The Omlet Blog Archives: April 2019

How to convince your family to let you get chickens

Girl with mother playing with chickens outside the Omlet Eglu Cube chicken coop

Wondering how to convince your family (or roommates) to let you get chickens? You aren’t alone. There are many misconceptions about chickens and their care that cause many people to baulk at the idea of owning them. But, like most reservations, most of these concerns are unfounded. Here is our best advice on how to get others on board with the idea of getting chickens. Bust common myths and put care concerns to rest — and you’ll soon have your entire household clamoring to keep chickens.

6 myths about keeping chickens 

Debunking some common myths about keeping a backyard flock will be your first step in convincing your family to let you get chickens. While this is not an exhaustive list, these are the main concerns raised when families consider keeping chickens. 

Myth #1: Chickens smell bad 

While it’s true that hens’ droppings smell, hens themselves have no odor.  If their coops are kept clean there will be virtually no stench from your chickens’ setup. Our easy-to-clean chicken coops ensure that your hens’ home stays fresh and clean from just minutes of cleaning each day. 

Your hens will keep themselves clean by preening their feathers and taking chicken dust baths. Choose odor-absorbing material like pine pellets, sand, or finely crushed rock for the base of your chickens’ run to eliminate any outdoor odors. Finally, use a pressure washer or soap and water on the interior surfaces of your chicken coop once a week, and you should experience little to no odor from your backyard flock. 

Myth #2: Chickens take up a lot of space

Depending on the breeds of chickens you keep, most of them don’t require much space. Of course, your flock will be happiest with the most space possible, but there are options that will make the best use of the space available. Mobile chicken coops allow you to move your hens’ home to the most convenient spot, or relocate them whenever you need to. Your backyard flock can help you mow your grass, control the bug population, or enjoy shady areas through the use of a mobile chicken coop. 

Don’t want your flock to have access to the entire backyard? Chicken fencing or a walk in chicken run enables you to customize your flock’s area within the space available in your yard. 

Myth #3: Chickens are noisy 

Most of the time, when people think of noisy chickens they conjure up the image of a crowing rooster. While roosters are in fact quite loud, hens make quiet noises that are not likely to disrupt the neighborhood. Occasionally, hens may make louder sounds, but these are usually reserved as warning cries. When they “sound the alarm”, it’s usually because of a perceived threat. 

Some breeds are more vocal than others, so if noise is a concern, it’s best to do some research beforehand. Faverolles, Polish, and Wyandottes are among some of the more boisterous breeds that you may want to avoid if noise is of concern. There are also some hens that will loudly proclaim that they have laid an egg. The ruckus is short-lived, but they will often get the entire flock going for a few minutes in a celebratory cheer. This behavior is most common in young hens that are just beginning to lay. 

Myth #4: Chickens will fall prey to predators 

Chicken predators are a real threat, but the reality is that if you keep your flock in a predator-resistant setup, you can greatly mitigate the risk they pose. Heavy-duty wire weld chicken runs with anti-dig skirting and raccoon-resistant chicken coops will help protect your flock from the most common predators that would make a meal of your hens.    

If you have dogs or cats that patrol your yard, your risks of dealing with chicken predators are greatly reduced. And, for those that would strike your chickens’ coop after dark, an automatic chicken coop door can be added to your hens’ house to help keep them safe from nocturnal intruders.  

Myth #5: Chickens will prevent me from traveling 

Chickens are surprisingly self-sufficient, especially compared to other types of pets. Their main needs are: 

  • Safe housing 
  • A secure run 
  • Free-choice feed
  • Fresh water 
  • An established roost-to-rise routine 

Assuming these are met, you can safely leave your flock overnight. If you’re going to be gone longer than a day or two, it’s a good idea to get a chicken sitter. This is especially true if weather conditions are below freezing or uncomfortably hot to make sure your flock’s water remains palatable. 

Daily chicken care doesn’t take all that long, and usually, chicken sitters are happy to be compensated in eggs for their time. A neighbor or local friend or family member are great resources when looking for someone to check in on your flock while you’re away.  

Myth #6: Chickens need a rooster in order to lay eggs 

This is one of the most common misconceptions that exist about chickens. But to put this notion to bed: hens do not need a rooster in order to lay eggs. Most hens ovulate every 24-36 hours, which means they can produce one egg roughly every day and a half — with or without a rooster. 

