabbit or guinea pig while encouraging them to follow a figure eight pattern through your legs. Reward them with the treat as soon as the pattern is complete. Some pets may need a treat halfway through their pattern to maintain their focus — but eventually they’ll learn to complete the figure eight before expecting their reward.
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs jump through hoops
To teach your rabbit or guinea pig to jump through a hoop, you’ll need a stick and some treats. Begin this method of stick-training, hold the tip of the stick near your rabbit or guinea pig. When they turn to investigate it, offer them a treat. This will reinforce the idea that the stick is associated with treats.
Once they’re familiar with this routine, hold a hoop close to your rabbit or guinea pig, slightly off the ground. Hold the stick on the opposite side of the hoop, and wait for your pet to hop through to the stick. Offer a treat as soon as they’ve completed the hop. Once your rabbit or guinea pig is hopping through the hoop toward the stick, you can offer the hoop without the stick. Reward them with a treat as soon as they hop through.
You can slowly increase the height of the hoop for rabbits, but keep in mind that guinea pigs will only be able to perform a slight hop. Rabbits can reach impressive heights thanks to their acrobatic prowess, so be sure to offer a challenge to them.
Remember: treats are in moderation
Don’t forget that the treats given to your pets are a part of their diet — and if you’re sticking to your daily training, you may need to incorporate healthier snacks as training-treats to make sure their diet remains balanced. Leafy greens, green beans, carrot tops, or herbs are all great treats that are both healthy and satisfying for your guinea pigs and rabbits.
Omlet and your guinea pigs and rabbits
Help your rabbits and guinea pigs reach their full potential and amaze yourself in the process. With Zippi Tunnels and Zippi Run Platforms, you’ll be able to teach your pets new tricks with ease, and give them the elements they crave in their environment between training sessions. And, with our outdoor rabbit and guinea pig runs, you’ll have the space you need to achieve all of your trick-teaching goals.
Guinea pigs are small animals that are increasingly finding their place in homes. Affectionate, they will make your children happy. However, in order for them to flourish at their best, it is necessary to take care of your pets by meeting their needs perfectly. The health of your pet depends on vitamins and a specific diet.
Follow our advice to ensure that your guinea pig receives an adequate daily intake of vitamins and stays healthy.
Why should I give my guinea pig vitamin C?
Just like humans, guinea pigs do not synthesize vitamin C (also called ascorbic acid). Due to an old genetic mutation, our favorite little pets can no longer make vitamin C from glucose. The intake of vitamin C in their diet becomes a necessity.
Vitamin C is a molecule that slows down the aging of cells, helps prevent the risk of infections and accelerates healing, therefore, vitamin C intake should not be taken lightly since deficiencies can cause serious health problems in your pet.
The signs of vitamin C deficiency are plentiful and here is what should alert you:
Your guinea pig is losing weight, does not want to eat or eats differently
For young guinea pigs, growth inefficiency may be visible
Your guinea pig’s immune system slows down which can cause many infections. There are also problems with the joints and difficulties for moving. It is important that you are alert to any lesions or sores that may have difficulty healing. If your guinea pig squeals when you pick him up, that’s not a good sign.
Should I give my baby guinea pig vitamin C?
The answer is yes. It is recommended that you give your guinea pig the vitamin from an early age so that it does not suffer from deficiencies.
In addition to vitamin C, which we will focus on in the rest of our article, your guinea pig also needs its dose of vitamin E. Much less mentioned than the previous one, vitamin E is also necessary for maintaining the good health of your pet. If your guinea pig is deficient in vitamin E it may be suffering from muscle problems and this may also be the cause of high mortality in female guinea pigs. This vitamin participates in the production of cells, it therefore has an essential role.
A little tip for vitamin E: Between 3 and 5g of vitamin E should be contained in 100g of food.
Foods rich in vitamin E: Fennel, broccoli, tomatoes, spinach, peppers and oatmeal.
What foods naturally contain vitamin C?
Many fruits and vegetables contain vitamin C. These foods are easily found in the supermarket. It’s even better if they come from your small vegetable garden! Always wash vegetables and fruit before feeding them to your guinea pig. It is important to present them to your pet as a treat, he will appreciate it more. Do not hesitate to vary his diet by offering different vegetables according to the seasons.