Roosters are only necessary if you’d like fertilized eggs to incubate or sell. Most areas restrict ownership of roosters due to their crowing, so be sure to consult your city or HOA for laws regarding keeping chickens

Winning your family over 

Next, it’s time to present all of the ways in which chickens benefit their owners. Many hens are social and bond with their owners — some even capable of learning tricks. But personalities aside, there are several other reasons to own chickens. 

Fresh eggs 

Probably the most obvious reason for keeping chickens is the prospect of providing fresh eggs for your family. The difference between store-bought eggs and fresh eggs is startling. Many families need only to see the difference between the two eggs to be fully convinced of the higher nutritional value of fresh eggs. 

To show your family the difference between the two, simply crack a fresh egg into a bowl next to a store-bought egg. Eggs bought in a store are lighter and thinner in appearance, while fresh eggs have a deep, rich color to their yolks and a thicker consistency. 

Help in the garden 

Chickens can make for great helpers in the garden. They provide natural fertilizer through their droppings, and through the use of chicken tractors, your flock can till up your soil and control pests like slugs, ants, beetles, spiders, and even scorpions.  

Strategically placed chicken fencing or chicken runs can allow your chickens to prune overgrowth and provide weed control in your yard. And, mobile chicken coops let your flock graze different sections of your yard to help with mowing.   

Chickens as family pets with Omlet

Like other pets, chickens require time and responsibility, and it’s right that families take owning them into careful consideration. But with quality chicken-keeping products from Omlet, you’ll be able to start out strong and enjoy keeping chickens for years to come. Our chicken coops, chicken toys, and chicken runs are all designed to last a lifetime and bring joy to both flocks and their families. 

A girl taking a freshly laid egg from the Omlet Eglu Cube

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This entry was posted in Chickens on April 24th, 2019 by sammorley


8 Quotes Every Chicken Keeper Can Relate To

1. ”I’m thinking of selling the TV, I just watch the chickens anyway.”

2. “I’m feeling a bit low today, so I’m just going to hang out with the chickens for a bit.”

3. “Yes, we had a lovely holiday. But I spent most of it worrying about my chickens.”

4. “Sorry I’m late, I just had to check on my chickens before I left.”

5. “I tried to have a lie in this morning, but my chickens were hungry.”

6. “A day when I don’t get to hug a chicken is not a day worth living.”

7. Colleagues: So, have you got any exciting plans for the weekend?
Me: Chickens.

8. Me then: 3 sounds like a good number of chickens.
Me now: ????????????

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This entry was posted in Chickens on April 17th, 2019 by sammorley


How to give your rabbits and guinea pigs more space with Zippi

Guinea pigs in Omlet Zippi Run running down Omlet Platforms for guinea pigs

Small animals like rabbits and guinea pigs need to run. If provided enough room, your bunny will “boing” across the grass, and your guinea pigs will “popcorn” their way across their play space. But if you haven’t noticed these behaviors from your small pet, it may be time to add more space for them to exhibit these natural expressions of joy. 

In addition to the joy that exercise brings your rabbit or guinea pig, it’s also vital for their health. Rabbits crave running, and guinea pigs need to move their little legs throughout the day to avoid becoming dangerously overweight. An under-exercised rabbit can easily become bored and depressed, and overweight guinea pigs experience joint pain and metabolic issues. 

How much space should my rabbit or guinea pig have? 

Realistically, you may not be able to take your rabbit for a run every day, or make sure your guinea pigs are getting their steps in. To ensure they’re getting enough exercise, try to offer as much space as possible. But unlike a pet dog, rabbits and guinea pigs can’t simply be turned out into your backyard to stretch their legs. 

A high-quality hutch for rabbits and guinea pigs with an attached run is one of the best and easiest ways to help your small pet get their steps in throughout the day. Our attached runs can be extended to up to 12 feet long, giving your bunny room to boing and your guinea pig plenty of room to popcorn. And, with our heavy-duty mesh roof, sides, and flooring to help prevent bunnies from burrowing out, your small pet can enjoy their time outside safely. 

How can I add more space for my rabbit or guinea pig? 