Key figures: The daily intake of vitamin C in guinea pigs should be 20 mg / lb. of body weight for an adult guinea pig. This dose can rise to 60 mg / lb. of body weight for a growing guinea pig, a pregnant female or a sick guinea pig. If you want personalized advice for your guinea pig, do not hesitate to ask your vet.
Image by Viola ‘ from Pixabay
Foods rich in Vitamin C suitable for guinea pigs in 150 g portions (be aware, it is not a question of giving 150g of the same vegetable but of varying the plate):
Horseradish:contains 141 mg.
Parsley: contains 140 mg.
Kale: contains 120mg. Be careful, this food should be eaten in moderation since it may cause bloating in your animal, just like other types of cabbage (Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, white cabbage, red cabbage, green cabbage, etc.)
Fennel: contains 120 mg.
Red Pepper: contains 126 mg. Red peppers contain more vitamin C than green peppers.
Broccoli: contains 93 mg.
Dandelion: contains 58 mg.
Chicory: contains 24 mg.
Radishes: contains 23 mg.
Tomatoes: contains 19 mg. In addition to providing vitamin C, they are rich in water.
Zucchini: contains 10 mg.
Celery: contains 7 mg.
Cucumbers: contains 5 mg.
This list is not exhaustive, but gives you an overview of foo-
ds rich in vitamin C which you might already have at home! We advise you to vary your intake and ask your vet for more information.
Small dietary reminder: Do not feed guinea pigs rhubarb, onions, leeks, chives, garlic, avocado and lettuce (rich in nitrate) and avoid carrots as they are often too sweet.
We often forget it, but grass is also a source of food for guinea pigs as it is a complete food. You can also supplement the diet with leaves of strawberries, raspberries (beware of thorns), mulberries, willows…
Fruits must also be integrated into their diet, but be careful as they are highly concentrated in sugar and should be given in moderation.
Sometimes, despite a varied and balanced diet, vegetables and other plants are not enough. Guinea pig owners are therefore advised to provide them with vitamin C supplements.
How to give vitamins to my guinea pig? In what form should they be favored?
Vitamin C is available in a variety of forms so you should be able to find something to suit your guinea pig’s preferences. Just like humans, some will prefer capsules while others prefer a liquid form.
Liquid form: Ask your vet for advice on the brand you should choose. The vitamin is injected with a syringe. This method is complex because you have to succeed in getting your guinea pig to ingest the desired dose by placing the syringe in the side of the mouth. Avoid putting it face-on or pushing it into his mouth, he could choke. Do not put vitamin C in liquid form in water. Vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, and could break down very quickly. Protect the bottle from light and recap the bottle quickly after use.
Capsules / tablets: This is an effective way to make sure that your guinea pig is getting its daily amount of vitamin C. There are brands on the market that allow you to get the optimal dose. If your guinea pig has difficulty swallowing the tablet. You can hide it in a banana for example, or in other fruits that your guinea pig enjoys.
Powdered: This form of vitamin C should be taken with caution. The powdered sachet, once opened, must be quickly consumed by the guinea pig or the benefits may be lost. Powder on contact with air will simply lose its effectiveness. The powder has a positive though; you can put it on a piece of cucumber or another treat that your pet loves, the vitamin will then be easily ingested.
Vitamins C and E should be supplied throughout the life of your guinea pig. However, avoid overdosing. Indeed, too much vitamin C can also be dangerous for your animal and cause urinary stones. Check with your veterinarian for the exact dose of vitamin C to give your guinea pig, to help him/her stay in great shape to live life happily and healthy.
When a guinea pig is happy and excited, it will often ‘popcorn’. This describes the sudden jumps performed by guinea pigs, sometimes from a standing position, sometimes in mid-stride, and often involving a change in direction and an endearing squeak! But why do guinea pigs popcorn?
What does it mean when guinea pigs popcorn?
Guinea pigs, being naturally portly, need all the exercise they can get in order to stay trim. It is thought that when guinea pigs popcorn it is part of their natural workout. You can find out more about guinea pigs and their exercise requirements in our How Much Exercise Do My Guinea Pigs Need? blog. It may also be a behavior that causes predators to stop in their tracks, out of sheer surprise, giving the guinea pig an increased chance of escaping unscathed.
Not all guinea pigs entertain their owners with popcorning, but most of them do. The usual reason why guinea pigs popcorn is happiness. They’re simply having a good time, they become excited, and pop! They are literally jumping for joy. Well, most of the time…
Do guinea pigs popcorn when scared?
Popcorning in guinea pigs is certainly not abnormal, although guinea pigs may occasionally popcorn out of fear. You can easily tell when this is the case – was there a sudden noise, for example, or did the guinea pig spot a cat or dog or some other potential danger? If fear is the trigger, the guinea pig will run for cover after landing, and will often make some alarm calls too.
In most cases, however, a guinea pig will ‘freeze’ rather than popcorn if it perceives danger. This is a behavior common to all rodents (and rabbits too). Read more about rabbit behavior in the Learn to Read your Rabbit’s Body Language from Omlet.
Popcorning can be seen in many young mammals (although it is only called popcorning if a guinea pig is involved). Young lambs are a classic example. The behavior is often part of a running and jumping combination, actions known to guinea pig lovers as zoomies.
Encouraging a guinea pig to popcorn
Although guinea pig popcorning can’t be taught to a guinea pig as such, your pet can be encouraged in various ways. Offering a favorite treat often inspires the behavior, and in a keen guinea pig pop-corner, the very sight of the treat might, in time, produce the behavior. At this point, it crosses over into training territory, and if you use a command word (such as ‘popcorn!’) each time a treat is offered, you are in with a chance of making your pet associate the word with the treat. This means, in theory, that simply saying ‘popcorn!’ will cause the guinea pig to jump for joy!
Guinea pigs love exploring new toys, and these will often produce a spell of guinea pig popcorning, too. The excitement often lasts, too, and a new hay station, ball, ramp or section of a guinea pig tunnel will often produce a popcorn jump several weeks after the item was first introduced.
Regular play sessions with your guinea pig will be a source of pleasure for your pet, too. If they feel safe with you in their run, guinea pigs will sometimes popcorn their way into double figures. If you pick them up, and cuddle them, it will often inspire popcorning when the guinea pigs are back on the ground.
If you have a secure space outside the guinea pig cage, this can provide great stimulation for inquisitive guinea pigs. Supervise your furry friends as they nose through the space, and count how many times they perform a popcorn! This should only be allowed outdoors if the space is completely secure and safe for guinea pigs (i.e. no gaps in the fence, no other pets, no toxic plants), and if the outdoor temperature is warm (a minimum of 64 F).
Why do guinea pigs do ‘zoomies’?
It’s a little odd that the guinea pig, a short-legged animal that lacks the ability to climb very well and is usually unable to jump over an obstacle, should be able to perform these vertical take-off maneuvers. Younger guinea pigs tend to jump highest, and more portly specimens will seldom attempt to perform zoomies and popcorns. Younger guinea pigs, in general, will do most of the running and jumping, letting off all the excess energy associated with youth and vigor!
Novice guinea pig keepers have been known to mistake guinea pig popcorning for a seizure. Once you take time to watch your guinea pig you will soon spot the difference, however, as the guinea pig popcorning will become a very familiar sight, and there is no confusing the two. A guinea pig that is having a seizure will fall on its side and wave its legs around, often with jerky motions to the head. The attack will last several seconds too, unlike a swift popcorn. If, after jumping or falling, a guinea pig fails to get back to its feet immediately, it’s time to consult the vet.
Guinea pig popcorning and guinea pig zoomies are two of the things that make guinea pig keeping such great fun. These little furry characters are so full of fun, it’s contagious!
Whilst guinea pigs do a pretty good job entertaining us with popcorning, make sure that they have everything they need to stay amused with Omlet’s range of guinea pig products. From the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System to the Caddi Guinea Pig Treat Holder, your furry friend will absolutely love these awesome accessories!