Ready for even more space, or need a space away from your rabbit or guinea pig’s hutch? We’ve invented Zippi Runs and Playpens for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs to be the ultimate space for your bunnies and cavies. The same heavy-duty wire that is used for our attached runs make our Zippi Run and Playpens a safe, secure, and resilient place for your small pets to experience their world. 

Choose from a variety of options to fit both your pet and space. For rabbits, our double-height playpens and runs are the perfect height to keep boisterous bunnies contained, and optional underfloor mesh keeps burrowing to a minimum. Cavies can safely enjoy our single-height runs and playpens, with or without underfloor mesh. Both our single and double heights have the option to add roof panels and anti-dig skirting for even more security. 

Double the fun that our double-height runs have to offer when you add Zippi Platforms for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs. Utilize aerial space in their run, and give your pet a platform to perform tricks, meet for mealtime, or see you at eye level. Bunnies and cavies alike will feel the benefits of “taking the stairs” when they use the non-slip ramps to access our Zippi platforms. After all that exercising, the space below the Zippi platform offers a shady spot to take a post-workout nap. 

Children outside with their rabbit in Omlet Zippi Tunnel System

Connect their spaces with a tunneling system 

We didn’t just stop at playpens and runs – we also invented the ultimate tunneling system for both rabbits and guinea pigs to fulfill their natural desires to burrow. Our one-of-a-kind Zippi Tunnel System for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs can act as a standalone track set up for playtime, or connected to any run or hutch. Design routes for your rabbit or guinea pigs to go from their hutch to playpen or run and watch them enjoy being in their element. 

Our Zippi tunnels are made of durable materials that are meant to last, and can be customized with our intuitive Zippi Tunnel Builder. Create twists, turns, look-out hay feeders, intersections and more when you design your own course. And keep your rabbit or guinea pig on their toes by adding onto or reconfiguring the Zippi Tunnel System at any time. 

Other enriching activities for rabbits and guinea pigs 

Zippi Runs and Playpens also give you an opportunity to add even more engaging activities to your pets’ space. Create a treat-filled maze for your cavy out of repurposed cardboard boxes, or make a digging box for your rabbit with a litter pan or cardboard box filled with treats and shredded paper. Add bunny or cavy shelters and play tunnels to your pets’ home to incorporate even more fun into their enclosure. 

Along with exercise, diet is important to keep your rabbit or guinea pig in optimum health. Offering treats occasionally is fine, but the bulk of their diet should be timothy hay-based pellets and free-choice timothy hay. You can also offer fresh greens in our Caddi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Treat Holder to attach to their run. This elevated treat dispenser reduces waste and encourages your pets to stretch their bodies and mind to reach their treats. 

Omlet and your small pets 

Omlet’s goal is always to bring people and pets closer. Our entire line of Zippi products are designed to foster natural behaviors in rabbits and guinea pigs, while bringing enjoyment and wonder to their owners. Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Platforms, the Zippi Rabbit and Guinea Pig Tunnel System and Zippi Outdoor Rabbit and Guinea Pig Runs are all creative accessories that let you and your pets experience their world like never before. You’ll be amazed by how happy and at ease rabbits and guinea pigs are when they’re in an environment that they truly enjoy. 

Girl in Omlet Outdoor Run holding guinea pig

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This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs on April 12th, 2019 by sammorley


Step by Step to Hatching Chicks

Two fluffy chicks facing each other
As long as your chickens are laying, you can hatch and incubate chicks all year round. However, traditionally the most popular time to breed your own chickens is in the spring.
Hatching and rearing your own chicks from eggs is an incredibly exciting and rewarding process. There is nothing better than seeing your tiny chicks grow up in the knowledge that they are getting the best possible life from start to finish.The incubation period for chicken eggs is usually 21 days. The most reliable way to incubate your fertilised eggs and maximise the chance that they will hatch into healthy chicks is to use an artificial incubator. Here’s our step-by-step guide to hatching chicks:

1. Long Term Plan

Before the hatching starts, you will need to have a plan in place as to what you are going to do with the chickens once they hatch. It is a safe estimate that 25-50% of eggs will not hatch due to either not being fertilized or due to some mishaps during incubation. Among those which will hatch, approximately 50% will be cockerels and 50% will be hens. Everybody wants hens and hardly anyone needs cockerels, so there is a question of what to do with the latter. In many breeds, cockerels do not tolerate each other and they will fight vigorously unless they are completely separated.

2. Eggs

First of all, you need to be as sure as it is reasonably possible that the eggs are fertilized, so getting them from a good breeder / farmer is crucial. Eggs of some breeds are quite expensive, so every egg that will not hatch costs you money. A breeder can never give you a 100% guarantee that the egg is fertilized, but an experienced one can be quite confident they are.

The eggs should not have any deformations or bear any other visible defects. Any cracks in the eggshells are a no-go. Any defect of the eggshell might result in the chick having difficulty in hatching, being deformed, or not developing at all.

Once you have the eggs, it is a good practice to wash them with an egg disinfectant. Eggs are porous and the embryos get oxygen and water through their eggshells. If there are any toxins or bacteria on the eggshells, that might endanger the embryos.

3. Keep a Diary

Hatching chicks diary
It is a really good idea to keep a diary of hatching. This includes numbering the eggs and keeping a daily record of each eggs weight. A developing egg will gradually lose weight in its 21 days of incubation. It will lose about 10-15% of its original weight over time. When the egg in the incubator is not losing weight it usually means it is not developing.

4. Incubator

Turning

Choose your incubator carefully. Some incubators, such as the Brinsea Mini II Incubator have an Auto-turn mechanism built-in. Auto-turn saves you a lot of time and effort. Every egg during the incubation time needs to be turned every 90 minutes in order for the embryo to be positioned perfectly in the egg. A broody hen naturally turns all the eggs she is sitting on as she moves around the nest, so the turning simulates what naturally happens when a hen takes care after eggs. If the incubator does not have the Auto-turn option, you will need to turn the eggs manually. It is therefore a good practice to mark all eggs with a non-toxic marker just to be sure that every egg is being turned every time you visit them.

Brinsea Mini ll Eco Starter Pack egg incubating equipment Temperature control

A good incubator will be able to keep a steady temperature within. One that we recommend is the Brinsea Mini II Incubator. The optimal temperature for hatching chicks is 37.5 degrees Celsius. A good incubator will set its alarm off if the temperature within drops below or rises above a certain threshold. Temperature in the room where the incubator is placed is crucial here, as it heavily influences the temperature in the incubator. You will be opening the incubator during routine controls of the eggs, so it is really important the eggs don’t get a temperature shock in the process – such a shock might kill the fetuses. We advise keeping a steady temperature of approx. 25 degrees Celsius in the room with the incubator. The room should also be draft free.

Humidity control

A good incubator will be able to provide a good humidity inside. Optimal humidity for the eggs during hatching is around 40-50% but needs to be increased on Day 19 in order to soften the eggshells and help the chicks to hatch out. With some Incubators such as the Brinsea II Mini Incubator, there are two water containers inside. Fill one up every day, and fill both of them from Day 19 onward. You can fill up the water container in the Brinsea without the need to open it which is very useful, since you generally don’t want to open the incubator too often. It is perfectly normal that some condensation starts to build up in the incubator after a few days due to high humidity.

5. Daily routine

Cooling

Day 7 is an important threshold. First of all, you need to start cooling the eggs for half an hour a day. It’s best to do this around the same time each day. A good incubator has a fan and you can set an automatic cooling time. If not, you need to cool the eggs down manually by taking them out of the incubator. The cooling temperature should not be shockingly different – a difference of 2 to 5 degrees Celsius will do.

Developing eggs keep their own temperature when exposed. That is how a hen tells the difference between a developing and a dead egg. When the hen gets off the nest to eat and drink, the dead eggs will go cold almost instantaneously. The hen will then get rid of the dead eggs from the nest.

Starter Pack egg incubating equipment Candling

You also need to start candling the eggs on Day 7 at the latest. Candling will show you which eggs are developing and which are not. If an egg does not show any signs of development on Day 7, it will not hatch. It is essential to take out any eggs which stop developing as they will start to decompose if left in the incubator. From Day 7 onward you should continue candling on a regular basis. It’s not necessary to do it every day, as you won’t see any significant progress on day-to-day basis, but it is a good practice to do it every third or fourth day. Weighing and candling combined are usually good indicators if the egg is developing or not.

From Day 7 up to Day 19 tasks should continue in a routine manner: daily cooling, weighing, and occasional candling.