While guinea pigs do a pretty good job entertaining us with popcorning, make sure that they have everything they need to stay amused with Omlet’s range of guinea pig products. From the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System to the Caddi Guinea Pig Treat Holder, your furry friend will absolutely love these awesome accessories!
Guinea pigs, AKA Cavia porcellus originate from the South American Andes, where they lived amongst the varying terrains of the mountains. Foraging comes naturally to this species as their ancestors spent their days exploring the rocky landscapes and grasslands to find their next source of food. And whilst these pets are not built for marathons, what they do need is a combination of hutch and run along with extra tunnels and accessories to provide them with plenty of exercise space and mental stimulation. Omlet’s guinea pig products have been expertly designed to encourage this instinct, ensuring that today’s household cavies get the exercise they need.
How do guinea pigs exercise?
Whilst small mammals of the rodent families may all look adorable, fluffy and vaguely similar, hamsters and guinea pigs do not have the same needs. Therefore, hamster-style wheels and balls are not required (and can, in fact, be very dangerous for guinea pigs). You can discover more about this topic in our What’s The Difference Between a Hamster and a Guinea Pig? blog. Instead, you should make sure that the floor area of your guinea pigs’ hutch is a minimum of 0.75 square meters for hutches containing two cavies.
The floor area is where they’ll spend much of their time, so the bigger the living quarters, the better. The indoor part of a hutch is only half the story, though, and guinea pigs need some outdoor space, too. It is recommended that they should have at least three hours each day exploring, filled with plenty of exciting exercise, where they can run, skip, and popcorn! This is easy to arrange if you combine a hutch and run, and an all-in-one living space such asThe Eglu Go Hutch for Guinea Pigs is the ideal option.
Guinea pig runs can also be linked to outdoor playpens using an arrangement such as the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System. Whilst guinea pigs no longer have to search amongst the terrains of the Andes for food, this kind of flexible system allows you to construct anything from a simple A to B tunnel, to a full-blown maze with a delicious vegetable hunt, allowing them to practise this behavior. Did you know that a guinea pig’s sense of smell is actually 25x better than humans?! Therefore, a tasty vegetable hunt using your Zippi Tunnel System, Zippi Shelter, and Guinea Pig Tunnels, is the perfect setup for physically and mentally stimulating your cavies!
For a pair of Guinea pigs, a one- to two-metre-square run provides ample space. If you can to give the pets more space than this, they will only really use it fully if it has plenty of tunnels and bolt holes to head for – guinea pigs don’t like to be too far away from somewhere safe and cosy, and will not usually roam in a large garden.
How do you exercise a guinea pig? – encouraging your cavy
Guinea pigs are more inclined to run around and have fun if they have companions to play with. So, rule number one for ensuring that your pets get enough exercise is to provide them with at least one playmate. In the wild, extended family groups could be at least10, but you should always keep the numbers to a level dictated by the size of the hutch and run. You need to get the mix right, as a male and a female will inevitably mate, which has obvious consequences in terms of space and mouths to feed.
Groups of males or groups of females are the best option. A castrated male will mix very happily and placidly with females, and any small disagreement and scuffles among your guinea pigs is unlikely to result in injury and is all part of their exercise routine.
Incorporatinghiding places in your run/hutch/tunnel set up is an important detail. Guinea pigs instinctively have one eye on a safe bolt-hole when they are out and about, and scurrying back to safety is probably their most strenuous form of exercise.
You can encourage your pets to scout around and stretch their legs by putting interesting objects in their run, such as a Caddi Treat Holder, wicker toys stuffed with guinea pig treats, chews, tunnels and simple hideaways in the form of terracotta caves and igloos. They will also play happily with the cardboard tubes from the inside of loo-rolls and paper towels, or a simple cardboard box, especially if these items are stuffed with hay and fresh veggie treats.
One of the things that gives guinea pigs such a unique character is their loveable combination of endless inquisitiveness and nervousness. They follow their noses, explore everything, and then dash back to safety, making those wonderful wheep wheep sounds as they do so. With this mixture of playing and bolting, their exercise needs are easily met – all you need to do is provide the hardware.
Guinea pig exercise is all about exploring and interacting. They are very sociable animals, moving around their enclosure in groups or dashing away on little adventures of their own. You can find everything you need for your fluffy friends on the Omlet Guinea Pig shop and for even more ideas on guinea pig exercise why not take a read of our Guinea Pig Activities blog?
Here’s why the Caddi is the perfect choice for your treat-loving pets…
The Caddi Treat Holder decreases the rate at which your pets will eat their treats. Slower treat release through the gaps in the holder means more satisfaction for longer, and prevents over indulgence.
The Caddi Treat Holder swings around and creates a rewarding, interactive game to keep your pets entertained, which is especially great for rainy days! Your pets will love the stimulating experience of foraging for their treats, and enjoy hours of rewarding fun.
The Caddi allows you to feed your pets treats without having to throw them on the ground. This improves run cleanliness, reduces food waste and prevents pests, as well as being a healthier solution for your pets. Simply hang the Caddi from the roof of your pet’s run with the plastic hook and use the string to adjust the height to suit your pets.
Endless treat opportunities! With the Caddi Treat Holder you can feed a range of fresh greens, fruits and vegetables to your pets, you can use it as a hay rack for rabbits, or fill it with pecker balls for hens. Get creative and reward your pets with exciting new flavours in the Caddi.
You can save 50% on the Caddi Treat Holder until midnight on Monday, just by signing up to the Omlet newsletter. It’s a great deal for you, and an exciting new treat dispenser for your pets! Enter your email address on the Caddi page to claim your discount code.
Now available for just $6.49 if you sign up to the Omlet newsletter! – PROMO NOW ENDED
Terms and conditions This promotion is only valid from 08/12/20 – midnight on 08/17/20. Once you have entered your email address on the website you will receive a unique discount code that can be used at checkout. By entering your email you agree to receive the Omlet Newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any point. This offer is available on single Caddi Treat Holders only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs or bundles with Omlet Peck Toys or Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls. Offer is limited to 2 Caddi Treat Holders per household. Subject to availability. Omlet Inc. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
Guinea pigs have many little ways of showing how much they love you. They may not be as obvious as dogs or cats in this respect, but once you know the signs they’re actually quite easy to read.
Your Guinea Pig Likes Being Held
GPs are timid creatures by nature, so it takes a lot of confidence for them to come to you for stroking or holding. You can interpret that confidence as affection. To reach this stage you need to hand-tame your pet with care and patience. Once they’ve built the trust, they’ll bond with you. They won’t approach everyone in this way – it’s just you they love!
Your Guinea Pig Likes Being Hand-Fed
It will take a little while to reach this stage. Rather than holding a tasty treat in your hand and hoping for the best, it’s best to train the guinea pig in stages. Leave a little trail of treats, and call to your pet gently. Eventually they’ll make it to your hand, and once they’ve become accustomed to this contact, the special bond between pet and owner will be complete.
Your Guinea Pig Follows You Around
By nature, a guinea pig wants to hide from humans, freeze on the spot or run away. It’s a sign of affection when they become so comfortable with you that they happily follow you around. Even if there’s no treat waiting for them, at this stage in the relationship they’ll stay with you simply because they like you and you make them feel safe.
Your Guinea Pig Doesn’t Bite!
This may sound like an odd demonstration of love, but it’s actually a sign that your pet feels very comfortable in your presence. If the GP is in any way afraid or nervous, it will bite if you try to make contact. There are ways of getting round this nervous reaction; and before you know it, the instinct to bite will have been replaced by an urge to nibble your toes…!
Your Guinea Pig Nibbles You, Very Gently
Yes, nibbling is a sign of affection! It’s something these animals do to each other as part of their guinea pig grooming and bonding. Nibbling your shoes or finger ends will come naturally, once they’re comfortable with you. It’s very different from a bite – so don’t simply stick a finger into the cage hoping for a nibble and getting a nasty surprise instead!
Your Guinea Pig Climbs On You
When a guinea pig loves you, you become one of its favourite ‘safe places’. Sit down with your furry friends and they will climb into your lap. Lie down, and they will climb onto you and explore.