6. Hatching

Day 19 marks the next important stage. You need to stop turning the eggs and cooling them, and lay out a hatching mat in the incubator (so the chicks won’t slip on the incubator’s surface on their first day of life). You also need to increase the humidity inside up to at least 65%. When using the Brinsea Mini II Incubator you can achieve this by filling up the second water container inside.

At some point during that period the eggs will start wiggling: the chicks will be moving around the egg to position themselves perfectly to hatch out. You might feel the temptation to check on the eggs often, but at this time it is best to leave them be and inspect the eggs every 6 hours or so.

Hatching chicks with the Brinsea Mini ll Eco

Around Day 20 the chicks should peck out a small hole in their eggshells to catch their first breath of fresh air. It’s best to leave them be. Do not help them by making the hole bigger or breaking the shell apart. They will do it themselves in their own time. In that time they will also consume all the nutrients in their eggshells, so it is vital for them to stay inside for the time being.

Most of the chicken breeds hatch on Day 21 with only a handful of breeds hatching on Day 20 or 22. Do not help the chicks in hatching, they should be able to do it themselves – it’s their first test of strength. Only give a helping hand when a chick is really late (in comparison with its companions in the incubator) and/or the eggshell is really thick and the chick is evidently struggling to get out for a prolonged period of time.

Once the chicks hatch out, leave them in the incubator for another 24 hours. They should be well fed having eaten all the nutrients from their eggs. Apart from that, the incubator provides them with the optimal temperature and humidity.

Now watch our eggcellent egg hatching video to see how easy it is to hatch chicks!

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This entry was posted in Chickens on April 10th, 2019 by sammorley


Carrot Cake Recipe

 INGREDIENTS

Omlet super yummy carrot cake recipe

Carrot Cake:

  • 6oz dark brown sugar
  • 6oz caster sugar
  • 5oz softened butter (unsalted)
  • 3.5oz natural yoghurt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons mixed spice
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 3 medium-sized eggs
  • 10oz shredded carrots
  • Small wedge of fresh ginger
  • 6oz self-raising flour (sifted)
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda

For the Icing:

  • 2oz icing sugar
  • 7oz cream cheese
  • 1 lime
  • 3.5oz walnuts

METHOD

1) Heat oven to 340 degrees Fahrenheit. Line bottom and sides of two 8 inch round springform pans with parchment paper, then lightly spray pan with cooking spray. Whisk butter (room temperature), yoghurt, caster and dark brown sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, mixed spice and salt. Add the eggs one at a time. Stir in the graded carrots and ginger. Use a spatula to fold in the sifted flour and baking soda.

2) Pour the mixture into the springform pans and bake for 55 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. If any wet mixture clings to the skewer, return to the oven for 5 mins and check again. Leave to cool in the tins for two hours.

3) To make the icing, beat the cream cheese, icing sugar and lime juice and zest together. Remove the cakes from the tins and sandwich together with half the icing. Top with the remaining icing and walnuts.

Freshly baked carrot cake will keep well for about 1 week in the fridge when properly stored.
Best eaten at room temperature.

 

Omlet super yummy carrot cake recipe, slice of cake

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This entry was posted in Recipes on April 10th, 2019 by sammorley


8 Signs Your Cat Owns You

Any cat owner…sorry, we mean servant… will know these struggles all too well. If you think of a crazy cat lady while reading these, make sure you name and shame them on social media using #OmletPets.

 

After swearing you would never let your cat on the bed, your cat now spends more time in your bed than you do, including under the covers.

You also frequently wake up with your cat lying on you, your pillow, right by your face, across your feet etc.

Your cat demands to have breakfast and dinner brought to them. And you give in. Every. Single. Time.

Sternly telling your cat “no” results in your pointed finger being swiped by sharp claws, even if they were in the wrong. Cats are never in the wrong.

You have bought multiple toys which your cat has never touched…
“But the toilet roll is so much fun! Ooo – look a hair band! Packaging? MY FAVOURITE!”

Who needs an alarm clock? You have a hangry cat!
“What do you mean 5am isn’t breakfast time? Get up!”

“If I want to play in the sink – I will play in the sink – don’t even THINK about moving me.”

You still can’t help but love your cat no matter what they do! They do own you after all!

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This entry was posted in Cats on April 9th, 2019 by sammorley