Your Guinea Pig Comes To Say Hello
When your guinea pigs first arrive, they will run for cover when you approach their enclosure. Familiarity takes time and patience, and you have to lead the taming process yourself in a hands-on way. Start by holding your guinea pig correctly and comfortably. Continue with a bit of treat-training, and they’ll soon be running to greet you whenever they see you approach.
Your Guinea Pig Responds To Your Voice
Guinea pigs can’t recognise their own names, but they can come to recognise your voice. You should talk, quietly and gently, from the moment you first get them. Always chat to them during hand training and feeding. They will soon come to associate that voice with all that love, and will love you back by coming when you call – no matter what you actually call!
Your Guinea Pig ‘Talks’ To You All The Time
You’ve been talking to them constantly, and they will soon return the compliment. A Guinea pig that chatters to you is very happy indeed in your company.
Your Guinea Pig Just Can’t Stop Playing!
A happy affectionate Guinea pig will dance around your feet, or will perform what is known as ‘popcorning’. This involves jumping in the air, and then running in circles, turning, and repeating the whole wonderful exercise. What better way to demonstrate love than with a good helping of popcorn?
When closely monitored and maintained, rabbits and guinea pigs can live outdoors all year round. But many owners wonder how to keep rabbits and guinea pigs warm in winter. As with any extreme temperatures, you should make adjustments to your pets’ setup to help them through the season, but under most circumstances, bunnies and cavies don’t need to be brought indoors. Find out how to keep your rabbits and guinea pigs warm during the winter, how cold may be too cold, and when to consider bringing them inside for the season.
Can my rabbits and guinea pigs live outside year round?
It’s a widely accepted opinion that domesticated rabbits and guinea pigs can’t or shouldn’t be allowed to live outdoors all year round. In actuality, with the right precautions, rabbits and guinea pigs can thrive outside throughout the year. With few exceptions, rabbits and guinea pigs share the same characteristics as their wild counterparts, and are naturally equipped to handle seasonal changes. It’s true that rabbits have cold weather advantages over guinea pigs, as they have larger bodies, fur on their feet, and more dense coats — but cavies can hold their own in cold weather with some tricks up their metaphorical sleeves.
Rabbits and guinea pigs in the wild
It’s important to remember that rabbits and guinea pigs live in the wild without the convenience of central heating or climate controlled conditions. Their coats and natural insulation help keep them warm in the winter. With the exception of Skinny Pigs, most domesticated rabbits and guinea pigs can thrive even in freezing temperatures — just like their cousins in the wild. The secret to success is to get them as close to their natural habitat as possible.
In nature, rabbits dig extensive burrows called warrens. These underground tunnels provide insulation from the elements and create a cozy space to warm up. They’ll huddle together in groups to create more warmth in their own version of climate-controlled homes. And while guinea pigs don’t dig, wild cavies find abandoned burrows or dens dug by other animals to take up residence in. Using the same methods as bunnies, guinea pigs will huddle together for warmth inside of their repurposed burrows.
With these natural behaviors in mind, owners of domesticated rabbits and guinea pigs can simulate this environment for their pets — and in doing so, will equip their bunnies and cavies with the surroundings they need to be supported all year round. If you’re committed to keeping your rabbits and guinea pigs outside throughout the year, you’ll foster their natural behaviors and help them live long, fulfilled lives. So how do you keep bunnies and cavies warm in the winter? It all starts with their hutch.
Hutches are foundational
When people think of rabbit and guinea pig hutches, they often picture wooden houses or even wire cages. But wire cages are clearly intended for indoor use only, and wooden hutches are drafty and rot when exposed to the elements. With traditional options like these, it’s no wonder that rabbits and guinea pigs don’t thrive living outdoors all year round.
In order for bunnies and cavies to get the support they need to live outside full-time, an insulated, weather-proof home is essential. The Eglu Go Rabbit and Guinea Pig Hutch by Omlet offers warmth, shelter, and safety through the winter, and can easily be modified to accommodate fluctuating temperatures. The draft-free design keeps the winter chill off of your pets, while the strategically placed ventilation points prevent moisture from building up. Insulating rabbit and guinea pig hutch covers add an additional layer of protection against sub-zero temperatures, and keep frost and ice from accumulating on the hutch.
By packing the easy-clean droppings tray with straw or hay, you’ll add further insulation to your rabbit and guinea pig’s home. Aim to bed your pets’ hutch down with at least 4-6 inches of good quality straw or hay to give them enough to nestle down in. Adding a rabbit and guinea pig run cover to the attached run will keep their outdoor space free from snow and ice.
Dietary and environmental considerations
Because keeping warm requires more energy, your rabbits and guinea pigs will need quality nutrition throughout the winter to maintain their increased metabolic needs. Eating and digesting stokes their internal heating mechanisms, so providing food high in fiber and protein that takes longer to chew and digest is an excellent way to help your rabbits and guinea pigs stay warmer. Timothy or orchard grass hay, alfalfa cubes or blocks, and fresh seasonal vegetables like sweet potatoes, carrot tops, and leafy greens are all excellent choices. Grass hay should be offered free-choice, and remember to choose pellet feed for your guinea pigs that is fortified with Vitamin C.
Water bottles may freeze when temperatures drop, but bubble wrap or pipe insulation can be wrapped around them to keep them thawed — just be sure to keep this material out of your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ reach. The ground is also colder during the winter months, so your bunnies and cavies should have a layer of pine pellets, shavings, or straw lining the bottom of their run. This will provide a barrier between their bare feet and the frozen ground.
Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Tunnels are another great way to provide a burrowing experience for your pets, and to get their bodies moving during the cold. These above-ground burrowing pipes simulate tunnels in the wild, and offer an escape from the elements. Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Platforms also get your pets up and moving, and provide a secluded space below for creating cozy cuddle corners.
When it’s time to bring them inside
There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to keeping your rabbits and guinea pigs outside all year long. In general, pets that are kept outdoors leading up to winter should be acclimated to the climate. Their coats will have been preparing for the dip in temperature through molting, and their metabolisms will be steadily ramping up for the colder months.
But, there are circumstances where it may not be safe for your rabbits and guinea pigs to stay outside during the winter. These include:
Rabbits and guinea pigs with certain health conditions, or those that are very young or very old.
When the temperatures drop into the negatives, or when the wind chill creates sustained sub-zero conditions.
If your bunnies or cavies haven’t lived outside leading up to the change in seasons.
If you see your rabbits or guinea pigs displaying signs of hypothermia, it’s important to bring them inside right away. Signs of a rabbit or guinea pig getting too cold include:
Shivering
Pale feet or ears
Lethargy
Once you bring your pets inside, they’ll need to remain in a climate controlled environment until moderate weather makes a reappearance. Bringing your rabbits or guinea pigs inside will start to reset their internal temperatures and metabolisms, making it difficult to reacclimate to the colder conditions outdoors. So, once you make the decision to bring your pets inside, remember that it’s not just a temporary visit — it’s for the season.
Omlet and your rabbits and guinea pigs
Keeping your rabbits and guinea pigs outdoors full-time is a personal preference or in some cases, a necessity for certain pets. But with our insulated rabbit and guinea pig hutches, weather protection, and insulating hutch covers, your bunnies and cavies will be equipped to not only withstand the cold, but thrive during the winter.
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While these two critters do have things in common, their different habitats and ways of life mean that a hamster’s home setup is very different from that of a guinea pig.
The dietary requirements of hamsters and guinea pigs are probably the most significant difference between the two species. Hamsters are omnivorous and will eat pretty much anything they can find. They famously store food in their cheeks for later, making their cute faces puff up, almost doubling the animal’s size.
If you were to meet a species of animal for the first time and had to make an accurate guess about its diet, you would get lots of clues by looking at its teeth. The teeth of a dog, like the teeth of a bear, proclaim loud and clear that this animal is an omnivore – that is, one that eats both meat and vegetables. If you think of your dog as a domesticated wolf, you get a good idea of its natural diet.
1. Rabbits
What is popcorning in guinea pigs?
